Etymology, or the origin of words, is a fascinating subject, particularly where plants are concerned. Oft named after the discoverer’s love interest, or for the characters of fables and fairy tales. Or perhaps their origins are just anonymous and lost among the many languages that have tried to classify them. The quintessential English flower, the Rose, for example, made famous by Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet for the irrelevance of its etymology - perhaps it was the famous play that so discouraged any real research into the titular blooms origins for so long. It is widely believed to be endemic to the time of the Greek empire, supposedly most prevalent in areas such as Thrace and Macedon, in modern Bulgaria and Romania, although reports also claim it had a footing in the Persian Empire, but the origins of the actual name are lost in time.

However, the history of the names of many plants can be traced back and it was commonplace to name a cultivar based on the myths and pantheon of older civilizations, and the Greeks, who are famous for their tales of adventure and divinity, would often name flowers for the characteristics they shared with the heroes of their stories. For example, the name Narcissus, a downturned flower often occurring in numbers near bodies of water, comes from the legend of the titular Greek hunter and describes a man so beautiful that Nemesis, the embodiment of retribution against the vain, tricked him with his own reflection in a pool, causing him to bend over the water and become ensnared by his own good looks, eventually causing his death.

Aconitum, or ‘Monkshood’s’, origins spring from both the hooded shape of its flowers, but also the exploits of two of the ancient world’s greatest heroes, Herakles and Theseus. It is said that Herakles was sent forth to the underworld to claim one of Hades’ beasts as a labourer, but that once they set foot again upon the earth, the beast bled into the ground and from that sprung the first Monkshood shoot.

The Hyacinth, whose name was established in the late 16th century, is said to originate from the Greek ‘jacinth’ which referenced a precious blue stone, probably sapphire, and also a fable of the sun god Apollo. Supposedly Apollo struck up an affair with a younger man and quite by accident slew him and now, as a result, each of these flowers has its petals stained by Apollo’s tears with a commemorative ‘ai, ai’ as a mark of his grief.

The common Nasturtium derives its name from the Latin phraseology 'nasitortium' which literally translates to 'nose-twist', no doubt due to its spicily fragrant blooms and leaves, while Perlagoniums get their name from the Latin ‘pelargos’ meaning stork, for the beak-like shape of the seed head. ‘Impatiens’ is simply Latin for impatient, referring to the violent discharge of its seeds.

However, it is not only the translation from their Latin or Greek equivalents that make plant names so crucial to understanding their history, the syntax of the words themselves also defines them. For example, if a plant is applied a masculine in the native language by which it was originally classified then this carries over into the King's English. Generally plants with titles ending 'us' can be safely considered a masculine species whereas, similar to the Spanish and Italian branches of Latin, a name ending in 'a' would indicate a feminine species. An example would be 'Belladonna', and, although the current and archaic translation of this differ slightly as, while we know the genus commonly as ‘deadly nightshade’, its original form was 'lady of war', thus raising not too dissimilar connotations.

Over the course of the 18th century, one Carl Linnaeus of Sweden developed a reputation as the father of modern taxonomy by establishing the now ruling conventions of plant naming. By Linnaeun standards a plant would be named first for its genus and secondly by species. However, as common sense dictated these names were usually relative to a) The discoverer of the species or b) A physical description of the specimen, it is rumoured the Linnaeus himself named the ugly little weed, Siegesbeckia, after the surname of one of his fiercest critics!

So as you can see, it’s all in the name!

By Josh Ellison

Champion Trees - we have your winners…

There is a national tree register, whose patron is the Prince of Wales, which contains a compilation and maintained a list around 4,000 of the most superlative trees in the British Isles. The trees are judged based on a variety of different attributes, such as height and age.

The subject recently became prominent due to the outcry against the felling of one of Britain’s most elderly Caucasian Wing Nuts due to a bad case of trunk rot that could endanger future spectators with the possibility of collapse.  The 38.2 m tree, planted in 1845 in Weymouth’s Abbotsbury Subtropical Gardens, is a sad loss and we’d like to raise awareness about the more prominent members of the list of what are aptly named the ‘Champion trees’.

So let us begin with those champions of the tallest stature.

Our gold medallist is a Common Lime tree situated at the Edenhall Estate in Cumbria, standing at over 45 metres tall with an average trunk girth of 408 cm. 

Our second place in the height category belongs to a European Beech in Gloucestershire measuring at 43 metres. However, on the world scale, the tallest in Britain are dwarfed thrice over by a Redwood on the Pacific coast. 

The giant Redwood in California’s national park was aptly named ‘Hyperion’ by its discoverers in 2006 and stands at over 110 metres tall! Some Redwoods are so large that roads have been built through their living trunks!

Next we have the category of girth, or trunk thickness and this was a closer contest with our winner only doing so by a margin of a few centimetres - a Sessile Oak in Cheshire with an average trunk thickness of 1401 cm. The silver medal goes to a French Oak whose home is in the Great Witley Estate in Worcestershire.

While not tourist attractions directly, these champions of their kin would make for an excellent pit stop were you to find yourself in their proximity - probably best to see them now before they face the same fate as Dorset’s ancient Wingnut!

Or, if you have a particularly large or ancient tree, you can use the Tree Register’s online measuring form to find out if it should take its place among the champions!

By Josh Ellison

Continuing our weekly segment on different plant based colour schemes, we now address red and blues first child – purple. As usual our list includes cultivation dos and don’ts, where best to place these examples to appreciate their colour and, of course, a brief description of what you can expect from each of them.

