Due to the recent and unexpected flooding that has swept across much of Northern England, many would-be horticulturalists have suffered the huge and unwelcome destruction of many of their less established plants. In preparation for future deluges we’ve compiled a list of plants that not only tolerate wet conditions, but thrive in them.

Amelanchier lamarckii ‘Ballerina’

This deciduous tree will produce ovate foliage that will go through a transition from bronze in springtime to green to orange and then red as the seasons progress. The spring months will also yield white flowers, to be followed by shiny black autumn fruits.

Paulownia tormentosa

The ‘Foxglove Tree’ is a large, rounded tree with bold, heart-shaped foliage and striking purple flowers which are formed before the leaves emerge, which themselves will appear in varying shades of green throughout the year.

Taxodium distichum

The ‘Swamp Cypress’ is a tall species of conical tree with red-brown bark and feathery green foliage that will fade to yellow-brown in the autumn. It will also produce tan-coloured fruits in the autumn.

Cornus alba ‘Ivory Halo’

The ‘Ivory Halo’ is a compact, deciduous shrub with variegated foliage, whose colouring will encompass both dark green, mid-green and rims of pale ivory, hence its name. It will also bear yellow or white flowers in the springtime.

Salix purpurea

The ‘Purple Willow’ is a large shrub with a creeping growth pattern. Its name is derived from the grey-blue and lilac foliage it produces, as well as the bright purple stems that support it. It will produce silver flowers in the springtime preceded by a throng of tiny catkins.

Viburnum opulus ‘Park Harvest’

This shrub is a large and bushy, deciduous cultivar which will produce red, fading to yellow foliage from spring to autumn, at which time it also produce matching red fruits. Spring time will also see the bloom of white flowers at the stems tips.

Astilbe ‘Beauty of Ernst’

It’s not hard to find the inspiration behind this plants moniker, producing delicate sprigs of pale lilac on bright green, toothed leaves and minute stems. It is dainty and durable, and excellent for filling small spaces with colour.

Iris ensata ‘Japanese Water Iris’

This Iris is an erect perennial that will produce triple-petal, bright purple flowers and grassy foliage. However, although beautiful, do bear in mind that this plant is highly toxic and may not be suitable for a family garden.

Zantedeschia ‘Schwarzwalder’

These are a particularly dramatic species of Lily, sporting large trumpet-shaped blooms in a pearlescent shade of red, purple and black and these are off set by broad, green leaves. It will also produce orange fruits in autumn.

There you have it, a nicely varied list of flood-proof plants that can not only endure a deluge, but welcome it - just make sure you keep those soils moist until the flood does come!

By Josh Ellison

Winter has a reputation for being quite a monochromatic season. With the increasing absence of consistent sunlight the chlorophyll responsible for the colours in our foliage begin to diminish and very few of the flowering plants can survive the onset of harsh weather. In spite of this it is possible to create an interesting and colourful display to welcome visitors to your home in this festive season.

The best and simplest method would be to arrange a number of containers in your porch or by your front door and tailor their plant schemes as if one were customising a bouquet. We’ve included three examples of potential combinations below.

Skimmia 'Rubella' 

Cyclamen cuom 

Galanthus nivalis

While the Skimmia will provide structure and depth to this group with its broad, evergreen foliage, the Galanthus, or Snowdrop, will provide a fresh snowy contrast to its red flower buds. The Cyclamen bulb will provide an upright conical flower in your choice of purple, pink, red or white, together with interesting marbled foliage.

Erica carnea 'Vivelli'                

Gaultheria mucronata 'White Pearl' 

Iris Reticulata 'George'             

 

The Vivelli variety of heather can provide excellent soil cover for larger pots as its long-lasting flowers are famous for both the density and abundance of their growth. The Gaultheria will off-set its bright pink blooms wonderfully, whilst adding a touch of winter white to an otherwise warm palette, made all the more so by addition of the Irises which will lend a deep shade of purple to the mix.

Cordyline 'Torbay Red'  

Hedera helix 'Glacier' 

Narcissus 'Tete a Tete'

With the addition of the tropical-looking Cordyline - which would look more at home on a beach than six feet from a snow bank - this would seem a fairly exotic combination. However, despite the glorious, deep red foliage of this Cordyline, it is fairly hardy if placed in the shelter of the porch and it contrasts beautifully with the variegated Hedera helix and the vibrant yellow Narcissus.

By Josh Ellison

There has been a recent announcement by the Forestry Commission, to whom it has become apparent that, despite its designation as one of the strangest years of weather on record, 2012 had also produced one of the most varied colour schemes in our autumn foliage.

In the wake of the miserable summer we’ve suffered it would seem implausible that our autumn palette could adopt such vibrancy - after all, hot and dry summer months have become synonymous in horticultural circles with colourful autumns. However the colouration of foliage, particularly in the transition to winter, is not an exact science and the Commission has a theory as to what might have caused this welcome surprise.

To understand the underlying causes of autumn vigour, it is necessary to look at the science behind it, which is actually a lot simpler than you might think. Sunlight encourages the production of chlorophyll in the cells of plants and more specifically their foliage - giving the distinctive green tint that we associate with them. Therefore, in the lead up to winter, as the days shorten and sunny weather becomes more sparse, less and less chlorophyll is being produced, thus allowing the true yellow colour of the leaves to show through.

However, it is precisely this decline that triggers the most vivid displays. In the absence of chlorophyll, certain sugars and particularly one called Anthocyanin, are able to flourish and it is this that tints the leaves a distinctive autumn red or purple. It is believed that the brief spate of sunlight we enjoyed in September leant a final boost of encouragement to our native woodlands and that the early frost that succeeded it helped to lock in those colours as they were established.

Several native and imported species are famed for their autumn plumage and among these are the 

Japanese Maple, Acer palmatum ‘Osakazuki’, 

Disanthus cercidifolius, 

a medium-sized shrub for acid soils,

Enkianthus campanulatus, 

another acid-loving shrub with a long flowering display in spring

Nandina domestica, 

which, unusually for autumn colour shrubs, is actually evergreen, 

Parrotia persica, 

which can be grown as a tree or large shrub and is tolerant of most soils, 

Katsura, or Cercidiphyllum japonicum,

a lovely Japanese variety, known more commonly as the Candy Floss Tree, a name derived from the sweet smell it releases as the aforementioned sugars are broken down, and thus certainly worth consideration for your winter garden.

By Josh Ellison

Since its inception, the London Wetlands Centre, situated close to the centre of town, in Barnes, has played host to a variety of different horticultural and environmental disciplines. 

Over the years it has developed a tremendous reputation for ecological investment, alongside providing homes for various forms of wildlife. 

However, the word currently on the LWC’s lips is Sustainability, as demonstrated by the recent completion of the Royal Bank of Canada’s Rain Garden which has been constructed at the site. 

The garden also shares more than mere location with the city of London - its designer was Professor Nigel Dunnett, who was also responsible for the wildflower meadows that festooned the Olympic Park so beautifully.

The garden itself was opened in 2010 in celebration of the Centre’s tenth year in progress and Professor Dunnett’s design focuses on the importance, as well as the variety, of methods in the field of water conservation, with the hope of inspiring visitors to integrate such a system into their own garden. 

Dunnett’s choice of irrigation is really quite ingenious - a central pavilion accumulates rainwater run off which is then distributed downward into the beds of the garden using gravity as an engine. The beds themselves create a sort of domino effect wherein any excess water, in the case of heavy flooding, immediately defers to the next circular bed. However, it is not only the architecture of this garden which affords it such aquatic frugality, the plants themselves are specialists in not only conserving water, but surviving without it as well - using species such as Caltha palustris and Lythrum salicaria which, while being highly absorbent, are also extremely hardy to drought conditions.

There is also a pump system that drives water from the onsite stream that carves through the garden upward into the beds - effectively making the participant the connector of this liquid.

Developments Manager for the Wildfowl and Wetlands Trust, Simon Rose, gave ample praise to the philosophy behind the project as well the range of people it might appeal to:

‘From day one, the garden has been full of children and adults enjoying the interaction with water and nature, they all come away knowing what rain gardens are all about. That’s exactly what we wanted.’

By Josh Ellison

Cornus, or ‘Dogwood’ as it’s commonly known, is shrub that is famed for its many varieties’ brightly coloured bracts, leaves and bark and more specifically for their very useful property of showing these colours in the autumn and winter months, when they really come into their own to cheer the garden.

However, many Cornus can also make for incredibly showy flowers as well, so while we’ve compiled a list of bark and autumn leaf colour specialists, don’t forget their flowering abilities too.

Winter Bark:

Cornus alba ‘Sibirica’

This is a medium-sized deciduous shrub, which carries vivid red canes throughout the winter. It also has soft green foliage and white flowers in the spring and summer followed by pale blue berries. It’s incredibly hardy and equally satisfied in sheltered or exposed conditions provided the soil is neutral to acidic.

Cornus sericea ‘Flaviramea’

This one has bright yellow stems and complements the above very well.

Cornus sanguinea ‘Midwinter Fire’

Bright orange stems this time and green foliage that will turn to deep red in the autumn.

Cornus alba ‘Kesselringii’

This has pure-black stems and green foliage, with the stems turning deep burgundy-red in winter.

All of these need to be cut down to within a few centimetres of the ground in March to encourage the bright new growth that makes them so special. Plant them in combination for stunningly colourful effects.

Autumn Colouring:

Cornus mas

The ‘Cornelian Cherry’ is a deciduous shrub with a vigorous and spreading growth habit, whose stems will bear yellow flowers in the winter months. Its autumn foliage is special however, with the bright red leaves forming an impressive foil for the edible fruits. It will tolerate the vast majority of soil types and ph levels.

Cornus kousa chinensis

This deciduous shrub or small tree will produce green foliage that will turn brilliant shades of orange as the weather turns colder. They will also bear cream coloured flowers throughout the summer and pink fruit in the autumn making their colour scheme highly diverse.

Cornus florida rubra

This deciduous tree will produce beautiful pink flower bracts in late spring. It has a conical growth pattern and you can expect its 8m height to be achieved in 20-50 years. The foliage will also progress through mid-green, red and purple for an impressive autumn display, however, you must ensure you plant it in acidic or neutral soil.

Cornus contraversa ‘Variegata’

This one forms a large shrub or small tree whose tiny cream flowers are borne in layers on its strongly tiered branches throughout the summer, giving it the common name of ‘Wedding Cake Tree’. It has matching creamy variegated foliage from spring to autumn, when it will turn shades of buttery yellow.

Always remember that we have a finite amount of column space for our recommendations and that there are dozens if not hundreds of other varieties waiting to be discovered.

By Josh Ellison

The results are in on this year’s addition of the eponymous award, having enjoyed participation in record numbers from around the world as over 8,000 entrants were scrutinised by a judging panel including Chris Young, editor of The Garden magazine, and children’s television personalities Dick and Dom, who endeavoured to encourage horticulture among young people.

Champion of 2012 is a photographer named Josie Elias, who submitted a stunning tableau to the ‘Gardens through the Seasons’ category. However, there were innumerable different specialties which each had their own ‘number ones’ and we’ll explore some of these now.

Alan Walley won first place in the ‘Abstracts and Details’ category with a superlative use of simplicity in terms of content, however, it is the colours that are the real star, as they seem to hold some esoteric meaning in themselves.

The ‘Plant Portraits’ category was headed by photographer Tom Hard, for his inverted view of a weeping willow.

Jacky Parker, (who also championed the ‘Wildlife in the Garden’ category), was placed second with her close up of a snowdrop. The minute focus of the shot, coupled with an extremely narrow depth of field, lends masses of significance to an otherwise unremarkable specimen.

Wildlife is one thing but what of the people of a garden? This year’s category winner was Lesley Chalmers’ rendering of a communal plot, rife with activity around a central table of produce, and overshadowed by the darkened skies we became so familiar with this summer.

Finally, outside of adult competition, we have the ‘Young Photographers’ and ‘Child Photographers’ awards, won by Alex Berryman who won with a provocative capture of a young robin, singing its lungs out and bronzed in the feathers of adolescence

and Amber Rose Amos stole victory in the under 11’s category with a marvellously colourful rendering which also included a mote of wildlife.

Check out the other entrants for yourself at the RHS website - suffice to say this was a stiff competition and any entrants we haven’t mentioned are certainly worth your viewing.

By Josh Ellison

A community in east London has recently been treated to a huge undertaking, in the environmental sense, as St. Stephen’s Green in Bow has been transformed into a spectacular outdoor play area and recreation ground.

Now we’ve spoken exhaustively on the benefits of added greenery, well, anywhere! But this impetus multiplies when you consider urban environments, because it is in these places that the plants’ presence is really felt, where they can perform a number of important tasks. Plants’ powers include cooling the surrounding air whilst also purifying - heat and pollution being major sources of discomfort in the city. The presence of tree canopies helps to distribute and slow the fall of rainwater, thus reducing the risk of flooding. There is also the ecological advantage because, let’s face it, every tree and flower is a potential home for some form of wildlife and finally, perhaps the most obvious reason, they’re just good for us - whether it be indirectly through their psychological effects, or more directly by cleaning the air we breathe.

However, I’d like to devote the remainder of this piece to the more innovative aspects of the Bow project, so we might avoid treading water on previous blogs. First of all, let’s consider the design and aesthetic of the garden - two lawns, one smaller and one larger, dominate the landscape of the park, with intersecting pathways cut through both. These are offset by the whimsical insect sculptures that have been integrated to capture the affection of children from the area. Alice in Wonderland, I am told, was one of the major inspirations behind the design of the Park, however, the company responsible also had sustainability fairly high on their agenda. All of the site’s paving, for example, is constructed from sustainable natural stone, including limestone and two types of granite.

But the guiding idea of the project was the inclusion of local residents, and while the sculptures of giant flowers and animals make for excellent decoration, they are also there to distract the youngest of adventurers while their elders might enjoy the fitness trail established solely for them, or alternatively the gym.

Whatever the motivation behind the park, it is clearly a success in its own right, although anything that will add some greenery to the big smoke has my seal of approval.

By Josh Ellison

In the approach to Remembrance Sunday we find ourselves sobered by our appreciation of those who so selflessly gave their lives in defence of the world we now live in.

Commonly one will wear an artificial poppy to symbolise the significance of the flowers that were to later adorn those theatres of butchery over ninety years ago and to reflect on that poignant horticultural occurrence that, separated by great distances, persists to this day on Flanders’ Fields, across the plains of Belgium and France and parts of modern Turkey.

It seems like providence, or perhaps cruelty, that the flowers of the annual poppy, ‘Papaver rhoeas’, should show such a vivid red, making their association with the blood spilt on the battlefield all the more moving, but they also represent life in the wake of great death. Recovery. Reconciliation. Hope.

These are themes that I would hope we might take from regular gardening in our daily lives, but there are many other varieties of poppy to brighten our gardens that do not carry the same, perhaps sombre connotations. Do be careful though as all Poppies are toxic.

Papaver commutatum ‘Ladybird’

The appropriately named annual ‘Ladybird Poppy’ possesses a similar red flush to those we wear on our lapels, however, it holds one key difference with its prominent black patched centre which gives it its name. Plant it in a sunny spot.

Papaver nudicaule ‘Champagne Bubbles’

‘The Champagne Bubbles’ variety of ‘Iceland Poppy’, as they are also known, derives its name from the myriad of colourful, tissue paper-like flowers it produces in the summer. They are highly attractive to bees and butterflies and can survive most weather conditions.

Papaver somniferum ‘Peony-flowered Mixture’

This tall, erect and hardy annual, also known as the ‘Opium Poppy’, possesses grey-green foliage and double flowers in colours ranging from white to pink to purple, and these will be borne throughout late spring and summer. These plants are fairly fragile, however, and for this reason I’d recommend not planting until mid spring and the assurance of no more frost has arrived.

Papaver orientale ‘Patty’s Plum’

Definitely my favourite variety of poppy is the perennial ‘Patty’s Plum’, which with its beautiful mauve petal colouring and jagged petal edges looks almost like a cross section of amethyst when in full bloom. In order to achieve this fullness of colour and shape though, it requires full sunlight and a sheltered position.

Meconopsis betonicifolia

These bristly beauties are another perennial variety of poppy with bright, neon-blue flowers that will pale over the progression of the summer months, giving them their common name of ‘Himalayan Blue Poppy’. However, to achieve their colour one must follow a specific regimen, as the plant prefers sheltered positions in partial shade and acidic soil content.

Meconopsis cambrica

The ‘Welsh Poppy’ is a cheerful bright yellow variety that blooms primarily in the summer. It also prefers acidic or neutral and consistently moist soil in partial shade to achieve this.

By Josh Ellison

Pardon? Wonderful? While it may seem to contradict your experience of these belligerent b****rs, biologists at Hull University have made a discovery that might shift the general attitude toward wasps.

Their findings have shown that a species of miniature parasitic wasp possesses an appetite that has potentially game-changing benefits for commercial farmers and domestic gardeners alike. The hope is that this particular species could provide a natural alternative to commercial pesticides by preying on the majority of agricultural pests and more specifically, aphids.

According to the National Farmers Union, there are now over 250 different species of aphid with a firm grounding in the UK, all of whom, aside from their reputed appetites, are famous for the spread of plant diseases which often leads to a loss in yield of around 25%.

As a result, the farming industry could be saved millions of pounds, not only on the pesticides themselves, but the equipment necessary to distribute them. Of course, there’s also the added benefit that our foods would no longer be exposed to artificial chemicals.

However, before these insects can change the future of farming, it is essential that their effects be field-tested (pun intended) to assess the ramifications their presence could have in terms of the ecosystem they inhabit - particularly concerning the effect on other predators sharing similar food sources, ladybirds and spiders, for example. But it’s no secret that insects like these can be turned to your advantage - farmers have been waging biological warfare on their pests for years, and the only requisite for an effective army is knowing your enemy. Once you are familiar with whichever species detriments the health of your own garden, you can select an appropriate predator to purge the problem and these are far from limited to the common Ladybird.

The minute Pirate Bug, for example, is a true wonder of pest control. Possessing one of the most varied diets among predatorial insects, they will also devour any eggs, larvae and adolescents of their prey, affording an absolute extermination. The Pirate Bug is an omnivore, however, they pose no threat to plants directly, instead feeding on the pollen and nectar of flowers or simply migrating in their absence.

If you are using a greenhouse this winter then some predatory mites would be a wise investment, as these can protect the leaves and stems of plants from terminal spider mites in humid conditions.

Finally, I would also give an honourable mention to the Dragonfly, a hunter so complete in its biological perfection that, like the Great White Shark, they have had no need to evolve since their inception to our planet. They are the apache helicopter of your garden with 360 degree vision and flight speeds of up to 35mph, they are more than a match for any flying insects and a great menace to those bound to the earth. Unfortunately, while the Pirate Bug and mites can be bought commercially, the Dragonfly is an ephemeral creature and getting them to consistently congregate in one place can be difficult. Your surest bet would be to establish a moderate wetland in the garden as these are among the most common breeding grounds for Dragonflies.

So, you see not all creepy-crawlies are to be shunned – many provide a positive and very necessary contribution to the health of our gardens.

By Josh Ellison

Heathers are a somewhat under-appreciated wildflower in Britain, given that they provide a beautiful punctuation to the sea of green that characterises the British countryside. There is a Heather flower for every season too, so we thought it was about time we prepared a list of the various types, first of all to raise awareness and popularity of the flower, but also with some instruction on how to care for them and, in an artistic sense, how best to utilise them in your garden.

They are an evergreen species, available in various sizes and colours, both of foliage and flower, but all can survive in more or less any conditions, with full hardiness against the elements, but most with a preference for acidic soils composed of either sand, loam or clay.

Floral & Hardy’s Top Ten Heathers:

Calluna vulgaris 'Spring Torch'

‘Spring Torch’ is a compact evergreen shrub with mauve colouring to the flowers throughout summer and autumn, but also with variegated leaf tips in orange, red and purple. It has an ultimate height and spread of 0.4m and 0.5m respectively.

Erica arborea 'Albert's Gold'

This mid-sized shrub, like the ‘Spring Torch’, is so named for its foliage which tints with golden yellow in the springtime, gently complementing its fragrant white flowering. Expect a height and reach of 2m and 0.9m.

Erica carnea 'Vivellii'

‘Vivellii’ is a particularly vibrant brand of heather with bright pink flowers in the winter months. Its growth is fairly diminutive with an ultimate spread of 0.35m and height of 0.5m. However, it is the foliage, rather than the size, that is this plants star quality, holding a deep green throughout the year to then be tinted bright purple with the onset of autumn.

Erica cinerea 'Hookstone White'

This variety is also dwarf in stature and mat-forming in habit. It has mid-green foliage and white flowers, borne through summer and autumn. Max height and spread are 0.35m and 0.65m respectively.

Erica darleyensis 'Furzey'

‘Furzey’ is a compact, dwarf shrub with rose pink flowers and pink tipped foliage in the spring time. Expect a maximum height and spread of 0.4m.

Erica erigena 'Irish Dusk'

‘Irish Dusk’ is a mound-forming evergreen, possessed of the typical needle-like foliage and salmon-pink flowers from winter to spring. Max spread and height are 0.5 -1m and 0.1-0.5m respectively.

Erica stuartii 'Irish Lemon'

Continuing the Irish theme (!), this low growing shrub bears bright yellow foliage and bright pink flowers in summer and autumn, with an ultimate size of 0.25m in height, and double that in spread.

Erica tetralix 'Alba Mollis'

‘Alba Mollis’ is a distinctive shrub that possesses grey foliage on matching stems and bell-like, white flowers in the summer and autumn. Ultimate height is 0.3m and a spread of 0.5m.

Erica vagans 'Mrs D F Maxwell'

This variety has dark green foliage and deep, rose-pink flowers through summer and autumn. Height and spread ceilings are estimated at 0.35m and 0.5m respectively.

Daboecia cantrabrica 'Silverwells Heath'

Perhaps ‘Silverwell's’ most endearing feature is the longevity of its flowers which it bears profusely upon its ovate, green foliage from spring to autumn in small white racemes. ‘Silverwell’ has a maximum height of 0.4m and spreading range of 0.6m.

Heathers need little maintenance, but do require a good trim over after flowering to maintain their shape, otherwise, over time, they’ll get leggy and bare at the base.

They’re well worth looking after though as they provide bold sheets of colour, often when there is little else in flower in the garden.

By Josh Ellison

This title refers to the hardworking topiary specialists at Penshurst Place, a formal garden located some thirty miles south of London. It is celebrating a very noble anniversary, as 2012 marks the twentieth year that Penshurst Place has contributed to the war on cancer, through some, arguably, unconventional methods. Since 1993 the site has been providing clippings from its giant Yew hedgerows, from which can be extracted Taxane - a chemical essential to the treatment of certain types of cancer.

Every year they have harvested over four tonnes of clippings to then be shipped to cancer treatment labs across the globe. Taxane works by halting mitosis (the division of cells) and thereby effectively halting cell growth, in turn inhibiting the spread of certain cancer cells, particularly those virulent in lung, ovarian, breast and neck cancer.

However, the really admirable element of all this is that the gardeners have only a ten week period in which the vital compound is active to complete their task.

Head Gardener at Penshurt, Corey Furness described the process:

'Every year we have two gardeners working full time on clipping the hedges, which takes five to six weeks in the late summer and early autumn. The yew hedging is a mile long, but because our gardeners have to trim the plants from all sides, they actually cut three miles of hedging. As a result, we normally generate around four tonnes of yew clippings in a season.'

Quite a monumental task for two people to complete, however, labours like these give testament to the potential value of determined horticulture. There’s a long history of plant material being used in medicine and it’s good to see that horticulture still has much to offer in this regard.

By Josh Ellison

In continuation of last week’s article concerning potential family activities over the coming half term, here’s a short selection of recipes that, with your help, your children could easily have a go at. As an added bonus, each of these treats has a distinctly macabre feel to suit the Halloween period.

Chocolate Ghouls

The first of our recipes is a relatively simple sweet you can make with only a microwave, a bowl and a sandwich bag. Coarsely chop a few ounces of white chocolate into a bowl and microwave until just melted, making a piping bag from the sandwich bag by cutting off a small corner, pour the melted chocolate into the bag and pipe ghosts onto grease proof paper. Leave these to cool and peel away.

Pumpkin Cookies

You should cover a board in rolled sugar cookie dough and using a pumpkin shaped cookie cutter remove the desired number of biscuits and bake according to dough recipe. These should then be iced first with a layer of orange icing and then more detailed black and green icing for facial features and the stem.

Ravioli Spiders

Departing from the sweet counter for a moment we have the Ravioli Spiders, an incredibly simple recipe whose most arduous step will be the supply of some spaghetti sauce. Put the sauces in a squeezy bottle and let your little terror draw out spiders webs on a plate. Use cooked ravioli (preferably spinach for a gross green colour) and orange peppers to create the creature’s legs and body.

Popped Eyes

The beauty of these is that they can be easily distributed as both treats for your own children or fodder for the neighbours’ kids who come knocking at your door. To make, simply take your favourite brand of lollipop and remove their covering, then to create your own covers you’ll need a square of white paper and some paint pens. Decorate the paper with various veins, an iris and pupil, and re-wrap the lollipops. Finish with a red ribbon tied at the base and voila, maximum gross out and minimum cost.

Butterbeer

Unless you’re living in a mountain cave, in which case I’d be curious how you’re reading this, then your kids have likely been gripped at some point in the last decade by Potter-mania. As such, it seems unwise not to include a basic recipe for the wizard’s favoured poison: Butterbeer. It’s actually incredibly simple to make:

For your butterscotch sauce whisk over medium heat: ¼ cup butter, ½ cup dark brown sugar, ½ cup heavy cream, ¼ tsp. salt. Bring the mixture to the boil and let it simmer for five minutes and then, once cool, pour over a scoop of ice cream already in the tankard of your choice. Top the whole thing off with Ginger Ale and there you have it! A pint The Three Broomsticks would be proud to serve.

By Josh Ellison

We’ve written a lot in this blog about the universal nature of horticulture and particularly how, with a little creativity, anyone can enjoy a garden, no matter who they are - that there’s some stimulation to be had, no matter what. This week we’re focusing on the sight impaired and particularly how you can tailor your garden for one suffering such a disadvantage. 

The statistics of sight impairment are more sombre than you might presume - over 2 million people in the UK suffer with serious sight disorders and 100 more are diagnosed every day. With that in mind, it’s no surprise that the RHS is using the ‘Thrive Project’ as a means to show how a new-found disability can be integrated with a healthy love of gardening.

One of the major philosophies of the project is not to identify gardeners by their disability, and to recognise that they are still people who should be treated with the dignity and respect that the title warrants is paramount. Therefore, it is recommended that if your garden is to cater to the visually impaired you prepare it accordingly, with practical measures to make their experience as comfortable as possible. With this in mind, one should consider as few changes in levels as possible in order to avoid the difficulty that uneven walkways might afford. 

Another creative and practical measure is the inclusion of a central water feature as the sound it creates will serve as a kind of central anchor to those who might not otherwise be able to navigate the space. Handrails can be an ugly addition to any garden, so instead try to construct beds and walls at waist height that they might be followed by hand.

Construction aside, you also have the planting scheme of your garden to consider, because, while we might consider the colours and shapes of our flowers to be their crowning glory, that might be only because we’re never forced to primarily address our other senses in the garden. Consider aromatic herbs such as Coriander and Mint, or flowers like Honeysuckle to stimulate the olfactory sense... 

and also those textured cultivars that are so pleasing to handle, like Pennisetum ‘Hameln’ or Stachys Byzantine. 

Finally we have our auditory senses - the sounds of a garden, I would propose, are probably the most vivid and vibrant second only to the sights, which is why I reiterate the value of a fountain or stream, or the inclusion of large bamboos to provide percussion to your living orchestra with their leaves and canes moving in the wind.

On a practical level, ensure you’ve a toileting area such as a small lawn or sandy area that Seeing Eye dogs might utilise and provide watering holes for them too. It’s also important to note that some common garden plants that are quite safe to humans can be quite toxic to dogs – Rhododendrons and Azaleas, for example, can cause severe breathing difficulties and even death if ingested, so do be careful with your plant selection.

This is only a cross section of what is essentially an infinite field of creativity and planning a garden for the sight impaired need only be as a limited as your own imagination.

By Josh Ellison

The government body DEFRA (Department for Environment Food and Rural Affairs) is on high alert in light of a recent epidemic that has spread devastation to local Ash tree populations, in England and Scotland most prevalently. 

The disease in question is known as Chalara fraxinea and attacks the plants in several key areas. Essentially a form of concentrated dieback, the organism causes leaf loss on a mass scale, thereby nullifying the process of photosynthesis and, if left unchecked, eventually leading to the death of the specimen. 

But, while the deterioration of foliage is the primary symptom of the disease, you can also recognise an affected plant by possible epicormic shoots forming on the trunk and bark.

Environmental secretary Owen Patterson outlined the major changes to the policies and restrictions concerning lumber trade and distribution in the hopes that a repeat of the 1970’s Dutch Elm catastrophe can be avoided:

“This disease could have a devastating impact on our native ash trees so we need to take action to stop it. We are working towards a ban on imports, and looking to impose movement restrictions on trees from infected areas.”

In response, the Plant Health Authority has now initiated a purging protocol by monitoring any areas with so much as a whisper of infection to ensure that any affected plants are destroyed.

However, there are also financial ramifications for nurseries and growers in the UK as a nationwide ban on Ash import could come into effect following an extended consultation now underway, should it be deemed necessary.

As for personal involvement, the Forestry Commission has insisted that any suspected cases of infection should be reported to them immediately to ensure swift and appropriate disposal before the affliction can spread.

So, if you have Ash trees in your garden, keep your eyes peeled!

By Josh Ellison

The RHS has come up trumps yet again in providing perplexed parents with some means of distraction for the boisterous youngsters tearing around the house this October half term. In particular, there are attractions for all the family at the four major RHS gardens around the country.

Wisley has introduced a Halloween themed venture this year that includes a spooky scavenger hunt for witch’s fingers along the wilderness trail, a crafts workshop for building your own horrible spiders at the Clore Learning Centre and finally, on the eve itself, there will be a collection of scary story telling sessions. Later on in the evening families are also invited to don fancy dress and make their own wands from materials found within the gardens.

Continuing with family frivolities, Hyde Hall offers possibly the most complete integration of horticulture and festivity with its pumpkin-carving extravaganza, exhibiting also the lifecycle of the vegetable from inception to its final fright on All Hallows night. There will also be a chance to carve your own witch-like candles and listen to more ghost stories, not to mention prizes for those in fancy dress. Crafting your own twiggy spider is another activity on offer, as well as decorating bird nest boxes.

Harlow Carr also has the birds in mind, and visitors can make tasty treats for our feathered friends, or learn more about the birds who call the garden home from a local group of ornithologists. 

There will also be the chance to make your own ‘boggart’ – a mischievous spirit in old English folklore - using bit and pieces found around the gardens.

Rosemoor invites children to come and make their own wild beast from seeds, berries and autumn leaves, while for older children we have autumn promises, which include a herb and flower garland workshop where one can learn how to craft one’s own, very individual Christmas presents.  The Pregnant Fish Theatre Company also brings Devonshire folklore and ghost stories to life for your children’s entertainment.

Keep tuned in for more half-term ideas!

By Josh Ellison

Chrysanthemums, like the Dahlias we looked at last week, are among the more eclectic and indeed more consistently beautiful late-flowering plants that can be successfully raised in Britain, so we’ve compiled a list of ‘Mums’ from each aesthetic category for your consideration.

Incurved – ‘Evelyn Bush’

An attractive flower whose white blooms with incurved petals will form a tight ball, the Evelyn Bush is also possessed of divided dark foliage, and happens to be among the most drought tolerant on this list.

Reflexed – ‘Regalia’

A half hardy perennial who upright stems will produce dark red and purple flowers with petals turned outward from the centre in the autumn, and aromatic, emerald foliage from spring to winter.

Intermediate – ‘Escort’

‘Escort’ will bear large, loose, orange-red flowers with partly incurved and partly reflexed petals throughout the autumn months.

Single-flowered – ‘Enbee Wedding’

It’s inescapable that all Chrysanthemums are beautiful, however, the single flower variety is held in such regard that in Japan it has become symbolic of the emperor himself! The Enbee Wedding variety will bear pale pink and yellow flowers at around 1.2 m in height throughout the summer.

Pompom – ‘Denise’

This half-hardy perennial has a compact, upright growth habit and in autumn it will bear dozens of bright yellow flowers whose shape give it its name.

Sprays – ‘Pennine Silver’

Another half-hardy perennial which has an upright habit and, in the autumn, bears many small, pale pink and white flowers on each stem, set against a back drop of dark green, divided foliage.

Charms – ‘Red Charm’

This small, compact, domed plant has masses of small, daisy-like flowers that will generally appear during middle autumn, however, they are not especially hardy plants and as such it is recommended you shelter them during particularly strong winds.

Cascades – ‘Pink Cascade’

As the name would suggest, and due to their trailing stems, the Pink Cascade is more akin to a hanging plant than an upright, and it will bear its many pink blooms during the late summer through to early autumn - a fantastic wall decoration.

Spidery-flowered – ‘Green Mist’

Deriving their subtitle from the long strand-like inflorescences they produce, of course the structure of these flowers makes them extremely vulnerable to wind damage and as such a walled position may be preferable.

Anemone-flowered – ‘Beautiful Lady’

Finally we have the Beautiful Lady, an anemone flowering variety with variegated petals of white and hot pink, generally overlapping on three tiers.

Fortunately Chrysanthemums share a commonality in that their ideal growth conditions don’t vary between different types, but the downside is that this means that they are equally susceptible to coarse weather conditions, drought and a lack of sunlight. So, you must ensure that your ‘Mums’ are planted in an adequately sheltered position, with full sunlight and free draining soil. In regards to the actual soil type, I shouldn’t worry, as Chrysanthemums are equally suited to acidic, alkaline and neutral soils of any combination of sand, silt or loam. They also make excellent, long-lasting cut flowers.

By Josh Ellison

Last Monday marked the 25th anniversary of one of the most ecologically devastating storms in Britain’s history, a veritable horticultural genocide that stripped the countryside of a great number of trees among its ancient woodlands in the space of just a few hours.

However, just as a terrible disease will offer unparalleled insight into the workings of the human body, this historic blight is not without its rewards. Judging the storm in hindsight means we can reflect on which parts of our forests were most gravely affected and why – specifically, which types of trees, and which of their characteristics is it that makes them susceptible to these kinds of incidents.

Peter Buckley gave this insight into the discriminatory factors that may have lead to so great a loss,

"What the storm showed was that trees which had probably reached their full height but were still young and not securely anchored blew over very easily…

…Those that had been in situ for a very long time had had time to spread their roots, or trees on the edge of plantations that did not have so much competition on the outside of the stand, these stood up and did pretty well."

Having lost over 15 million trees in the event, it was crucial that the National Trust and Forestry Commission quickly assess the long term effects of such a deluge explains the head of forestry Ray Hawes:

"Just after the storm, one of my colleagues went over a lot of our parks and gardens and took a lot of aerial shots in order to get an idea of tree and woodland damage.”

But, in retrospect, it has been found that the purging action of the storm, though somewhat heavy handed, may have in fact helped buffer the dwindling ecosystem of some of Britain’s major woodlands. In fact the storm has been described by many, including Dr. Keith Kirby, as a ‘blessing in disguise’ because at the time of its arrival many of England’s canopies were on the verge of closing and, by thinning the numbers of taller trees, allowed many smaller species of flora exposure to the sunlight of which they were being deprived.

""Until then, we had not fully appreciated just how uniform our woods were becoming….

…The last remnants of active coppicing were also dying out, so the woods were getting into a fairly dark and shady state."

A study that was begun in 1971 focused on 100 woodland plot across the UK and, disturbingly, it revealed how the biodiversity of our forests - predominantly at floor level -was in steady decline, and this correlation remained true for all but 10 of the plots under study who were found all to be situated within the pathway of the storm.

While these findings are far from conclusive on the beneficial effects of the storm, the connection between the declining variety of our woodland flowers and the increase of shade levels in those environments is undeniable.

"It was the regular opening of the canopies through the coppice regimes in the past that meant a lot of our woodlands had these great displays of spring flowers…

…The storm might have given them a temporary respite but, unfortunately, it was only temporary and the decline is now continuing."

Dr. Peter Buckley, who is associated to Dr. Kirby through a 1993 report on the storm that the pair co-edited, has stated that a secondary benefit of the storm was that it changed composition and increased the variety in many woodlands that might have been considered monocultures.

"For example, a lot of the Beech trees on the Downs were felled (in the storm) and were succeeded by Birch and other pioneer species," he explained.

So there has been a break-up of some of the monoculture and clonal vegetation patches underneath the trees."

And so we can either dread, or celebrate the memory of the great 1987 storm, while claiming the lives of 18 people, it may potentially have saved the ecosystems of our country from monoculture and massive ecological decline.

By Josh Ellison

In this blog we cover four RHS gardens that are specifically famed for the grandeur and variety of their autumn events taking place this weekend, and these are Wisley, Harlow Carr, Hyde Hall and Rosemoor.

This year the Wisley festival has been entitled ‘A taste of Autumn’ which, as you might presume, is indicative of its food-based frivolities, which will include appearances from the likes of Pippa Greenwood and Cleve West who will be discussing his whirlwind since striking gold at this years Chelsea Flower Show. 

Pippa will be on hand to offer advice from her new book ‘Veg Growing Made Easy and Fun’ and also signing copies during her 1pm slots on Saturday and Sunday, which supplements nicely the ‘5 a day’ stall which will be offering similar tips throughout the weekend. If that wasn’t motivation enough, you also have ‘The Big Chef’ Peter Osbourne, who is returning to Wisley for seasonal cooking demonstrations at 11.30. 

Celebrities aside, there are still the myriad of stalls, produce and advice to sample, not to mention the mountainous numbers of apples available to taste, orthodox and obscure alike, which are available at Wisley.

Now, a common element of all the autumn shows is the presence of advice stalls that offer tips and guidance on how to rear your own vegetables and Harlow Carr is no exception as it will also be featuring a guest appearance from broadcasting personality James Wong, in case you missed him earlier at Wisley. Joe Maiden, BBC radio presenter and affluent horticulturalist, will be picking up on the finer points of autumnal garden care and from 10-4 the Yorkshire Rotters will be giving advice on how to reduce food waste at home. 

For the kids, Harlow is also sporting a trinket-based side event to their annual woodland walk, as they’ve now introduced the ‘Crown Building Workshop’ wherein youngsters and their families can amalgamate any detritus they’ve found along their walks, into an arts and crafts masterpiece that they can even wear on their way home!

Speaking of family fun, Hyde Hall is this year offering a miniature farmyard for children to enjoy alongside barrel organ maestros, craft activities and apple tasting events. Similar traditional events are in full swing at Rosemoor too, but better hurry - they all kick off this weekend!

By Josh Ellison

We all knew this day would come, the movies have been prophesising it for decades, as have some of our greatest writers - the alien menace has arrived, or should I say has been unveiled. That’s right comrades, this creature has surreptitiously integrated itself into nearly every country on earth and has done it so subtly that we only noticed the effects, rather than the presence itself, a few months ago. We face an enemy of machinations so deviant that they move now – literally - beneath our very feet!

I am, of course, referring to the Earthworm. Anticlimactic though that may seem, my previous summation is entirely correct (albeit rather over dramatic!) and their invasion has indeed grown into a global phenomenon affecting ecosystems as diverse and widespread as can be imagined. However, the most explicitly affected areas are those of the Americas, which are now suffering the miscalculations of a generation centuries dead - that of the original settlers – who were responsible for transporting this decidedly non-aquatic creature into the depths of the Amazon and the fogs of the North Carolina forests.

The primary species suspected in this ecological occupation are a family of European earthworms from the Lumbricidae family, and also a particular genus of Asian variety known as Amynthas. In terms of their North American invasion, the major detriment they are causing to the environment is the competition they are providing the native millipedes of the deciduous forests concerning their food source. 

It seems that this battle for supremacy is fairly evenly matched in that the presence of the millipedes is inhibiting the breeding capacity of the newcomers, however, while surface food is merely an option to the burrow-capable worms, it is an imperative to the millipedes who are stranded near the soil’s edge.

South of the border the worm problem is somewhat less defined because, while they are out-breeding their competitors at a rate of knots (with nearly an eighty fold capacity), the Earthworms there are also serving a wealth of beneficial purposes for the more barren areas of the rainforest.

Where deforestation has occurred en masse, it has become impossible for endemic species to adapt to the coarser surface soil that has now been exposed by the natural erosion that comes as a result of the sudden removal of its shelter - the trees. Fortunately, the Eurasian species that have set up shop are able to adapt and as such are now providing a resurgent source of potassium and nitrogen build up within the soil, which, in turn, will greatly contribute to the propagation of future generations of canopy-bearing trees.

So, friend or foe, it’s up to you to decide, however, perhaps we shouldn’t so readily persecute these foreign invaders as their positive ramifications may not yet be totally foreseeable. What is clear, and what has been apparent over the centuries, most notably for example with the Victorians introduction of Japanese Knotweed to the UK, is that non-endemic species can have a significant impact on the native environment, so caution is always necessary.

By Josh Ellison

The Mediterranean is one of the most favoured holiday destinations of any jet-setting Brit. It’s close and therefore accessible, not too hard on the wallet and certainly a locale of great natural beauty and culture and it is this third aspect on which I wish to focus. More specifically how the latter affects the former, as the biodiversity of the Mediterranean region is one the most at odds with its climate. Being for the most part a dry and arid place, the Mediterranean is known for semi-desert landscapes - most prominent throughout the inland areas of Egypt and Turkey, however, where the Nile and other deltas run, it is among the richest ecosystems on the planet, not least of which is thanks to its flora.

However, you needn’t shell out hundred of pounds on flights and sun screen to enjoy this slice of nature - there are dozens of Mediterranean species that can be raised right here at home - ten of which you’ll find below. Most of them are quite hardy in most parts of the UK.

Aeonium ‘Schwartzkopf’

A plant so stunningly different from domestic cultivars to be comparable to extra-terrestrial flora, it’s a succulent with rosettes of black/purple foliage. It may also produce yellow flowers in the summer and will reach a terminal height and spread of 0.6m. It will, however, need protection in winter as it’s not frost hardy, so probably best in a pot to make it easier to bring it inside before the first frosts.

Acanthus mollis

This large, hardy herbaceous plant will sprout white and purple racemes of flowers, exceeding a metre in height and will also bear fruit in the autumn, but it is its foliage that is perhaps most striking. It has large, glossy leaves, which became almost an emblem of Mediterranean architecture, adorning many a classical marble column.

Anthemis punctata

Silvery foliage is often an indication of a hot homeland and Sicilian Chamomile is a mat forming evergreen perennial that will show foliage, alternately grey in winter and silver in summer, when it will also sprout large daisy-like flowers. As a ground based, matted plant you can expect heights no greater than 0.3m, however, its overall spread should be triple that.

Campsis radicans

The Trumpet Honeysuckle is a fast growing deciduous climber that will decorate your garden with exotic-looking, tubular, pinky-orange flowers from summer through autumn. As a vine forming plant, this cultivar has great range in terms of how far it can grow with an expected spread of about 4m and heights of up to 12m.

Ceanothus ‘Italian Skies’

This mid-sized evergreen shrub has small, circular, glossy green leaves and masses of tiny lavender-like, deep blue flowers in late spring. This shrub makes for an excellent statement plant with a 2.5m spread radius and ultimate height of 2m.

Cistus dansereaurii decumbens

This is a small evergreen shrub with compact formation that is possessed of emerald green, sticky foliage and flowers of white and yellow blotched with deep red throughout summer. Will have a max spread of 1.5m and max height of around 1m.

Cynara cardunculus

This striking flower looks like the combination of a sea anemone and a pineapple and is actually related to the artichoke. It has a globular form composed of dozens of spined purple flowers atop a pod-like base. It is a decidedly vertical plant that will grow to about 2m in height with a spread radius of 2.5m.

Fremontedendron

The ‘California Glory’ is a large evergreen shrub that will grow to heights between six and eight metres after a ten year growth period, during which time they will produce rich yellow flowers every year from spring to autumn. By far the largest cultivar on our list it is important that you allow for the kind of space this specimen will require to reach full maturity and give it a warm wall for it to grow against for best results.

Nerium oleander

Nerium is another evergreen shrub, however, its assets are decidedly less curvaceous in that both foliage and flower form in a lance-like shape and in emerald green, and pink or white respectively. It has a max spread of 1.5m and a max height of 2.5m. Be careful though as all parts of the plant are toxic.

Verbena bonariensis

Verbena is a hardy, herbaceous perennial producing small, globular panicles at the end of long narrow stems, lasting from early to late autumn. Expect a max height of 2.5m and corresponding spread of around 0.5m.

One of the major, and self-evident, aspects of a successful Mediterranean themed garden is the effective simulation of the endemic conditions of the plants in question. As our climate is consistently colder than anything they might have experienced, a good rule of thumb is to plant any of these in a sunny spot whilst providing some shelter. The second universal is to ensure that these species have a free-draining soil that doesn’t become waterlogged, particularly in winter, and you should have a hospitable environment for your exotic additions.

Probably not a good time to be planting any of these out now, with winter coming on, but certainly is a good time to be planning your Mediterranean garden so that you’re ready to get going next spring.

By Josh Ellison

A true horticultural legend has departed from the theatre of competition recently, the celebrated Jekka McVicar, whose labours have yielded a level of consistent excellence and lasting influence seldom seen in a nursery. She has elected to transform her world-famous organic herb garden into a learning centre for school children and younger gardeners.

Over a quarter of a century has passed since the garden’s inception and, in that time, McVicar has led an illustrious and successful career, receiving over 50 gold medals directly from RHS competitions and contributing to countless others through the supply of plants from her Bristol based nursery.

This conversion has been a long time coming as McVicar officially announced the 2010 Floral Marquee at Chelsea to be her last exhibition, but she will conclude all sales from the farm as of the end of September 2012. Perhaps out of duty to the society whose council of whom she has long been a member, she will focus the efforts of the site now on the creation of a herboretum which will aid the RHS in the documentation and research of some 650 species of herbs that the centre has collected over the years.

'I'm hugely excited by seeing plants growing to their full size in raised beds – it'll look fantastic,' she says. 'Over the last three decades I've built a huge collection of different rosemaries, thymes and oreganos - it's very rare to see them all together.'

On top of this refurbishment of the nursery’s priorities, Jekka will also be personally running workshops for school children and prospective gardeners in order to pass on the wealth of knowledge she has garnered on the subject. As a result of this new venture, the renovated garden will open and provide unprecedented access to the public as of 2013.

In reflection of this venture we’ve compiled a small list of our own favourite hardy garden herbs that you can easily grow yourself at home:

Rosemary, Thyme, Sage, Mint, Fennel, Chives, Oregano, Tarragon, Bay leaves, Lemon Balm

You’ll notice I haven’t mentioned three of the staple kitchen herbs: Basil, Parsley or Coriander for good reason, as unfortunately they are not frost hardy. By all means attempt to cultivate these wonderful flavours, but be warned that they will either need to be brought inside to a bright windowsill in winter, or you’ll have to buy fresh plants each year.

By Josh Ellison

Dahlias are truly heavenly bodies in the horticultural world, not to mention one of the most diverse forms of flowering plant in the world. They are easy to grow, will tolerate most soil types and, although they prefer some sun, will also grow in partial shade. They have a long flowering season – from July until the first frosts – so if you look about you, you’ll still see them in flower now, giving a last burst of bright colour before winter sets in.

They have numerous different forms, colours and appearances and so I’ve collated a list of our favourite examples from each of these forms so that you can make your own choice.

Single-flowered -  ‘First Love’

This tuberous perennial has divided green foliage and crimson centred, peach coloured flowers during the summer and autumn months.

Colorette - ‘Pooh’

This flower is affectionately named for the yellow/orange colour scheme it shares with Christopher Robin’s bear companion, and also for the allure it poses to honey bees and other small insects.

Anemone-flowered - ‘Goldie Gull’

This is a brightly coloured insect trap that will bear large, globular clusters of tiny, yellow flowers on upright stems in yellow, orange and pink.

Paeony-flowered -  ‘Bishop of Llandaff’

This one comes with feather-like divided, deep bronze-purple foliage, contrasting well with its striking red flowers.

Cactus - 'Tsuke Yorine Shisha’

This Dahlia bears attractive, snowy white tendril-like petals on narrow, upright stems.

Semi-cactus - ‘Blackberry Ripple’

This one, as its name suggests, bears similarly formed flowers to the above, but variegated to the tune of purple, lavender and white.

Ball - ‘Polventon Supreme’

These flowers will assume a tightly globular, yellow appearance.

Pompom - ‘Red Carol’

Another spherical form, this cultivar will characteristically bear crimson blooms and is highly attractive to most types of insect, particularly pollinators, and as such its presence in your garden can be beneficial to all the flowers there.

Waterlily - ‘Candy Cane’

This marvellously decorative flower will bear variegated crimson and cream flowers in large rounds, while their form has the appearance and consistency of the cacti. This is considered to look more like a water lily.

Decorative - ‘Claudette’

The decorative Claudette makes for an excellent border plant with its striking purple colour scheme.

Thus ends the Dahlia deluge; I hope you can find a place for one or several of these cultivars in your borders to give you valuable late season colour.

By Josh Ellison

Recently, the RHS announced their champion of this year’s best kept prison garden in England and Wales for 2012, and this year’s winner of the Windlesham Trophy is HM Prison Whatton in Nottinghamshire.

After the second heat of the competition, during which the entrants were whittled down to a mere 25, Whatton won for the first time since the year 2000, and this is partly due to the rising quality of their entry, but mostly due to the fact that their grounds have undergone extensive renovation and expansion, which no doubt contributed to their victory this year.

One of the most impressive aspects of Whatton’s garden was the integration of the old site with the newly expanded area and also of the support given to local ecology, through the use of wildflower meadows (on a micro scale of course) within the space, together with wildlife ponds. They also grow vegetables to be used in the prison kitchens.

I’ve written on several occasions about the rehabilitative benefits of horticultural work, specifically among wounded veterans of the armed forces and repeat drug users, but the same therapeutic effects work for prisoners too. 

The effects of such a task are not only immediate but more crucially, persistent, as gardening is a perpetual task. The sense of ritual and routine that will often inhibit an ex-convict in the outside world if they are stripped of them too quickly after years of adherence, can be carried on in a far more constructive and rewarding sense where horticulture is concerned. It also gives prisoners a sense of pride in their surroundings and a feeling of investment in their own environment.

It is a vindicating happening for those involved in the initiative, as its founder Lord Windlesham was chairman of Britain’s parole board system when he started the project - obviously he too saw the beneficial value of such a pastime.

By Josh Ellison

There have been a throng of ruffled feathers recently, or should I say wings, in Ribeauville, in the Alsace region of France. The area has been abuzz (sorry!) with the sudden and unusual colourings of the local bee’s pollen covered legs and, given that the global population has already been in steady decline in recent years, this was a cause of some concern for their keepers.

The result was that the keepers noticed that their bees had begun producing unnaturally toned honey in blue, green and red and, aside from the bees’ health and wellbeing, there were also the dire financial implications for their major commodity. Unsure of the viability and safety of such a change in their product, they set about investigating the cause and possible solutions for the problem. 

Their search did not lead far from home, as they realised the existence of a confectionary plant owned by the Mars company only a few miles away and that the plant had been storing waste residue from their popular M&M’s brand, which the bees had targeted for its bright colours and sticky sweetness.

As a result the bees began producing honey in direct colour correlation to the residue they’d been eating. Fortunately the factory workers realised the scenario almost simultaneously to the bee-keepers and have now taken measures to prevent future exposure.

As a fan of the occasional sweet myself, I think it a shame that this fortuitous decoration could not be put to better use - I say roll out blue baklava and the Christmas flapjacks of green and red, but unfortunately the keepers have deemed it unsellable and will have it destroyed - shame!

By Josh Ellison

Summer can be a slightly depressing time of year, as more and more of your friends and relatives embark on vacations to exotic climes that you either cannot afford, or have not the time to enjoy, and even the comforts of home can become somewhat stagnant. Therefore, I write this piece in response to those with the luxury of free time, but perhaps not the position to take best advantage of it, so that next year you can bring the tropics to your own backyard.

Below you will find a group of plants possessed of the exoticism to facilitate a figurative escapism, but the hardiness to not make your garden a rude awakening for them should the notorious British weather turn on you.

Floral & Hardy’s Top Ten Tropical Plants for the British Garden:

Agapanthus ‘Big Blue’

This attractive semi-evergreen perennial has striking blue, globular inflorescences that will grow to heights of 90cm. But while this plant is hardy enough to endure outdoor winter conditions, it is recommended you regulate watering and mulch well to prevent hard frost damage.

Chaemerops humilis

With the common name of ‘Dwarf Fan Palm’, this is a hardy, evergreen palm whose fronds are reminiscent of the arid Mediterranean. It is quite slow growing and will probably not get above head height in the British garden.

Cordyline australis

This is another palm for our list, although this one originates from Australia. This evergreen has long, strap-like green leaves and may also bear large sprays of flowers in summer in ideal conditions. It will get to about 10ms tall in very mild areas of the UK.

Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’

This ominously named deciduous species likely garnered its moniker from the intense red colouration of the arching flowers it bears throughout the summer - a real eye-catcher. The flower spikes reach to about 90cms tall.

Dicksonia antarctica

Dicksonia are a species of tree fern whose porous trunk is entwined with thin fibrous roots that feed the crown of bright green foliage. Plant in a shady position and water the trunk frequently in dry weather.  In the UK they can reach to up to 4-5ms tall.

Fatsia japonica

One of Japan’s best worst kept secrets is the profuse amount and variety of flora that has invaded the English ecosystem in recent centuries. Species like the Fatsia are consistently overlooked despite their glossy foliage, intriguing clusters of small, white flowers and distinctive black fruits. They are hardy in the UK and will grow in sun or shade, reaching about 2 metres tall.

Hedychium densiflorum ‘Assam Orange’

My favourite among its peers found here is the ginger lily, ‘Assam Orange’, whose tall, carrot-coloured blooms appear as pillars of flame amid the lances of green foliage it bears and this complemented by the gorgeous fragrance they produce. Mulch over the tubers in winter to protect them from frost.

Lobelia ‘Russian Princess‘

In step with the genuine article, the ‘Russian Princess’ is an upright specimen whose beauty is consistent from bloom to leaf which will appear magenta and purple-bronze respectively, however, be warned that this maiden is fairly toxic and can cause severe discomfort if ingested. End metaphor.

Phyllostachys nigra

If there is a lone genus that can better evoke the mystique and power of the jungle then I am unaware of it, and this Bamboo will be Rembrandt’s black to the many colours of your garden, insinuating drama through both its starkness, and sheer size growing to up to 4 metres tall! The sound of wind through bamboo is highly evocative too.

Trachycarpus fortunei

We end this with an absolute picture of the tropics and Trachycarpus fortunei, or ‘Chusan Palms’ as they are commonly known, are large, evergreen palms with interesting, fibre-covered trunks and their floppy, lance shaped foliage, arranged in fans, will provide a back drop for their sprays of yellowish flowers and globular fruits. They are hardy in mild areas, although cold winds can shred the leaves, and can reach a height of up to 10 metres.

By Josh Ellison

When you mention the RHS and autumn in the same breath, it’s impossible not to conjure images of flower shows and the golden, red and orange colouring of the trees. While the Society is rightfully synonymous with the floral side of things, it is among this intimidating reputation that their involvement in the agricultural side, aside from a research heavy role, can become lost. As such, this piece details the fun and interesting goings on at this year’s RHS London Harvest Festival Show, which is the epitome of all the seasonal labours coming to fruition near the year’s conclusion.

One of the returning features at this year’s edition is the Giant Pumpkin competition, which welcomes growers from all over the country to measure their largest and heaviest pumpkins against the professionals, in the hopes of winning a grand prize of £1000.

A new theme to be introduced to the show, however, and not unjustly considering its situation at the Horticultural Halls, Westminster in the heart of the metropolis, is the idea of domestic horticulture within an urban environment. The edgily entitled ‘This is not an Allotment’, focuses on alternative methods of growing, rather than the more orthodox school of thought that frankly just isn’t practical in the confines of urban living.

As always there will the apple tasting venue, which unsurprisingly focuses on guests’ ability to identify different types of the fruit, based solely on taste and appearance. 

This will then feed into the identification aspect of the ‘Foraging Forum’, which has been newly established in order to provide a stage from which people can dispense what knowledge they have of wilderness survival, particularly the search for edible food, which is further enforced by these tasting sessions though in a somewhat more passive respect!

Finally, and perhaps most excitingly, we have the actual harvest side of things. This year’s late openings include the opportunity to feast on some of the finest produce that the RHS has to offer, as well as a second chance to sample and purchase some stock for the burners at home.

October 9th’s late start has been declared a necessity due to the unprecedented appearance of the RHS’ own brand cider derived directly from the Wisley orchard, not to mention the vegetable orchestra which, as the name would suggest, will regale onlookers with veggie bound music until evening’s close.

By Josh Ellison

This blog describes some of the different annual plants that can be sown during the early autumn months for flowering next year. Of course, with the territory of autumnal planting comes the hardiness to withstand the environmental conditions that implies, and what you’ll end up with are much sturdier plants next year.

 However, it is incumbent upon me to once again impress upon would-be planters that the threat of frost damage, particularly to the root structures of flowering plants, is ever present from September right through to mid-April and even May, and for this reason, no matter how hardy the plant professes to be, it is essential that you ensure all pots and growth sites are well drained to minimise the risk of frost damage.

Floral & Hardy’s Top Ten Hardy Annuals to sow now:

Agrostemma githago

Commonly referred to as the ‘Corncockle’, this tall flower will produce bright, single, magenta coloured flowers throughout the summer with a spreading habit.

Calendula officinalis

The ‘English Marigold’ comes under many names and guises, but for our purposes I’ve selected the aptly named ‘Orange King’ that produces bushels of bulbous, globular flowers whose bright orange petals match their stamen.

Centaurea cyanus

Annual ‘Cornflowers’, and my selection, ‘Polka Dot Mix’ are upright and colourful in the extreme, with frilly flowers which are good for cutting, in white, pink, blue or purple and everything in between.

Eschscholzia californica

This, the ‘Sun Shades’ variety of the ‘Californian Poppy’ is a bushy, late-flowering annual, whose bright orange hues are wonderfully offset by its bluish foliage.

Godetia amoena

The ‘Fruit Punch’ variety of Godetia is a beautiful display of the red and white colour spectrum, and everything in between. It will show its wonderful palette throughout the summer months.

Iberis umbellata

The ‘Candytuft’ is a compact annual with spreading habit that will bear linear, emerald leaves and, in the case of ‘Fairy’ mix, clusters of pink, white, lavender and carmine flowers from late spring.

Linaria maroccana

‘Toadflax’ is a compact, bushy plant with an upright growth habit and small, snap-dragon-like flowers through the summer months. The variety ‘Fairy Bouquet’ bears multi-coloured flowers.

Nemophila menziesii

This annual, also known as ‘Baby Blue Eyes’, will show flowers reminiscent in both colour and structure of your grandmother’s china saucers - pale blue accentuated by a cream centre - lovely.

Nigella damascena

Continuing with the blue section we have the markedly deeper and more mysterious ‘Midnight Blue’ variety of ‘Love-in-a-Mist’, whose titular flowers and black seed pods, combined with its slender shape, make for an alluring flower indeed.

Scabiosa atropurpurea

Finally we have the ‘Pincushion Flower’, whose name is derived from the clumped formation of many tiny flowers. The ‘Dwarf Mixed’ variety bears flowers in many colours that are sweetly fragrant, and the butterflies love them!

By Josh Ellison

Currently one of the major concerns facing the Woodland Trust is the apparent lack of interest among the general public in the field of ‘Phenology’, or the study of animal and plant life cycles and the effects that climate has on them. According to the Trust, the number of voluntary researchers and contributors to their ecological archives has been on a steady decline in recent years and this has been largely attributed to the average age of those who are helping being rather high, and that many of their regulars are simply physically unable to do it anymore. In response to this, they have sent out a rallying cry to young horticulturalists and wildlife experts that they begin immediately where previous generations have left off -  as one of their officiates Dr. Lewthwaite was quoted as saying  - ‘to pick up the baton.’

The doctor explained that in recent years, and particularly the last few summers, the Trust had noticed a general lengthening of the UK’s growth period and as a result the records for regular growth and habitation are becoming more and more important as a yard stick against which to measure the changes in our environment.

“You might not think it a problem if everything is growing longer, but one of the difficulties is that timings may go out of sync.

Along a food chain, you have all these perfectly adapted timings, but if the leaves are coming out earlier than caterpillars, and earlier than birds can lay their eggs for the chicks to eat the caterpillars, then those natural timings could be threatened."

The UK Phenology Network, which is maintained by the Woodland Trust, or ‘Nature’s Calendar’, as it is affectionately known, is therefore under threat, not of destruction, but of ignorance, of being unable to recommend direct courses of action based on evidence, rather than predictions, and it is this evidence that will prove our best armament against the adverse effects of future environmental changes.

The obvious question is, what can You do about it? Well it’s rather simple - by accessing the Trust’s website, and more specifically the part concerning this (still) mighty calendar, you can establish an account in which you can record all your findings, however great or small. It may seem like a menial task, or even that the entire project is too daunting to make a dent in it yourself, but as Jack Cohen would say: “Every little helps!”

By Josh Ellison

The first victory of any gardener is judicious preparation and, as with any work in progress (which your garden will never cease to be!), the foundations you lay will dictate the success of the project. So looking forward to the weekend, we’ve reviewed the most common and pressing group of tasks you should be looking to complete before autumn really sets in.

The autumn harvest

This is more applicable to vegetable gardeners as now is the time to harvest the crop that have come to fruition over the summertime, including Pumpkins, Runner Beans and Sweetcorn. But you can also sow and plant now crops such as Broad Beans, Asparagus, Spring Onions, Spinach and Spring Cabbage.

Frugality in fruition

I can happily say we’ve already had our first crumble of the autumn - blackberry and apple if you’re asking - and I’m also happy to say that while the apples were not from our own garden, the blackberries did come courtesy of a nearby bush. Autumn is the time to reap nature’s labours and your own. Any excess fruit should be carefully prepared for storage, either in the freezer or, as in the case of apples, in a cool shed or garage, and later used in anything from jams and jellies to pies and cobblers.

Wildlife and your protection from it!

At this time of year in particular birds and insects are on the look-out for juicy fruits and seeds and as such it is essential that you instigate protection measures for your plants and more specifically your fruit and veg crops. As a response, you should net the leafy vegetables and your soft fruits to protect them from the birds.

Ornamental planting for spring

Many perennials can be divided now to provide more plants for next year for free. Or why not share them with friends? Who knows you might get something different in return to add to your collection. Now would also be a good time to sow any hardy annuals and herbaceous perennials, and to plant spring bulbs to ensure plenty of colour next year.

Building a sanctuary

Probably my least favourite job of the year (particularly because ours is so awkward to erect) is putting up the temporary greenhouse in preparation for the colder weather, in order to safeguard the more exotic and environmentally demanding species in the garden. If you’re lucky enough to have a permanent greenhouse, start taking your tender plants inside soon. If you have neither, a conservatory or windowsill will do just as well, as long as it doesn’t get too hot.

Rehousing

You may also have relocated some of your houseplants outdoors in summer that they might add to the character of your garden, (it also does them a world of good), however, now that the winter cold approaches it is essential these tender plants be returned to the indoor environment that will protect them through the inhospitable weather we’re about to face.

Beauty Treatment

One of the most loved, and yet most hated, features of autumn is the change in colouration of the trees, the rich golden and amber hues that are not only synonymous with autumn -they are exclusive to it, and while we revel in the beauty of this demise, it is not without cost. The leaves of course will fall and spread everywhere so it is essential that you first of all cover any bodies of water within the garden, as a settled layer of leaves can choke the ecosystem of oxygen and light, whilst also turning the water itself stagnant. Decaying leaves on lawns and flowers beds can also cause what’s underneath to die and harbour slugs and snails.

Whet their appetites

As ludicrous a proposition as a lack of rain in October in Britain might sound, it will be a very realistic hindrance should it happen, and as the proverb goes ‘Hope for peace, plan for war.’ A good way of hedging your bets, without hiking up the water bill, is to use grey water collection methods such as rain barrels to provide free, sustainable resources to the garden. Autumn is a good time to get these measures in place, so that, should we face the drought we did last spring, you won’t be fighting with every other British gardener to get hold of a water butt!

Long arm of the lawn

Autumn weeding of your lawn is a two-pronged approach as first of all, it saves you from performing one of gardening’s most tedious tasks in cold and wet weather where you might be less meticulous. Secondly, if you plan to use chemicals rather than physical labour, then you need to do so immediately in order to give the space three weeks to purge said chemicals before reseeding. You don’t want to be re-seeding too late in the season.

Cost effective cleaning

Several of the tasks we’ve included here have centred around maintenance or cleaning of one type or another and as such, the final labour we’d recommend is construction or purchase of a composting bin so that you might make use of all the detritus you’ll inevitably collect during your chores which could prove immeasurably useful in the months to come.

By Josh Ellison

With the imminent autumn decline of our own gardens, it’s good to find other sites worth both the time and petrol to visit for their autumnal colouring. Those of us without our own gardens in particular may wish to take in the hues and sounds of September and October, but may be reduced only to the local parks, which may lack the peace and quiet of your idea of a woodland walk. So, with this in mind, I’ve compiled a list of five gardens for you to visit during the autumn, the majority of which will be situated within the UK, however, due to the logistical constraints inherent in commuting from London to Northumberland for the sake of a simple daytrip, there’s also an entrant from our near neighbour, France.

Pensthorpe, Norfolk

Sporting one of the largest meadow gardens in the British Isles and alongside one of the most successful contained ecosystems (thanks in large part to the meadow gardens), Pensthorpe should definitely be in your sights for a visit this autumn. It is suited to all members of the family, with natural wilderness walks for children to partake in and a huge wildlife garden that is open year round with varying fauna, depending on when you visit.  You can find Pensthorpe in Fakenham, central Norfolk.

Westonbirt, Gloucestershire

Westonbirt is particularly famous for the beauty of its grounds in autumn, and their website talks with pride about some 2000 Maples on their ground, 300 of which are Japanese in origin, which are particularly favoured among the maple family for their autumn colouration. Other autumnal favourites at Westonbirt include the Persian Ironwood and the Chinese Spindle that are some of the earliest ‘turners’ in Northern Europe. This shortlist also includes the Katsura, which is world famous for the rich scents it produces around this time of year.

Sheffield Park and Garden, East Sussex

The landscape of this site is by far the most diverse on our list. Sporting waterfalls, vast expanses of meadow grass, lakes and hills, it is as much a place of adventure as it is of relaxation. The gardens have free guided tours as late as November which will include an unbridled view of the gardens, some 265 acres of stunning scenery and tourist venues, such as the Coach House tea room.