1. Buddleja ‘Black Knight’

(So often misspelt as “Buddleia” that even the red brow of my spellcheck is furrowed!), is a large arching shrub with lance shaped blossoms that alternate either side of its stem. The bark of the plant is a pale brown and the ‘Black Knight’ variety of this cultivar bears long, deep purple inflorescences at the top of its tall branches.  I would suggest raising this plant with wall support or near a pergola that it might overhang your pathways and borders. If you want to keep the height in check you can cut them back hard in November or March. Buddlejas do not do well in extreme winters and will perish at temperatures below -15°C, but are generally quite hardy enough for British gardens, just plant in well-drained soil in a sunny spot for best flowering. Its nectar makes it particularly attractive to butterflies, hence its common name of ‘Butterfly Bush’.

2. Clematis ‘Etoile Voilette’

Clematis come in deciduous or evergreen varieties and, as for its flowers, they can cover the entire plant. With this variety you can expect masses of deep-purple blooms from mid-summer to mid-autumn. Due to its hardiness, it matters very little how exposed the plant is and thus it makes for an excellent wall or pergola decoration with an approximate height and spread of 4 by 1 metres. But, for best results, aim for a sunny planting site with well-drained, alkaline soil, shelter the roots with other planting or pebbles and prune every year in early spring by cutting stems back to pairs of plump buds about 30cms from the ground.

3. Nepeta mussinii ‘Six Hills Giant’

This is a resilient perennial with violet flowers that show in the summer months and, due to its density and aroma, it is well suited as a front-of-the-border, edging plant. Nepeta’s durability means that your choice of locale needn’t be painstaking - it can withstand both sides of neutral on the ph. scale and most types of well-drained soil, including chalk, although it will not flourish in soils that remain sodden in winter. It is highly drought resistant and will perform equally in either full sun or partial shade. Its foliage falls between green and silver from spring to autumn and its flowers will form in pairs astride its lanceolate stems, often with a terminal two-lipped flower at the tip. Dead-heading will prolong the flowering season. If you have cats, they’ll love its aroma – hence its common name of ‘Catmint’ - but bees love it too!

4. Syringa vulgaris‘Charles Joly’

The common Lilac is an obvious addition to this list and we could find no variety more appropriate than this, providing dense clusters of very fragrant, rich purple flowers from late-May to mid-June. You can also expect a lush green foliage of heart shaped leaves and this combination of colour makes for an excellent backdrop, especially when exposed to full sun. This cultivar is fully hardy, but prefers a humus-rich and well-drained soil. Be sure to avoid acidic soils and, if you really want the full potential from this plant, then you should mulch the base with manure or compost in early spring.

5. Tradescantia virginiana ‘Concord grape’

The Tradescantia, or ‘Spiderwort’ as it is commonly known, is in fact endemic to our shores and, as such, it is well adapted to the British climate, often used in gardens in close proximity to the sea, due to its extreme drought resistance. Expect flowering throughout the summer months, with three-petalled, violet flowers with purple stamens tipped with yellow pollen, and long, sword-shaped grey-green leaves. For best effect, plant them in sun or partial shade, space them approximately 12 inches apart and cut back to ground level in autumn. They’ll get to about 30cms tall, so are ideal at the front of the border.

By Josh Ellison

Last week we gave you information on proper pruning techniques and its many benefits, however even the most dedicated maintenance cannot make a large tree suitable for a small garden. This week we address this with a list of smaller trees that are ideally suited to such a calling. All of them are rated by the RHS as H4, or ‘hardy’ so will be suitable for most gardens, and all are quite easy to grow.

Floral and Hardy’s Top Five Small Trees:

1. Prunus ‘Amanogawa’

This is a particularly good variety of Cherry to grow if you have a small space to fill and don’t want too wide a canopy of branches, as it is columnar in habit, hence its common name of ‘Pencil Cherry’.  It has wonderful, semi-double, pale pink blossom in May and fantastic autumn foliage colours. It will grow to between 4 and 8 metres tall and is extremely durable. Preferring a well-drained soil, this cultivar is indifferent to its placement in the garden, doing well in shade or sun, regardless of exposure.

2. Cercis ‘Forest Pansy’

Cercis, native of Mediterranean areas and has the nick-name ‘Judas Tree’, as legend has it that it was the tree on which Judas hanged himself, but don’t let that put you off! This variety is grown as much for its stunning foliage as the flowers, as it is possessed of large, heart-shaped, deep purple  leaves with only small pinkish flowers on the bare branches before the leaves appear. It needs a position in full sun, dislikes cold or clay gardens and will grow to about 5-6ms tall.

3. Malus ‘Evereste’

This ‘Crab Apple’ is another hardy addition to our list that will produce fragrant, shallow cupped flowers, red in bud opening to white, in the spring time, followed by orange-red edible fruits. These would require cooking to be edible, but generally it’s best to leave them on the tree so they can form nature’s own baubles in the winter time. Overall it will assume a conical shape about 7ms tall and from spring to autumn it will provide a changing spectacle of colour.

4. Acer palmatum ‘Atropurpureum’

The ecology of the ‘Japanese Maple is referred to as an understory plant, in that in its woodland habitat it will reach heights expected of a mid-level shrub. In the average garden though, these limitations may be surpassed due to the extra sunlight, compared with its endemic conditions. This variety has purple, deeply lobed leaves, turning bright red in autumn and will reach a height of around 6-8ms. It prefers an acid, moist, but well drained soil, clay or sand based and should be placed in full or partial shade. Water in the summer, if necessary.

5. Arbutus unedo

The ‘Strawberry Tree’ is a good choice if you want a small evergreen tree, (although it is technically a shrub). The tree is slow-growing, but has year-round interest with its glossy, dark green foliage, white, pendant flowers and edible, but flavourless orange-red, strawberry-like fruits in autumn. It also has a long life span of 20-50 years with an ultimate height of 4-8 metres. It prefers well-drained but moist soil, preferably acidic though neutral will do, and clay/sand based is best.