Exbury Gardens, The New Forest

This addition is one more that is family-centric and specifically for the younger members as, aside from its natural majesty, Exbury Gardens offers a wide array of different activities for visitors of all ages. The expansive, 200-acre site is world-renowned for its (unparalleled on our shores) gigantic collection of Rhododendrons, Camellias and rare species of trees and shrubs. Look beyond this and you’ll notice The Steam Railway that connects all the gardens major landmarks and promises both efficiency and industry to your trip.

Jardin du Mont des Recollets, Cassell, Northern France

One of the single most beautifully named gardens I’ve ever come across, the ‘Garden upon the Mount of Recollection’ is aptly named, as its design evokes the gardens of idyllic country youth. Littered here and there with varying examples of master topiary and formal structure, without even delving into the beautiful estate buildings that enround it, it is one of the only year-round visitors gardens in the region, and only a short ferry away for those interested, which I hope will be you.

By Josh Ellison

Not so long ago we released a piece concerning the best perennials bred for their autumn flowers, but there are plenty of shrubs in bloom now too. Below you’ll find our selection, cherry picked (excuse the pun) from a pool of hundreds, for your viewing pleasure.

Abelia grandiflora

The enticingly named ‘Sunshine Daydream’ is a rounded, evergreen shrub with shiny, ovate leaves of a green hue blushed with crimson. Its fragrant, tubular flowers will show in white and pink, the latter of which will deepen with age.  Expect a max height and spread of around 1.2m.

Arbutus unedo

The ‘Rubra’ variety of Arbutus is one of my all round favourite flowering shrubs, purely for the consistent colour that its very assets will show in different seasons of the year i.e. the attractive leathery foliage that it bears year round is complemented in the autumn by rose-pink flowers and then in the winter by similarly coloured fruits. Will eventually reach a height and spread of up to 8ms.

Camellia sasanqua

Sharing names with a great villain of literature, the ‘Crimson King’ could not be further in personality from its nom de plume: it will bear large, vibrant blooms with five petalled flowers showing in bright pink with yellow stamen. This specimen will reach a maximum height of 6m and half that in spreading range.

Ceratostigma willmottianum

This triple whammy of colour is an obvious contender for your soil space, showing alternately green and red foliage in summer and autumn and vibrant, deep blue flowers throughout both. Most varieties of Ceratostigma have a height and spread of around 1m and 1.5m respectively.

Fatsia japonica

The ‘Japanese Aralia’ is a large, bushy evergreen with an open, spreading habit that will host a mess of bold, glossy, dark green leaves complimented by the candelabra-like heads of small white flowers it produces in the autumn, and then its black fruits.  This shrub has an ultimate height and spread of around 4m.

Fuchsia magellanica

The ‘Versicolour’ variety of this cultivar is a hardy deciduous shrub producing slim, tubular flowers in hot pink. They will reach an ultimate spread of 2m and a height of 3ms.

Hebe ‘Autumn Glory’

The ‘Autumn Glory’ is a small evergreen shrub with rounded foliage to match its growth habit, whose edges are blushed purple in correspondence with its lavender-like flowers that grow in bushy spikes.  This is one of our smaller autumn shrubs with terminal height and spread of only 60cms.

Hibiscus syriacus

The ‘Blue Chiffon’ is almost reminiscent of paper flowers rather than their organic counterparts, with its pale, frilled petals and their delightfully folded double centres. Within 5-10 years this plant should reach a mature height and spread of 3m and 2m respectively.

Hypericum ‘Hidcote’

‘St. John’s Wort’ has been one of the most frequently revisited species in these articles and with good reason, with its bright yellow flowers and encircling orange stamen, not to mention the striking red fruit it bears in the autumn. Reaches a matching height and spread of about 1.5m

Romneya coulteri

The California Tree Poppy is not dissimilar in shape to our native Poppy, however, they do differ in their colouration and habit. The American born variant’s petals are white rather than red, but let’s face it, the last colour you need more of in autumn is red! It ha a max height of 1.5m and a spread of 2.5m.

By Josh Ellison

With the onset of autumn and winter come a great many things, among these are the marvellous bronzing of the trees, the promise of crackling fires and a night scorched by fireworks, however, in horticultural circles it also means something else - the RHS autumn show at Malvern.

The Malvern exhibition this year has adopted a decidedly culinary theme, with events like ‘The Good Life Pavilion’ hosting a two day appearance from master chef Jean-Christophe Novelli, who’ll be imparting tips, recipes and general cookery wisdom throughout.

However, the cuisine doesn’t end there as there will also be a ‘bake-off’ dedicated to the theme of the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee.  The Landscaping Live team will also be onsite to answer your questions concerning the most efficient culinary use of your gardens, and also potential ingredients that the British gardener-come-cook might grow themself.

This idea, though, is actually better realised in the revolutionary ‘Edible Show Gardens’ that have been introduced to Malvern, with an eye as much to agriculture as to horticulture. These edible show gardens are as varied in concept as in content. With the ‘Food Gallery’ we are first enclosed by drain pipes to evoke the corridor architecture of the standard art gallery, then we are presented with a series of herbs on plinths, natural flooring formed from salad leaves and living picture frames. 

Other designs include the ‘A-la Mode Dining’ garden, which is fairly self-explanatory, and the ‘Dig for Victory’ project, which is inspired by the war fought by gardeners across the nation during WW2 to ensure that the country would not go hungry.

It is conceptual spaces like these that really drum home the themes of this year’s Autumn Show as outlined by the society - ‘A celebration of food, gardening and nostalgia’, and you’d be remiss not to experience it for yourself if you can - the show runs on the 29th and 30th of September.

By Josh Ellison

Following up on our previous blog, we bring you now the remaining six species to be enjoyed monthly from July to December. The beauty of these six in particular is that their planting season occurs throughout the spring and summer months when your children will be most inclined to outdoor activities.

It also gives them further investment in their own education and constructive hobbies away from the monopoly of the school ground, a kind of positive of deceit, wherein they will begin to associate learning with, first of all their loved ones, and secondarily the fun that can entail.

Ranunculus asiaticus (July)

The ‘Persian Buttercup’ has eye-catching, semi-double flowers in a variety of colours, and attractive, deeply divided foliage. It should be planted in March – April, but it should be noted that they can be a little tender and, unless you live somewhere very mild, you should lift the tubers in October and store them in dry sand. The sap these plants produce can also be irritable to the skin.

Tigridia pavonia (August)

The Tiger flower is far and away my favourite specimen we’ve put forward, a riot of variegated whites, reds, oranges and yellows from petals edge to stamens core - made all the more vibrant by the August sun to which it so well responds. Again, it can be a bit tender so lift at the end of the season and plant them out in April.

Acidanthera bi-color murielae (September)

Another tender corm, but which will show upright, fragrant, white flowers, possessed of five petals and a gorgeous purple interior - a summer bloomer that prefers a sheltered location. Again, plant them out in April.

Nerine bowdenii (October)

A robust, hardy and unusually shaped flower with spidery, deep pink flowers on its leafless, erect stems throughout the autumn months. It should be planted in April – May and needs a sheltered, sunny site.

Colchicum autumnale (November)

The ‘Autumn Crocus’ will bear canoe-shaped pink petals around an upright yellow stamen, forming a wine-glass shaped flower, however, do remember, it is highly toxic and for this reason any child planting it should be well supervised. Plant them out July – August in sun or light shade.

Cyclamen coum (December)

Known commonly as the ‘Eastern Cyclamen’ this is one of the hardiest and long-lived flowering bulbs we could recommend, forming carpets of pink, white or purple flowers over heart-shaped leaves from the beginning of winter to the end of spring. They should be planted from July – September in partial shade, so naturalising under trees look particularly good.

This concludes our year’s worth of bulbous distractions for you and your children, however, the key to the success of such a project is not the initial planting and interest, but the continuation. Like an adult, a child must be rewarded for their work to continue being motivated by it, so make sure that, as soon as these flowers come into bloom you show the young gardeners and praise them for their dedication and success, and soon it will be they asking you to help out in the garden!

By Josh Ellison

Long before we began these blogs, I would hope that it was a clear and obvious thing that the involvement of our children in gardening is imperative to both their current and future wellbeing. The benefits of a tangible relationship with the natural world, especially one established at a young age, have been written of exhaustively and can be a little overwhelming, but that’s not what this piece hopes to achieve. Instead it is aimed at providing a simple way of involving your children and hopefully making the whole task seem less daunting.

Bulbs are a good start as they’re simple to plant, simple to remember and varied enough that you and your children can enjoy seeing at least one a month in flower together in order to impress upon them the continual aspect of gardening and make it easy for them to see the results of their work.

So this article, and its successor, will outline a bulb for each month of the year. We are all familiar with Snowdrops and Daffodils, but we’ve chosen some slightly more unusual species you might like to try.

Eranthis hyemalis (January)

The ‘Winter Aconite’ is appropriately named and its buttery yellow carpets of flowers provide a cheerful picture in the grey winter months. Planting time is August – September.

Chionodoxa luciliae (February)

This is a low-growing flower with a star-like appearance in both shape and colouration. What’s more, they’re incredibly hardy and thus require little maintenance once flowering has begun in early spring. Plant in September, in sun or light shade.

Erythronium dens-canis (March)

This genus is commonly referred to as the ‘Dog Tooth Violet’ due to the shape of its tubers and will produce lance-shaped, pale pink flowers over mottled foliage throughout middle March. They should be planted August – October.

Trillium grandiflorum (April)

A variety of Lily, somewhat more diminutive to those you would ordinarily associate with the name, which will bear small groups of three-petalled, white flowers all the way up to June. They’re a little fussy, requiring well drained, humus-rich soil in partial shade, but if you can provide such a woodland setting, plant them between August and September.

Leucojum aestivum (May)

Despite its common name ‘Summer Snowflake’, this is a decidedly spring time bloomer, bearing hanging, bell-shaped flowers in milky white, a bit like a tall Snowdrop, against green, lanced foliage. Planting time is August to September.

Allium giganteum (June)

The ‘Giant Allium’, which is actually a member of the onion family, produces spectacular spheres of tiny purple blooms, which themselves have a star shape to their petals. As their name suggests, they are large, reaching up to 1.2ms tall. Plant them in full sun from now until October.

All of the above can be planted now and, as a general rule, bulbs should be planted in a hole that is two or three times deeper than the width of the bulb, but do follow the instructions on the pack.

So, take your pick, or have a go with all of them!

By Josh Ellison

With the summer now becoming a point of reflection in our minds, it has become apparent that one of the major complaints - aside from the indifferent weather – has been that of hay fever, which seemingly even more so than in previous years, has been particularly acute. Having several friends and family members who are afflicted by this nuisance, I’d like to focus on suggestions for potential defences against it, in preparation for next year’s bout.

Autumn appears the perfect time to make these suggestions, as it is during this period that the planning stages of next year’s garden generally take place, and more specifically the selection of which plants will be grown and sown. It is no mystery that some genus are more antagonistic to those suffering from hay fever and so we will focus here on species that are least likely to exacerbate the itchy eyes and runny noses, with which the suffering has become associated.

As it happens we’re not original in this intent - why only this year at the Chelsea Flower Show there was an entrant whose primary design feature was its accommodation of hay fever. The designer in question, Olivia Kirk of KKE Architects, suggests one of the major proponents of hay fever is the presence of air-dispersed pollen:

"If it's wind pollinated, the pollen is designed to be buoyant and it stays in the air a lot longer, but with insect-pollinated flowers, when the insect has done its job, the pollen is heavy and falls to the ground."

In response to this, Kirk suggested the use of Irises and Peonies, whose pollination is reliant on insect intervention and as such can still provide a garden with colour and character, without offending the fevered. Of course, the insect rule is not universal - in particularly high winds the pollen is still liable to irritate and as such it is recommended you favour close-cupped flowers, which literally require the infiltration of insects to extract the pollen and will thus be less affected by the passive powers of wind.

Another of Kirk’s rules of thumb was the avoidance of grasses wherever possible, as these are known for producing some of the most allergenic pollens, and their increased propagation made possible by this summer’s erratic weather has contributed to the lengthy hay fever season we’ve experienced.

However, many of us favour a more varied planting style than simple flowering plants and so it’s important to note that, while insect pollinated trees and shrubs are few and far between, they do exist. The important distinction to make is between trees that are primarily foliage-based and those that flower, as these flowers are a signal to potential pollinators, whereas foliage based trees are majorly populated by seed pods produced to be dispersed by the wind.

There are also a variety of crop plants, many of which can be grown on a domestic scale, solely pollinated by bees, whose presence provides a double benefit, in that you’ll also be supporting this essential cog in our ecosystem. These include, but are by no means limited to, Okra, Celery, Cauliflower, Coriander, Quince, Fennel and Strawberries.

Good ornamental plants to use include Amelanchier, Hebe, Choisya, Hydrangea, Roses and Lavender, whereas ones to avoid would be Birch, Oak, Lime and Sweet Chestnut

As a general rule daisy-type flowers such as Chrysanthemums, Sunflowers and Asters should also be avoided.

Finally, perhaps the most simple and universal piece of advice I can impart, is to stick to the females of any species you select if available, and particularly in the case of flowering plants, as it is very rarely that the female of a genus will produce the pollen necessary for procreation.

Hopefully this list, and the subsequent action it should encourage, will ensure you can enjoy your garden in some modicum of relaxation come next spring – safe in the knowledge that, if the weather holds, your eyes should remain decidedly dry.

By Josh Ellison

It is easy during the year’s penultimate season to become entranced with the bronzes and ambers and crimsons with which this period has become associated. The better known colours of autumn will always be the foliage, which is unfortunately, so short lived and as a result it is common practice to often overlook the potential for flowering species. Below you’ll find ten perennial flowers to bring colour to you through late summer to early autumn.

Floral & Hardy’s Top Ten Autumn-Flowering Perennials:

Aconitum wilsonii ‘Barker’s Variety’

This is a tall variety of ‘Monkshood’ which has something of the appearance of a late delphinium. The plant’s foliage is a rich green and in late summer the hooded blue flowers appear. As with the common varieties you should take great care to avoid ingestion and contact with the skin where possible as this genus is highly toxic. Monkshoods prefer a moisture retentive, partially shaded position.

Actea matsumurae ‘White Pearl’

A tall, clump forming herbaceous perennial, the White Pearl is so named for the clusters of snowy blooms it bears along its stems which themselves are set against small, pinnate foliage. It will grow quite well in shade.

Anemone hybrida ‘Konigin Charlotte’

This is another shade tolerant flower whose tough, fibrous root stocks will ensure protection against all but the worst conditions. Their flowers are generally five petalled and disc-shaped, appearing in soft pink with yellow stamens.

Aster novi-belgii ‘Marie Ballard’

Marie Ballard has a pale violet, double, daisy-like flower and a rounded, bushy habit. It needs full sun and well-drained soil to thrive.

Centranthus ruber ‘Coccineus’

Commonly and somewhat misleadingly referred to as the ‘Red Valerian’, this bright pink flower will form clumps of tiny of petals atop long grey-green stems and continue its colour well into October. It’s another plant for a sunny position, but it will grow in any well-drained soil and often self-seed quite freely.

Liriope muscari ‘Big Blue’

The flowers of ‘Big Blue’ are quite reminiscent of the look of common Lavender with pillars of purple flowers lining its stems, but its grassy foliage is quite different. It will grow in sun or shade, but doesn’t really like a chalky soil.

Phlox paniculata ‘Harlequin’

The Harlequin’s etymology can be attributed to its lightly variegated foliage that could be said to resemble the diamond patterns of this classical figure’s costume. This aside it is also has beautiful purple flowers that will redden with the passage of summer. It doesn’t mind sun or a little shade, but it does need a moisture retentive soil.

Schizostylis coccinea ‘Major’

This is a vigorous, semi-evergreen with lance-shaped, grassy, pale green foliage and rose red, six petalled flowers. It is clump-forming and ideally suited to middle of the border planting, but it can be a bit fussy, requiring well-drained but moisture retentive soil. It will also need a protective mulch in winter.

Sedum spectabile ‘Autumn Joy’

A fleshy-leaved plant, Autumn Joy bears flat heads of masses of tiny salmon-pink flowers, turning rusty brown as they age. They are pretty tough plants and the butterflies love them, just give them sun and well-drained soil.

Solidago hybrida ‘Golden Wings’

The common name for these is ‘Golden Rod’ and they are popular garden plants for their tall stems of feathery, plume-like golden yellow flowers late in the season. They will thrive in either sun or light shade.

By Josh Ellison

This piece was written in regards to, not only the visitors of the Olympic Park, but also as a gesture of gratitude to all those who worked and volunteered in order to make this wonderful experience possible. It also speaks volumes about the success of the grounds that its workforce were so diverse and gleeful a group - consider this a thank you note to those responsible for said glee.

Let me begin at the beginning - admittedly I was slightly disconcerted on arrival by the presence of the armed forces/metropolitan police in such great numbers and (wrongly) expected a good deal of pen pushing and a ‘no diving around the pool’ attitude. I couldn’t have been more mistaken and was thrilled to have my pre-conceptions shattered by the courteous and efficient manner in which they conducted both themselves and us.

Next we were, as a people, addressed by brightly dressed umpires who from their thrones wished nice days and good times, intermittently to the throngs as they passed, welcoming responses and conversation from child and adult alike and, considering they’d been perched for several hours in blistering heat and flak jackets, their high spirits were a welcome surprise.

Having now entered the park proper, our care had fallen over to the stewards whose charge it was to ensure everyone’s well-being and of course the well-being of the gardens themselves - one was quick to direct me back to the path once I’d wandered from the beaten track in hopes of attaining some exclusive photographs. 

This occurred whilst we were enjoying the sights of The Great British Garden, a section of the park overseen by a group of British Primary and Secondary schools designed specifically to engage younger visitors in a variety of games and sporting activities. One of the more sentimental aspects of the GBG was the presence of their messages wall, wherein people were able to leave a miniature review of the garden and their good wishes for the athletes - literally a wall of praise for such a wonderful event.

Now of course the Park could have the greatest service team in the world, but it’d be in vain without the people filling it - people like Jonathan the Jester and his partners in crime from the Table Top Circus, who spent the afternoon beguiling onlookers and proving the Olympians were not the only ones capable of feats of agility and skill. The trio’s performance ranged from juggling whilst stood atop a beach ball, to synchronised unicycling. 

There were other performers too, ranging from brass bands to singing groups and even some guys mimicking a miniature tube train with umbrellas – ‘mind the doors please!’

Finally we have the crowds themselves – us - the onlookers.  I’ve been to a few music festivals and once or twice to various theme parks and that is the atmosphere most akin to what I saw in Stratford - unbridled frivolity and fun. Had your television broken the month before you might not have realised this was the seat of the world’s greatest athletes, but merely an extremely successful summer fete - maybe with an added RHS project, looking at the gardens.

In closing, whether you like sports or not you owe it to yourself to visit the Olympic Park when it reopens next year. The place stands alone from the Olympic event itself, much like the Mona Lisa does from the Louvre, and having seen both I’ll take the sunshine and jugglers any day.

By Josh Ellison

One day Floral & Hardy’s top designer, Helen Ellison and I were lucky enough to visit the Olympic Park in Stratford that, despite the passing of the main Olympic events, was electric with excitement, frivolity and anticipation in the wake of the Paralympics and amid the splendour of the site itself.

My initial reaction was, in a word, awestruck. However, this barely does justice to the massive achievement and marvellous legacy that the Olympic park truly represents and so, having had a few days to digest what I saw, I’d now like to highlight my favourite aspects of the park and gardens.

Upon entering the site from Stratford City we were first guided through a series of security check points - the courteous efficiency was pleasantly surprising, given that we were part of a crowd up to 250,000 strong.  Then we were greeted by the sight of the stadium itself that, most recognisable from the night-borne opening ceremonies, loses none of its majesty in daylight. 

However, we were there in the name of horticulture not athletics, and so we set our sights first on the Olympic Park Walk which features the continentally planted gardens mentioned in our previous article on the subject. We had a mixed response to this area of the park because, although they were among the most deliberately planned areas, many of the more exotic cultivars had suffered greatly in sweltering days leading up to our visit and their age had begun to show.

On the other hand, there were many plants that had not yet begun to wilt and these more than compensated for their short-lived counterparts. We particularly liked the way the soft prairie-style plantings contrasted with the strong structures of the buildings

- the Orbit for example.

Amid the horticultural areas of the park there were also several rather innovative art installations and one of these served as the midway point to the Olympic Park walk - beneath the Stratford walk bridge fell sheets of water whose spouts were designed in such a way that the liquid intermittently spelt out words that related to the project – brilliant! 

From the World Gardens we headed next to more familiar climes – ‘The Great British Garden’, and this title is in no way hyperbolic as the area in question played host to not only some fine horticulture, but also to the country’s youth by sporting children’s activities and miniature sporting challenges, which we’ll into go greater depth on in part two: The People of Olympia. 

The British Garden was also my favourite example of the use of water within the parks design, sporting as it did a naturalistic pond to observe from the shaded paths that ran throughout.

We also spent some time in the ‘Wetlands Walk’ area of the park, however, this aspect of the Olympic Park will be included among its other ecological elements in Part Three: The Olympic Legacy - watch this space!

By Josh Ellison

When planting trees, it’s all too easy to consider their foliage as the star of their aesthetic, however, we’d do well not to forget the plethora of flowering trees capable of thriving in British gardens and, in light of that, we’ve prepared a compilation of our personal favourites - that is, trees and large shrubs that provide distraction not only with their size and shade, but the presence of their blooms as well.

Floral & Hardy’s Top Ten Flowering Trees

Cercis ‘Forest Pansy’

The Cercis can be considered a large shrub or small tree, growing to ultimate heights of up to 12m. It is possessed of beautiful deep purple, heart-shaped foliage and dark pink flowers throughout the spring on bare branches.

Crataegus ‘Paul’s Scarlet’

This deciduous tree is perhaps better known as Hawthorn and is another spring time bloomer, bearing bright pink blossoms from early February to early May complemented by glossy, lobed foliage that itself will continue into mid-summer.

Davidia involucrata

Davidia is a mid-sized cultivar of deciduous trees with red-stemmed, arrow-shaped leaves and sporting dark green flowers during the spring season complete with striking white bracts, giving it its common name of ‘Handkerchief Tree’.

Koelreuteria paniculata

The ‘Pride of India’ is an upright, deciduous tree with a rounded growth habit bearing green leaves that are reddish at first, and then will fade into yellow as the year progresses. This latter colouration matches that of its panicles of golden flowers that appear in summer as well.

Laburnum watereri ‘Vossii’

‘Voss’s Laburnum’ is one of the smaller trees in our collection, popular for its drooping racemes of golden flowers in late spring and rich green foliage; be aware however that its seed pods can be highly toxic.

Magnolia soulangiana ‘Lennei’

The ‘Lennei’ is a large shrub or small tree with vigorous growth rate, but while its size will immediately arrest your attention, it is the beautiful purple goblets that will hold it and the blooms are themselves complemented by broad-leaved, emerald foliage.

Magnolia grandiflora ‘Exmouth’

This is not the ‘Exmouth’s’ first appearance in our blog and for good reason, as it is one of the most classical representations of the magnolia genus and also an evergreen meaning that you get much more longevity for your time and money. It also, rather unusually, flowers in the summer months with large, fragrant, creamy flowers.

Malus ‘John Downie’

This mid-sized crab apple tree will provide a wealth of rich green foliage and white, spring-time flowers. Once these have gone, it will produce large amber fruits throughout autumn.

Paulownia tomentosa

Commonly referred to as the ‘Foxglove Tree’, the Paulownia derives its name from the purple flowers it produces, however, while they share a likeness to the smaller plant, thankfully they share none of its toxicity. These are large trees with broad, palm-shaped foliage that you can expect to grow to heights of 12m or more.

Prunus ‘Pandora’

The ‘Pandora’ is a species of ornamental Cherry Tree that will grow to heights of 5m. It is a deciduous tree with good autumn colour, but also bearing pinkish-white flowers during the spring and whose open branches will arc outward from the trunk.

This concludes our review of ten flowering trees, but the key things to remember when planting ornamental trees are variety and preparation - as with any canvas it is important that there is a selection of colours to complement one another. However, each of these cultivars is a large project in itself and their projected dimensions as well as feeding requirements must be taken into account to ensure that every aspect of your canvas is fully realised.

By Josh Ellison

Since 2010 and aside from granting us the longest day of the year, the summer solstice has held a new meaning for the gardeners, as it marks the beginning of the nominees process for the Gardening Against the Odds awards, which recognise horticulturalists who, despite incredible opposition and difficulty, have striven to pursue the practice of gardening, both for their own pleasure and also for the future enjoyment of others.

Of course, the tragic beauty of this competition is that hardship comes in innumerable different forms, but what it does mean is that more or less anyone opposed, in whatever way, in their gardening can qualify. Previous entrants have varied from the physically disadvantaged, to those in dire financial straits and, perhaps most heroically, at least within their field, those who’ve deliberately worked against an unforgiving environment or inhospitable surroundings to ecological ends.

The project is run by the Conservation Foundation in conjunction with the Telegraph and began as a form of remembrance for Elspeth Thompson - a prominent writer of horticulture who herself battled depression for most of her life. Last year’s winners were Sherborne Allotments, who are situated in Essex and who transformed two derelict plots into community growth areas, with the help of sufferers of Huntington’s Disease.

Previous winners have also included military veterans who created a communal garden at their barracks, and a garden for the elderly in North Wales, salvaged from what was previously a derelict rubble yard.

The judging panel changes each year - the project is now in its third year - and is generally composed of a ‘who’s who’ of horticultural, ecological and conservationist personalities. This year’s panel includes director of the Chelsea Fringe, Tim Richardson, conservationist David Bellamy and designer Bunny Guinness.

So, if you know of someone who is gardening against all odds and deserves some recognition, you can still nominate them at the RHS website, but get in quick because nominations close on 17th September.

By Josh Ellison

Completing our two-parter on house plants, this week we’ve selected a dream team of house dwellers based mainly on the texture, colour and exoticism of their foliage.

Floral & Hardy’s Top Five Foliage Houseplants:

Parlour Palm (Chamaedorea elegans)

A wonderful plant that is favoured for its manageable size and growth rate, but also for its elegant good looks - the easiest comparison would be to call it ‘the bonsai palm tree’. Suitable for pot growth where you can expect it eventually to reach heights of over two metres, it’s easy to look after in virtually any room in the house, and being an evergreen also makes this palm a sound investment for year round decoration.

Iron Cross Begonia (Begonia masoniana)

The Iron Cross Begonia is a broad-leaved evergreen perennial with a low, bushy habit. The foliage itself is dappled and, in texture, lightly rough to the touch. The emerald green leaves will show deep purple markings with a tendency toward cross patterning. It does also have the bonus of flowering with tall stems of scented, creamy flowers, but is mainly grown for its striking foliage. Grow in good light, but not direct sunlight.

Wandering Jew (Tradescantia zebrina)

The story goes that this little beauty is named, due to its rapidly spreading nature in its native lands, after a Jew who has been alive since the crucifixion of Christ - left wandering the earth incessantly until Jesus’ return! Whatever its origin, due to its vine-like growth, it is best suited to guided growing i.e. through canes or even over furniture - a friend of mine made a beautiful installation of the plant using an old wicker clothes airer! They also look good left to trail down from hanging baskets. In any case, it’s a beautiful, easy to grow specimen with complimentary green, silver and purple variegated leaves that grow, overlapping one another, in the hundreds.

Purple Passion (Gynura aurantiaca)

Formerly known as the Purple Velvet plant, this cultivar will bear lush bunches of glossy green leaves which will cultivate a layer of incandescent indigo hairs on their surface, giving a startling furry appearance. In time the soft stems will branch outward and sit well on a hanging basket - making them ideal for porch or conservatory where they’ll be assured the light they need to coax their orange flowers into bloom. Keep the hairy leaves clean using a soft paintbrush and cut them back a bit when the leaves start to lose their colour to encourage new growth.

Swedish Ivy (Plectranthus verticillatus)

In my opinion I’ve saved the best till last with this plant, whose foliage has such a staggered growth cycle that a matured and vital plant can appear to have a variety of different leaf shapes and textures, where in fact they are merely at different stages of maturity. These will cascade downward in an overlapping fashion with the promise of spikes of tiny white and lavender flowers in the summer. Despite its name, it originates in the Southern Hemisphere and only became known as Swedish Ivy as this was the country that first popularised it as a houseplant. The leaves also have a distinctive scent when touched.

This concludes our roster of champion, easy to grow houseplants and we hope you find it useful, although you probably have many favourites of your own. Remember, however, that houseplants are like any other plant, you only get from them what you put into them,  and ensure you follow the basics of house planting like indirect sunlight, judicious watering and plenty of pot space.

By Josh Ellison

A recurring theme of our articles has been the cultivation of plants for particular conditions i.e. the amount of sunlight or exposure they’re suited to, the depth or content of their soil foundation or the amount of moisture they require to survive. This week we’re covering one of the most difficult combinations of growing conditions that a plant can suffer - that of dry, shady, sloping banks.

Here are our top ten:

Ajuga reptans

Otherwise known as ‘Bugle’, this creeping perennial, reaching a maximum of 10-15cms tall, has varying hues in its foliage which can range anywhere between red, cream, green, purple and pink and being an evergreen, it will alternate between these colours over the course of the year. It also bears blue flowers from May to August.

Asperula odorata

This vigorous, matt-forming perennial, otherwise known as ‘Sweet Woodruff’ will bear whorls of pale green, lance-shaped leaves like little parasols and clusters of small, white, fragrant flowers throughout late spring and early summer. The dried foliage also has a musty scent reminiscent of hay and has been used to flavour wines!

Asplenium scolopendrium

The ‘Hart’s Tongue Fern’ is an evergreen cultivar that will form rosettes of arching, leathery, bright green fronds with undulating margins. It will grow to about 60cms tall and requires very little attention.

Epimedium versicolor

The ‘Bishops Hat’ is named for the shape of its small, clustered flowers in various colours which appear in the springtime on the wiry stems of this clump-forming plant. Being an evergreen, the heart-shaped foliage of this plant will maintain its rusty colouration throughout all seasons.

Geranium phaeum

Answering to the exotic handle of ‘Dusky Cranesbill’, but also more soberly as ‘The Mourning Widow’, this Geranium is known by its tall upright, deep purple-black flower stems in early summer and clump-forming foliage which is also sometimes blotched with purple.

Hedera helix

This small-leafed ivy is a wide-spreading, self-clinging vine which has dark green leaves which can turn velvety black as the weather grows colder. It is also available in yellow and variegated varieties to brighten up dull, dark areas.

Hosta

Hostas are clump-forming perennials known mainly for their stunning, large, broadly heart-shaped leaves of green, yellow, blue or variegated. There are many different varieties, but they are all summer bloomers bearing white, lavender or purple, bell-shaped flowers from July to early September.

Mahonia aquifolium

The ‘Oregon Grape’ is available in many different varieties, one of the best of which is the ‘Apollo’ cultivar. It’s a low-growing, evergreen shrub that bears glossy, dark green, holly-like leaves year-round with accompanying bright yellow flower clusters in spring.

Pachysandra terminalis

The ‘Japanese Spurge’ is another spreading low grower and as such is suited perfectly to the poor soil that usually inhabits banks. It has serrated, dark green leaves, sometimes variegated, and clusters of tiny white flowers. Due to its habits, this cultivar is perfect for growth beneath tree canopies, but don’t attempt to grow it if you have chalky soil.

Vinca minor

Vinca minor, or ‘Periwinkle’, is a mat-forming, evergreen perennial and with its gorgeous aesthetic, a combination of emerald green, or variegated foliage and bright blue flowers all summer long, it’s a very useful ground cover plant. If you have an enormous area to cover, go for its more rampant cousin, Vinca major.

By Josh Ellison

What makes the perfect house-guest? One who doesn’t leave a mess, doesn’t make a huge racket in the middle of the night and always brings wine? Well, I’ve yet to find an alcoholic Gardenia but on the other two counts, a beautiful houseplant delivers like no person can and, alongside these characteristics, they go a long way to brightening the place up.

So, I’ve compiled two lists, the first of which you’ll find here, outlining a few of what we think are the best indoor plants. The initial five have been selected based on the quality of their flowering, while the subsequent follow up will focus on plants whose foliage is what sets them apart.

Floral & Hardy’s Top Five Flowering Houseplants:

Orchids

Probably the most obvious entry to the running and foremost among houseplants for their longevity and beauty, Orchids are the single largest group of plants in the world boasting over 30,000 original species and a countless number of hybrids which, due to their popularity, is growing all the time. In fact you’d be hard pressed to find a major flower show or exhibition that didn’t feature a variety of Orchid as one of its major successes.

Unfortunately, there is a reason the Orchid is so popular among the professionals, as it can take near-professional expertise and commitment to ensure that they grow healthily and maintain a decent life span, but if you satisfy its requirements for good light (but not direct sunlight) and moisture at the right time, it will give you flowers over many months. One of the major killers of house variety Orchids is over watering, due to their prominent root structure it can be difficult to gauge the water level in the soil by eye, and my advice is that if it is moist to the touch then watering is not yet required.

Hibiscus rosa sinensis

Hibiscus have developed a world-renowned association with the exotic cultures of the tropics, and particularly for their function in Hawaiian traditional Rei’s (the flowered necklaces worn by hula dancers), but this can also mean that potential growers in colder climes do so with some difficulty. There are hardy Hibiscus shrubs we can grow in the UK in the garden, but as a tropical plant the Hibiscus rosa sinensis can be highly temperamental, requiring consistent heat, light and humidity to grow healthily whilst also being susceptible to a variety of insect damage. 

However, with every cloud there is a silver petal, the Hibiscus is also one of the most eclectic flowers on earth - available in single or double forms and in practically any colouring you can imagine, some of the more renowned hybrids feature multiple colourations on a single petal! So if you have the moxy to force this beauty into being, rest assured your hard work will be repaid. Grow it on a warm window sill but don’t let any draughts near it and place the pot on a tray of gravel which is kept watered to provide humidity. Water it regularly and keep the soil moist, but don’t let it stand in water for any length of time.

Bromeliad

This species of flowering plant may be more familiar to us as the common pineapple which happens to be one of this cultivar’s many varieties. The Bromeliad is also oft referred to as the ‘Urn Plant’ due to the cupped shape that its rosettes assume. The long, strapped leaves will grow up to eighteen inches tall and will enclose the tall, intertwined stems of the colourful central blooms, and the spiked foliage itself will take on a leathery, dark green appearance. 

Unfortunately, due to their exotic appearance, the Bromeliads had for a long time earned a reputation for difficult cultivation, however, contrary to this belief, they can be easily adapted to indoor temperate environments. Just give them a bright window sill in a warm room, although not in direct sunlight, and water only when the soil surface feels dry. Spray the leaves daily with tepid water as they absorb moisture through their foliage. Sadly, the plants will die once they have flowered, but each flower last many months and the plant will also produce offsets which can be potted up to form new plants.

African Violets

The African Violet is among the most popular flowering house plant in the UK, partly due to its varied and attractive appearance, but also due to the nature of their growth pattern. They are a compact and free flowering plant and because of this, and with due diligence, it is possible to encourage multiple blooming periods per season. In fact, with mastery of this plant’s needs, it is not unheard of for them to be able maintain continuous flowering, and they’re not just ‘violet’ either – they come in a range of beautiful colours. 

They just need a little sunlight each day, so an East or West facing windowsill is best, and prefer to be a little cooler than some of the others on our list so don’t put them above a radiator. Take care when watering not to wet the leaves or flowers as this will cause rot and only water when the soil is dry – more African Violets die from over watering than anything else. If you can use rainwater then so much the better, as they really don’t like hard tap water. Pinch out the faded flowers and it will keep flowering for you forever!

Amaryllis

Amaryllis, and more specifically Amaryllis belladonna, is a flowering bulb native to South Africa whose tall stems will bear large, vibrant, almost over-the-top flowers and will perform equally well either in a summer flower bed, or potted for indoors, hence its inclusion here. Commonly bought as Christmas presents, their flowers are extremely long lived, typically blooming from winter to early summer and showing predominantly in the red side of the colour spectrum - everything from white to pink to scarlet, and many of them bi-coloured. 

Many people just throw them away after the flowers die, but the marvellous feature of this plant is that once its first flowering season has ended the bulbs can be recycled, providing you with flowers for the next year. When each flower fades simply remove it from the stem and, when they’ve all gone, cut the stem down to a couple of inches above the bulb. Put the pot outside for the summer, keep watering it as you would any other plant and, in autumn, before the first frosts, take off the leaves, bring the pots in and put them somewhere in the dark for about six weeks and don’t water them. This will force the plant into a dormant state. After this time bring them out onto a sunny windowsill and the growth cycle will start all over again!

By Josh Ellison

Now that we’ve reached the midway point of London’s Olympic/Paralympic frenzy, we’ve been reflecting on the lasting effect that the games have, and will have, on our capital and our country, more specifically in an ecological and horticultural sense. Of course, the greatest difference the games have made in this respect is the construction, maintenance and continued existence of the Olympic Park meadow gardens which, among sites like Wisley and Tatton Park, constitutes one of the largest green projects in British history – even more amazing given the Stratford site was a toxic wasteland before they started!

In light of this, it seems somewhat askew that those directly responsible for this magnificent achievement remain fairly in-the-dark in terms of recognition, despite the fact that this single aspect of London 2012 has been the labour of love for thousands of people for over two years. This piece is for them, for their hard work and innovation and, most of all, dedication to what has been, at least in public terms, a largely thankless endeavour.

The Olympic Park’s head gardener is Des Smith who, for our purposes, is the face of a huge collective responsible for the gardens. He has stated that the plant choices of the garden were based around international unity and by this he means that each section of the garden was planted based on the endemic cultivars of each of the five continents to participate in the games, jokingly admitting that even he was unfamiliar with some of the species suggested by the Professors at Sheffield university who compiled the plant lists, and saying that ‘We’ve all had a steep learning curve.’

Arch of Inspiration - Great British Garden

Asia Garden

European Garden

Great British Garden

Southern Hemisphere Garden

Swales and Rain Garden

One of the greatest challenges for the maintenance team, however, has been the ‘out of sight, out of mind’ position that, much like high end caterers for example, their labourers had to adopt - meaning the vast majority of maintenance had to be carried out under cover of darkness, so as not to disrupt the games themselves.  For example, there have been curious images of gardeners mowing the lawns in the middle of the night.

The site was not without its perks though. The proximity of local landmarks such as the Thames estuary meant that the designers could incorporate icons exclusive to London amid the garden itself.

Smith has confessed, somewhat wistfully, that the project will stay with him, in that:

“Going away, and working on another site… it’s gonna be a bit of a comedown for myself and quite a lot of the guys…. because we put so much of ourselves into it.”

The project shows a true masterpiece in scale and detail, culture and beauty, and we, at Floral & Hardy, want to thank all those involved in the project, for both a wonderful legacy for future generations, and for the inspiration that only such a grand scheme can provide.

There are also annual meadow gardens and areas of wetland too and the best news is, once the temporary buildings and huge concourses are removed these wilder areas will be extensively enlarged, so, when the gardens re-open in July next year as the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, if you didn’t manage to get tickets to this year’s sporting events, you’ll be able to see them then.

By Josh Ellison

Hydrangeas are among the most popular garden shrubs, known for the soft colour palette of their large blooms and their late flowering in the season when many others have already gone over. The most commonly known species of course are the ‘mophead’ varieties, with their football-like pink or blue heads of many tiny flowers, which have contributed largely to the family’s popularity, especially with their adaptability to varying soil types and levels of available sunlight.

But there are others, so see our list below:

H. arborescens ‘Annabelle’

‘Annabelle’ is a medium-sized, deciduous shrub with a lax, bushy habit and a very gradual growth rate - expect it to reach full maturity within 10-20 years. It has pale green foliage and wonderful, large heads of pale green flowers turning pure white as they age.

H. aspera sargentiana

Aspera is slightly larger than Annabelle and will bear large velvety leaves, peeling bark and purple or blue ‘lacecap’ type flowers with white outer florets throughout summer and autumn.

H. involucrata hortensis

Hortensis is one of the more diminutive varieties on our roster with a terminal height of only a metre, however, what it lacks in size it compensates for in looks - sprouting bushels of tiny lavender flowers laid over broad emerald foliage.

H. macrophylla ‘Geoffrey Chadburn’

‘Geoffrey Chadburn’ is a medium-sized, deciduous shrub with a wide-spreading habit and large, broad leaves with gorgeous deep pink, ‘lace-cap’ blooms.

H. paniculata ‘Vanille Fraise’

This variety of Hydrangea is a large, upright and vigorous, deciduous cultivar, with narrow, ovate foliage, which in summer will be offset nicely by its coned clusters of bright pink and cream flowers that will both persist from mid summer to mid-autumn.

H. quercifolia ‘Snow Queen’

It’s no wonder why this variety has this name, as this deciduous cultivar sports tall pillars of many small, white, lobed flowers. Quercifolia also has one of the most dynamic colour palettes among Hydrangeas within its blooms, ranging between pale pinks and browns as well as the titular white depending on season. It also has large, bright green oak-like leaves which turn bright corals and reds in autumn.

H. serrata ‘Blue Bird’

Another hydrangea with good autumn colour, the Blue Bird is a medium-sized, deciduous shrub whose mid-green leaves turn to a maroon russet when autumn arrives and whose lacy flower caps will deepen from a pale to navy blue as the year progresses.

When discussing Hydrangea cultivation, the value of judicious soil care is worth mentioning, as the ph. level of the flowers’ environment can drastically affect the colouration of the blooms themselves. A good rule of thumb would be that an acidic soil would equate to blue spectrum flowers, while the further alkaline you go, the further into the pink you get. So, with a little cunning, and the addition of either ericaceous compost (acid) or lime (alkaline), you can manipulate your entire collection to suit the palette of your garden!

There is a warning to be attached to these plants, however. If ingested they can cause mild stomach upset, and their foliage can aggravate skin conditions, so, as with many garden plants, care should always be taken.

By Josh Ellison

The RHS has recently scaled a full alert for gardeners concerning the arrival of a militant and dangerous new pest in the UK, the Blue Mint Beetle, or Chrysolina coerulans, that have been confirmed as breeding in the British Isles since 2011. This confirmation was reached thanks to the joint efforts of both the Society’s entomology department and in particular, an anonymous gardener based in Kent who provided their specimens. However, due to the isolated nature of this incident, the RHS is keen to investigate whether it might be a containable invasion, or a graver cause for concern.

The insect’s name is derived from its primary source of food, cultivators of which have already suffered massive losses across mainland Europe. The principal scientist on plant health, Andrew Halstead had this to say:

“At the moment our control suggestions are the same for both our native green mint beetle and the new incomer… If the infestation is more extensive then it may be necessary to apply a pesticide. An organic insecticide, pyrethrum, can be used on mint to control pests… However, it may not be effective to control the adults and so other insecticides, such as deltamethrin or lambda-cyhalothrin, may have to be considered.”

Therefore, the RHS’ request is as follows: be vigilant for unusually frequent signs of beetle damage and bear in mind that our native Green Mint Beetle is generally focused on wild mint and so shouldn’t affect garden varieties too greatly. These symptoms include holey foliage and obviously the beetles themselves which come in a pearlescent, metallic navy blue-similar in size to the native species - and if possible you should document live specimens through either photography or sending packages containing the live samples to the RHS Advisory Service in Wisley.

By Josh Ellison

You’ll remember not so long ago our releasing a periodical on the most effective means of building a rockery: content, structure and time frame, etc. Well, this week we thought we’d give you a list of plants best suited to such a garden, based obviously upon their hardiness, beauty and other regular criteria in these top tens of ours. Most, as you would expect, will prefer a sunny, free-draining site.

So without further ado let’s find out more about this group of rockers.

Floral & Hardy’s Top Ten Rockery Plants:

Armeria maritima (Thrift)

Commonly seen near the sea, as its other common name of ‘Sea Pink’ would suggest,  Armeria is a compact evergreen whose foliage will form tufts of pale green grass and during early summer it will also bear clusters of globed, pink flowers on long, slender stems.

Campanula poscharskyana (Bellflower)

The ‘Stella’ variety of Campanula is an evergreen perennial whose cascading habit makes it an excellent ground cover plant. Its foliage is a combination of stringy stems and tooth-edged leaves, that flow between its lavender, star-shaped flowers, which appear all summer long.

Cerastium (Snow-in-summer)

This is a spreading, evergreen perennial with sheets of silvery foliage, while its flowering contingent will litter said silver with clusters of small, white blooms with notched petals that will show from spring to autumn. Beware it rampant habits though and keep it in check – useful to cover large dry banks though.

Gentiana acaulis (Gentian)

Another evergreen perennial, however, the Gentian is a mat-forming perennial that will sprout pairs of narrow, elliptic leaves and singular deep purple, or deep blue flowers whose shape is reminiscent of a gramophone’s spout! Grow it if you’ve got limy (alkaline) soil.

Leontopodium (Edelweiss)

This flower may be more familiar to the grandparents and music lovers among you for its common name ‘Edelweiss’, and this herbaceous perennial bears terminal clusters of  greyish-white, daisy-like flowers on furry stems and rosemary-like foliage.

Lithodora (Gromwell)

Lithodora are my personal favourite in this collection due to their masses of beautiful, deep blue flowers in summer, crown shaped with golden stamen as its jewel.

Oxalis adenophylla (Oxalis)

Oxalis adenophylla is another mat-forming perennial. You can count on the grey-green foliage of this plant to spread up to one metre, although it does die down in winter. Foliage aside, the Oxalis also provides beautiful, shiny, white flowers with pink veining and edging in early summer.

Pulsatilla vulgaris (Pasque Flower)

The common Pulsatilla flowers in late spring, sprouting from a fur-dappled singular bud on a long, upright stem. Its purple petals form large inverted tear drops opening to stars, surrounding deep yellow stamens. It also has attractive ferny foliage and the flowers are followed by silky seed heads.

Saxifraga apiculata (Saxifrage)

This ‘cushion’ variety of Saxifrage forms a small mound of star shaped panicles encircling short but slender stems, these will be tipped with small, daisy-like, yellow flowers during the spring, while the rosettes of foliage last all year round.

Sempervivum tectorum (Houseleek)

Sempervivum, and more specifically the tectorum cultivar, are also rosette-forming plants, whose succulent, evergreen foliage appears in combined russet and emerald green. These rosettes will also bear small rosy-purple flowers on thick stems in the summer.

By Josh Ellison

The headlines have been alight this last couple of weeks with theoretical advances in the production, form and content of our future diets. Due largely to the overpopulation caused by the industrial revolution, the planet is becoming rapidly less equipped to sustain human consumption; of course, we don’t need the BBC to tell us this - the dwindling of fossil fuels has been one of the major ecological concerns for over a quarter of century.

While we have a variety of fairly evident, albeit expensive and time-consuming alternatives to this problem, there are no immediate solutions to the potentially disastrous food shortage that future generations could face. Reports indicate that in the next decade we could see certain meats and produce double in price due to increasing demand.

Therefore, any credible research or method that could help supplement this shortfall is considered the modern elixir and in response to this several institutes have begun the pursuit of the carnivores grail - synthesised tissue, or ‘plastic’ meat. However, due to the relatively early stages of research into lab-raised meat, and the controversy surrounding the practice’s primary science - stem cell growth - we may not see this wonder hit domestic supermarkets until a few more legislations have been passed.

So what else then? Insects have been named as one of our major hopes for the future, although this only really applies as an innovation to westerners, whose generations of squeamishness have bred contempt for protein that wriggles, despite the fact that, gram for gram, the average caterpillar contains ten times more iron than mincemeat. 

In the more exotic regions of the world grasshoppers, fried ants and even wasps are already an established delicacy - they are cheaper to raise, consume less water and also have a much smaller carbon footprint. There are over 1,400 insects that are edible to man in the world, so we should be able to find something we like!

Others still are suggesting algae and seaweed, of which there are over 10,000 species, as potential food stuffs for our children’s children. One of the great advantages as a crop is that it grows in the sea and therefore doesn’t take up valuable land or fresh water.

Whatever we settle on, there is no doubt that in the future we will all have to rethink our diets as meat becomes less viable as an option.

Maybe the contribution from Fat Duck proprietor Heston Blumenthal, who is famed for his scientific and wildly experimental culinary approach, will help these new foods seem more palatable. His idea comes in the form of sonically enhanced food, although mainly with the aim of reducing the need for extra ingredients such as salt. There is evidence to suggest that the tone of the sounds you hear whilst eating can affect the sweet and savoury elements of the meal and as such, eliminate the need for additional ingredients. His restaurant apparently has a dish called ‘Sounds of the Sea’ which is served up with an iPod playing just that, which is supposed to make the food taste much fresher.

Such tricking of the mind could of course have beneficial implications for health if sounds could be sweet enough to render added sugar unnecessary! The importance of sound in food has already been recognised by a certain crisp manufacturer, who changed the material it used for its packets because a crunchier packet, psychologically, makes the crisps taste fresher. You yourself might consider tailoring the playlist to suit the food you’ll be serving at your own table and save yourself some seasoning!

Granted the main impetus of this piece is not an original one, but is as always, to encourage you to grow your own food wherever possible - rear your own livestock even, if you have the space. Not only will you be getting fresher food, but it also looks as though it would be considerably cheaper!

By Josh Ellison

Whilst, in my opinion, flowers always look best growing in the garden, there is no greater joy than to bring their colour and scent into the house, to fill your rooms with their vibrancy and fragrance. Some plants are better suited to this purpose than others and there is little point in picking flowers, only for them to wilt and die within a few hours. So, we’ve compiled a list of flowers that you can grow in your own gardens and that will last well in water, to give you pleasure for many days.

Floral & Hardy’s Top Ten Plants for Flower Arranging:

Alstroemeria

The ‘Peruvian Lily’ is an exotic and beautiful addition to any garden, but also to any flower arrangement as it bears lily-like blooms in many different colours. Its beauty aside, the Peruvian Lilly is also a hardy plant if given fertile, sandy soil and a sunny, sheltered spot.

Catananche

Catananche, or ‘Cupid’s Dart’, as it is commonly known, is an upright perennial whose foliage appears as a clump of grey-blue grass and is accompanied by papery, pale blue flowers with deep blue stamens, appearing from attractive, silvery buds. They can also be dried for winter decoration. For growing, they need well-drained soil and plenty of sun.

Dianthus caryophyllus

The ‘Border Carnation’ has tufts of grassy, grey-green, year round foliage and fragrant, summer time blooms which come in as ‘selfs’ (single colours), fancies (two or more colours) and ‘picotees’ (generally pale coloured with darker centres). They prefer an alkaline soil content and exposure to full sunlight, but due to their tall flowers, they are susceptible to high winds, so may need some support.

Echinops

The ‘Globe Thistle’ is a clump-forming, herbaceous plant with grey-green, thistle-like leaves and dozens of deep blue, globular flower heads sprouting from long, slender stems - themselves appearing a pale lavender colour. They can also be dried for winter flower arrangements and to grow, they prefer a well-drained soil and sunny position.

Eremerus

Also known as the ‘Foxtail Lily’, this herbaceous plant will form very tall columns of vibrant yellow, orange, cream or pink flowers. They need well-drained soil and full sunlight, preferably under the shelter of a south, or west-facing wall, but they do also need plenty of water. Winter protection with a mulch is a good idea too to protect them from frost.

Leucanthemum

The white, daisy-like flowers with yellow centres are borne on tall stems which are good for cutting, and single and double varieties are available. The plants are highly robust and can be suited to more or less any garden, but the taller varieties do benefit from staking.

Limonium latifolium

‘Sea Lavender’, or ‘Statice’, is one of the most common cutting flowers due to its lightness and the relief afforded by its pale colouring to the more intense tones in a bouquet. A half-dozen sprigs of these flowers can do wonders to complement the palette. It’s easy to grow and will thrive in the poorest of stony soils provided it’s in full sun.

Physalis franchetii

The ‘Winter Cherry’ or ‘Chinese lantern’ is a perennial with vigorous growth habits, but the flowers themselves would not win any prizes. It gets its common name from the shape and colouration of the papery orange/red structures which form a droplet shape around its fruits. For winter flower arrangements, you should cut them in September and hang them upside down to dry. It will grow almost anywhere in the garden and children find them fascinating too!

Pyrethrum roseum

This is a richly coloured variety of the Chrysanthemum family and is perhaps most famous for being the major natural source for leading brands of insecticide, thus, I suppose, improving its hardiness against insects. It has red or pink, daisy-like flowers above attractive feathery foliage and it will bloom in early summer. Give it well-drained soil in full sun.

Rudbeckia

All Rudbeckias are praised as cutting flowers, however, none more so than the ’Herbstsonne’ variety which is favoured for its full hardiness and high, branching stems that provide an appropriate pedestal for the plants beautiful yellow blooms. They also bloom late in the year when many other flowers have finished. Any reasonable soil is fine and it will thrive in sun or light shade.

By Josh Ellison

This summer has been a little bit of a drag for all involved - what with the awful weather we’ve suffered and, in and around London at least, the intense focus on the Olympics throughout the capital and the subsequent dampening effect this has had on our travel plans and commuting. However, in the face of all this, the determined parent can still hope to provide some distraction to their little ones in the shape of the RHS’ more family oriented gardens, which are growing all the time. 

Although there are many such sites all over the country, we want to focus on four in particular; they are Harlow Carr in North Yorkshire, Hyde Hall of Essex, Rosemoor which is situated in Devon and Wisley in Surrey. Our justification for these choices is based on two factors, the first being that they are the most family friendly, with every one of them complemented by changing facilities and nearly universal pushchair access, the second that they are situated in popular destinations for caravanning and other family oriented holidays, making them convenient possibilities for an all-day outing.

At Harlow Carr 

the major attraction will be the seasonal adventure trails you can traverse and which alternate, depending whether you visit in the summer, winter, spring or autumn - guaranteeing that you never experience the same adventure twice! Harlow Carr also hosts one of the most interactive wildlife experiences in the UK. Though not big on scale it will deliver on intimacy, with an observation beehive, various bird feeding stations and a private lake teeming with ducks. HC also houses one of the larger commercial tree houses in England that is complemented by its own log maze and the promise of a battle with ‘The Log-ness Monster’!

Second we have Hyde Hall, 

which provides one of the more relaxed family experiences - think less Indiana Jones and more Mary Poppins - with dedicated outdoor meadows for picnickers and I-spy themed trails and quiz sheets designed for a more educational journey.

Rosemoor 

is probably the most diverse garden among those we’ve mentioned, at least in terms of those it can cater to. As a semi-wild site, Rosemoor supports both woodland expanses and more tame garden trails and spectator spots. As the people there will tell you, it is ‘The Brash’ that this year has become the unofficial star of Rosemoor. It has been described as ‘a natural hideaway… for all ages to enjoy’ and its bird feeding stations, giant insect life and natural pathways have carved it a reputation based on fun and learning. Similar to Harlow Carr, Rosemoor also sports seasonal adventure trails which, once completed in the free children’s trail entry book, will make the Adventurer eligible for a prize from the onsite shop.

Wisley, 

as many other RHS gardens, will play host to the aptly titled ‘Great Garden Adventure’, that is an annual RHS endorsed gathering of families and society members focused on the interaction between children and nature. This year’s GGA promises sports day-esque events such as skittles, bean bag relays and the newly coined ‘fir cone in a spoon race’. On the nature oriented side of things, Wisley also sports a Garden Safari Trail that promises bird watching, den building and a variety of animals to sight. Also during the GGA period, which has been running from the 21st July and will continue until the 31st of August, there will be daily seminars exploring the various continental cultures of the earth through arts and crafts activities. Each continent will be designated a specific week beginning with Europe’s storytelling and paper craft groups.

Sounds exciting eh?

By Josh Ellison

One of the major horticultural news stories in the last couple of weeks has been the horticultural success of young Lucas Hatch, aged only 11, who has been officially announced as the RHS’ Young School Gardener of the Year. Hatch, who hails from Woodbridge, Suffolk, battled to victory by winning over the judges with a superior knowledge of gardening technique and history as well as an unparalleled enthusiasm for the practice.

 The sixteen finalists, from whom Lucas emerged victorious, were chosen through a preliminary judging panel headed by the students’ teachers, and each of these finalists’ schools was awarded a digital camcorder to commemorate their participation through interviews of the contestants and of those affiliated with the project. It was from these ‘shorts’ that a final winner was selected, based on their range of knowledge and genuine enthusiasm for the craft, Lucas won based on these criteria, and also on his dedication to his school’s garden which he maintains throughout the summer holidays.

However, the title of RHS Young School Gardener of the Year 2012 was not Lucas’ only prize for his effort; he will also be awarded the privilege of a day’s tutelage at an RHS garden with a Society endorsed gardener. On top of that, the Hatch family will receive the choice of complimentary tickets to the RHS Flower Show at Tatton Park or to RHS Hampton Court Palace Flower Show 2013 and a full collection of gardening equipment. Aside from the benefits to the Hatch’s themselves, Lucas’ school will also be granted five hundred pounds worth of garden gift vouchers, as will the schools of the other finalists, alongside their own tool sets.

RHS member Jacky Chave, who also serves as the societies Strategic Schools Manager had this to say:

'The RHS is delighted for Lucas and the runners-up – congratulations to you all, but we’d also like to thank all the teachers for sending in nominations. There are so many fantastically able and keen young gardeners out there and I’m already looking forward to next year’s competition.'

The initiative, which forms a part of the RHS’ School Gardening Campaign, is based on various psychological and practical case studies that have indicated the positive effects of gardening and its affiliated topics on children. The practical application speaks for itself, as it guarantees regular and consistent exposure to nature and the outdoors in an increasingly technology-driven environment; it also helps children to develop the primary instincts of sustainability and also of the connection between nature and produce.

A little while ago we wrote a piece covering the disconnect from nature between this and the next generations of children and that outdoor activities have taken a back seat to instant means of gratification such as video games and television. Several years ago the RHS, possibly in response to this phenomenon, began the School Gardening Campaign as a means of encouraging interaction with the natural world and also to educate children in horticulture and there’s no reason you can’t get involved, be it on a communal, regional or just a personal scale. Find a starter kit and application at the RHS website - I promise you won’t be disappointed.

By Josh Ellison

Following our initial list of five of the most common and destructive garden diseases, we now have numbers six to ten,  their most recognizable symptoms, which plants they are most likely to affect and how to prevent their damage and spread to other cultivars. Remember however, that the greatest defence against disease related decay is vigilance and consistent maintenance; no matter how conspicuous the symptoms are they can only be seen if you are there regularly to see, and subsequently treat them.

Fire Blight

One of the most unpleasant afflictions discussed here, Fire blight fortunately only affects a select few of the Rosaceae family, such as Apples, Pears, flowering Quince (Chaenomeles), June Berry (Amelanchier) and Firethorn (Pyracantha), but those it does affect will certainly feel it. The disease is known to wilt and kill the flowers of these plants at the beginning of summer which luckily makes it very easy to notice. In wet weather these plants may exude a thin, milky substance from wounds cause by the affliction, in the case of plum, pear and apple trees the outer bark will appear a tawny brown as the infection rots in the inner bark while it spreads. Ironically, one of the most effective methods for controlling Fire blight is fire itself, trim affected limbs and burn immediately to prevent spreading.

Honey Fungus

Honey Fungus is a subterranean fungus that works by attacking the root systems of many woody and perennial plants; it will then proceed to decay the wood and bark of these species themselves. The most evident signs of HF affliction is the presence of unusually small or pale foliage, cracking or bleeding of the bark and white fungal growth near the base of the plant, and as can be expected, once the fungus has taken control of the plant’s root system you will notice the death of upper sections of the plant - particularly in hot and dry weather. Plants predominantly susceptible to Honey Fungus include Acers, Birches, Ceanothus, Hydrangeas, Lilacs and Rhododendrons. Unfortunately there is no chemical control for this devastating disease and the only option is to dig the plant up, making sure you remove all the roots, and dispose of it.

Apple Canker

As its name would suggest, this affliction is present mainly in species of apple trees, although it has been known to spread to Yew and Oak cultivars. The primary symptom of Canker is the disfiguration that will be evident in the growth, structure and outer bark of the affected plants, causing the branch above the canker to eventually die. Fruits might also rot and fall. This affliction is more prevalent in plants that are grown in heavy, wet soils, so make sure your trees have effective drainage, acidic soils have also been linked to a greater frequency of Cankers, so liming might be necessary. Affected branches should be removed back to healthy green wood and the cut painted with a protective wound paint (available from any garden centre).

Botrytis

Botrytis cinerea is more famously known for the symptomatic fuzzy grey mould that it produces in affected plants. This mould is only seen on plants in a humid environment and while we get plenty of rain in England we aren’t famous for humidity, apart from perhaps in a greenhouse where you might see it. The dry version of this symptom will be collections of brown spots on the leaves of plants from the Chrysanthemum, Primula and Cyclamen families. Flowers and buds will shrivel and die and soft fruits such as Strawberries, Gooseberries and Grapes can also be affected. The way to avoid it is to make sure that plants are not overcrowded, that greenhouses are properly ventilated and that any dead leaves, buds or flowers are removed promptly.

Potato and Tomato Blight

It should be fairly evident which plants are most vulnerable to this fungal infection and therefore those of you not interested in vegetable growing need not read further, however those of you with a vegetable patch should be vigilant for brown patches in the stems and leaves of your veg. 

Also watch the fruit of tomato plants, unripe tomatoes will turn prematurely brown while ripe fruit will decay far more rapidly than is normal. Any affected material should be removed and burned, rather than composted, to prevent spread. Earthing up potatoes can help prevent it, as can planting early varieties, which seem less susceptible. Operating a four-yearly rotation in your veg beds to generally help prevent disease.

By Josh Ellison

This editorial will mark our first report on the Hyde Hall Flower Show, held at the RHS’ garden in Essex. Here various medal winners and competitors from the major London shows i.e. Chelsea and Hampton Court are given a chance to test their products and share their knowledge on a smaller scale having been proven in the big leagues. However, Hyde Hall should not be mistaken for a small scale Chelsea - on the contrary it hosts one of the largest horticultural estates in the country, clocking in at over 360 acres, and this area doesn’t even include the show itself!

Despite the scale of this project, it is still rooted in the personality and the heritage of Essex without becoming exclusive to those visiting from further afield. While Hyde Hall includes all the staple additions of any RHS show (exhibitions, commercial stands and seminars), its individuality stems from its respect for the surrounding community.

For example, the show has arranged the attendance of Essex radio show host Ken Crowther for an informal Q&A between gardeners and gardening enthusiasts. Ken will also be aided by a patron of Essex University, Tom Cole, and by Geoff Hodge - a freelance authority on all things horticultural. These sessions will go on throughout the day today.

Now as with every Flower Show there are certain perks available to members of the society, among these at Hyde Hall there is the option of a ‘Flower Show Preview Breakfast’ whose ticket tastes and smells like a lot of the normal early access ticket, however this one includes a guided tour of the gardens outside the show as well as the premium parking, full English breakfast and early entry of the non-members ticket and all at two pounds cheaper!

Among the copious number of stands and exhibitors are a fair cross section of medalists from some of the larger shows, including nurseries such as Devine Nurseries, Bentley Plants, Oska Copperfield Nursery Ltd and Jacques Amand International, and trade stands representing companies like Darlac Ltd, Hutchinsons landscapes, The New Eden Ltd and The Green Trading Company.

These companies will of course be paying and displaying for the entirety of the show which itself is running from 3rd - 5th August and also includes a prize draw for those interested in the more philanthropic functions of the RHS, with potential rewards to include £50 worth of RHS vouchers -apply at the RHS stand within the show.

These attractions aside, there is of course the added benefit of escaping the Olympic frenzy of the city centre for a couple of days not to mention the fact that, like the majority of RHS flower shows, children under 16 are granted free admission. So whether it’s for the family’s sake or for your own, take advantage of Hyde Hall Flower Show while it’s here.

By Josh Ellison

The majority of us are familiar with at least some aspects of English history and one of the topics our teachers, mine at least, seemed to love instilling was the Tudor period and particularly the reign of Henry the Eighth, whose marital frequency has become an almost blackly comical subject among history students across the country. However, what many of us may be unfamiliar with is the legacy of this period, and the heritage it has afforded us today. Fine examples of such heritage are the various castles and country estates that exist as a result of these figures in history and I was fortunate enough to visit one of them, Hever Castle, a couple of weeks ago, and to enjoy not only the magnificent house, but also the magnificent grounds they keep there.

However, the gardens whose praises I wish to sing are only a recent addition to this microcosm of English history, having been commissioned and built between 1904 - 1908 surrounding the 13th century manor house-come-castle. Hever, the manor house, began as the seat of the Bullen family, later known as Boleyn, and not only was the home of Ann Boleyn, Henry’s second wife, but also was subsequently to serve as a form of dower for the later queens of Henry VIII, being used by Anne of Cleves, following the death of its former mistress in 1536.

The design of Hever’s gardens and grounds is immediately arresting for its formality and the blatant influence it has taken from the popular court gardens of the renaissance and romantic era, and one of its most impressive areas is the aptly named Italian Garden, which was commissioned by the then owner, William Waldorf Astor, as a kind of outdoor gallery for his vast collection of Italian sculptures. There is also within this space a tranquil sunken garden with pond and colourful planting.

In truth, the garden was designed with an eye toward the future and its 125 acres are only now coming to full maturity. New areas are also being opened up to the public, including a fun water maze for children on Sixteen Acre Island.

For a more direct look into the past, however, one can enjoy the Ann Boleyn walk which, after passing through the stunning Rhododendron garden, will give you a literal picture gallery of plants from the late Queen’s era – many being hundreds of years old. The gloriously scented walled Rose garden houses over 4,000 different species of the eponymous flower and, walking through the stunning Loggia with all its overhanging climbing plants, one could almost imagine courting couples of the time taking the air together (a vision made easier by the fact that there was by chance a jousting tournament on that day with many people in period costume!)

However, for me, the crowning glory of Hever’s outdoors lie at the end of this call-back to Italian heritage, a huge 38 acre lake which, when I visited at least, was complete with a jetty and series of row boats for tourists to enjoy the full grandeur of the waters and the sheer scale of the grounds as a whole.

It really is an opus of a project when one considers that all the grounds there pre-twentieth century were little more than a large bog, glorified only by those who’d already died long ago. Unfortunately, due to the adverse weather we’ve been having, I was unable to visit the famous garden mazes of Hever, which had been degraded in the wind and the rain and thus needed some preservation from the wears of human contact. Maybe next time.

In closing, Hever is indeed a font of English heritage but also a marvellously ambitious show garden in its own right, and anyone with a serious interest in large scale horticulture would do well to pay it a visit.

By Josh Ellison

Due to their exoticism and beauty, Clematis have garnered a reputation primarily as a summer plant but with adequate planning and variety you can plant a garden of healthy, beautiful climbers whose staggered blooming ensure flowers for every season. For your consideration there is below a list of appropriately eclectic Clematis varieties that combined could, someday, form just such a tapestry.

Clematis cirrhosa ‘Freckles’

To commence the shortlist we have a cultivar that, being an evergreen, will provide background colouring even when it is itself not in bloom. However, during its flowering season ‘Freckles’ will show broad palmated petals whose centres, though rimmed in a pale yellow, are doused in deep plum speckles. An unusual flower as it holds greatest colour from deep winter to early spring.