By Josh Ellison

There are fewer habits a gardener can develop that are of greater benefit than composting. Dedication and persistence are rewarded with a cost effective means to fertilise your garden, not to mention a practical use for your garden and household green waste. So, this week’s editorial will focus on how to begin your own compost areas and what (and what not!) to include in the base ingredients.

There are a number of ready-made options for bins available on the market, but, if you go the homemade route, then there’s the question of how to store your compost so that it doesn’t end up an unsightly pile on the lawn. The simplest type of bin you can make yourself is an enclosed cylinder or cube of chicken wire supported by cane or posts, however, this will not be as effective as boxed in compost as it will not contain the heat required to encourage bacterial decomposition. Aside from this, once the material rots down and becomes finer, it will begin to leak through the holes in the wire.

To remedy this you may wish to take another DIY route and construct your own rustic bin from (preferably) reclaimed timber, or even old wooden pallets. Ideally you would have two, or even three, such bins, so that one can ‘cook’ while the other is still being added to. A piece of old carpet on the top will keep the heat in, whilst loose boards slotted into the front of the bin will allow for easy turning of the heap to encourage even composting.

Or, if you’re feeling particularly ingenious, you might devise a self-turning composter from a pair of old rubbish bins. Placing the smaller of your two cans inside the large, begin your compost pile with a few inches of brown matter (shredded newspaper and cardboard are excellent for this) followed by a fistful of soil and a few inches more of green matter (fruit and vegetable waste or direct plant matter). Give the whole pile a few seconds under the hose and be sure to drill holes in the base of both bins so the compost does become asphyxiated and anaerobic. The inner barrel should be then well shaken twice a month and this will save you the labour of a pitchfork, whilst turning your compost effectively.

You can compost most of your green garden waste, though not pernicious weeds, nor any diseased material, (which is best burned), and all your kitchen green waste. Generally speaking most conventional composting methods cannot cope with meat or fish as they cannot rot them down efficiently and they may also attract vermin.  It is also quite important to add a mix of materials. A compost bin containing just grass cuttings, for example, would soon become a slimy mess! Interlacing the layers with shredded newspaper is a good way of keeping the compost sweet. If you have access to horse manure, this will also make a valuable contribution to your heap (but never use it fresh on your garden as it will be too acidic).

Other composting containers include the microbe composter, a small indoor waste bin that you lace with a dose of Bokashi microbes, making it a cheaper means of breaking down your compost, not relying on the use of electronic heat. 

The wormery, another naturally based method, utilises earthworms to reprocess the apple cores of yesterday to benefit the orchards of tomorrow.

There are of course more efficient and time saving composters, however the price tag is relative to the convenience they provide. There are the top of the line robotic composters, for example, that regulate both the heat and mixing of your waste automatically. The combined effect of extra heating and aeration means these suckers can churn through five pounds of matter a day on average, be it the fish, dairy or meat - materials many conventional composters struggle to break down. However aside from the initial expenditure remember you’ll also have to deal with the extra energy cost per month.

So there it is – the choice is yours. But whichever method you choose, when you spread that beautiful sweet, dark compost, rest assured your garden will thank you for it, with much improved flowering and produce yields, so it will be worth it!

By Josh Ellison

The Royal Horticultural Society have recently published a public interest story concerning the rising prices and popularity of allotment gardening and you may be shocked to find out how plot space translates into wallet space.

The earliest renderings of officiated allotments in the UK can be traced to Birmingham of the 18th Century - some of the plots featured in an engraving made in 1732 still survive today. However, due to a lack of royal endorsement, some believe the oldest allotments to be those of St. Anne in Nottingham, an accolade later award to the Wiltshire free gardens located in greater Somerford which was relinquished by the king, on the behest of the local parish, from the Enclosure Acts of that century. However, the rest of the country was not so favourably treated and as such the number of allotments available to the peasantry was greatly reduced. This called for the introduction of allotment legislation in order to cope with the high demand for domestic vegetables.

With the new legislation, the popularity of allotments grew steadily with several hundred thousand established by the turn of the 20th century, spiking at the outbreak of World War One at 1.5M and after tailing off slightly in the subsequent peace time, again reaching 1.4M in 1941. Remaining at over a million until the end of the decade the number of plots began a steady decline, to 600,000 in the late sixties and falling below half a million by 1977, while paradoxically demand for them only grew. By 1997 the numbers had fallen to just over a quarter of a million plots with an estimated 44,000 not in use and 13,000 plotters on waiting lists. Taking their cue from the ecological awakening of the late nineties the number of allocated allotments began to rise and by 2008 had reach over 330,000. However, while the number of plot failed to even double, the number of those waiting had more than quadrupled to 100,000.

If I had had £22 to spend back in 97’, rather than a pocket full of lego men, I could have afforded an average plot, perhaps not within biking distance or on one train, but somewhere there would have been a waiting list I could get on. The basic contractual agreement of a plot, is a yearly fixed rate per rod ( a rod is equivalent  to thirty square yards) and most will stipulate a minimum number of rods per plot. However, the Lego King would’ve found his treasury wanting were he to rent in certain boroughs and counties of today - Staffordshire’s Cannock Chase for example, more than doubled their prices in the last year to over £100 per full plot. Worse still you have Berkshire’s own Runnymede demanding 55p a square metre which, when you consider the minimum parcel is approx. 125 sqm, certainly adds up.

If that hasn’t managed to put you off though, then you should apply for a plot through your local council who can be contacted through the appropriate governmental portal.

And I don’t use ‘should’ lightly - with the continued urbanisation that has run rampant since trains first went ‘choo’, the availability of green spaces will only dwindle. For those of us who suffer most from this blight, allotments are fast becoming the only hope of environmental relief to our concrete jungles, not to mention  a valuable source of nutritious and flavoursome organic fruit and vegetables, a place to meet people and socialise, and, if nothing else, an antidote to a growing distrust in our corporate trough fillers!

By Josh Ellison

This week we are continuing our colour coding of the garden, so if yellow is your thing, we bring you a host of butter-toned cultivars. Yellow is considered, in psychological circles, to affects one’s self esteem, specifically to trigger confidence or anxiety depending on the way in which it’s presented. I think most people would probably say though that yellow is a cheerful colour that lifts the spirits on a dull day in the garden. It’s not called ‘mellow yellow’ for nothing!

1. Daffodil

Probably the most famous (as its yellow trumpets certainly epitomise spring for many people) not to mention widespread flower of this colour, Narcissus is a hardy perennial endemic to Asia, North Africa and Europe. It is also one of the most varied species in that, while the numbers of its wild and natural cultivars are slowly becoming more refined, its popularity leads specialists to cultivate and breed new varieties nearly every year. Suffice to say, you’ll be hard pressed to find a more accommodating bloom due to the constant tweaking that has prepared this plant for the many environments it must inhabit.

2. Forsythia

Named for their discoverer William Forsyth (not to be confused with the writer Forsythe!) this deciduous shrub will regularly grow to heights of three metres and has ovate, green foliage, complemented by the iron grey bark that coats the limbs and branches. In early spring, they produce masses of small flowering blooms similar in shape to the trumpet lily, succeeded by dry, wing shaped seed pods that have been claimed to contain lactose, but this is yet to be confirmed. Due to its height, best effect is generally achieved by wall planting, thus providing its upright habit with the support needed to show off the stunning flower display.

3. Fremontedendron

Otherwise known as the ‘Flannel Bush’ and so named for the densely arranged stellate hairs that adorn its leathery leaves, Fremontedendron  is endemic to North America and New Mexico and, as such, favours warmth and plenty of sun. It is a short-lived species and so may not reach its potential height of 5-7ms, however, the upshot of this is that it flowers very young, grows prevalently and can be trained against a wall to take advantage of these facts. In poor soil and full sun they will show vibrant blossoms eight centimetres across and attractive green foliage moving into brown with age. Just be careful when you’re working near it though, as the tiny hairs on the leaves are easily brushed off and can be very irritating to the skin and eyes!

4. Rudbeckia

This easy-to-grow herbaceous perennial has much in common with the garden daisy, particularly in the shape of its inflorescence with prominent yellow florets arranged in a cone shaped fashion, as the petals tend to face downward once the flower head blooms. These are a native species of North America and are favoured for their bright flowers late in the season.  There are varieties to grow at the front of the border right through to the back, ranging from heights of 60cms to 2ms tall. They will grow in most soils and are also good for cutting to take indoors, the blooms lasting well in water.

5. Hypericum

‘St. John’s Wort’, as it is otherwise known, depending where you are in the world, can vary between the habits of a creeping groundcover plant to a sizeable shrub. Hypericum is a ‘grow-anywhere’ type of plant and one of the most widely distributed cultivars on earth. As such, is particularly easy to cultivate, as the variation in conditions it will tolerate is vast. In fact the only common denominators between the whole species is the willingness to flower, and the colour of those flowers, producing bowls of bright golden petals over a long flowering season.

By Josh Ellison

Everybody loves fruit - it’s nature’s ice cream with more than forty flavours, it’s the back bone of our vitamin intake, not to mention a damn good looking addition to the garden.

Those of us who grow fruit trees, or will in the future, will inevitably have to learn the art of proper pruning. While this process is not essential to the plant's survival, it is a necessary step to healthy growth and, most importantly, fruit production. Aside from the plant's health, pruning also allows you to customise the shape of the tree and thus better equip you for its placement in the garden.

There are three key factors to observe when selecting which branches get the chop. First of all the deformation of the branches i.e. misshapenness or weak points in the limb and also whether one growth crosses detrimentally into the path of another. The second factor is often a product of the third and that is dead branches - these serve no purpose as they will bear neither future fruit nor leaves, thus they are merely a sunblock that is hurting the rest of the tree’s photosynthesis.  The final factor is disease, like gangrene it is better to lose a single a limb than risk the entire body becoming infected and you must exercise this approach with extreme prejudice.

It will become evident that, for different sizes and types of limb, you’ll require the appropriate tools - the three staple instruments being a sharp set of hand shears or secateurs, their larger brother the lopping shear...

...and also a good pruning saw. It is essential that you maintain both their blades and handles as this will determine the eventual health of your trees. Cuts that have been forced due to poor handling or bluntness will take much longer to heal than those made cleanly. Never strain the shears against the branch, if it will not bore through the first time it is better to repeat the proper technique slowly than twist the branch off quickly. Wipe your tools down with an oily cloth and regularly run oil into the handles if they are wooden, keep them stored in a dry place to avoid rusting and use them only on wood, never on twine or wiring. 

The branch or limb should be taken as deeply into the jaws as possible so that the fulcrum can exert the maximum pressure possible and make a clean sloping cut.

Five Easy Fruits:

1. Apple ‘Bramley’

Perfect for gran’s fruit pies, this cooking apple will yield large, bright green fruits, however, I wouldn’t recommend eating them raw as they can be very tart and give you a bit of a belly-ache!  You’ll be able to recognise their ripeness by the trademark stout appearance they bear and also sometimes the one red cheek that occurs on the side that has been exposed to direct sunlight.

2. Apple ‘Discovery’

Expect this cultivar to fruit shortly after flowering mid-season - by mid-august you’ll find these crimson and yellow orbs ready to be plucked. Considered a dessert apple they have a sweet succulent flavour and an appearance more akin to that of their better known eating counterparts than the Bramley. It is among the most popular growing apples in the British Isles and it’s no secret as to why, with its superior shelf life over many other varieties.