Clematis armandii ‘Snowdrift’

One of the fragrant additions to our list, Snowdrift will bear pure white, star-shaped flowers in early spring and its arrow-head leaves, themselves emerald green and glossy, are evergreen and borne year round.

Clematis alpina ‘Francis Rivis’

Blooming in vivid blue with white stamens, this deciduous late spring flower compensates with beauty for what it lacks in longevity. Francis Rivis is a past winner of the RHS’ Award of Garden Merit, the award being based on its durability in a variety of soils and ability to adapt to different climates. Its flowers are followed by silky seed-heads too.

Clematis montana ‘Rubens’

A smart investment for the long-term garden, the monatana Rubens clematis is favoured for its vigorous growth rate and vanilla fragrance - a particularly pleasant characteristic in late spring to early summer whose scent will be accentuated by warmer weather. The flowers are soft pink and the young foliage has a bronzy tint.

Clematis ‘Vyvyan Pennell’

Although self-clinging, ‘Vyvyan Pennell’ is a relatively delicate plant due to its very large, double violet blooms in early summer, which can be quite heavy, and as such it is recommended that they be situated in a sheltered position. However, due care will be rewarded with a second flush of flowers later in the year.

Clematis ‘Etoile Violette’

‘Etoile Violette’ has, as the name suggests masses of small star-shaped, violet flowers from July through to September, but it has a much greater capacity for size - nearly two metres beyond the reach of Pennell.

Clematis texenensis ‘Gravetye Beauty’

The ‘Gravetye Beauty’ is aptly named for its striking, but unusually shaped blooms which may be more familiar to lily and tulip lovers. They will assume a reddish-brown colouring with cream coloured stamens and you can expect these flowers in late summer and throughout autumn - aiding your palette with further autumnal colouring.

Clematis orientalis ‘Bill MacKenzie’

‘Bill MacKenzie’ is arguably the most vibrant clematis on our list, with vivid yellow flowers whose petals droop in downward over deep red anthers and it maintains both with full colouring from early summer to late autumn.

Clematis terniflora

Commonly referred to as the ‘Sweet Autumn Clematis’, terniflora is possessed of a vigorous growth rate and semi-evergreen foliage. Accompanying this greenery, terniflora will also show an abundance of star-shaped, star-coloured flowers, appearing white with occasional silver banding throughout summer and autumn.

Clematis rehderiana

This species of clematis has late arriving flowers that will appear in autumn, as its foliage begins to wane. The blooms themselves are akin to blue bells in their form and buttercups in colour, whilst being accompanied by a sweet fragrance.

While you consider these options for your clematis garden, remember that timing is paramount to the success of a year-round flowering garden and don’t disregard the work load that will come with a garden whose active seasons are not staggered.

These warnings aside-good luck to you and we hope this list has been helpful!

By Josh Ellison

Any gardener looks forward to the promise of beautiful flowers and shapely lawns, but all too often these can be spoilt by diseases, fungal or infectious. So we’ve prepared a ‘most wanted’ roster of some of the most commonly occurring, and also of the fastest degrading afflictions that can affect your ecosystem. Having read this and next week’s article, you’ll be able to identify and (hopefully) treat these ailments before they’ve a chance to permanently damage your plants.

Powdery Mildew

Powdery Mildew is a fungal affliction which can affect a myriad of garden-variety plants including vegetables and flowering species, it basically consists of a fungal film that spreads across the leaves, stems and other foliage of the plant. Fortunately, however, the ‘dew comes in a variety of different types and while one might devastate your tomato crops, the same strain will have no effect on your cabbages or delphiniums. The most recognisable symptom of this affliction is the titular powder that will surface all parts of the plant and as such one of the most effective control methods is simply to isolate the foliage and remove it from the plant.

Rose Blackspot

The Black Spot, as much feared by rose gardeners as it was by pirates, is another fungal disease which causes initial discolouration and finally wilt and death in the foliage of most English roses however, floribundas and some species of climbers are known to be most susceptible. Unfortunately the disease is very diverse and thus able to rise to the challenge of chemical control as such, the best method is remove the affected foliage and destroy it.

Rust

Rust is one of the most common-place diseases that gardeners must combat due in large part to its genetic diversity, a variety of different strains means that this fungus is able to adapt to a large collection of hosts i.e. allium, bluebell, chrysanthemum, hollyhock, poplar and roses. As the name would suggest, rust fungi occur in the form of orange-brown cysts that degrade the structure of the plant; there are several fungicides available developed to combat this very eventuality.

Clematis Wilt

Given that another of our other editorials this week is centred on the cultivation of Clematis, it is prudent that we include one of its nemeses here so that you might spot and treat before it has a chance to lay tracks.  CW is a fungal infection whose severity largely depends on the species of your Clematis; the large flowered climbers tend to be the most susceptible while the smaller, earth-bound species, and the spring and autumn flowering climbing types are known for their resilience. When looking for Clematis wilt the most obvious will be the black discolouration it causes in the leaves and stems of the cultivar. Unfortunately there are no quick-fix chemical control options, protection comes during the planning stages by ensuring that the plant is planted deeply (about 15cms lower than the soil level in the pot) and that the soil is well mulched.

Box Blight

Box Blight is associated, as the name suggests, with Buxus topiary  and hedging plants and its most common symptom comes in the form of brown and eventually bare patches amid the foliage. The most effective treatment is, unfortunately, to remove the plant altogether in order to prevent it spreading to other plants.

Next week’s column will include another list of common garden diseases and potential buffers for them, in the meantime have a thorough examination of your own plants and make sure they don’t suffer from any of those mentioned here.

By Josh Ellison

At last a turn in the weather, but in spite of all the complaining about the previously atrocious ‘summer’ weather, at least we haven’t, as a species, felt particularly threatened - unless we had been planning an imminent barbeque or even a summer wedding!

Britain’s wildlife however, not including rain-lovers like our snails and slugs, is unable to make the same claim. After what has been proclaimed as the wettest April-June period in recorded history, it has entered the news that several of our native birds and mammals are suffering a significant drop in numbers. One of the most affected cases has been the report of a community of Puffins drowning in their burrows due to underground flooding, and we’ve spoken previously about the threat that such torrential rain poses to the breeding capacities of insects, such as moths and butterflies, that rely on dry areas to lay their eggs.

The wind has played havoc as well on the propagation of certain garden variety birds, as well as their sea-bound counterparts - gales have forced gulls and other such species from their cliff-side shelters while their commonplace relatives have been hard-pressed to find food for their young with the wind constantly scattering it about the place. A whole season’s generation of Terns is under threat in Northern Ireland, due to their parents inability to keep them warm against such an onslaught of weather.

Alongside these, there have also been negative affects on England’s amphibious population. You see, the extremely dry weather at the beginning of this year encouraged breeding on a mass scale for our domestic Frogs and Toads, however the sudden and uncharacteristic onset of rainy weather has produced environments too cold for their young to survive and thus all the good work in January has been undone.

However, amid all this destruction there have been some positive side-effects, namely in our endemic flora, with the National Trust generating stories of green areas now teeming with nettles, brambles and bracken. 

Though these spurts in growth and propagation have not only been limited to ground cover plants - there have been reports of mosses and flowering plants, such as the Gentian and Bee Orchids and, in an isolated case, Bedfordshire is showing swaths of Pyramidal and Common Spotted Orchids along the Downs. 

Although, it also has to be said that the enormous amount of rainfall has also led to the oppression of many of our beloved summer flowers, particularly those more susceptible to adverse conditions, but despite this Poppies have been able not only to cope, but to thrive.

However, the National Trust’s conservation adviser has warned that those species that have benefited from the wet weather are grossly outweighed by those who’ve been set back and that we may face the extinction of some of our native species, butterflies specifically, were it to continue.

He went on to say that without a turn in the weather, and thus some sustained sunlight, we could have been facing a huge loss in the numbers of many of our beneficial insects such as ladybirds, butterflies and honey bees. Good job the sun’s come out at last!

By Josh Ellison

Continuing our weekly editorial on the various soil conditions to which shrubs are suited, this piece is devoted to the care, cultivation and establishment of shrubs in predominantly alkaline soil content. Soils of this nature are generally described as chalky, although they can vary considerably from stony and shallow, to clay-like. The only way to tell is by doing a soil test. Alkaline soils will be PH7.1 or above.

Floral & Hardy’s Top Ten Shrubs for Alkaline Soils:

Arbutus unedo

While slow growing, this unusual, large, evergreen shrub will show an abundance of leathery, dark green foliage accompanied in autumn by both the flowers and, at the same time, edible, but sadly flavourless, strawberry-like fruits. No pruning is required, but try to grow it in full sun.

Ceanothus ‘Italian Skies’

The ‘Californian Lilac’ is another evergreen cultivar whose glossy, emerald foliage will be festooned with wide cones of tiny, rich blue flowers in the later weeks of spring. This cultivar isn’t as tough as the Arbutus however and as such should be planted in a sheltered position with, as its name would suggest, plenty of sunlight.

Cistus pulverentus ‘Sunset’

The ‘Rock Rose’ is a low growing species of shrub and continues the run of evergreens on our list, but with magenta pink, saucer-shaped flowers possessed of bright yellow stamens in early summer. Once again ‘Sunset’ needs a sheltered position in full sun.

Deutzia ‘Pride of Rochester’

The ‘Pride of Rochester’ enters the running as the first deciduous cultivar. It is a medium-sized shrub with an upright habit, its pea- green foliage grows on long arching stems, and this will be coupled with dense clusters of small pink flowers running the entire length of the stems in June. To keep it flowering well, prune back shoots which have flowered once flowering has finished.

Fucshia magellanica ‘Riccartonii’

Among the more exotic-looking species mentioned we have the ‘Riccartonii’ - another upright deciduous shrub, though this cultivar is hung with complex, beautiful ,crimson and purple flowers from summer to autumn. In harsh winters frost may kill off the top growth, but don’t worry, cut the stems back to within a few centimetres of the ground in March.

Kerria japonica ‘Pleniflora’

‘Plenifora’ is a tall, vigorous shrub with arching stems and toothed green foliage. The cheerful, double, golden-yellow, pom-pom-like flowers appear from April to May. In June prune back the shoots which have flowered.

Lavandula ‘Hidcote’

English Lavender is a fairly common sight so I won’t bore you with a description, except to say that ‘Hidcote’ has particularly deep purple flowers over a long flowering season. It needs a moderately fertile soil with full exposure to sunlight and make sure you deadhead the obsolete flowers every autumn to ensure healthy growth.

Santolina chamaecyparissus

This aromatic small shrub has evergreen foliage and a compact growth habit. The foliage is a soft grey-green and will be offset by the plant’s yellow, button-like flowers in summer. They are susceptible to strong winds and should therefore be provided support or shelter. Also, trim over once flowering has finished in order to maintain a neat shape.

Syringa ‘Charles Joly’

An upright and elegant variety of Lilac, ‘Charles Joly’ is a deciduous cultivar with heart-shaped green foliage and scented, purple flowers from May to July. Lilacs are a very hardy species and will only require a minimal amount of maintenance in the form of cutting out any untidy branches once the flowers have faded.

Weigela ‘Wine and Roses’

Finally we have the ‘Wine and Roses’, in the titular sense anyway, whose deep pink, trumpet-shaped flowers will be on display from May to August, complemented well by the deep purple foliage. Despite their bombastic blooms, they’re also surprisingly hardy and will tolerate more or less any soil conditions. Once again, give them a prune once all the flowers have gone over.

Next week we’ll be covering another plant that prefers an alkaline soil – Clematis - and looking at a number of different varieties which, when grown in unison, can bloom in sequence providing a year-round source of vibrancy.

By Josh Ellison

With all the rain we’ve been having, we’re all familiar with the slimy menace that is the common garden slug and their infuriating taste for our favourite plants and their foliage. Of course there are many commonplace methods for dealing with the blighters however, much as we complain, our own native crawlers may have only been the harbinger of a greater approaching storm i.e. ‘Arion Flagellu’, aka the Spanish Stealth Slug, who, due to their superlative breeding capacity, look to be invading gardens across the country.

You may be curious as to why it is only now, after years of importing Spanish produce and greenery, that this species has reared its ugly, shiny, menacing head. The reason, sure enough, is believed to be related to the terrible weather we’ve been having lately - the abundance of rain we’ve been suffering has made it possible for this new breed of ‘super slug’ to gain a foothold in the British Isles. Due to its ability to sustain hundreds more eggs per breeding cycle, the stealth slug is able to multiply far more effectively and coupled with this, they bring with them a myriad of new diseases to which our native species have not had the opportunity to adapt and this aids the newcomers in overwhelming the competition.

In light of this approaching threat, we’re devoting this article to the most effective means of disposing of critters such as these, as tested in the field by our qualified slug busters, although if your preferred method is the hard heel of boot, then they may have to change the name from ‘Wellingtons’ to ‘Trafalgars’!

Now when it comes to extermination the important thing is to play to the enemy’s weaknesses, so what do we know? Slugs are slow, they’re slimy and, grim though it is, they’re cannibals. As such, one of the most effective, if somewhat horrifying, methods of disposal is to crush a couple of slugs near a hot spot (the shade of a hosta for example) and await for others to congregate around the free lunch, then squish them as well!

Salt

Next we have their susceptibility to dryness - most of us are familiar with the non-romance to be found between a slug and a salt-shaker (think wicked witch of the west). However not all of us want to spend our nectar points on chemical warfare, so below you’ll find a list of organic, cheap and effective alternatives that will see the malevolent molluscs falling in droves, or at least make them easier to collect and get rid of.

Copper

Coins, wiring, plates or sheets – copper bands for your pots can be bought from the garden centre, or if you can get your hands on scrap copper then use it to build a wall around your plants; the metal will react with the slime and act as a form of electrified fence.

Beer Pits

Any left-over beer from the weekend? Just because it’s flat, doesn’t mean it’s useless, build a trap in the form of a Tupperware box, or half a lemonade bottle half-filled with beer, and half submerge it -the scent will bring slugs in - their lack of water wings will keep them there!

Hair

Any hair left over from a home trim, or from pet grooming, makes for extremely uncomfortable sliding, giving the slugs both sore lacerations and pause for thought.

Egg Shells

The same principle applies – crushed egg shells are particularly abrasive to their soft bodies.

Orange Peel

Put down hollowed out orange or grapefruit peel and the slugs will congregate underneath them, making them easier to collect and dispose of.

Good luck!

By Josh Ellison

Although the majority of the past fortnight’s column space has been taken up by reviews and information pieces concerning the recent flower show at Hampton Court Palace, it’s important that we do not lose sight of the woodland for the trees - there are other garden festivals across England and one of the further flung examples happens to be on this week.

Tatton Park is one of the largest garden and horticulture events in Northern England and arguably the most innovative in the entire country. It is the site of the Young Designer of the Year Award, not to mention endorsing such projects as the Orchestra Gardens that will grace this year’s show with a new-found breed of horticultural synaesthesia. Needless to say, the prestige of this event is assured by the inclusion of such television personalities as Chris Beardshaw and his partnership with the gardening charity ‘Groundwork’ at this year’s show.

Alongside these new additions we have the ‘Back to Back’ Gardens project which specialises in smaller gardens, hence the titular formation of their plots that allow for the maximum utilisation of the space available. With a maximum area of six metres by four, these gardens are centred mainly on conceptual originality, by focusing lots of creativity into a small space and, due to their size, a designer can cover dozens of different methodologies in a relatively short time period, thereby getting a concentrated dose of inspiration.

Just when they thought gardens could go no smaller, Tatton devised the School ‘Front to Front’ Gardens initiative with an even more restricted canvas of only three square metres whose motivation is to provide school children from across the North West an opportunity to create their own personal gardens. The project is run in partnership with Winsford Education and is sponsored by banking mogul Barclays and this year will include over twenty designs centric to the themes of 1950’s and 60’s children’s television programming. On top of that, the same schools will have the chance to raise their window boxes and competitively grow their own trugs of vegetables and fruit, which has been run hand in hand with the RHS Summer Fruit and Vegetable Competition.

Another of Tatton’s numerous highlights is the Visionary Gardens competition that encourages gardens that push the boundaries of horticulture as an art form and also those which put particular emphasis on the inclusion and integration of installations and sculptures as part of the display. 

One of these in particular has caught our eye due to its similarity in theme to the Orchestral gardens idea and, as such, we are seeing something of a thematic prevalence in the use of sound in this year’s gardens. ‘Untie the Wind’, Sheena Seeks’ contribution to the visionaries, is designed as a kind of love letter to wind instruments. The centrepiece of the garden - a large hollow pipe - is complemented by the path that traverses the garden’s length, taking you on the literal journey of air through Sheeks’ flute… or sax… or trombone.

 Whichever instruments you care to apply to this wonderfully innovative project, the only way to hear the music for yourself is to get along there, so what are you waiting for?

By Josh Ellison

Following on from our preview of this year’s flower show at Hampton Court Palace, we have kept an ear to the grindstone during the event last week and feel we are now ready to adequately report on the goings on at Hampton Court, including the winners of the show and those that most immediately peaked our attention.

So to begin proceedings, I’d like to revert to an aforementioned project from this years ‘Low cost, High Impact’ category that we gave some bearing to in our preview of the flower show. ‘Our First Home’ this year went home with the gold medal for its criteria and judges noted the innovative use of differing heights to evoke the illusion of space and also the allocation of specific tasks to specific areas of the garden, especially given its meagre budget of £7,000.

Now to discuss the ‘Best in Show’ garden, whose prestige is obviously somewhat more pronounced than their category-specific counterparts. This year’s winner was one designed around, and in reaction to, the themes of adversity inherent to those who suffer from OAB (Over Active Bladder Syndrome). The garden in question was aptly named ‘Bridge Over Troubled Water’ and its elements were selected to represent the various symptoms of the affliction and the means by which they can be overcome, for example the gardens centrepiece - a large whirlpool - is fairly indicative of the act of relief itself from these symptoms and also of the unpredictability for which their occurrence is known. Using this pool as the inanimate villain of the garden, a tree line is employed to encourage the eyes to look upward from the mire - for such a depth can arouse feelings of despair and isolation - and across the titular bridge and, more figuratively, the promise of freedom.

Finally, let’s devote some words to the conceptual designs of this year’s show as I personally found these to be the among the most interesting projects at this year’s Hampton Court - even if the in-house judges disagreed with me. This year one of the leading themes has been that of survival and perseverance, and with no designer does this ring truer than with new face Mathew Childs, whose personal story inspired his own creation. With an eye for the concept of recovery, Matthew based ‘Light at the End of the Tunnel’ around his experiences of the London Bombings and his journey to normalcy. It is this transitional period on which he has tried to focus, because at the end of it now stands the man himself, saved from despair by his new found occupation as a garden designer.

This experience is personified by both the architecture and the plant choices of Childs’ design, the space is dominated by a large artificial tunnel and at the beginning of this course one is shrouded in shade and moss though as the journey progresses, this constriction lessens and you find yourself in a much lighter environ populated by equally lighter plants.

By Josh Ellison

The Royal Horticultural Society gets a lot of column space in our editorials and not without just cause as this organisation is the single governing body for all major horticultural activities across England and Wales. But it’s not just about the shows; the RHS doesn’t get nearly enough recognition for all that it has achieved. As such, we’d like to devote this article to celebrating the history of the RHS, the initiatives that they’re affiliated with,  and also the communities and individuals they’ve helped to gain awareness, experience and appreciation for ecology and, of course, horticulture.

The RHS was begun in 1804 by Sir Joseph Banks and John Wedgewood as the Horticultural Society of London and gained its present name in a Royal Charter in 1861. Since then it has become a symbol for plant care and for the continued welfare and education of children in the field of horticulture - in fact the number of children regularly aided in this respect is now in excess of two million!

Over 1,700 communities across England and Wales enjoy the support of the RHS, and all from humble beginnings in a single show garden in Kensington. We’ve already explored exhaustively the benefits that projects such as ‘Britain in Bloom’ have granted the public both in terms of their local aesthetic and, on a larger scale, in terms of global ecology and sustainability.

But that’s not all - the RHS also champions research into new plant varieties and ways to deal with pests and diseases, as well as looking at climate change and biodiversity.

Their mission statement is as follows: ‘Our mission is to be the leading organisation demonstrating excellence in horticulture and promoting gardening’. To achieve this, the RHS, once every three years, establishes a tri-year plan by which they set smaller objective to feed into this original aim:

‘It is our intention to:

1. Be known, loved and trusted as the charity for all gardeners

2. Safeguard and advance the science, art and practice of horticulture for the benefit of future generations and the environment

3. Transform communities through gardening

4. Create world leading horticulture that inspires people to garden

5. Nurture and grow our membership throughout the UK

6. Provide a voice for all gardeners

7. Share and build expert knowledge

8. Delight our customers with exceptional service and products

9. Be a great place to work where everyone makes a difference

10. Have efficient business practices that deliver maximum income for our charitable purpose’

Having absorbed this information you may now be asking how you can help to support the charity itself - well I’ll tell you - become a member of the RHS. Aside from providing the awareness that organisations such as these require to survive, you’ll also reap the benefits of what membership can offer i.e. free entry to any of the society’s 80 gardens around the country, and a discount on future show ticket prices. As a member you’ll also get a free monthly magazine, and be able to access personalised gardening advice and take advantage of their wealth of knowledge regarding pests and diseases too. Well worth it I think.

This is only one man’s opinion, but with a history and reputation like the RHS’s, it is a well-informed one – you can find details of membership costs and an application on the RHS website.

By Josh Ellison

‘…A Room Outside’

Paraphrasing Birling House’s Board of Trustees’ former chairlady, Mrs Margaret Ivell, ‘A Room Outside’ is the description she gave to Floral & Hardy’s design for a communal garden at Birling House at a recent party to celebrate its opening. Birling House is a care home in Snodland, Kent, owned and operated on behalf of The Mortimer Society which specialises in the care of those who suffer with learning disabilities, and more specifically Parkinson’s and Huntington’s disease.

The design and build process was made possible by one of the care home’s residents, and now one of its major benefactors, Liz, for whom the garden is named and whose mother put the vast majority of the funding necessary to make this project possible. The design phase began in January and according to Birling House’s Chief Executive, Paul Studd, the top priorities of the space were accessibility and interactivity.

Due to the severe nature of some of Birling House’s residents’ conditions, it was paramount that it be made more accessible, both physically and visually. Paving had already been laid near to the buildings, but the rest of the garden was laid to lawn with some rather uninspiring flower beds around the edges. While the original paving could be kept and integrated into the new garden, new paths and stable, paved seating areas needed to be added in order for the residents’ large wheelchairs to have easy access to the whole space.

One of the other major innovations was the use of raised beds - knowing that many of the residents at Birling House were wheelchair-bound, our designer, Helen Ellison, adjusted the heights of the central flower beds a) to ensure they could be viewed directly from a seated position and b) that the foliage and flowers themselves were in easy reaching distance from either side of the beds. To further encourage such interactions Helen incorporated species such as Stachys and Pennisetum into the beds that are known for having soft, furry leaves and fluffy, ‘squirrel-tail’ flower heads respectively.

It was important that the garden be stimulating on a multi-sensory level and this included everything from the feel of the foliage, to Bamboos providing aural stimulation when shaken by the wind, together with the gentle sound of water trickling over the central water feature. 

The sense of smell was looked after by a careful selection of scented climbing plants on the pergola, including Roses, Jasmine and Honeysuckle, while the eye is drawn to colourful, vibrant perennials, such as Crocosmia, Hemerocallis and Geraniums.

As part of the residents’ contribution to the garden, the Birling House Activities Team also collected their thoughts on what to include in the garden and the most popular theme was colour. In response to this, Mr. Paul Studd and the rest of his team devised some homemade lanterns from recycled glass bottles to be hung over the beds.

Another major theme that dictated much of the atmosphere of the garden was whether to include the existing large mural painted by a former carer at Birling House. It was originally thought that it would have to be removed or painted over for the garden, however, with a little creativity, Helen was able to integrate part of its scenery into a large water feature at the back of the space and thus save the picture.

When asked how he rated the project’s success, weighed against its original mission statement, Paul Studd remarked that it was ‘Wonderful’, citing the cleanliness and politeness of the labourers during the building, and that the whole process had been a joy, while one of the board’s Trustees had this to say:

“Wonderful, really wonderful..… and the main thing is that sense of taking part interactivity.”

And it really was great to see the garden being used for the purpose for which it was built – for everyone to use and enjoy.

By Josh Ellison

Quite a stir has been kicked up in Austria this week, specifically at the annual meeting in Salzburg for the Society for Experimental Biology, where the main focus has been on the seemingly detrimental affect that potted environments are having on house plants. The findings are the product of an investigation led by Dr. Henrik Poorter of the Julich research institute in Germany into the potential affects of pot size on the root growth of house plants.

Originally studies like these focused on the miniaturisation of potted plants i.e. the minimum amount of space that could healthily support them (thus making them more commercially viable). However, the research undertaken by Dr. Poorter and specifically the new utilisation of Magnetic Resonance Imaging, or MRI, has revealed some perturbing implications.

The MRI, which was programmed specifically to identify water within the root structures of the plants, revealed that the majority of the case studies would quickly reach and consolidate at the outermost edge of the container and much of the soil between the two remained hollow.

Quickly following the time of planting, in some cases in less than a fortnight, the doctor explained, the plants’ roots would stretch to the edge of the pots.  Poorter voiced his opinion based on the correlating behavior between the 80 species that had been studied,

“"When they reach the edge, they send some kind of signal to the shoots to say, 'there's a problem - stop growing'."

The MRI works similarly to the sonar systems of a submarine in that it emits magnetic waves which are then reflected by masses of varying density and then records these densities in colours specified by the operator.

But, Dr Poorter said: "We want to make plants as happy as possible."

While this is seemingly a sentimental philosophy to take on a plants well-being, as long as we continue to encourage behaviours that inhibit their growth we will never be equipped to measure their full potential, thereby making their production, propagation and conservation far less efficient. On a domestic level, it might mean that you are not getting the best out of your house plants.

So I suppose the obvious question is ‘What can we do about it?’ Well plenty to be honest - start by taking your smaller house plants from their pots and having a good look at the roots. If they are crammed around the edge of the pot, or even coming out of the holes at the bottom, it’s probably time to pot them on.

Choose a new pot that is only a little bigger than the one it’s in (you should be able to fit about two fingers between the edge of the rootball and the new pot) as, if you use one that’s too big, water will sit in the new soil and possibly cause rot. Put a little potting compost in the bottom and sit the plant on top and then fill in with compost round the sides and firm down so there aren’t any air pockets. Always leave a bit of room at the top to allow for watering.

Once you’ve done this, there are some basics to remember no matter what your genus.

Indirect Sunlight

One of the major things we can agree upon is that plants need light, most living things do, however, being overzealous in this respect can be catastrophic as window panes will magnify any sunlight passing through them and this can scorch the leaves of tropical plants, so it’s often best to choose a north-facing window. Of course during the winter this is less of a concern and you can take advantage of the sporadic sunlight in those months by moving your plants directly adjacent to a south-facing window. It’s also important for most house plants to avoid draughts, so be careful with that.

Watering

Watering is slightly trickier as every plant has a different appetite that is nigh impossible to judge by eye, so, instead judge by hand - if you’re worried that an orchid or rose might be getting thirsty then push one fingertip into the soil, if it’s still damp then stay your watering can. Remember - brown leaves and wilting are often as not caused by overwatering, rather than underwatering. If you have a water butt, use the water from that rather than tap water and your plants will appreciate it.

Feeding

There’s a reason flower retailers include a sachet with your bouquets  - liquid feeder is one of the most universally effective means of providing nutrition to your plants. It can be diluted and multiplied by the addition of water, soaks easily into any soil type and can be easily stored when not in use. Use one high in potassium for flowering plants as this will intensify their colours, though feeding should take place most vigorously from March to September which is generally the flowering time for most house plants.

By Josh Ellison

Will the Jubilations never end? We hope not, as they’ve provided a garden shed-load of distraction for this journalist for all the horticultural pursuits it’s encouraged in HM’s honour, and this week is no exception, as today we’re reporting on the extraordinary turfing of York Minster - done a few weeks ago to provide a living carpet for a dinner party some 900 guests strong!

The head caretaker of York Minster, Minister Chamberlain Dr. Richard Shephard has explained not only the benefits, but the necessity of such a grand undertaking,

"The need for funds to restore and conserve the historic fabric of the Minster is never-ending," he said.

"I'm sure this extraordinary event will do much to assist us in our work."

Installed across the 1,500 sq. m floor space that makes up the nave of the Minster, the material was previously used to stage an indoor rugby match at London’s Grosvenor Hotel, however, its presence in York was in a somewhat more protective role. Due to the extreme antiquity of the Cathedral, the toughened fibres from which the turf was recycled make for the perfect buffering material to protect the flagstones from the weight of nearly a thousand people, before and after they’ve eaten.

Other applications of the material, which is composed entirely of recycled materials and without the need for soil, have included the temporary establishment of a faux village green in Trafalgar Square and also in the upholstering of various types of grass based furniture.

Due to the profile of some of the guests attending the dinner, and also its royal implications, the grass turf has made news as an excellent fund-raising stunt, much to the Minister’s, and his parishioner’s approval, however, the event is not only in celebration of the Diamond Jubilee, but also in honour of the Minister of the Minster himself.

At this year’s Chelsea flower show a new species of rose was presented, the aptly named ‘York Minster’ Rose, and this also held one of the highlights of the ceremony, for which the charity dinner was held.

Among the guests attending the soirée were the acting Dean Canon Glyn Webster, the Archbishop of York, Dr John Sentamu, Lord Halifax and Lord Crathorne. Those of us who were hoping to buy tickets were bitterly disappointed as the £150 passes sold out months before, almost immediately upon their release. Pity, I’d like to have seen this extraordinary sight for myself!

By Josh Ellison

While it is possible to tailor the content of your soil or mulch in order to suit whichever cultivars you wish to plant, it is generally best to go with what you’ve got. By all means improve it with compost or well-rotted manure, but basically the particular acid or alkaline levels of your garden will always eventually prevail. So in this article, and following ones, we’ll be covering shrubs suited to varying degrees of acidity and this week’s concerns those comfortable at Ph. 6 and below, or acidic soils.

It’s easy to test your soil with a small, inexpensive test kit you can buy at the garden centre, but it’s always good to take samples from different areas in the garden to make sure you don’t get a rogue reading!

Floral & Hardy’s Top Ten Shrubs for Acid Soils

Acer palmatum dissectum ‘Garnet’

‘Garnet’ is a small, mound-forming shrub with finely-cut, purple foliage which turns bright scarlet in autumn. Great for Japanese style gardens.

Azalea (Rhododendron) ‘Gibraltar’

This deciduous Azalea is a vibrant addition to any bed or border as they are possessed of an upright, spreading habit and will display broad, oblong leaves accompanied by fragrant, bright orange flowers in late spring. They also have good autumn foliage, but you should ensure they are well sheltered and kept away from a northern aspect.

Calluna ‘H.E. Beale’

A hardy species of Heather, this cultivar is small and wide with autumnal pink flowering and green, scrub-like foliage. They perform best in direct sunlight and as such should not be overly sheltered.

Camellia ‘Adolphe Audusson’

An erect evergreen shrub, ‘Adolphe’ is large and dense, with glossy leaves and broad, vibrant flowers of deep red with bright yellow stamens. They are tolerant of most aspects except East facing, don’t mind shade and, like their counterparts on this list, they prefer a moist but well-drained soil.

Enkianthus campanulatus

Otherwise known as the ‘Redvein Enkianthus’, this large deciduous shrub produces clumps of creamy, red-tinged flowers from late spring to early summer and in the autumn the foliage will change to brilliant oranges, reds and yellows. Ideally planted in semi-shade with plenty of shelter.

Hamamelis intermedia ‘Diane’

The romantically named ‘Witch Hazel’ is a large deciduous shrub with an open habit whose emerald foliage will turn to a heady orange/red in autumn and in winter will bear fragrant flowers with matching colours. Any aspect will do here, though it is important that the plant receive some shelter from the elements.

Kalmia latifolia

The ‘Mountain Laurel’ is an evergreen shrub with glossy, dark-green leaves  and in summer it will bear clusters of grand pink/white flowers, however be warned that the leaves of this plant are highly toxic to ingest. They prefer partial shade to sun and a south facing aspect.

Pernettya mucronata ‘Mulberry Wine’

One of the smaller entrants to our list, this thicket forming specimen will show small, spiny leaves and small white flowers in summer followed by beautiful, glossy, magenta-purple berries. It prefers partial, or full shade and humus-rich soil content - also ensure they are well-drained.

Pieris ‘Forest Flame’

‘Forest Flame’ is an evergreen shrub with light green foliage with spectacular red new growth and a clustered collection of white, lily-of-the-valley-like flowers in spring. It is recommended you plant this cultivar in full sunlight.

Rhododendron ‘Purple Splendour’

Another Rhododendron to cap off our list, although this time an evergreen one, and as the name would suggest this cultivar will bloom with large, purple flowers in late spring. They prefer partial shade or full sun and well-drained soil.

By Josh Ellison

This week in the news we have the debate on the relative ecological value of ‘brownfield’ sites across London and the rest of the UK. For a long time these sites, which include, but are not limited to exhausted quarries, disused railway lines and gravel pits, were targeted as a waste of valuable agricultural or commercial space, it has been gradually emerging that perhaps they’ve been serving a far more significant purpose than potential developers could have imagined.