3. Pear ‘Conference’

This self-fertile pear is possessed of an elongated shape and sweet, juicy flesh. Introduced in 1885 by Thomas Rivers, this home grown variant exhibited greater taste, texture and keeping ability than the competition and as such Rivers named it after its introduction at the Pear Conference of that year. As a side note, the Conference has also shown greater resistance to cool and wet weather when compared to its contemporaries and, as a consequence, now accounts for 90% of commercial pear production in this country.

4. Plum ‘Victoria’

You’ll find this fruit at its best in mid-late September when it will develop a rich burgundy skin surrounding bright yellow flesh. Probably the most needy in terms of pruning as the fruit is unlikely to thrive without it due to its heavy foliage. It is quite tolerant of disease, however, the fruit is prone to mould and thus it is imperative that it is picked quickly upon reaching maturity.

5. Cherry ‘Stella’

This gorgeous self-fertile tree will provide a heavy crop of sweet, juicy, dark red fruits during the mid-summer months, however vigilance is key to a successful harvest as the cherry is possessed of a very brief fruiting period and you’ll find stiff competition from the birds!

By Josh Ellison

Continuing on from our previous piece concerning the introduction of selected colour schemes within the garden, we now bring you a variety of cool, blue cultivars to complement the fiery red shades we talked about last week.

Floral and Hardy’s Top Five Blue Blooms:

1. Aconitum

Aconitum, aka ‘Monkshood’, previously appeared in our poisonous plants section and this is important to note if your blue garden will someday entertain animals or small children, as it can prove a fatal addition in the wrong hands. Fortunately, the Monkshood’s preferred growing site is somewhere in partial shade, so you may be able to conceal the plant sufficiently to neutralise this threat! For best effect, plant towards the back of your borders, behind shorter blooms, this way you’ll take advantage of the long stems and vibrant violet blooms. Aconitum is possessed of fairly durable stems so provided the plant isn’t completely exposed it shouldn’t require staking or extra support, but make sure the soil is water retentive and rich, or risk significant damage to your chances of it flowering.

2. Agapanthus

As a native of South Africa it is important you tailor to Agapanthus’ need for fertile soil and sunlight and plant in a sunny, exposed position and, depending on your soil type, you may wish to balance it with the addition of sand or humus to ensure this plant has the drainage it needs. It is recommended that you cultivate the soil in this manner up to 12” deep to ensure a strong root foundation. Similar in shape, if not in colour, to a giant snowflake, their vulnerability to wind is a product of their height and the weight of the flowers. They have an average growing range of over a metre, so it may be necessary to stake all around to ensure good health and flowering.

3. Delphinium

These slender beauties take the form of a vibrant feather duster and produce narrow towers of flowers on a thick, hardy stem, providing your borders with lovely vertical punctuation. However, they are not the easiest customers to please. They prefer full sun but suffer in wind, therefore I would suggest generous implementation of stakes, and make sure you’re happy when you do finally hole them, as they are not easily repositioned. One way to guarantee them a strong start is to line the hole, which should be twice the pots size, with bone meal and, beyond, just make sure you water them regularly. Watch out for slugs and snails in the spring too, as they love their juicy, young growth.

4. Iris

The Iris is one of the most versatile cultivars in the world, able to grow in conditions ranging from an arid, dry desert to full water submersion. Fortunately for you, this translates to a very simple customer in terms of positioning and soil quality as you can always choose one to suit your conditions. There is one constant, however, and that is  they all require full sun, the bearded varieties in particular. Depending on the overall quality of your soil ,we have three types to recommend. For the less fertile garden you might consider the Siberian Iris, far and away the hardiest cultivar suitable for British weather.  The German bearded specimen will accept most soils of average fertility and moisture, and the Japanese cultivar thrives in very damp and rich soils and as such may be considered for the bordering of a pond. They are all long stemmed flowers whose foliage depends on whether they are rhizomatous or bulbous, the former will produce symmetrical sword shaped leaves while the latter will have cylindrical leaves.

5. Meconopsis

Also answering to ‘Himalayan Blue Poppy’, this stunning cultivar never fails to enchant, with its beautiful papery, sky-blue petals and pale yellow centre, unfortunately it often fails to establish itself in gardens so far from its native climate. Do not even attempt to grow this plant unless you have well-drained, acid soil and a shady spot to grow them in. For guaranteed results, it is necessary to tailor the plant’s surroundings and allow it to acclimatise slowly. Plants are also short-lived and will need to be regularly replaced and you can do this from seed. First sow the seeds onto a damp paper towel, roll the towel into a log and place it in one of the salad drawers of your fridge in a sealed plastic bag for a month. The reason for this is to introduce the dormant seeds to their endemic environment and effectively wake them up.  Next you need to create a compost of grit, seed and ericaceous compost, water the tray well and leave to drain, then place your seeds on the surface of the mix but don’t cover them with a second layer. To get them to germinate, the most important thing to remember is water, at no point should the mix tray dry out Store said tray in a cool place preferably with a plastic lid to retain moisture. However, you must take care to remove the lid as soon as germination begins to prevent fungal rot. After a fortnight they should be ready for transplanting and we recommend the same mix that was used for germination combined with plenty of tenderness and loving care. 

By Josh Ellison

(If not necessarily sensible!)

To many, a garden is just a glorified bouquet, somewhere to apply an artistic touch and allownature to do the leg work and, while the aesthetic appeal of this idea is undeniable, to trulyappreciate all that a garden has to offer to the senses, we cannot be resigned to be mere voyeurs.A garden can be so much more, and here is a guide to creating spaces that encompass and cater   to all of our senses.