Before we continue, I’d like to take a moment to reflect on the rising importance of green corridors in the UK and more specifically in urban areas - their purpose, as the name would suggest, is to afford safe passage to different wildlife species across large areas of urbanisation and particularly where food or nesting grounds may be scarce.

In relation to brownfield zones, these corridors’ only difference in definition with the brownfields is the species of plant life that exist there. While many consider the flora of brownfield little more than a weed infested wasteland, TV personality Bill Oddie recognises the ecological importance of these hardy, numerous and naturally occurring wildflower collections.

This new-found initiative for the preservation of brownfields ecology has been spearheaded by the charity trust, Butterfly Conservation and not without reason - you see a very rare species of moth named the ‘Small Ranunculus’ has been sighted quite frequently using these urban meadows as nesting and breeding grounds. This particular species hasn’t been sighted in the UK since before World War Two and as such magazine ‘Insect Journal Atropos’ has responded by imploring their readership, where safe and legal to do so, to check out their local brownfields zones and keep their eyes peeled for any unfamiliar species, to be catalogued in further defence of the brownfields zones.

Richard Fox, a representative of Butterfly Conservation, spoke out on behalf of the brownfields topic stating that:

"An old spoil tip [for example] would be terrible if you wanted to create a garden, but it's great for wildlife, because the poor soil leads to slow development of diverse plants."

And tips are only one example of the potential sites for biodiversity that Brownfields can offer - we’re all familiar with the areas that line the Thames river front and litter the surround of Battersea, however, what most of us don’t know is that the weedy patches of concrete that we find so unpleasant form their own microclimates, as they’re unique in their ability to absorb heat from the sun and, as such, are a welcome sight to travelling insects and even small mammals, toads and snakes.

In light of this information, it is essential that we begin pledging our support to the further preservation and, more importantly, research concerning the ecological potential of Brownfields sites. As the Olympic gardens have demonstrated, there is now more than ever a need for the propagation of native wildflower species within the UK in order to ensure the continuation of our endemic plant species without whom we might be robbed of our environmental identity.

By Josh Ellison

In light of the ruddy awful weather we’ve been having these past few weeks, we thought we’d have a look at plants that would positively adore this deluge that the weather services have promised will continue well into July and perhaps into August!

We’ll cover other provisions for heavy rainfall - sandbags and other preventative measures for flooding - in a later periodical, however, this week we’ll just be talking about which types of perennials are suited to damper conditions.

Floral & Hardy’s Top Ten Plants for Damp Spots:

Astilbe ‘Fanal’

This is an upright perennial with towers of clustered blooms that will show in a deep reddish-pink throughout summer. They have attractive leaves, a clump forming habit and usually prefer shade and a soil that is rich in loam content.

Caltha palustris

Other names for this plant include ‘Water Goggles’, ‘Water Gowan’ and ‘Water Buttercup’. Now the linguists among you will have already noticed the correlation in all those monikers - the bright yellow flowers love the rain, the sunshine and a damp, loamy soil.

Cimicifuga ‘White Pearl’

This is a clump-forming, herbaceous perennial possessed of pale green foliage and tall arches of white flowers that bloom densely throughout the summer and tail down in the autumn. They’re a delicate flower and it would be prudent to provide some shelter and some shade.

Hemerocallis fulva ‘Flore Pleno’

This is a semi-evergreen, herbaceous perennial with a clump-forming habit and bright green, strap-like leaves. Given some sun, it will bear large, vibrant, trumpet-shaped blooms with deep red centres surrounded by rich orange colouring throughout summer.

Iris ensata

The ‘Japanese Water Iris’ is an upright, rhizomatous perennial with bell-shaped, lavender flowers. It has a clump-forming habit and will show these red-purple flowers throughout summer and into early autumn.

Ligularia dentata ‘Desdemona’

Otherwise known as the ‘Leopard Plant’ this robust, clump former will show large, yellow, daisy-like flowers with ruddy, orange stamen throughout summer and autumn, contrasting well with its large purple leaves. They prefer a dense soil type, ideally clay or loam and a sunny spot to grow in.

Lobelia cardinalis ‘Queen Victoria’

Though short-lived, this perennial certainly burns twice as brightly to compensate, showing erect stems weighed with small crimson flowers from June to September, contrasting with its purple foliage and stems. Also, for its short life span it is incredibly easy to grow as it has little preference in terms of its conditions being tolerant to most soil types, full sun or partial shade.

Lythrum saliaria ‘Firecandle’

Another clump-forming perennial, the ‘Firecandle’ is named for both its colour and shape, it is an erect species that grown to height in excess of a metre and, if this were not eye catching enough, it also sports rich pink flowers along the length of its spires.

Rodgersia pinnata ‘Chocolate Wings’

‘Chocolate Wings’, named for its large, veined, chocolate coloured foliage, is a shade-loving, rhizomatous perennial with a clump-forming habit, this foliage will deepen in colour with age and grow to about 80cms high. Plumes of pinkish flowers appear in summer.

Zantedeschia aethiopica ‘Crowborough’

Arguably the most aesthetically focused flower on our list, the ‘Arum Lily’ is simply magnificent. It will bear trumpets of pure white with yellow stamen on slender, upright stems from rosettes of large bright green leaves. For best results, plant in boggy conditions where a high loam content is present.

By Josh Ellison

One of the major events in horticulture has been the stir caused by HRH Prince Charles’ comments at the 20th anniversary of the UN’s ecological summit in Rio de Janeiro. Rio+20 took a decided focus on the current condition of our global climate and also the deterioration of our environment, how our actions are affecting it and what the potential consequences of this might be if human intervention is left unchecked.

HRH identified the problems we face by previous attitudes towards them and that by continuing with similar intentions we doom ourselves to failure,

"It is, perhaps, a trait of human nature to act only when the worst happens, but that is not a trait we can afford to rely on here…

…Once the worst does happen, I am afraid that this time around it will be too late to act at all."

One of the major points of Charles’ address was the need to consolidate the currently segregated categories of planetary health - the major players being water, air, forest, biodiversity and soil, and while the study of these criteria remains separated by expertise, sponsorship or manpower, we will be hopelessly uneducated as to our planet’s health when the time comes to improve it.

However, the ecological summit assumed only one part of the proceedings and, in keeping with the themes of the original conference, the social and economic development of our race, whose primary side effect would be a significant increase in the resources of our planet and the pollution produced as a result.

At our current rate of growth it is predicted that the Earth’s population will rise to upwards of 8.5 billion people by 2015 and to 15 billion by 2100. Since 1960 our planetary consumption has tripled to half a world more than Earth can independently produce. As a result of this, artificially intensive harvesting methods are required, the majority of which are still based on fossil fuels.

And while HRH highlights the Amazon as one of the most threatened regions of biodiversity, Latin America hosts one of the most wildly eclectic ecosystems on the planet, which, not coincidentally, was one of the major developmental points of the conference. As one of the poorest regions in the world, countries such as Bolivia suffer from a severely undernourished population and as a result the UN Ambassadors have endeavoured to halve the number of hunger sufferers globally by 2015.

As a result of our increased population growth we have begun exponentially consuming raw materials such as lumber and animals that, among others, are the foundation of our planetary ecosystem. The summits current findings were drawn against those of the 1992 gig and it was found that the average person consumes 9kg more meat per year just twenty years later! Much of this can be linked to the import of foreign goods, particularly to developed countries that supported such luxurious consumers.

It is this element of luxury through consumerist design that has led to a surplus in demand and the subsequent lack of supply. The nonchalance of the richest countries, those in a position to affect global change, arises from the fact that they aren’t made directly vulnerable by the change they’re contributing to, and thus unfortunately have less impetus to do anything about it.

Something’s got to change…

By Josh Ellison

As a follow up to our article concerning Project LEAF and the initiatives underway to prevent further forest crime, we thought you’d like to know how you could create your own natural woodland, and thus supplement in some small way those forests that have been decimated by illegal logging.

Aside from forestry as a whole, by establishing your own woodland you’ll also be providing desperately needed habitats for Britain’s wildlife - every ecosystem begins with vegetation and, as such, it is impossible to judge the value of long term woodland habitats. Of course, in order to make the best foundation for domestic wildlife it is important to tailor your plant choices according to what our endemic fauna is accustomed to, so try to plant a majority of native deciduous trees, shrubs and perennials wherever possible.

Below you’ll find a few examples species we’d recommend as base plants for your woodland:

Trees

Oak

 

 

 

Ash

 

 

 

Silver Birch

 

 

 

Field Maple

 

 

 

Shrubs

Guelder Rose

Green Holly

Variegated Holly

Hazel

Hazel nuts

Buckthorn

Perennials and Bulbs

Foxgloves

 

Bluebells

Wood Anemones

Primroses

Fern

Fern leaf underside

These plants were selected based on their durability (in light of recent weather conditions!) and their being native to our shores. As such they should provide an excellent and natural base to your microcosm while strengthening the numbers of the British woodland. They should be planted in a random, natural-looking manner, rather than in regimented rows or planting beds. Go out into natural woodlands and look at how things seed themselves around and try to emulate that in your own space.

But be warned, it should be remembered that whilst a project like this has an abundance of obvious advantages, foremost of which perhaps is a garden teeming with wildlife, it can also be a difficult and lengthy undertaking, not guaranteed to succeed and requiring diligent care to get it established.

To aid the sustainability of the project, and to enhance the natural woodland feel, you should aim wherever possible to use reclaimed materials endemic to the British isles, for example, when laying pathways be sure to consider reclaimed railway sleepers, sliced tree trunks for stepping stones or simply locally produced bark chippings. To further reduce the carbon footprint of your construction phase, consider seating made from recycled logs or stone.

However, in the end, a garden can only be judged by the amount of enjoyment derived by the user and those they share it with, so make sure to include focal points. As an example a small clearing or naturalised pond can create an excellent centrepiece, the first for its rich autumnal colours and the second for the concentration of wildlife it will bring. While it may seem a great deal of work establishing such a large ecosystem in the back yard, bear in the mind the myriad of wildlife that such an environment will attract and, aside from your own enjoyment, how much you’ll be able to entertain and educate the family with such a space. If this doesn’t convince you, at least consider the aid you’ll be giving our slow march back to a sustainable planet.

By Josh Ellison

With all the rain we’ve been having lately, it means that either you’ve got a really lush garden, or if you’re one of the unlucky ones who’ve had it really bad, something that resembles more of a swamp, but, at the height of summer (!) it is important to continue to tend to all the jobs necessary to maintain a healthy garden throughout July, August and the rest of the seasonal year.

We simply don’t have the column space for everything you need to be doing, but here are just some of the tasks you should be thinking of:

Dead-Heading

Dead-heading is one of the most frequent, subtle and effective forms of maintenance for repeat-flowering perennials and bedding plants - it ensures healthy growth and the promise of further blooming of the flowers in question. After all, spending a lot of money on planting acres of beautiful flowers is all well and good, but, unless those flowers bloom continuously, you’re not getting the true value and will miss out on a summer long show of colour. Ensure you take the whole flower head, including the base, so that it doesn’t get the chance to set seed, otherwise you’re wasting your time!

Clematis Wilt

One of the most popular climbing plants, the Clematis, is highly susceptible to wilt fungus, particularly the larger flowering examples of the species. Commonly the fungus will cause rapid wilting of the plant’s foliage and stems - in severe cases, or without due attention, it can lead to the death of the plant. You can spot the onset of Clematis wilt by the discolouration of both the stems and their leaves, newly affected areas will show blackened patches. As soon as you see this, cut out the affected parts and get rid of them. The best means to prevent this blight in the first place is to ensure that your cultivar is planted in deep, fertile soil, at least 15cms above the soil level in the pot, so as to provide adequate encouragement for strong, healthy root growth. If you’re concerned about the fertility of your soil then some light turning of organic mulch into the ground should provide a welcome nutrient boost to the plant. You could also plant varieties that are less susceptible to wilt, such as the montanas, alpinas, or the viticella types.

Watering

This is an obvious entry for a list of summer jobs but no less important for it, but it would be all too easy to take the heavy-handed approach of daily watering of all the plants. However,  Britain frankly doesn’t have the fluid to spare this summer, if the hose pipe ban we were exposed to in the earlier months of this year wasn’t clue enough. Conversely this should not mean that your plants wilt from drought either  - common sense obviously applies. Giving a thorough watering once a week is better than a light sprinkling every day, although plants in pots may need watering every day in dry spells. Ensure that you lift the foliage of bushier plants too, so that water isn’t uselessly evaporated upon the leaves instead of reaching the roots.

Lawncare

Another vulnerable area of the garden, particularly during the summer months, is the lawn which can turn brown and crisp after just a few days neglect. To ensure that your lawn remains healthy, green and lush throughout the hot season get in early with a quick-acting summer feed and water once a week in dry weather, although it should be remembered that lawns will soon recover once we get a drop of rain. If like us though you’ve had a lot of wet weather, you’ll probably find your grass is tall and lush, so keep up with the mowing on dry days, otherwise, if you leave it too long, when you do cut it, you might find it turning brown underneath!

Off the Woodwork

Finally, as a change to all the preventative measures we’ve suggested, we have a job that actually takes advantage of this hot weather rather than shying away from it; the vast majority of domestic gardens have some form of carpentry. Be it decking, fencing, sculpture or just the plain old garden shed, nearly every home garden you can think of will have some timber that is exposed year in year out to the elements, so, while the sun is shining, why not take the opportunity to reapply a good layer of paint or sealant to aid the durability of these structures. It is essential these tasks be carried out in fair weather as it gives the sealants time to bond to the wood before damp can halt the process, and what time like the present?

By Josh Ellison

Despite what the weathermen would have you believe, we are now approaching the cusp of middle summer and the beginning of July has a different significance wherever you go - in the United States for example, it means the approach of Independence Day and a sky full of light and the first Sunday of the month is internationally renowned as ‘Make a Scarecrow Day’.

Here in England however, and more specifically in green fingered circles, we have our own commemoration of midsummer, and it is the ‘Hampton Court Flower Show’.

There is a  new competitive category this year, simply titled ‘Low Cost, High Impact’, which as its name suggests, is built on the foundation of practicality, both in financial terms and the use one could derive from the space.

In the case of ‘Our first home, Our first garden’, one of the major creative counters to the problem of budget which, in proportion to the scope and prestige of the show in which it is to be featured and standing at only £7,000, is a challenge to say the least. As such, the garden’s designer Nilufer Danis of Landform Consultants, has employed primarily recycled and reclaimed materials in the actual construction side of the garden with the majority of the budget being allocated to the planting. However, even the plants are taking a (pun intended) leaf from the spendthrift’s book - Danis has established a colour of fresh blues and bright, vibrant yellows using a combination of cheap, low maintenance perennials and compact shrubs, appropriate to the garden’s size and shape.

As the project’s title would suggest, the space is designed for young couples who’re likely living in an urban environment and together for the first time and because of this, the space is designed equally for both entertainment and relaxation, as the centre of its seating area is adorned by an open chiminea.

In the same category, there is also the ‘Live Outdoors’ piece – the product of show garden veteran designer Roger Smith – which is centred around the concept of al fresco dining and outdoor cooking. A fern rich pathway leads to a raised seating area which itself is erected under the cover of a densely planted pergola  and with a living wall at its back. The colour scheme of Smith’s offering is markedly more regal than Danis’, incorporating deep purple Heucheras  to offset the golden Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’.

However, the major change to this year’s Hampton Court is the introduction of the Grapevine Theatre, an interactive platform of sorts from which various gardening and wild life personalities will deliver seminars, speeches and answer general queries as to their own motivations within horticulture, and what advice they can lend from their experience. You can expect to find one celebrity per day onstage and these include personalities such as Bill Oddie and Toby Buckland.

There will also be plenty of other interesting  distractions, of course all the other show gardens, and, as always, Hampton Court is promising to be child-friendly with under 16’s being granted free admission.

By Josh Ellison

Some gardens, particularly coastal ones, suffer from the extremes of weather that an exposed position will provide, so today we’re looking at plants that will survive such conditions.

While it is not the key focus of our topic, soil quality is important too and although different plants may have different preferences as below. They all need strong foundations, as one of the major problems with an exposed area is wind affecting the root structures of whatever’s planted there. Staking will also help.

Floral & Hardy’s Top Ten Plants for Exposed Positions:

Artemisia absinthium ‘Lambrook Silver’

This evergreen perennial has a bush-forming habit and aromatic, silvery-grey foliage in all seasons. It will also bear sparse sprays of small, deep yellow flowers throughout summer. It thrives in any soil as long as it’s well drained. Height 75cms.

Betula utilis jacquemontii ‘Jermyns’

Betula utilis is a stunning, white barked tree with a conical habit. It has dense green foliage later yellowing at the onset of autumn and long brown catkins in spring. Well-drained soil is best.  Height 12ms+

Carex buchananii

Carex buchananii is a clump-forming, evergreen grass with eye-catching, coppery foliage and matching, though insignificant, flowers in the summer months. Again any sort of well-drained soil will do. Height 75cms.

Echinacea purpurea ‘Doubledecker’

The ‘Coneflower’ is a tall, upright, herbaceous perennial and mid-summer to early autumn it will bear pink daisies with vivid brown centres and, in the second year, and unusual extra layer of petals from the central cone, thus giving it its name. It can be planted in any well-drained soil. Height 1.5ms.

Eryngium planum ‘Blauer Zwerg’

This attractive perennial has a clump-forming habit with long, branching, blue stems and clusters of teasle-like, lilac-blue flowers. While it is a deciduous species, meaning that its silver foliage will only show from spring to autumn, the flowers are really good when dried for floral arrangements. They do well in dry, poor soil. Height 50cms.

Escallonia ‘Donard Radiance’

This variety of Escallonia is a vigorous, medium to large, evergreen shrub with small, leathery, dark green leaves and clusters of  rose-red flowers in summer. It prefers a well-drained soil. Height 2-2.5ms.

Hippophae rhamnoides

Hippophae are deciduous plants that vary in size between a shrub and a small tree with thin, silver leaves and insignificant yellow flowers, but this foliage is evergreen and, with both sexes of the plant, one can admire their plentiful orange fruits in autumn. Well-drained alkaline to neutral soil is preferred. Height 4-8ms.

Lonicera japonica ‘Halliana’

This variety of ‘Honeysuckle’ is a vigorous, evergreen climber with twining stems and delicate, droplet-like, heavily scented white and yellow flowers all summer and bright green foliage. Moist, but well-drained soil of virtually any type is fine. Height 4-8ms.

Tamarix ramosissima ‘Rubra’

This variety is so-named for the ruby tint of its flowers, which will arrive in abundance. It is a deciduous shrub with rosy, plume-like panicles throughout summer and grey-green foliage from spring to winter. Plant in well drained, acid to neutral soil. Height 3-4ms.

Ulex europaeus

The ‘Common Gorse’ is a dense, bushy evergreen plant seen growing on many a common, with spiny, green foliage and clusters of small yellow, pea-like flowers abounding in spring. It prefers a poor, sandy/stony soil. Height 2ms.

By Josh Ellison

The RHS scheme ‘It’s your Neighbourhood’ is back in full swing again this year and due to the project’s communal nature, we felt it deserved any exposure we can lend (not that it needs it). IYN’s basic premise, in conjunction with the Britain in Bloom project is to encourage groups of people connected by their proximity and their community, to try to improve the aesthetic and ecological validity of their local areas, whilst also trying to inspire an interest in the subject of horticulture in younger gardeners by proxy of their relatives.

IYN acts as a micromanagement initiative for the larger project that is Britain in Bloom, which means that any community can register to the project. The groups are mainly volunteer-led and focus mostly on the ‘clean up’ aspect of community presentation including, though not limited to, cleaning up shared spaces such as alleyways or estate greens. As a part of Britain in Bloom, IYN shares its three pillars of conduct and criteria: Community Participation, Environmental Responsibility and Gardening Achievement.

However, at the mention of criteria it is not uncommon for people to assume that there be a competitive edge involved and while this is not exactly the case, each registered community is visited by BIB assessor who, as part of the initiative, will devote time to the suggested improvement of each constituency and, based on these visits, each group will receive a certificate of achievement from the RHS, relative to how effectively the aims of the project have been accomplished by its participants.

There are five recognised grades of achievement within the course of the project and these are Establishing, Improving, Developing, Thriving and Outstanding, which are fairly self-explanatory and if a constituency performs at a consistent level of excellence over an extended period, then they may be nominated for the RHS ‘It’s Your Neighbourhood National Certificate of Distinction’.

However, not just anyone can enter the initiative - there are certain characteristics required on behalf of would-be entrants like a hands-on attitude, being representative of a community or residential group, a certain degree of sustainability over time, and that the community take responsibility for their own work.

By reading the RHS case studies on the various IYN projects underway across Britain, one begins to understand just how diverse, not to mention popular, the initiative has become. Why in Manchester alone, a participant in Britain in Bloom for over a decade now, there are over 100 independent IYN groups focused on various aspects of horticulture. With a volunteer count of over 12,000 it is believed that the city has benefited from nearly £50,000 worth of free labour!

You may be thinking that there are few jobs to be done around your local area that could qualify for IYN, but this is not the case.  The responsibilities of these groups have in the past included restoring churchyards, adapting brownfield spaces for communal use, such as sporting grounds or social areas, and forming maintenance bodies to look after local parks and verges. It’s up to all of us to keep our local areas looking good and everyone can get involved –what’s stopping you?

By Josh Ellison

Aside from their obvious beauty and distinctive scents, roses provide an excellent lure to a varied list of wildlife ranging from insects and birds to small mammals due partially to their high pollen yield, but mostly due to their large attractive flowers, often followed by large, juicy hips. The fact that these species are specifically vertical growers means that they are one of the most effective means of attracting winged creatures to the garden. However, there are specific conditions that will best encourage the growth necessary to provide these blooms.

Roses do prefer a fairly sheltered area and the more sun the better, as it is sunlight that feeds the vividness of their colours, so try not to plant them in the shade of trees for example. They will also tolerate most soil types, as long as they’re well drained.  Add plenty of compost or well-rotted manure at planting time, make sure you feed them regularly. Watch out for pests and diseases and treating them promptly will provide a colourful display all summer long.

So without further gilding the lilies, here are our favourite choices, organised by which aspect suits them:

North

‘Golden Showers’

Golden Showers’ name derives from its buttercup-like petals and the rich yellow centre that connects them. It has dark green glossy leaves on matching, upright stems.

‘New Dawn’

One of the hardiest Rosa varieties, it has pale, silvery pink flowers with a faint scent.

‘Veilchenblau’

This rambling rose is a semi evergreen, possessed of a vigorous growth cycle with unusual violet flowers with white centres during the summer, and mid-green foliage in all seasons.

East

‘Madame Alfred Carriere’

Mme Alfred Carriere is a vigorous climber that displays glossy, emerald foliage with a minimum of thorns and throughout summer and autumn will produce clusters of scented white flowers with a pink blush.

‘Maigold’

This climber is compact in formation and will produce glossy, dark-green foliage armed with both thorns and large golden flowers that have a slight fragrance.

‘Zepherine Drouhin’

The bourbon climbing rose will yield deep pink blooms throughout summer and autumn with an accompanying fragrance and, as a bonus, its stems are thornless.

South

Banksiae ‘Lutea’

The yellow banksia rose is really a rapidly growing shrub rose with thornless stems, clusters of double, buttery flowers and pale green foliage.

‘Compassion’

Compassion is another fast grower with particularly attractive foliage, sprouting glossy green leaves on deep red stems and complementary fragrant, copper-pink flowers.

‘Swan Lake’

Swan Lake possesses a continuous display of pinkish white blooms that also bring a scent with them. It will take a bushy appearance as it matures.

West

‘Guinee’

The Guinee variety of Rosa is actually tea hybrid, though it still sports the characteristics of its forebears. It has vivid scarlet flowers with a strong aroma and long arching stems in summer and autumn.

‘Mermaid’

A slow-growing, deciduous or semi-evergreen climber that will bear cupped, single, pale yellow flowers atop stiff reddish stems decorated with hooked thorns and glossy green foliage.

‘Rambling Rector’

Rambling rector derives its name from the nature of its growth, requiring plenty of support to take definitive shape. It has clusters of fragrant white blooms with complementary yellow stamens.

By Josh Ellison

Trees and their subsequent by-products are one of the world’s foremost natural resources, second perhaps only to water. They’re possibly the most widespread form of biomass on the planet, and they are under threat. No, it’s not another deforestation article - this week we’re discussing the ‘Project Leaf’ (Law Enforcement Assistance for Forests) initiative - a new organisation endorsed and supported by both Interpol and the UN, and while it is still in its infancy, the initiative aims to create a more effective policing approach to international forest crime.

This specifically concerns criminals affiliated with illegal logging and lumber trafficking. The impetus of the initiative stems not only from the significant rise in these crimes in recent decades, but also the rising dependence of the world’s population upon the lumber industry. It was estimated in a study undertaken by Project Leaf (Law Enforcement Assistance for Forests) that over ¼ of the world’s population relies on trees and their derivatives for their food, fuels, medicines and livelihoods and as such, it is a matter of global imperative that this threat to international economies be nipped in the bud.

One of the major developments in the criminal activity has been the globalisation of the enterprise - it is no longer an activity restricted by nationality or borders. As David Higgins, Environmental Crime Programme Manager for Interpol, has stated:

"The international legislation to protect forests and curtail illegal logging demonstrates this, Project Leaf will ensure these global laws are supported by global enforcement and that the criminals responsible are brought to justice - no matter what their location, movements or resources.”

Of course the major threat posed by unchecked logging and trafficking is the increased and, more importantly, unrecorded deforestation and as our previous articles have asserted, we’ll need every tree we can get to ensure the eventual halt and reversal of climate change. Trees en masse act as great natural sponges to the carbon footprints our technology leaves behind, however, this alludes to a more nefarious side-effect of forest clearing and logging. Though the trees will absorb carbon dioxide as a part of the process of photosynthesis, the harmful elements of the gas will not be converted for some time and so by felling relatively young sections of forest these huge deposits of carbon are re-released, now in a more concentrated form, into the atmosphere.

In fact this problem is so widespread the it is estimated that over 15% of the world’s carbon emissions are a result of recycled carbon being dispersed during deforestation - a figure around 1.5 times that of all our transport, shipping and traffic combined!

Of course, while this has encouraged increased awareness and significance to be placed upon our forests, it is thought that only around 8% of the world’s forests are certified as sustainably managed and more than 90% of these are centralised to regions around North America and Europe while less developed nations (with much greater economic reliance on this material) are left with the crumbs. It is also developing nations such as those situated in the tropics that report that highest level of illegal deforestation, accounting for a whopping 50-90% of all logging activity in that region!

By Josh Ellison

In this piece we’ll be discussing the Gardeners’ World Live Show of 2012, currently running in Birmingham - how the project got started and has subsequently grown within the media and horticultural industries since its inception, and how exposure and your own enjoyment of its subjects can be improved through the awareness we hope to provide. Also, as with all the major gardening shows this year, we’ll be giving our personal opinion on the greatest triumphs of the show, the motivations behind these installations and also the people who helped transform them from a concept or design, to the reality GWL’s visitors will be able to enjoy en masse.

The beginning of Gardeners’ World Live, of course, stem from the titular television program of which the design expose was a spin-off (and a very successful one at that!). The TV broadcast piloted in 1968 and, by June 1992, it had been decided that perhaps the full potential of the show’s exposure hadn’t been taken advantage of and so Gardeners’ World Live was born. In its initial run the show enjoyed over 17,000 visitors and 100 exhibitors, and has since become a staple among the RHS’ seven annual shows. Since 2005 it has included the BBC Good Food show as one of its entertainment vassals. This year’s show expects around 85,000 visitors.

Also, due to its affiliation with the British Broadcasting Company, the GWL regularly entertains celebrity gardening personalities such as Monty Don, Julia Bradbury and Ainsley Harriott, further cementing its identity within the British psyche.

What this means of course, is that part of this year’s show will be devoted to the jubilation surrounding its 20 year anniversary , however, aside from celebrating the shows heritage, this year’s exhibition welcomes a host of new attractions that have only now been introduced. These include the ‘Going Wild’ feature which consists of a variety of different pursuits that can be used to strengthen our waning ecosystems and support the hugely varied wildlife endemic to our shores.

 

 

 

As such, it is sponsored and informed by a number of major charities and ecological preservation societies and trusts, including the British Beekeepers Association, Pond Conservation Charity and the Bat Conservation Trust. However, this exhibit is not limited only to the fauna of Britain, but also to her flora, as exemplified by the presence of the RHS sponsored ‘Seeds of Knowledge’ area. 

This area is devoted to the sharing of new horticultural theory and also to familiarise gardeners with recently developed methods and species, with the aid of various horticultural colleges and national plant associations.

Leaning more on the aesthetic side of things, GWL is also entertaining a myriad of gardening pedigree this year with a veritable all-star group of designers, including Chris Beardshaw and Andy Sturgeon - RHS gold medallists, who’ve both been commissioned for separate roles in the show.

Sturgeon will be judging a new competition entitled ‘On Your Marks, Get Set, Garden!’ that is hoping to encourage new designers on the larger stage that the GWL offers and, as part of this impetus on new blood within horticulture, the show is for the first time offering a kids-go-free policy for its two weekend days and any child under 6 will gain free entry throughout. This offer has come on the back of several attractions designed to stimulate kid’s interest in gardening.

The show closes on Sunday, so it’s not too late – try and get along there this weekend to enjoy everything the show has to offer. Might even make another good Father’s Day gift?

By Josh Ellison

In recognition of the Olympic committee’s huge undertaking in the East End to produce a massive meadow garden intertwined with the stadium grounds, we thought it would be worthwhile to compile a short guide on how to establish your own wildflower meadow and then how to look after it.

There are two major types of meadow flower - perennial and annual – that can only be planted effectively once you’ve gauged the fertility of your soil. Perennials will prefer a poor soil quality as it means that the grass you sow will not overgrow the flowers that are to follow, whereas annuals need a fertile soil to ensure they reach maximum growth potential and thus are excellent for converting pre-existing borders to meadows.

The next decision is whether to raise a summer or spring meadow, as each requires different species of plants to ensure consistent blooming - essential to the aesthetic of a successful meadow garden.

Summer flowering species include:

Feverfew

With small, white, daisy-like flowers, this one prefers loamy or sandy soil in full sun with good drainage and despite its hardiness it is important to keep this one sheltered from dry winds.

Pignut 

Suited to beds and borders and will bear white, insignificant flowers. Acidic or neutral soil is preferable facing anywhere but north.

Harebell

An upright, herbaceous perennial that performs best in fertile soil in either full sun or partial shade while exposure is not too much of a factor.

Ox-Eye Daisy

Tall stems of large white daisies, preferring chalky to neutral soils in full sunlight.

Tufted Vetch

A scrambling perennial with purple, pea-like flowers, it climbs through vegetation by means of tendrils and it prefers a damp soil.

Spring sprites include:

Bird’s Foot Trefoil

A spreading perennial with yellow, pea-like flowers and bluish-green leaves. It can tolerate dry or damp conditions, but needs full sun.

Ragged Robin

Star-shaped, deeply cut, pink or white flowers on tall stems. It will grow in sun or partial shade in any type of soil.

Dropwort

An upright and rhizomatous perennial with a rosette-forming habit, preferring heavy soils composed of either clay or loam.

Oxlip

A semi-evergreen perennial with low maintenance requirements which prefers full or partial shade and so is ideal among established grassland.

Goatsbeard

Dandelion-like, yellow flowers on tall stems. The roots and buds of this plant are edible and can be used in diabetic salads.

Once you’ve decided what to plant, the next question is whether to use seed or turf? The major difference between the two, of course, is cost, though this is weighted against the reliability of each as well. Using turf is a sure fire way to establish a meadow this year, where even in optimal conditions, seeding can take as long as five years to form a substantial meadow, or maybe not at all, as the weather and passing animals and birds can all serve to frustrate your efforts. 

Many companies will lay the turf, as well as supply it, making the turfing option even easier, however, for those traditionalists among you here are the basics to sowing your own meadow grass:

• Prepare the ground adequately by removing all weeds, particularly vigorous, perennial ones.

• Take off the top few inches of soil if possible to reveal the sub-soil beneath, as most meadow flowers prefer poor soil, dig or rotovate it, and rake it over as you would when planting a new lawn.

• Do not incorporate fertilisers as these will heighten the chances of existing grasses overcrowding the flowers you sow.

• Try to use native British seeds as these will be better suited to our climate.

• To ensure even dispersal, sow half of your seeds lengthways and the other widthways.

• Rake lightly and water thoroughly.

• If you live in an area with a heavy bird population, a layer of netting, or a scarecrow, may be necessary to protect the seedlings.

It may seem a lot of work, but whether you decide to take this, or the turfing option, the effort will certainly be worth it to bring a little bit of the countryside into your garden.

By Josh Ellison

As promised this piece will continue our top ten list of last minute gardening gifts for Father’s Day and this section will be focused on the more frivolous side of horticulture - specifically aids to help Dad further enjoy being in his garden. Now, with only a couple of days left, it is important that any prospective buyer get the ball rolling quickly, though we should warn you, some of the entries on this list are not the most bank account friendly. But what we can guarantee is originality and, hopefully, some genuine surprise when the Dad in question does the unwrapping.

1. Hammock

Anyone who’s watched an episode of the Simpsons will recognise the obviousness of this choice - there are few things that more succinctly or aptly sum up the concept of relaxation than a scrap of cloth hung between two trees. In its simplicity, the hammock reigns supreme over the likes of lawn chairs or swing sets. It can be erected practically anywhere and with greater ease than its rivals and there are models available with built-in mosquito nets, if the dad in question is a napper which, after a hard day’s digging, I imagine we all are.