Sight

Nothing lifts the spirits like a well-planted garden and starting with the most obvious stimuli a garden can offer, it is important to note the psychological effect of particular hues. As we know, artistic flare alone does not make a great gardener, it also helps to have a basic interest in the natural sciences and, in this case, physics. 

Red, for example, has longest wave length in the light/colour spectrum and as such appears closer than it really is, hence the reputation it has acquired as a bold and attention grabbing colour. Yellow and oranges can be cheerful colours too that are just as stimulating and exciting.  Green, by contrast, could perhaps provide quite a bland palette in a garden, despite the fact that at an instinctive level it is also the most comforting as it holds connotations of water.

Along with blues, whites and mauves, it can also have the effect of receding in the garden and making borders feel further away than they actually are. These soft colours can also be more effective in shady conditions or in the evening, standing out in the dim light more effectively than their deeper coloured relatives.

Sound

The most common sounds of a garden are the simplest - particularly that of the wind through the trees and nearby animals and birds, but it is possible to enhance these sounds with diligence paid to your planting. You could, for example, plant stands of bamboo and wait for the breeze to rustle through them, and you can fill the garden with plants specifically to attract birds and insects. Water features are also excellent for attracting birds and their mating songs, aside from providing their own soundtrack to calm the mind and psychologically cool the air.

Touch

There are a myriad of different textures and surfaces that one can implement in a garden toenhance the tactile experience of it. Let’s start with a major component of most gardens, thelawn – nothing quite beats the feel of cool, soft grass between your toes. Then there are the other surfaces - smooth, sawn paving, warm decking and tactile sandstone spheres, for example.

In terms of planting, the exciting textures of foliage and flowers are almost endless, from the soft, felted leaves of  Lamb’s Ears (Stachys byzantina),

to the squirrel-tailed flowering stems of Pennisetum setaceum

and the  smooth, shiny, mahogany-coloured bark of the ornamental cherry, Prunus serrula. They all beg to be touched, caressed and enjoyed.

There’s fun to be had too – who can forget playing with Snapdragons (Antirrhinums) when they were a child?

Smell

There’s no end to the recommendations we could make where the sense of smell is concerned, anything from lavender and honeysuckle, to roses would provide a palpable feast for your nose. But look beyond flowers and appreciate the fragrance of foliage too – of course herbs are obvious choices, but some ornamental shrubs and trees also have aromatic foliage. The aroma of Nepeta, for example, can drive your cat wild with excitement, hence its common name – Catmint. For us, there are lemon-scented geranium leaves, the fresh smell of pine and the pungent fragrance of Choisya ternata (Mexican Orange Blossom), among many others. For best effect, try to plant your scented specimens close to entrances and pathways, where you can more easily appreciate their fragrance as you pass by.

Taste

To achieve a truly delectable, edible garden your best bet would be the addition of a mini-orchard, vegetable patch or herb garden, and nothing beats home-grown produce. However, if this is an impractical measure for you, or if yours is a purely flower-based garden, you can still grow edible plants.

 Introduce easily grown Nasturtiums to your plot, as these make for an excellent, colourful and peppery salad garnish during blooming season. A patch of Daylilies (Hemerocallis) wouldn’t go amiss either as these vivid blooms have a sweet, nutty flavour (and have earned a reputation in Chinese cuisine as excellent flavouring for soups!) Climbing plants can also provide floral interest as well as an edible bounty. 

Try Passion Flower (Passiflora caerulea), for example. It has exotic-looking purple and white flowers and these are followed by orange, egg-shaped fruits, which, while the bright red pulp is not perhaps as flavoursome as the variety you’d buy in the supermarket, is still stunning over ice-cream or in Champagne!

By Josh Ellison

Tricks to make your garden look bigger!

While an experienced gardener will have a knack for best taking advantage of the space they’ve got, for example with the correct balance of small to large plants or how their borders are positioned, there is one magic trick none of us can perform and that is expanding the space itself. Of course, if Harry Houdini were here he’d tell you the key to a good illusion is the mirrors, not the elephant. So as you’ve probably guessed, today’s article concerns means of giving the appearance of a larger garden than you actually possess.

Starting at ground level, we have the lines and shapes of a garden - specifically sectioned areas like lawns or paving. Due to the rectangular shape of many suburban gardens and box like connotations that geometric shapes invoke, it is often best to use fluid shapes such as circles or ovals when shaping your lawn. They not only disguise the boundaries but can also make a garden appear much wider. 

This can also apply to the paving that surrounds said lawns, as too many straight lines make the spaces seem constricted and unnatural. On that note, if you’ve got a small garden, try to avoid large paving slabs as these tend to overpower the more delicate elements of a garden and, by using smaller pieces, you’ll be able to implement a random paved technique that no doubt will be more pleasing to the eye.

(This is the same garden as the one above!)

Apart from your open spaces, careful planning concerning your planting scheme is also essential to enlarging the garden as a whole. Remember the basic principle of all interior designers: lighter equals larger, while darkness means confinement. As such, your deeper toned flowers should be centralised to your borders and surrounded by lighter flowers that will relieve their oppressive connotations. Whilst surrounding the back door with crimson blooms, for example, can present an image of warmth that will be associated with the building itself, it can confine the observer, with the brighter colours fighting for your attention. Aim for lighter colours in your beds to match the greatest space you can manipulate, the sky above them. Aside from colour you should also consider the textures of your plants, finely textured plants like Rosemary will reflect light differently to the heavy foliage of a Laurel, which means that careful layering can add depth to your garden, while heavy-handedness can make it look flat. 