2. Recycled Bird Feeders

Though in their infancy these were a fairly limited range of products, in both style and functionality, the aesthetic of their medium has seen more of the limelight in recent years particularly in the wake of ecological sirens being sounded. As such, these reclaimed glass jars serve as the perfect distraction to local birdlife, however, if you’ve already blown your budget on hammocks, then there’s also the option to make some yourself, for which all you’ll need is a couple of jam jars and matching numbers of coat hangers by which to suspend the jars.

3. Family Plotting

Next we have one of our more niche choices, though also probably our most sentimental, as its success depends on the contribution of the whole family. Customisable garden stakes are now available from certain suppliers that can be printed into a shape or design you specify. The example we found was a darling rendering of a 2.5 family and their dog, the heads of the stakes uphold the memory and the stakes themselves guide future saplings, quite a wonderful, if inadvertent, metaphor.

4. Butterfly Puddler

We’ve recently published several articles concerning the decline of British wildlife, more specifically the butterfly, and here we have not only a solution to this pressing ecological concern, but an attractive lure to take advantage of these marvellous insects’ comeback. The puddler essentially creates an artificial watering hole, however due to its small size it is tailored only for insects. The shallow cavity is filled with glass or rock salt and a teaspoon of water, once the fluid evaporates it leaves behind the minerals unlocked from the soluble materials and, once the butterflies know there’s a new gin joint in town, they will come back and back until the booze stops flowing.

5. Wireless Speaker

Finally, if you feel like splashing out why not give your dad music while he works, or even while he doesn’t (!), with a wireless speaker that he can tote around with him wherever he is in the garden, or in the house for that matter! This gives him freedom from extension leads or the need for expensive outdoor sockets. Just make sure he brings it in at the end of the evening, and doesn’t leave it out in the rain!

So, go on, get him something he’d really like – he’s worth it!

By Josh Ellison

Following on last week’s piece on shrubs suited for the shadier parts of the garden, this week we’re writing about those suited to sunnier spots. So without further ado let’s get started:

Abutilon suntense ‘Jermyns’

This variety of Abutilon is a semi-evergreen shrub with an upright habit - it is also extremely vigorous, meaning its large purple blooms will provide a stunning addition to your beds. For best results use a sand or loam based soil of neutral ph. level and decent drainage.

Callicarpa bodinieri giraldii ‘Profusion’

‘Beauty Berry’, as it is otherwise known, is a medium-sized, deciduous shrub with emerald green foliage, with a slightly purple tint and small lilac flowers,followed by bright purple fruits lasting all winter, that give it its common name. It should be planted in fertile, well-drained soils.

Ceanothus ‘Puget Blue’

This variety of ‘Californian Lilac’ is a large, evergreen shrub with oblong, veiny green foliage whose titular blooms appear in deep blue clutches from spring to summer. It has a spreading habit and prefers well drained, neutral soils.

Ceratostigma willmottianum ‘Forest Blue’

The marvellous ‘Forest Blue’ is a deciduous species that will spread vigorously showing dark green foliage bordered in purple accompanied by bunches of cobalt blue blooms appearing from late summer to early autumn, making it a useful addition to the border for late summer colour.

Hibiscus syriacus ‘Red Heart’

Hibiscus syriacus is an upright deciduous shrub with vigorous growth habits. It will provide toothed, dark green leaves which, during summer and autumn, will appear alongside, in the ‘Red Heart’ variety, large white flowers with, as the name suggests, a deep red centre. This plant should set in an alkaline soil in full sun with good drainage.

Myrtus communis ‘Tarentina’

The ‘Tarentum Myrtle’ is a small, dense, evergreen shrub that will bear fragrant, creamy white flowers in summer and matching fruit at the beginning of autumn. It has aromatic foliage too. It prefers a south eastern facing position in free draining soil and full sunlight.

Paeonia suffruticosa ‘Cardinal Vaughan’

The ‘Cardinal Vaughan’ variety of Paeonia suffruticosa, otherwise known as ‘Tree Peony’, is a medium-sized, deciduous shrub with upright branches. It has deep purple-pink blooms throughout late spring and early summer off-set by its lobed, green leaves. It prefers a humus rich, and full draining soil, ensuring it stays moist throughout the warmer season.

Phlomis fruticosa

Otherwise known as ‘Jerusalem Sage’, this small rounded evergreen  is so commonly named for the similarity of the two plants’ foliage, which consists of soft, furry, grey-green ovate leaves, but in this case, will be offset by hoods of yellow during the summer months.  Choose a spot away from cold winds for this one.

Pittosporum tobira

The ‘Australian Laurel’ is a tender, compact, evergreen shrub that has a bushy, upright habit and dark green foliage that, alongside its white, scented flowers in May and June, will retain its colour year round.  It prefers a rich, well-drained soil.

Romneya coulteri

The ‘Californian Tree Poppy’ is a sub-shrub, often treated as an herbaceous perennial as it will often die down in the autumn only to re-sprout in the spring and show vigorous growth to the tune of 1.5 by 2.5 metres in a season. It has blue-grey leaves from spring to autumn and poppy-like, white flowers with yellow centres from July to October. It needs a moist, but well-drained soil.

All of the above are unfortunately susceptible to the wear and tear of the English climate, particularly frost and strong winds, so make sure you give them a sunny, sheltered position in the garden – maybe against a house wall or protected by other hardy shrubs.

By Josh Ellison

‘Dads garden too’ - the motto of this editorial, encouraged somewhat by the dire lack of father’s day oriented horticultural kit, considering we are now less than a week from the day, we find it somewhat distressing how little attention, and indeed accolade, is paid to the man who, while driving the boys to football and the girls to dance class (or vice versa!) every Saturday, still finds time to tend his other ‘greener’ children.

As such, we’re listing our top choices, after scouring various retailers, for father’s day gardeners’ gifts, in the hope that this obscure niche of presents will become adequately swollen to represent the praise all these fathers deserve.

Having previously mentioned the relative non-existence of presents tailored to this idea, we’ve divided this list into two parts, the first will deal with tools for the garden and specifically things that will make the task itself easier for the recipient. The second list will deal with things that can be enjoyed in the garden including furniture and decorative items.

So, first the tools:

1. Garden Bucket Caddy

These are available relatively inexpensively, depending on the size and quality of what you’re after, and as the name describes it takes the form of any standard bucket, however, it also includes a custom made utility belt that looks like it would be more at home in the Batcave than on a lawn. They have deep pockets for all varieties of storage, mini-belts for things like trowels, forks and gloves; they also have specially design seed pockets attached that provide weather protection for said seeds.

2. Wet and Dry Blower

A bit more expensive than the caddy, these outdoor hoovers come with a detachable blower and, as their name suggests, are comfortable in dealing with run-of-the-mill lawn or bed debris as well as messy waterlogged detritus. Imagine the hours of raking and shovelling and bagging you’ll save your father with one of these convertible hand-held blowers, considering its huge 10 gallon capacity - I should guess quite a few.

3. Garden Kneeler-Come-Seat

I’d describe this next entry as essential for the active father - all that running and jumping and climbing that comes with raising hellions can play literal hell on your back and joints - similarly, as many of you can relate, to the aches and pains of gardening. Here lies your solution. This kneeler weighs in at an incredible 8 pounds while maintaining a weight bearing capacity of up to 250! Not only that but as its name suggests, this handy piece of kit can be folded to form a seat, for when the time for kneeling has finished, and the time for relaxation and enjoyment begins.

4. Aerobin Insulated Composter

Coming in at a little over £200, this is the most expensive present on our list, but if you’re feeling generous, it’s well-worth considering. The beauty of this device stems from the fact that it is completely automated. The Aerobin will instinctively register the colder weather of winter and adjust its temperature in order to maintain the optimum climate for bacterial action. As well as this, the air flow design is built vertically so that the compost effectively turns itself, freeing you, or the father in question, from the task.

5. Countertop Growlight

We move inward now while considering the final practical addition to our gardening father’s wish list, it is appropriate we do so as part two of our list will centre on the enjoyment of the garden, rather than its formation. This device is basically a simple, plug-in LED system that can be adapted to your cooker hood or countertop and therefore provide an extra space, protected from the elements, in which to raise seeds and seedlings, or to grow herbs all year round.

Tune in tomorrow for more, last-minute present ideas.

By Josh Ellison

Compost - it’s a material that all British gardeners are very familiar with - this much is evident from our consumption of over a billion bags of the stuff since 1990 – and for this reason it would be illogical and irresponsible to structure this piece as a warning. Compost comes with risks, but so does driving, and both are necessary in our modern lives.

However, recent news has been littered with outbreaks of a rare strain of Legionnaires disease and correlations have been drawn between the variety of bacteria necessary to its inception and its various sightings in the agricultural centres of the world - namely Australia and New Zealand, thus leading to a link with composts.

Apparently the strain, which is known as ‘Legionella longbeachae’, has a long history of association with compost in these countries and now it seems that the symptoms are beginning to affect gardeners in Scotland. 

Being the only common factor all these cases despite distance, lifestyle and climate, the responsibility has fallen to the penchant for greenfingers that they all share, and, as such, experts like Dr. Martin Donaghy, are warning gardeners to ensure they wash their hands thoroughly - particularly before eating or smoking.  

Those affected by the disease have exhibited pneumonia-like symptoms and while they’ve done so in Australasia for decades before now, they’ve only begun appearing in Scotland in the last five years, and even then at a rate of less than one confirmed case per year. The spate of recent cases therefore causes some concern.

However, this also presents one of the greatest anomalies about the event, the fact that out of all of the UK only Scotland has been affected. Since there is no consistent difference in the soil content between Scotland and the rest of Britain, this irregularity has previously been attributed to a combination of misdiagnoses and subsequently unreported cases. Doctors across the British Isles have now been warned in conjunction with the Scottish health services to be vigilant of any unusual pneumonia cases combined with coughing, headaches or diarrhoea. Unfortunately, despite its scarcity, this disease is already known to have claimed one life - a statistic made all the more tragic by the relative simplicity of treatment, which consists only of a basic antibiotics cycle.

However, stories like these are nothing new. It has long been the plight of gardeners to run the gauntlet of bacteria and parasites inherent to their work, ranging from the sharper edges of abandoned detritus to animal faeces, and legionnaires isn’t the only affliction that nestles in compost. Consider, after all, what is compost essentially, a bunch of decomposing organic matter that is kept extremely warm and damp during its production. Environments such as these can lead to the propagation of not only legionnaire’s bacteria but other, similarly nefarious, afflictions such as toxoplasmosis or hook worm. However, these latter two cannot be contracted directly from soil contact, rather they are found in animal faeces, and they must be allowed entry to the blood stream. This can occur in a number of ways from particles of soil being inhaled or ingested during gardening or, more commonly, via injuries sustained from detritus like broken nails and glass.

The ailments, however, that are contractible from soil alone, include tetanus, which can lead to muscular spasms and ‘lock jaw’. Toxoplasmosis, meanwhile, can lead to brain and eye damage, particularly in those with a compromised immune system. Pregnant women are told to be particularly careful. Swollen lymph nodes are also a good indication as well as other infections. Hookworm, on the other hand is a parasite and nasty little devil at that - by infecting the digestive system they can cause protein deficiencies that lead to anaemia and their larvae can also invade the skin causing non-fatal lesions.

I know this description reads more like a description of a petri dish, however, don’t fret about these ailments, for they can all be easily avoided by judicious use of gloves and hand soap and, despite the threat of these symptoms, it is important to remember what Dr. Donaghy has to say concerning the phenomenon - ‘gardening is a very healthy hobby, but like anything in life there are a few risks…’

By Josh Ellison

Following on from last week’s update on this year’s Chelsea Flower Show, we wanted to include a piece concerning your, the ‘people’s’, choice winners. Every year the Royal Horticultural Society awards two designers with this auspicious title based on the many thousands of votes they receive from the public. The people’s choice award is unique in the Chelsea flower show for being the accolade with an external adjudication process.

This has been something of a watershed year for the People’s Choice due to the sheer volume of involvement from voters - opinions were received in their tens of thousands and were eventually whittled down to two finalists. The winners of this year’s People’s Choice awards were the Arthritis Research UK Garden (Show gardens), as designed by Mr. Tom Hoblyn, and The Bronte’s’ Yorkshire Garden (Small gardens), that was devised by Ms. Tracy Foster.

Hoblyn states that the genesis for his design can be found in the court gardens of renaissance Europe, specifically Villa Lante and Villa d’Este, and that these were the motivation behind the space’s uniformity and the strict division of colours to be found between its abundance of white marble paving and its emerald hedges. This segregation is also signified by the diverse use of water and also of its Mediterranean planting scheme - particularly the cypress trees -  which lend a dramatic height to the space. The project was initiated by the charity as a means to celebrate its 75th anniversary, however, Hoblyn’s garden is not only inspired by arthritis, but its design is catered to the condition itself and particularly to would-be horticulturalists who feel too inhibited by the condition to cultivate a garden.

The marble walkways for example, aside from being aesthetically pleasing, also play the crucial role of providing a solid and even surface that can easily be traversed by the wheelchair-bound or to those who feel unstable on rough ground. These paths, however, act only as conduits to the beds of the garden and, to ensure the minimal amount of stretching and precarious balance, Hoblyn recommends using exclusively raised beds and to tailor the width, to guarantee they’ll be accessible from both sides, and also the height, to coincide within your own.

Tracy Foster’s people’s choice entrant took a decidedly more traditional tone, although one quality the two winners shared was the celebratory impetus that stemmed from the anniversaries each was commemorating. In Ms. Foster’s case it was the 165th anniversary of one of the most successful publishing years for the titular sisters and, as such, the garden’s planting scheme and layout were largely inspired by the Yorkshire countryside that plays such a crucial role in the Brontes’ fiction. 

Accordingly, the garden places a heavy focus on naturalism, which is evoked by its cobblestone paths and the roughly trod stream that divides it.

Of course, you may not have voted for these particular gardens, or at all, but it’s easy to see why they were so popular and why they clinched these awards.

By Josh Ellison

It has probably become apparent that, unless you’re quite well off, or lucky enough to be situated in a rural area of Britain, the advice we dispense every week on garden maintenance is probably reserved exclusively for the area behind your house. While it is, of course, a positive thing if any area of your home supports a large amount of wildlife, there is also an increasing responsibility to make sure that your front garden is just as ecologically sound. Therefore, we’ve tailored this piece specifically toward the potential advantages, if not necessity, of not simply paving or laying concrete over your front garden as so many people have done.

The key problem with paving our front gardens comes when the neighbours opposite us do the same, as this effectively triples (including the immediate roadway and pavements) the hard surfaced area of a given section of the street. Of course, concrete and mortar are not materials famous for being porous, so this equates to a threefold increase of impermeable surfaces that rainwater must be diverted from, thus increasing in some cases by 50% the run-off to nearby drains, which simply cannot cope.

After a study undertaken by the London Assembly, aerial photography has revealed that over 12 square miles of the capital’s green space have been paved over in collective front gardens. In fact, a study commissioned by the RHS shows that in the entirety of south east England over 20% of front gardens are three quarters paved.

In the majority of British communities this surplus rainwater runoff is less of a problem, as generally it can be redirected to storm drains and eventually river systems, however, in London our contingency plan for unmanageable flood waters is to flush the overflow directly into the Thames, a failsafe that in 2004 cost the Thames over 100,000 of its indigenous fish population.

Though slightly less detrimental in our temperate climate, the absence of well dispersed plant matter (particularly in urban areas where energy output is high) can also lead to a surplus of heat being dispersed into the locality. The dense materials used in paving are excellent at absorbing heat from the sun or from vehicular output during the day time; however, unlike plants they have no means of converting this to other types of energy and so, once the environment cools in the evening, the stone releases all the heat it has accumulated into the air around it.

Of course, the major concern for many of us in cities, and thus the motivation behind paving one’s front garden, stems from a lack of available space to park one’s car. With residential areas becoming increasingly stringent about the guidelines on where you can and can’t park, the driveway is a practical solution.

However, who says you can’t have both? With the government’s stipulations for permeable materials for all new drives, many more options have now become available. We are all familiar with the traditional gravel drive, and with block-paving, but there is also the fairly recent development of ‘resin bound’ or ‘bonded aggregate’, which is a mix of the aggregate of your choice with cold resin, which when laid leaves tiny air pockets for drainage. Reinforced lawn is another, simpler option whereby the turf is laid with plastic mesh to prevent wear.

You could, of course, use a mix of surface materials, or introduce some curves to the design to make for more interest too.  However, the trick is in the segregation between parking space and garden, so as to prevent the ‘NCP’ look!

If there’s room, you could plant flower beds either side of a driveway, or even plant into the driveway itself, between the wheel tracks, with spreading alpine planting, provided the car is out most of the day so as not to shade them.  Don’t forget the verticals too – house or boundary walls can take colourful or scented climbers to brighten up a sea of hard landscaping, whilst not taking up too much space. Even a couple of pots of cheap and cheerful annuals either side of your front door can brighten up a dull driveway.

So, you see it is now possible house biomass and a 2 litre in the same space, so get your thinking caps on and see what you could do to improve your front garden, not just for your own benefit, but for that of passers-by too!

By Josh Ellison

Despite the beautiful weather we’ve been enjoying this past week or two, we must also consider the dreary months of weather that preceded it and whether our plants are of the ilk to take best possible advantage of the shady days, as well as the sunny ones. As such, we present a selection of shade loving shrubs that, during the off-season of the year, will flourish while their counterparts await sol’s return.

Aucuba crotonifolia

The Japanese Laurel is a compact evergreen shrub with broad bright green leaves splashed with yellow  year round, and small yellow and green flowers in the spring and early summer, followed by red berries that the birds love. They are easy to grow and fairly non-preferential to soil type, provided it is not totally waterlogged.

Euonymus radicans

These are low-growing evergreens which can be grown either as ground cover, or clinging to walls like ivy and, depending on which variety you choose, foliage can be green, or variegated with yellow, white, or even pink! Because of their spreading habit, they are useful grown on sloping sites – for example to cover a bank, or as decoration to a descending pathway. Any soil type is fine.

Fatsia japonica

This glossy-leaved evergreen is a large shrub with striking, dark green foliage in all seasons, along with large, candelabra-like, creamy-white flowers in the autumn. It is not fussy about soil type and makes a bold statement in any garden.

Hypericum calycinum

Also referred to as the ‘Rose of Sharon’, Hypericum is a fast spreading evergreen shrub with dark green lance shaped leaves that are accompanied by vibrant yellow flowers in the summertime. These will be succeeded by a dark red fruit in the autumn provided the plant is kept well watered and sheltered.

Mahonia aquifolium

This is a fast-growing evergreen that displays shiny, holly-like leaves highlighted in the spring by clusters of bright yellow flowers, before the foliage itself deepens to purple in winter. Due to their habit, we would suggest this as a dense and beautiful ground cover - and their resistance to pollution also makes them suited to an urban garden.

Osmanthus heterophyllus

The other name for Osmanthus is ‘False Holly’ and it’s not difficult to see why as this medium-sized evergreen has small, holly-like leaves highlighted by white, jasmine-scented September flowers. The maintenance rule that applies is a well drained, sheltered positioning.

Pachysandra terminalis

The ‘Japanese Spurge’ is a slow growing, evergreen sub-shrub that will form rosettes of glossy, emerald leaves. Its neat shape and clusters of upright blooms make it ideal for growth beneath larger canopy trees and shrubs and, as it is mat forming, the spurge can be extremely effective as a filler, or ground cover plant.

Skimmia japonica

Skimmia is a small, white flowered, evergreen shrub that will also provide red berries in the autumn if male and female varieties are planted, although it is important to note that these fruits are inedible. The flowers are scented and appear in spring. Grow this one if you have acid soil.

Symphoricarpos

The ‘Common Snowberry’ is a rampant, thicket-forming, deciduous shrub composed of slender, arching shoots that will bear bunches of ovate, dark green leaves. These will be accompanied by a summer’s worth of clustered, bell shaped, pink or white flowers and these are succeeded by large, marble-like pink or white fruits that last well into winter. It will grow in any reasonable soil in sun or shade.

Viburnum davidii

This is an evergreen shrub with a compact habit and it sports leathery, deeply-veined, dark green leaves upon which sit flat, white flower heads, and these are followed by turquoise berries. They prefer soils of moderate fertility that are well-drained and rich in humus.

With the aid of this list you are now equipped to create a garden of all weathers, one where shade and sun bring healthy flowers in equal measure. Just because you have a shady garden, or a shady side to your garden, doesn’t mean you can’t have an interesting, colourful and fragrant one.

By Josh Ellison

Despite the exponentially increasing efforts of various ecological bodies like the Forestry Commission to preserve the wildlife of the UK, the statistics are still singing a tale of doom. In previous articles we’ve discussed the importance of encouraging wildlife into our own gardens, however, the British Isles ecology is now under threat on a far larger scale it seems. The species of particular importance are insects. We’ve figuratively beaten to death, on this space, the crucial role that honey bees play in the pollination of our crops and how necessary butterflies are to the health of our flower population, however, according to a recent study led by the FC, their numbers are still in decline, due to a heavy-handed approach to woodland restoration.

The study was centred on the quality of some of the largest forests in the Welsh countryside, where it was confirmed that, while their size was more than sufficient to sustain a healthy eco-system, the plants were so overgrown and the canopy so dense that the amount of sunlight able to reach the forest floor, and thus the primary link in the environment’s food chain, fell tragically short of what was needed.

From school we all learned the basics of a functioning eco-system, the provider (plants) feeds the herbivore which in turn feeds the carnivore, however, the providers of a forest environment, except perhaps in tropical climates, is almost exclusively ground-cover plants. Without flowering plants at ground level, insect species have no consistent food source and without these the pyramid of biomass topples. Due to the rising occurrence of ‘dark woods’, as found by the Forestry Commission, the national bird count for Wales is at its lowest point since 1970, and across the UK butterfly numbers are down 56%.

There is a myriad of different causes for this development among our woodlands, but some of the most preached include the decline of traditional woodland management, the incorrect correlation of species with their potential environments and bunk mates, and also the lack of care taken in containing agricultural runoff.

Aside from the absence of animal life, this growing darkness among forests has caused a worrying decline in Britain’s wildflower populace and one conservation charity warns that one in ten native woodland flowers is now under threat of extinction in Wales alone. Consequently the focus has fallen now on the quality, rather than the quantity of their environments. One of the major steps in restoring Wales’ woodlands to their former glory will be in increasing general thinning, a process based around trimming the canopies of these areas, thus allowing more sunlight to reach the undergrowth.

"We are committed to managing sensitive sites for the benefit of biodiversity and the conservation of priority species and habitats," a spokesman said.

A new ecological body has also been designated the responsibility for the restoration of Plantations on Ancient Woodlands Sites (PAWS) to native woodlands. Part of the FC’s new initiative involves extended research into dormouse behaviour within a predominantly conifer woodland and further means to preserve the butterfly population in the hopes that they eventually return to their former abundance.

By Josh Ellison

Last week saw this year’s Chelsea Flower Show, an event of special significance for one of its garden’s sponsors, Brewin and Dolphin, for they were celebrating their 250th anniversary. So, with an eye to our horticultural heritage, we thought it appropriate to research the history of the Chelsea Flower Show, its beginnings and how it progressed to what it is today.

The event began formally as ‘The Great Spring Show’ in 1862 and was originally based in the RHS gardens at Kensington, although the society had been hosting flower shows from its Chiswick headquarters for several years before then, which had themselves been preceded by less formal gatherings such as fetes. The reasoning behind the sudden upheaval and exodus from Chiswick was largely due to the poor public transportation of the era, which prevented many from visiting the area and had therefore seen a decline in the show’s popularity, something that was remedied by the newer and more central location. However, after twenty six years at Kensington, the show was moved again to Temple gardens which, due to the historical legacy it had inherited, were felt more suited to the task.

Having moved to Temple in 1888, the society was now free to lease their sites at Kensington to house more subject-specific exhibitions, such as the Coronation Rose Show of 1902, although this show was only partially successful due to a high level of interest, but a noticeable absence of roses! 1905 saw the show’s first involvement with the Chelsea Hospital and, after three popular years at Holland House, Kensington, the show was permanently moved to the hospital grounds to afford more space for exhibitors.

By the roaring 1920’s these humble beginnings had blossomed into an institution, the famous Chelsea tea parties were established and royal visits to the show became commonplace - much to the enjoyment of exhibitors, guests and press affiliates.

This year’s entrants, however, were a far cry from the exhibitors of old - the ‘Best Show Garden’ was the afore-mentioned Brewin and Dolphin’s commemorative garden, wherein designer Cleve West celebrated the company’s 250th anniversary with an assortment of carefully pruned metaphors. Mr. West stated that the Yew and Beech hedging were there to symbolise the company’s continued stability and structure, whereas the surrounding herbaceous plants were representative of its creativity.

There was a new category at Chelsea this year – that of ‘Fresh Garden’ and designer Tony Smith secured the ‘Best Garden’ award in this category with his depiction of envy and desire in his ‘Green With..’ garden. The thematic structure of this display is derived from both its planting choices and the layout that has been applied to them. Smith has imprisoned a trio of Orchid flowers in Perspex towers in order to segregate them from contact with their viewers, though many of us would be content in just seeing and smelling the flower, it is the choice of tactility that makes us take it for granted.

The Satoyama garden by Ishihara Kazuyuki Design Laboratory Co is one of the more culturally focused projects this year, as it is named, literally, for an area of Japan that was famed for its rural integration with civil amenity. The garden therefore exhibits a microcosm of the way of life that ruled the Sotoyama region. The naturally sourced stone and wood pathways and integration of nature and architecture reflect this and indeed reflect an attitude toward nature that is sorely missed in modern living.

The show was, as usual, an absolute delight – now looking forward to Hampton Court in July!

By Josh Ellison

As promised, we’ll be covering in this piece the variety of more luxurious and perhaps extravagant additions that can be made to one’s personal outdoors. The Grand Designs show, as its title would suggest, paid host to a variety of different companies specialising in exciting structures designed to fit any catering or hospitality need and, whilst perhaps not the most important elements in the environmental scheme of things, and despite the sometimes astronomical cost of these additions, they do make for worthy column space when considering the tastes of the consummate gardener. After all, if you’d spend thousands on a car or extension, then why not on your garden?

There were two major companies at Grand Designs competing for these attentions. The first was ‘Oceans Outdoor Living’, which specialised in woven outdoor furniture. However, to leave its mission statement at that, would be to do them a great disservice. Oceans were exhibiting a variety of furniture that I was lucky enough to look at and to enjoy after a hard days stomp around Custom House. 

Some of the pieces I saw were opulent bordering on outrageous, for example, the design team had formulated entire three piece suites suited to outdoor conditions, including sun loungers , banquet tables and day beds-complete with a fold down cover to protect prospective nappers from the elements. However, the stand-out at Oceans exhibit was the presence of a four-man Tee Pee durable enough to remain a permanent outdoor installation.

The other competitor vying for domestic supremacy was The Breeze House Group, who provided a special focus on gazebos and pavilions and offered the very top of the line in construction and maintenance. Their motifs, however, are not confined to the structure, but rather the ecology of the entire garden, tailoring your planting scheme to fit the architecture of their centrepieces which are available in Safari, Oasis and colonial themes. While they do make for beautiful structures and more than comfortable entertainment spaces, they are pricey decisions not to be made frivolously, with costs ranging between £4,000 (for the basic models) up to £20,000 for the Empire motif.

Finally, on a minor note there was a smaller exhibition made by Sticks & Stone as a kind of tertiary addition to the larger scaled elements that Ocean and Breeze House offered - what living space, indoor or out, would be complete without a functioning wine rack? Sticks & Stone specialise in uniquely carved solid wood or stone wine racks, which again can be tailored to suit your needs.

So there we have it for Grand Design and for Ecobuild 2012, I hope that you’ve found these editorials informing or at the very least ,slightly enticing and remember that whether trying to be more ecologically friendly or simply catering a space for yourself, like anything, you only get out what you put in.

By Josh Ellison

Previously we discussed the viability of the night time garden and also promised a piece detailing the ways in which you can outfit your property to be more environmentally friendly, as witnessed by the products and practices exhibited at two of London’s largest ecological and domestic shows - Ecobuild and Grand Designs respectively.

Now with the recent trend, well necessity, for ecological conscience, in the previous decade, we have been so bombarded by advertisements, that concepts such as solar panelling or recycled turf will seem all too obvious to even the most pedestrian gardener.  Despite this I found myself surprised and enlightened leaving Custom House’s conferences and felt compelled to share what I had seen there, and the meticulousness and microcosmic attitude with which the environment is currently being catered to.

My major inspiration stems from a pair of self-described eco warriors named Jim Sanderson and his cohort Gary, who were representing their company Eco-flooring and Restoration UK at Grand Designs 2012. Their company is based around the reclamation of disused flooring and timber and rejuvenating those materials for later use, with an aim to save ten thousand trees worth of biomass - a goal they are well en route to achieving, having already saved a thousand trunks. I was fortunate to glean a few words from the pair between their demonstrations to a throng of other onlookers, where they aptly dubbed the work they’re doing as ‘No imitation, pure restoration’. 

One of the key attractions of the restored parquet, Jim agreed, is the antiquity that the wood demonstrates and which can never be reproduced. The company will also produce custom designs and seals (we were privy to opulent coats of arms and even Superman’s iconic ‘S’ insignia) and has had past contracts with Rise Hall and Empire studios, home to outfits like The Arctic Monkeys and The Kings of Leon.

A secondary function of the company is as a supporter and contributor to the British charity ‘Soldier On’ which specialises in aiding the transition of injured servicemen and women to civilian working life, by promoting the life skills that armed forces training has instilled in them, such as discipline, organisation and determination.

As the introductory title suggests, this article is focusing on the more obscure branches of ecological building, and next we’ll be discussing the possibilities of home-installed heat pumps. While this development sees its greatest investment during the design phase of construction of the home, it is important to note that companies such NIBE (Ecobuild 2012) will install post construction, and with the savings to be made to both environment and wallet, it’s incumbent upon us to share our findings.

The company has over thirty years of operational experience in its home country of Sweden, where installations such as these have been mandatory to new residential developments since the 1980s. The basic concept consists of heat extractors installed in the ‘wet rooms’ of the house i.e. the bathroom and kitchen, which recycle heat energy from exhausted air through ventilators and dispels the cold air to the outside. It’s easy to get lost in the jargon, I know I did, but what it equates to essentially is much less energy spent heating your home and thus an electricity bill less than half of what you’d be paying without the pumps. Good eh?

Finally, to demonstrate the range in scale of these ecological initiatives, I want to discuss a company called Balcony Systems Solutions that at the Grand Designs conference, introduced to me the idea of Advanced Glass Protection. The glass sheets of windows and doors are susceptible to the absorption of grime and pollutants, not to mention the wear and tear of hard water exposure - in other words glass gets dirty and it gets old and as a result loses its transparency.  While the AGP is not a permanent solution to this problem it does greatly increase life span of glass panelling, not to mention reduce the cleaning cycle of the glass 50-90%, and water conservation is therefore an excellent by-product of that characteristic.

So these are just some of the ways in which companies are joining the ecological battle for our planet.

In the next and final segment based around my visits to recent London shows, we’ll be discussing the possibilities of outdoor furnishing and annex structures like pavilions and huts and motifs that include architectural Americana such as the Tee Pee.

By Josh Ellison

Annual plants are an excellent way of bringing colour into your garden and, as any gardening centre will tell you, the best time for sowing them is in the height of spring from March to early June, so here at the end of May it is not too late for planting to provide late summer bloomers. Below you’ll find a list of such species that are especially simple to establish and maintain.

Calendula offinalis

Known commonly as the ‘English Marigold’, the ‘Princess’ variety of this cultivar has an upright growth habit and somewhat reminiscent of a Daisy/Sunflower hybrid showing large, vivid blooms in gold and yellow with black centres. They prefer light, free draining soil in either full sunlight or partial shade and have no preference in terms of acidity.

Centaurea cyaneus

The ‘Cornflower’ is a fairly historical annual having a reputation as the flower of the Armistice and as such often toted symbolically during commemorations of the First World War, particularly those of the sapphire hue. Like the Marigold they are uprights however they prefer a heavier soil content, predominantly loam, and full sunlight.

Eschscholzia californica

‘Californian Poppy’ goes by many names and it’s not difficult to see how this beautiful cultivar earned handles like ‘Cup of Gold’ and ‘California Sunlight’, as they are possessed of vibrant flute-like blooms in red, orange and yellow throughout summer and autumn. They go for conditions similar to those of the Cornflower, particularly for an abundance of sunlight to best take advantage of their colouring.

Godetia grandiflora

‘Satin Flower’ is a dwarf annual with a bushy habit and Azalea-like flowers that will show in the white/pink spectrum and  whose other name ‘Little Frills’ is exemplified by the shape of their petals. It prefers acidic, well-drained soil with a heavy element, such as loam or clay.

Lathyrus odoratus

Lathyrus, or ‘Sweet Pea’, is a climbing annual and the ‘Lord Nelson’ variety will show small, dark blue flowers and a distinctive accompanying scent. They prefer a well-drained, sandy soil and full sunlight with minimal exposure to the elements.

Limnanthes douglasii

The oddly titled ‘Poached Egg Flower’, is grown for its titular colours and fern-like foliage; it has a clump forming habit and will continue to bloom through late summer to early autumn. Limnanthes prefers full sunlight in an exposed position and will tolerate most soil types.

Lobularia maritima

Commonly reffered to as ‘Sweet Alyssum’, the Lobularia variety ‘Rosie O’ Day’ is  a compact, mat-forming annual that will show silvery green foliage and pink or purple flowers throughout summer complete with a rich honey aroma which will attract hoverflies and other insects. They prefer moderately fertile, well-drained soil in a sunny position.

Nigella damascene

‘Love-in-a-Mist’, as Nigella is otherwise known, is a tall growing annual with midnight blue flowers joining at a spiked centre composed of black seed pods. As you’d expect it has an upright growth habit and prefers full sunlight.

Papaver commutatum

The ‘Ladybird Poppy’ garners its title from the colouring of the petals of its flowers, as, whilst it sports the deep scarlet of any poppy, this is also offset by black to dark brown blotches near the epicentre of the plant. They prefer a loam based soil in full sun with a sheltered position from the wind.

Tropaeolum majiis

The common ‘Nasturtium’, one of the most eclectic among annual flowers with a rich variety of colouring, shape and size though they all share one common denominator: their ability to spread, either as climbers, or ground cover. Available in reds, oranges, creams and yellows they make one of the consummate additions to any annual garden and as such prefer full sun whenever possible and as much support as can be feasibly provided.

And so here ends our roster of annuals, each popular for their beauty, hardiness and relative simplicity to grow, we hope you find as much success with them as we have.

By Josh Ellison

The week before last  I was lucky enough to attend Custom House’s Grand Designs convention, wherein over a thousand different exhibitors displayed a range of new products, techniques and disciplines, applicable not only to interior design and decoration but also (on a smaller scale) to horticulture and outdoor decoration.

In this regard, the overall focus largely fell to the advertisement of commercial ventures such as outdoor furniture (which will be covered in our next segment) or ecological building alternatives, but there was one exhibit that struck me as particularly unique - that of a night-based garden.

The impetus of the design lay in the philosophy that due to the hectic lifestyle required to support a grand outdoor space, many of us don’t get the choice to enjoy our garden during the daytime - ironic no? So, ‘The 24 Hour Garden’, as it was so aptly named, was built with not only its lit aesthetic in mind, but also the applications it might promise after hours, particularly those of hosting and catering.

It seemed a topic not oft discussed in conventional garden design, so I wanted to set aside some blog space to suggest how one might go about building your own garden whose usefulness is complete, regardless of whether the clock reads lunchtime or late-o-clock.

Lighting

Despite the night garden being traditionally a dimmed place, lighting is an essential component to make the space both useable in the summer months, and visually accessible in the winter. Like the palette you choose for your planting, lighting is, at best, a subtle art, meaning that although it is a characteristic of the day time there is no need for yours to be reminiscent of blazing sunshine. Indeed, as any photographer will tell you, the nightscape provides lighting opportunities not available when sunlight is abundant - hence the attraction of black and white celluloid where the light becomes a means of punctuation rather than the prose itself. 

The beauty of modern lighting is the variety of different forms it comes in: stairway lighting, underwater illumination, overhead down-lighters or vertical up-lighters, not to mention those concealed within the plants themselves.  This latter is a popular option as it helps negate the tone of artificiality that the plastics and metals of a lighting system evoke. 

The underwater light is also a marvellous addition to the night garden which, while not particularly functional, gives an access to view any wildlife inhabiting your ponds you might not otherwise be privy to.

However, the likely motivation for building or adapting a night garden is so that you have the means and the place to entertain and to relax after hours and to this end I would also recommend, either recessed walkover floor lighting, or focal point spot lighting rather than harsh floodlighting as is so often seen in gardens. 

Floor lighting is a softer option and will not be a threatening trip hazard in the twilight, particularly with the use of frosted lenses,  while spotlighting will lend a glamorous red-carpet feel to not only the garden but to any tree canopies above it too.

Furniture

So, assuming the garden is to be a place of hospitality, and now we’ve established how you and your guests will find their way around it, we must next discuss what it is they’ll be finding their way around.

A seating area should be one of your first considerations, mainly because unlike the lighting, its value will not be detracted by the absence of darkness - you can enjoy a quiet sit down as much on your days off, as after your days on. Comfortable seating, whether free-standing or built-in is a must and we’ll discuss this in a later article. 

You might also want to making this a dining area, with the addition of a barbeque or chiminea, or even a small scale bar or outdoor kitchen, if you’re budget will accommodate. In any case there’s no feeling comparable to cooking, preparing and dining in the outdoors and as such, this  should definitely be considered.

General Aesthetic

Finally, we have the presentation of the garden itself and how we can make best use of the elements of night, whilst still ensuring that the site is picturesque in the daytime and for this reason I must reiterate the use of water. Lights will capture the sparkle of moving water as it falls, but there are few natural elements better paired then the blackness of still water at night, and the moon and stars reflection within it. It gives fluidity to an arcane archetype of our culture, indigenous to the mythology of our ancestors. 

Candles or lanterns also take us back to our ancient roots, and make an excellent addition to the night garden for the magical and transient quality of their light.

Wind chimes are also highly effective in the night garden, partly due to their taking advantage of what might be an uncomfortably chill breeze, but mostly due to their obscurity when placed correctly. By semi-concealing the chimes you’ll lend an air of mystery to the space as guests will not be able to place their songs’ origin. If, however, you prefer more contemporary tunes, why not install some unobtrusive speakers in your garden and enjoy all your favourite music while you entertain.

In our next article concerning the Grand Designs exposition, we’ll be discussing the various materials and devices that were on show, both at Grand Designs and its previous counterpart Ecobuild, that can be implemented to make your homes and green spaces more eco-friendly.

By Josh Ellison

There are a variety of different reasons for establishing definite and long term boundaries around your garden and these can include privacy, security (from natural, as well as human threats) or just protection for  your garden against animals who may wish to make your planting scheme a part of their food chain!

Any way you cut it, there’s plenty of justification for defining your borders, so the only difficult decision is the manner in which you do it. Of course, as is the custom with all tough decisions, this is where the options become really varied, because as a near essential function within any successful domestic garden, the techniques of bordering have become a saturated market, with each proprietor eager to flog his or her variation on the same idea.

Walls

Drystone Wall

Flint wall

Old London red brick wall

The major variable with building a garden wall can revolve around one’s locality, in that, depending on where you’re situated, certain materials will be far more convenient and cheaper to obtain. The style of construction will also affect the ease of your build - we all know that flat, straight edged stones or bricks are superior for their long term durability, however, the style of the area you live may dictate a more naturalistic approach - dry-stone walling or flint, for example. One of the advantages of natural stones is that, while man-made materials deteriorate over time, the preliminary layers of natural stone will strip away under weathering to expose yet richer colouring. Wonderful old red brick can also look beautiful in a traditional setting and, for front gardens particularly, with the addition of wrought iron railings, can look great.

Alternatively, there’s also the option of contemporary, rendered block-work walling - though out of their element in a naturalistically designed, countryside garden, in an urban environment they can provide a sustainable and reasonably cheap alternative to stone or brick.

‘Hempcrete’ is another alternative to concrete blocks and, for those with an eye to sustainability, it is an excellent choice. It is made, as its name suggests, with a mix of hemp and lime and is completely biodegradable. At the end of its life, it can simply be chopped up and composted. I have something of a bias on this because it is a material that Floral & Hardy used extensively in their excursion to Hampton Court Flower Show in 2008. So, for the eco-conscious, Hempcrete may be the way to go as, not only is it sturdy and attractive, it is also totally recyclable.

Fencing

The advantages of fencing over a garden wall are fairly obvious, in that traditional wooden fencing is not only more sustainable than concrete or brick, it is also considerably cheaper, both in materials and labour to build. It is also softer on the eye. However, as with the walling option, fencing can be just as, if not more, varied in its approaches. 

Waney panel fence

Shiplap panel fence

Trellis and panel fence

Perhaps the cheapest form of fence panel is the ‘waney’ panel, which has horizontal slats of timber, however, it tends not to be very long lasting. 

Shiplap is a type of fencing abbreviated from the overlapping style of ship building and, as such, its style is defined by a number of horizontal, or more commonly vertical, slats overlapping one another within an oblong framework and is one of the most common forms of fencing in the UK. 

Other, more fancy panelling is a technique that is so eclectic that it has become as much a part of landscape design as it has interior design, lending either a contemporary or traditional feel, whatever your preference.

Though leaving you somewhat more exposed than solid block fencing, trellis is also an excellent choice for your borders, as it’ll allow more light into the garden as well as provide support to climbing plants.

Now, in contrast to the previous entrants of the fencing list, the picket fence, the split rail and the wire fence definitely allow prying eyes in, rather than keep them out, as the element that the three have in common is the evident gaps between their solid materials. The white picket fence has become almost a character unto itself in idyllic suburbia, and there’s no guessing as to why as, aside from the innocence exuded from its characteristic hue, the picket fence indicates openness with those viewing your garden, and a pride in what it is they’ll be viewing beyond the fence.

Hedging

This journalist has done to death the ecological benefits of maintaining a healthy hedge and won’t waste another character covering the subject here. All I will say is that hedgerows are easily maintained, extremely cost effective and characteristically very rewarding because you, the gardener, have had the benefit of seeing them grow from the ground up. They can provide habitats for wildlife and a softer look to the boundary. However, it is important to note which species you plan to use before beginning development of this border and while the evergreen species, such as Laurel, Yew and Privet, possess the obvious advantage of being a year round plant and thus providing a reliable source of privacy and security it is important to note that the deciduous varieties, including Beech and Hawthorn, have their place too and provide welcome changes through the seasons.

Miscellaneous

Finally, there are newer innovations such as glass or fibreglass panels, either clear or opaque, and which also come in many colours, which would provide a windbreak as well as screening in a contemporary space. Think of opaque glass balustrading for your balcony, or panels separating different areas of the garden, whilst still allowing light through and the shadows of interesting foliage plants to play on the glass.

So the choice is yours, but one thing’s for sure, boundaries don’t have to be boring!

By Josh Ellison

Continuing on, as promised, from last week’s article which began this title race for, what could be considered ‘the greatest garden design standing’, we now have for you numbers 6-10 of the premier league of horticulture. As with the first section, our aim has been to maintain the standard of excellence set by the likes of Chateau de Versailles, whilst also providing the most eclectic list possible, based on cultural difference and individuality.

Singapore Botanic Gardens 

Probably the most high-maintenance project amid our reviews, the Singapore Botanic Gardens, support one of the largest cultured collections of Orchid on the planet. Divided into three sections with each one allocated a different task within a comparatively small area (128 acres), the first of these is known as the ‘Tanglin Core’ and is centred around heritage and entertainment - as epitomised by the presence of many an ancient statue and a seasonal bandstand. The ‘Bukit Timah Core’ specialises in education and recreational activities, however, it is the ‘Centre Core’ that really assumes the jewel in the gardens’ crown. This is where the Orchid beds are situated and continue to house over 60,000 species of the notoriously difficult to cultivate flower.

Sanssouci Park (Germany)

Originally built as a decorative piece to accompany Emperor Frederick the Great of Prussia’s palace in Postdam, Sanssouci Park is considered one of Versailles great rivals in the European horticultural arena. Whilst it cannot compete either in terms of size, nor grandeur, Sanssouci’s grounds are no less ornate.  After the palace was completed, and its immediate grounds terraced and planted, sights were set on the park which was converted into a baroque flower garden complete with lawns, flowers and hedgerows.

Taj Mahal (India)

Easily the most recognisable site on our list, the Taj Mahal Gardens were a technical miracle of their time, employing the Mughal garden style which was the standard of its locale. There is a central column of water that stretches from the tomb to the plinth, however, the construction is so precise as to reflect the palace across the surface of the water. The aforementioned Mughal style bears some resemblance to its European counter parts with the strict discipline of geometry that it adheres to, particularly where the shapes and dimensions of its numerous flower beds are concerned.

Butchart, British Columbia (Canada)

The site of Butchart began its life as a commercial quarry near the turn of the century, but once the limestone had been exhausted, the owner of Portland Cement’s wife transformed the pit into a huge flower garden with different areas devoted to different disciplines. Today the gardens’ 22 acres and some 700 varying species attract a cool million visitors per year. However, these figures cannot be attributed solely to the horticulture, but also to the majestic light displays that occur that far north of Kansas.

Sigiriya (Sri Lanka)

Sigiriya could be argued to be the oldest surviving garden on earth, with some historians dating its construction as early as the fifth century A.D. and as such has long held the title of a World Heritage Site, with impunity to future development or demolition. Aside from the breathtaking scope, rich and lengthy heritage, or the history that one of many tour guide will be happy to impart, Sigiriya also boasts some of the most beautiful sculpture work of the last two thousand years. Gigantic animals paws straddle either side of a majestic stone stairway, each only comprising three digits, a fact that only heightens the mysterious ‘lost world’ quality that your surroundings will evoke.

…And a bonus!

Hanging Gardens (Babylon/Iraq)

Obviously we couldn’t really include this garden on our list as it is no longer possible to visit, however, being the only one to have the title of World Wonder, it does deserve at least an honourable mention. Estimated to have been constructed around 590 BC, the gardens were an on-going project of the city state of Babylon, reported to have employed what were then futuristic irrigation methods that by modern calculation would have required a minimum of 8000 gallons a day to maintain. King Nebuchadnezzar II was also purported to have used leviathan slabs of stone as the gardens foundation to prevent the water from eroding the ground.

And so ends our list of the Top 10 Gardens to visit, if this piece should impart anything it is this: horticulture is a practice as old as the plants themselves, and such a wide expanse of our history and our relationship to nature should be treated with the same respect as any art form, and sought out just as rigorously.

By Josh Ellison

Flying the Flag

 

 

 

One of the major headlines that have dominated the domestic press runs this year has been Her Majesty’s Diamond Jubilee, the celebration of Queen Elizabeth II’s 60th year on the throne - a feat only achieved once before, by her grandmother Victoria. And her celebratory tour of the country, and, more particularly, her visit this week to our local borough of Bromley, has spurred us to write this piece.

There have of course been many efforts to commemorate this momentous occasion in our monarch’s history, varying from the mint of the commemorative £5 coin to the tour itself. However, with sites like Buckingham Palace and Hyde Park, among countless others, how can the domestic gardener hope to project their support for the Jubilee without fading into obscurity? 

Well, you don’t read us for our car hire tips! No, instead you’ll find below a selection of annual bedding plants, which were chosen as much due to the timing of garden centre stocks as to that of the regal celebration itself. And as you might expect, the colours we’re focusing on are our national strip, the signal that has typified British pride and individuality since their inception in 1801 - I am of course referring to those of the Union Jack, whose colours you can now fly yourself, with the simple aid of a well-placed hanging basket.

Red

Pelargonium (Geranium) ‘Maverick Scarlet’

For the crimson tones in your union banner we first have the variety of Pelargonium known as ‘Maverick Scarlet’. It prefers loamy well drained soils and, though strictly an annual in this country, it can be brought inside to live in the winter months. Dead-head regularly to prolong flowering.

Salvia splendens ‘Blaze of Fire’

This is an arching, upright annual which will bear towers of deep scarlet, bell-shaped flowers, becoming wider, descending to an emerald green foliage. For best results, keep this cultivar in a well-drained position, afforded full sun, but some shelter from the elements.

Tropaeolum majus ‘Empress of India’

Nasturtium, as this plant is otherwise known, is an annual with a climbing or trailing habit and the only real condition of successful cultivation of the Empress is to ensure her good weather and a well-drained soil, although actually nasturtiums are pretty tolerant of most conditions and will easily self-seed for next year.

White

Impatiens ‘Carnival White’

Busy Lizzie, as it is otherwise known, will make an excellent punctuation to the riots of the colour sure to fill your jubilee bed. It prefers a shady position and will (as the name suggests) produce huge bursts of white blooms to brighten any dull corner.

Nemesia ‘White Lagoon’

This attractive annual has strong white flowers contrasting well with its dark green foliage. It will grow in sun or partial shade and needs no dead-heading.

Verbena ‘Aztec White’

This spreading/trailing annual bears clusters of pure white blooms throughout summer and late into autumn, it prefers a moist, chalky soil and plenty of sunlight – great for hanging baskets.

Blue

Anchusa capensis ‘Blue Angel’

This angel may not be immortal, but its small but vivid blue flowers will cover the bushy plant over a long season, provided it is sheltered and given a loose, well-drained soil structure.

Echium ‘Blue Bedder’

Echium is a very agreeable annual, which is happy to be planted in soils of poor fertility and, aside from the obvious beauty that its rich blue flowers will lend throughout the summer, it is also one of the great bee attractors.

Lobelia ‘Sapphire’

Lobelia is probably one of the most popular annuals both for hanging baskets and bedding and justifiably so, providing vivid colour all summer long.

Now obviously the formal ceremony for Her Majesty’s  60th is bearing down on us at a rate of knots, and as we can safely assume the last frosts have passed now for most of us, now is the optimal time to be planting your flag for the summer.

By Josh Ellison

Some jubilation is in order, for recent news has been dominated by stories of a general revival of Britain’s agricultural heritage. In the 1970’s,  EU regulations concerning the stringency of seed testing, and also the unprecedented rise in commercial and individual popularity of foreign produce, meant that many of our traditional varieties were no longer grown and indeed thousands became extinct. However, a recent relaxation in the rules, the devotion of a few to Britain’s ancient cultivars and, more so, a sudden surge of nostalgia for culturally specific species, has meant that many are seeing a welcome revival.

Two examples of this horticultural patriotism can be found in...

the Brighstone Bean

and the Martock Bean

 

both of which faced extinction less than half a century ago. However, thanks to the selflessness of one Rhoda Cutbush, species like the crimson-flowered broad bean were granted a second chance at survival. 

Other older vegetables making a comeback are... 

Tomato 'Black Russian'

Sweetcorn 'Ashworth'

Carrot 'Afghan Purple'

Many of the old varieties have a place in history too for the events they were named to commemorate – the ‘Trail of Tears Bean’ for example, was named by the Cherokee Indians, who took it with them when they were displaced by American settlers in 1838.

However, the credit for these cultivars’ revival does not go entirely to humans - open-pollination (the distribution of seed through natural means such as birds and insects) has been a major contributor to their increased propagation.

Referring to the renewed interest in these ‘heirloom’ varieties, Chris Smith, co-owner of Pennard Plants, had this to say

“It results from the fact that people want to grow a variety of flavours that are good for the garden…

…They’re remembering what their grandparents grew and they want to do the same.”

As Smith paraphrased, the majority of this assumed knowledge of heritage species stems from a time when residential agriculture was the status quo - even a civic duty, given the economic pressures of World War Two. Of course, the reality of this is that species originally intended for individual plots must now be adapted to meet their rising demand;

“Many varieties up until the 1920s, maybe later, were bred for gardeners rather than for growing twenty acres of it…

…We’re going back to a time when most people grew their own food and that’s when most of the varieties were developed.”

Following the end of the second world war, attentions shifted to mass agriculture for the sake of increased land efficiency, a necessary step considering the limited land mass of the British isles and, as such, farmers leant toward tried and true species that could depended upon to yield in large and consistent numbers. However, regular cross pollination of these varieties leads to the inevitable risk of failure, with the collective gene pool becoming so convoluted.

Toby Musgrave asserts the potential solution that could be found to this problem with the aid of our ‘heritage’ species.

“It is essential that we preserve the varieties and cultivars because we may well need them if one of these big commercial varieties fails…”

One gardener who aims to do just that, is Nicola Bradley, productive garden supervisor for the Lost Gardens of Heligan. Her expertise in heritage gardening is unsurpassed, as the major impetus of the project has been its restoration to the glory it enjoyed from the beginning of the Victorian era to the outbreak of The Great War. 

One of the Initiative’s favoured techniques is the use of fan training their fruit stocks, in a greenhouse for the more delicate species, but also outdoors with the cultivars durable enough to withstand the Cornish weather.

So, it is now incumbent upon us all to become familiar with the appropriate techniques and, if possible, raise and nurture some of these wonderful varieties in our own plots.

Finally, we have to award due credit to the plants themselves. The primary response when the public are pressed for the reasons behind devoting such effort to agriculture is often simply, ‘It tastes better’.

By Josh Ellison

For much of the last century century Hemp was vilified for its reputation synonymous with Cannabis, and, unfortunately, the fear campaign waged by western politics pigeon-holed a crop of high economic potential, as a dangerous and dissident drug. Aside from its superiority in the categories of durability, longevity and cost effectiveness, the hemp crop has one of the most varied lists of applications of any commercial crop. For example, hemp could be used as a component for rope, clothing fabrics and building, among other things. A recent study has even shown that the material can be used in vehicular construction!

However, a fairly new idea gaining prominence is Hemp’s ecological value, specifically concerning the species that rely on Hemp crops as a foundation for their habitat. A recent study conducted by the Game & Wildlife Conservation Trust (GWCT) has concluded that, aside from the crop’s economic potential, it also a highly valued part of Swallow and Whitethroat ecology. The study originated as a comparative project to test the environmental viability of Hemp against two other popular crops, specifically Oilseed Rape and Field Beans. 

It was established that while the birds use all three crops as a hunting ground during their respective nesting seasons, Hemp was unique in its popularity among Swallows as a final roosting ground in the late summer, before their annual southbound migration. 

On their research farm in Leicester, the GWCT recorded flocks, counting in the thousands, of the swallows whose then habitat was also in use up and down the country by the aforementioned Whitethroats, who are a common sight on British farms anyway.

Contrary to popular belief, the Hemp plant is also extremely adaptable to different climates and weather conditions. Partly due to its recreational popularity, its genus’ have been genetically engineered to create varieties suited to any environment. Fortunately this adaptability has made the plant extremely accepting of new environments, provided the right genus is selected. Unfortunately though this does mean that in great numbers it could pose an ecological threat to existing farmlands, similar to the ill-fated Cane Toad introduction in Australia, due to its vigorous growth cycle.

The leading researcher at GWCT, Dr. Chris Stoate, had this to say on the subject:

“We know that hemp has low requirement for inputs such as fertilisers and pesticides, but we needed to investigate whether there are any affects on wildlife of a crop that is relatively new to modern farming systems…

…insects, including those used as food by birds, were broadly similar in the three different crop types. Weed cover and weed species did not differ greatly between the crops…”

And so, while for now Hemp must still run a gauntlet of precautionary research, the day may not be far away when the agricultural, as well the ecological, community begins realising the true potential of this crop, be it as a biofuel or as nesting grounds for British wildlife and, with any luck, it will be able to shrug off the manacles of reputation and form part of the backbone of a sustainable future.

By Josh Ellison

As gardening is such a global pursuit, it is important that those of us who hold an interest in horticulture should be encouraged to pursue the purveyors of the craft’s excellence – and to the ends of the earth if possible!  With summer holidays approaching, we now have an opportunity to tailor any excursions we might be planning in order to realise this goal. So, we’ve compiled a list below, which in our opinion, best reflects the champions of green fingery around the world, based on the qualities of aesthetics, ambition, innovation and technique.

Although our list may be different from yours, and yours from aunty Jane’s, we’ve tried to include the widest possible range of disciplines and cultures that best reflect the multinational art form that is gardening.

So in no particular order…

1. Le Château de Versailles (France)

Topping more or less every list going and the last word in French formal gardening, which prizes order over natural formation, and pristine and exacting symmetry, is the prodigal designer Andre Le Notre’s masterpiece. Designed and constructed during the reign of King Louis XIV and unique for its use of foundations which litter the 800 acre site and whose original hydraulics are still in use today.

2. Katsura Imperial Palace (Japan)

It’s no secret that I’m a sucker for the Japanese garden style, but this bias by no means detracts from the majesty and grandeur that is the Katsura royal garden, designed over five hundred years ago by the then prince Toshhihito, with the aid of a tea master-come-horticulturalist. It is the most famous and thorough representation of the Japanese water garden and has been asserted as the most complete example of the country’s culture anywhere.

3. Villa Lante (Italy)

The Villa Lante is probably Italy’s foremost example of renaissance gardening. Construction began around 1566 under the direction of Jacopo Barozzi da Vignola and was later improved upon by Tommaso Ghinucci who oversaw the design of the gardens’ renowned fountains and water grottos. Another famous aspect of the garden is the progressively descending plateaus of water, serving as a fluid stairway, and it is for this reason that Ghinucci’s involvement was so paramount, as without his engineering expertise, the fluid perfection of the fountains could not be achieved.

4. Huntington Botanical Gardens (United States)

Henry Huntington procured the San Marino ranch at the turn of the century and successfully converted the land into a kind of a gallery of different garden designs, including a famous section devoted to lily ponds. It houses over 14,000 species of plants and its desert area is home to the largest collection of Aloe outside of its endemic Africa. Other themes covered in the garden are European formality and Japanese minimalism.

5. Stourhead (England)

Made famous by the 2005 adaptation of Pride and Prejudice, Stourhead really is a relic of English tradition. Originally established in the 18th century, it is also one of the largest sites on our list at over 1000 hectares. It houses its own village, Palladian Mansion and forest. The real beauty of this place stems from its inspiration - as the scenes there depict, its designer took much from the pastoral poetry and art that was popular at the time and tried to evoke those themes by erecting circular temples and naming features of the garden for characters from the Greek tradition.

Tune in next week for more inspirational gardens from around the world!

By Josh Ellison

Ferns are something of a British institution, being one of the most common members of most of our forest and woodland based eco systems. Ferns are also an extremely diverse family of plants, as they can be suited to a variety of different weather conditions and situations, and varieties can be found for virtually any garden. In this piece we’ll be discussing a small selection of varied ferns that can be raised in the domestic British garden and the conditions required to ensure they maintain good health.

Floral & Hardy’s Top Five Ferns:

Asplenium scolopendrium

More commonly referred to as ‘Hart’s Tongue Fern’, Asplenium scolopendrium is an evergreen fern which will form a dense bouquet of arching, leathery, deep green fronds with frilled edges. It propagates by way of the spores that develop on the underside of its leaves, identifiable by the stripes they form on the leaf’s surface. Grow in humus-rich, moist, but well-drained soil.  Due to their vulnerability to sunlight, it is imperative that they are grown in at least partial shade and they also prefer a neutral or alkaline ph. level.

Athyrium niponicum

This fern is a particularly beautiful as one can tell from its titular description, ‘Silver Falls’, the ‘Japanese Painted Fern’, as it is also known, has a beautiful silver tint to its leaves and fronds made particularly vibrant by sunlight, which makes it such a shame that it can only be successfully sustained in full shade! It is also deciduous, although it will maintain this colour throughout all seasons on finely divided, lance-shaped leaves. For best results these should be planted in shade, in moist, fertile soil with an acidic ph. level.

Dicksonia antarctica

The first tree to make it onto our list, with the potential to reach about six metres tall, Dicksonia antarctica has a brown, fibrous trunk and broad, arching deep-green fronds. It should be planted in a shady position, preferably under other deciduous trees. Ensure the stem remains well watered in the summer season but avoid watering the crown in winter as this will increase the likelihood of frost damage. Plant in an acidic, loamy soil, ensure that it is not too exposed, particularly in colder areas and stuff the crown with straw in winter to protect it from frost.

Matteuccia struthiopteris

The ‘Ostrich Fern’, or as it is sometimes more descriptively known ‘Shuttlecock Fern’, is a deciduous one, having huge erect rosettes with an outer layer of bright green fronds enclosing smaller brown fronds, it will also bear non-edible cream coloured fruit in the summer and has a clump-forming, spreading habit. It is excellently suited for water or pond based gardens. Like the Dicksonia they are suited to an acid based soil content, but prefer extremely wet conditions in partial shade.

Polystichum setiferum

Also known as the ‘Soft Shield Fern’, these evergreens should be treated with extreme care due to the feathery nature of their leaves and thus respective weakness against the elements; they should be planted in a cool, moist and shady area. However the one advantage of these ferns is that they are fairly indiscriminate to whichever soil they are planted in, not minding acid or alkaline ph. levels.

And there we have it, a variety of ferns for a variety of locations and although they share the common characteristic of vulnerability to the elements, remember that they also share another which is key to your reason to plant  them -  beauty.

By Josh Ellison

Being the month of May, we each of us have an opportunity to begin sowing new crops in time for a summer harvest, more specifically salad and vegetable crops that, weather allowing, we’ll be able to enjoy with a barbeque come July. Aside from the satisfaction of raising your own dinner, home growing holds the added of appeal of financial gain - though sometimes less reliable, growing it yourself will always be cheaper, not to mention far more sustainable, when compared to retail shopping.

As such, we’ve highlighted the growing conditions and the best techniques for cultivating ten of these food stuffs, all of which can be sown outside once all risk of frost has passed. However, if you want to start earlier next year, softer rooted seeds can be sown indoors in order to protect them from winter weather conditions and the result of this is that the seedling is already germinated, with a preliminary root base, before its inevitable transfer to the outer garden. Species which are suited to this treatment include broccoli, Brussel sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, celery, aubergine, leeks, onions, parsley, peppers and tomatoes.

There are certain vegetables, however, whose hardiness level makes them better suited to outdoor planting as it will save the task of upheaving them once established, for example, carrots, beetroot, turnips, and parsnips.

Floral & Hardy’s Top Ten Easy to Grow Veg

Beetroots (Outdoor)

Beetroot is an excellent starter crop for two reasons; first of all it has a quick turnaround time of about two and a half months and it is also one of the most eclectic among produce for its preparation. It prefers alkaline based, sandy soil in full sunlight.

Purple Sprouting Broccoli (Indoor)

The purple broccoli is of a lower hardiness level than the beet and as such is better established indoors. It prefers well drained, moisture-retentive soil with strong sunlight and an alkaline soil content.

Carrots (Outdoor/Indoor)

The carrot is a particularly durable vegetable, however, it should not be planted in soil that has been fertilised in the last year, instead use manure in your preparation of the bed 1-2 weeks before sowing. For this purpose you may wish to raise this vegetable indoors although it will perform just as well outside. This is due to its relative resistance to mild frost and also its indiscrimination when it comes to soil content; not minding loam or sand, acid or alkaline.

Mange-tout peas (Indoor)

Mange-tout is a decidedly indoor species for several reasons, first of which is the damage that surface frost poses against the stems. It is also a highly valued target of some species of bird and insects. They prefer moderately-rich soil in a sunny, open position and once the seed has broken the surface you should provide stakes to support growth.

Rocket (Inside)

Rocket is one of the simplest salad crops to grow and will add a wonderful peppery flavour to any leaf bowl. They should be sown every 2-3 weeks in fertile soil to ensure a constant supply throughout summer. They prefer rich soil and full sunlight and should be either moved to cool greenhouse or covered with fleece throughout the winter months.

Runner beans (Inside)

Similar to the requirements of Mange-tout, runner beans will require cane support once their stems have reached above the surface of the soil and they should be planted in moderately-fertile soil with a neutral ph. level.

Spinach (Inside)

Due to its relation to the rocket leaf, spinach should be treated with similar growing conditions, but it would be best to intersperse them with other vegetables, as summer spinach prefers partial shade.

Spring Onions (Outside)

Spring Onions can be sown straight into the ground as long you ensure you’ve weeded the site thoroughly, but make sure the soil is well drained and frequented by strong sunlight.

Squash (Outside/Inside)

For best results with squash you should plant small clusters of two or three in deep soil around the end of May. Cover the sites with plastic or a glass jar and leave for as long as possible after germination, this will ensure a healthy and consistent supply of moisture to the seedling. They also prefer full sunlight and a fairly sheltered position.

Sweetcorn (Outside)

When growing Sweetcorn I would recommend one of the ‘supersweet’ varieties as they tend to retain moisture better than their traditional counterparts. They perform best during lengthy heat spells and should be planted in a fertile, sheltered position.

Whether outside or inside, the better method is to sow the seeds in rows either horizontally or vertically, so you can tell crops from weeds, and depending on the space you’ve allocated, group plants according to soil condition and the synchronicity of their germination.

By Josh Ellison

A short time ago, in our review about the RHS London flower show, we talked about the value of natural screening in the garden and this week we wanted to devote some more time to the subject, and specifically the benefits of growing Bamboo. It’s a rare and wonderful plant that can engage you on multiple sensory planes, but Bamboo is one, as, aside from its obvious value for scale (due to a growth rate paralleled, in some cases, only by Knotweed!) and thus its ability to manipulate the allocation of light and shade in your garden, it is also wonderful for sound and movement.

Let us first address its most obvious use - that of border reinforcement or simple decoration. Due to the excessive heights some can reach, Bamboo can be a dramatic addition to any garden, provided it is well cared for and has the space to grow to its potential. Common varieties such as Sasa veitchii have especially broad and virulent foliage and as such provide excellent privacy, as well an ecological base for insects and small mammals, but be careful - they can soon outgrow their allotted space. Taller, but less invasive species, such as Phyllostachys can also provide excellent screens.

Secondly we have the sound aspect of Bamboo - due to the species’ slender stems it is susceptible to wind movement and, because these stems are formed of rather dry, brittle material, they tend to hiss when the wind rubs them together making Bamboo a gentle, natural wind chime.

So, below you’ll find a variety of different Bamboo species that can be cultivated in the British garden, complete with their optimum growing conditions. Take note of their ultimate size however, and choose accordingly!

Fargesia nitida ‘Red Panda’

Also going by the handle of ‘Chinese Fountain Bamboo’, ‘Red Panda’ is an upright evergreen with a clump forming habit whose informal moniker stems from the crimson tint that its stems take. It maintains this same colour through all seasons, hence the perpetuity that such water imagery lends. Chinese Fountain prefers a heavy soil base i.e. clay or loam, however, it is not choosy when it comes to positioning, ph. levels or exposure. Eventual height is 3.5ms, and spread 2.5ms.

Phyllostachys nigra

Commonly known as ‘Black Bamboo’, this species is also an evergreen with bright yellowy-green foliage which gives it a marvellous contrast to the dark colour of its stems. Its habit too is the same as the Red Panda – upright -, however it has a more independent arching shape to its limbs. However, due to this singular growing shape, they are susceptible to wind and frost damage and as such you might want to consider growing them against a wall where they will have greater support from the elements. Eventual height is 2.5 - 4ms, and spread 1.5 - 2.5ms.