Finally, you have the size of your plants which will vary depending on for what type of garden you’re aiming. Simply put, bigger is better, thousands of tiny shrubs and flower heads make a garden look cluttered, whereas a bold structural scheme can attest to the size of their environment. Then there’s the vertical approach - as vertical stripes make a dress seem longer, so do tall trees add a height to your garden that, even if you can’t touch it, you can imagine it.

While on the subject of vertical gardening, it is important to note the value of structures like archways and pergolas. Similar to the telescopic effect of putting your eye to a pin hole, a long corridor like this can give the illusion of length particularly if entwined with vibrant hanging flowers. There are also various ‘perspective’ arches on the market which have the same effect.

A garden can also be made to look longer by constructing paths that narrow in width as they progress down the plot.

Finally we have the oldest trick in the book, and one that brings us back to Mr. Houdini - mirrors. Reflective glass has been used by designers since time immemorial to double or triple the size of a room and there’s no reason not to apply this beyond the home, and into the garden. Most effective when placed facing an open space such as a lawn or a pretty planting scheme, but not so as to immediately reflect the viewer as they approach, they can give the illusion of another inviting garden beyond. Their illusion can be strengthened by the addition of a view of moving water that will lend fluidity to the image.

5 easy-to-grow-from-seed perennials

We are all perhaps familiar with the stress and difficulty that comes from attempting propagation of our beloved perennial plants using cuttings or division, particularly the ever present threat of diseases that are so easily spread through such techniques. And once you’ve got past the dilemma of choosing appropriate plant material, which disease preventative measures to take in disinfecting your various cuttings and prunings, applying rooting hormones to ensure the plant has a strong start, only to find they’ve all rotted off, well, you might just as well have had a few kids and at least get the chance of a thank you!

On the other hand, you have the option of growing direct from seeds. Of course this provides its own plethora of problems - particularly in that initial year of establishment, but it is an inexpensive way of increasing your stock and you’ll find below a list of five easy to grow perennials that even the most inexperienced gardener can cope with raising. Sow inside in early spring for flowering the same year. Just follow the instructions on the packet!

1. Achillea

Achillea, also known as Yarrow, has a reputation as one of the hardiest perennials in the world. Large, flat heads of tiny white, yellow, pink or terracotta flowers contrast well with the feathery grey or green foliage. They prefer sun and well-drained soil and they will tolerate dry conditions, though you should aim to water them twice weekly and fertilise as many times a season. In particularly rich soil Yarrow will spring to heights of up to a metre and may require staking.

2. Echinacea purpurea

Echinacea, aside from its ease of growth, will also provide distraction for nearby butterflies and bees.  Plant out approximately 60cms apart as they will soon clump up. The soil in question should be of neutral ph. and well drained, however Echinacea is fairly tolerant to clay soils provided they are afforded decent sunlight. Blooms from June to October with white or pink, daisy-like flowers with a prominent  central cone.

3. Lupin

Lupins make for an excellent border plant and were a great favourite in old cottage gardens, however, it is a slow burner in terms of propagation, so it’s important you observe patience. Sow early to allow the flowers time to mature for their mid-summer blooming period.  Lupins prefer a partially shady spot in the garden and an acidic or neutral soil and flower in a variety of colours, including bi-colours.

4. Penstemon

Penstemons have a long flowering season and come in a range of colours, from white, to pink and red, through to deep purple. They will perform best in a gravelly, well-drained soil and should be planted out near the end of spring to ensure no risk of frost degradation, making sure you provide enough space for each plant - to the tune of 45-60cms. Being a shallow rooted cultivar it is important that Penstemons be watered regularly and the soil be enriched with fertiliser throughout the growing season. I would also recommend a shallow layer of mulch to discourage nearby weeds.

5. Verbena bonariensis

This hardy perennial’s delicate appearance belies its tolerant nature. Its tiny mauve flowers are borne on tall, wiry stems, but it will flourish in a sunny or shaded dappled spot and, should it suffer frost damage, it will self-seed with interest on your losses. It is very tolerant to drought and sandy soils, though some organic matter is recommended in the initial planting, supplemented by regular fertiliser e.g. chicken manure. Verbena goes well in most styles of garden but contrasts superbly with banana trees, palms and bamboos in a tropical scheme.

By Josh Ellison

Water features can bring the pleasing elements of sound and light into your garden, but the argument between the traditional and contemporary is a long-standing one in any art form, and horticulture is no different. When it comes to the more peripheral aspects of a garden, such as water features, it is necessary to consider how the style of such a focal point will feature in the motif of the existing space. Also, as it is not necessarily a practical addition to your space, a water feature’s size and shape are very customisable, as it needs serve no purpose except the aesthetic.

So, let us begin with the traditional options, the utmost of which of course would be a classic pond or waterfall, because these forms are a regular occurrence in nature and thus are more traditional than any artificial design. Our previous editorials can be referenced for tips on how to approach such a construction. However, there may be a definite theme or stylistic period that you wish to evoke in your garden.

For example, the simple elegance of a Japanese garden might call for placement of a shishi odoshi. Roughly translated to ‘deer scare’, this graceful piece of physics is composed of a bamboo tube suspended on a fulcrum, weighted at one end and hollowed out at the other. The hollow will gradually fill with water causing it to pivot and void into the basin of the feature which in turn will cause the weighted end to strike the stony surround with a distinctive clunk. The beauty of this feature lies not only in its synonymity with Japanese culture, but also the simplicity with which it presents itself and its gradual grace.

Or, you might want to create a formal, canal-style water feature in the Italian tradition, or an intricate, tiled, Moroccan –style courtyard pond - the possibilities are virtually endless.

There is also the option of a traditional free standing, or wall-mounted stone fountain with which we’re of course familiar with from many of the major squares in our local city or from the courtyards of many of our stately homes. These are available in a range of shapes and designs and as such they successfully bridge the gap between modernity and tradition, being adaptable to the needs of the gardener as either reproductive of the past or indicative of the future.

However, while simplicity can be a feature of some traditional examples, it is perhaps the defining feature of contemporary horticulture, not to mention exterior design. No water feature greater exemplifies the philosophy of ‘less being more’ than the water wall, available as either a free standing structure or mounted on an existing wall, it acts as both a fountain and a mirror thus using the old interior design trick of illusory expansion.

In a modern take on the rocky waterfall, we have a variety of stone sculptures, perhaps the most attractive of which is the drilled rainbow sandstone sphere - you’ve probably seen these little beauties scattered among the show gardens this year, as they seem to have spiked in popularity recently. The basic premise is this; the natural colouring of sandstone is heightened by exhuming a ball of the stuff, sanding it smooth and tactile and then allowing water to run over its surface, to give added brilliance to its rings of natural colour.

Also popular is the stainless steel,’ letter box’ shape water feature which can be fitted to a wall, so that when activated it will emit a pleasing, vertical curtain of water.

It should be mentioned, of course, that all water features, whatever the style, benefit from good lighting to create an exciting dimension in your night-time garden.

By Josh Ellison

n conjunction with our regular editorials bringing you the latest news feeds and suggestions from the gardening world, Floral and Hardy will now also be presenting a colour focused commentary - a regular piece that is devoted solely to the co-ordination of floral colour schemes in your garden, kicking off with the primary colours.

This week, we’ll be covering red, perhaps the boldest, and one of the most exciting of colours, producing a dramatic effect in the garden. Here are just some of our favourite red flowers:

Floral and Hardy’s Five Fave Red Flowers:

1. Geum ‘Mrs Bradshaw’

Also known as ‘Bell Bank’ or ‘Avens’, this herbaceous perennial is perfect for early flowering, blooming as it does with double, red flowers on wiry stems from May right through to September,  whilst also providing attractive ground cover foliage. Due to this cultivars appetite for sun, Geums should be sited close to the front of your borders so that it cannot be smothered by larger plants. It should take advantage of any available shelter for, while they’re resistant to frost, the flower itself is vulnerable to weathering. Although Bell Bank can survive in most soils, it will not thrive in extremes of wet or dry. Heavy clay should also be avoided and for best results the soil should be enriched with compost before planting.

2. Papaver ‘Goliath’

Oriental Poppies are one of the most vibrant additions one could make to an early summer garden, this one with huge, papery, red flowers with black centres and distinctive foliage. The only disadvantage is that once they have finished flowering the leaves tend to die down leaving a gap in the border. However, if you cut the plant down once the flowers go over, you may get a repeat flowering in the same season. Although they like sun, too much heat can stunt their growth, nor do they react well to high levels of humidity. Make sure there's a few inches of soil above the crown of the plant and avoid clay based soils, as once the roots are established they need to remain well drained. Also make sure the soil is close to neutral as high acidity will inhibit growth.

3. Kniphofia uvaria

Also known by the handles ‘Red Hot Poker’ and ‘Torch Lily’ due to the tiki torch resemblance that the form of its red-tipped blooms have, this striking plant will flower from July – September. This plant has high light requirements, however, due to its long stem should be provided with support canes if it is to be planted in exposed areas. Fortunately other aspects of the plant require very little attention as it is known for its drought and heat tolerance. For best effect the base leaves should be trimmed following the summer bloom and the flowering stems cut down.

- This was one of the blooms that we unexpectedly saw yesterday!

4. Dahlia ‘Bednall Beauty’

This cultivar will make an excellent addition to the rouge palette. With an Award of Garden Merit (AGM) to its name, this vibrant perennial prefers full sun and a well-drained soil.  It has deep bronze-purple foliage, contrasting beautifully with its dark red, double flowers from late summer to autumn. It is recommended that the Dahlia be located in a sunny, sheltered position and a rich loam soil will also help the propagation of the flowers, as will watering and regular dead-heading throughout the summer. If you live in a mild location, you can risk leaving the tubers in the ground over winter, but if not, wait until the foliage is blackened by frost, then lift the tubers, remove the stems and foliage and store in a dry, frost-free place until spring, when you can plant them out again.

5. Euphorbia griffithii ‘Fireglow’

A relative of the showy ‘Poinsettia’ that we tend to only see at Christmas, the outdoor variety of this popular perennial is much longer lasting! It is aptly named as it will bloom a beautiful, carmine red, with an orange core through late spring and early summer. The Euphorbia is one of the most agreeable cultivars on our list, being happy in full sun or part shade, exposed or sheltered and in soils of most levels of acidity. It is suggested though, that the soil be fairly dense and humus rich, as light soils can invite Euphorbia’s invasive nature.

By Josh Ellison

Whilst travelling around London yesterday visiting some of our current garden projects, imagine our amazement when we saw gardens with plants in full bloom that has no business being around at this time of the year.

Our journey took much longer than it should as we just had to stop and take photographs just to make sure our eyes hadn’t deceived us, especially as they were alongside the discarded Christmas Trees that were waiting to be collected for recycling!

You may remember that around this time last year it was particularly cold and we were experiencing a period of heavy snow, so we could hardly see the gardens, let alone any of the plants!

The best of the bunch that we saw were:

1. Kniphofia (Red Hot Poker) This perennial with its tall spikes of soft yellow flowers with scarlet tips normally flowers from July to September.

2. Choisya ternata (Mexican Orange Blossom)  This rounded evergreen with divided, green leaves and star-shaped  scented white flowers normally blooms in June and July

3. Hebe This rounded evergreen with reddish stems, spear-shaped leaves and long lavender flower racemes should be flowering in July and August.

4. Pink Rose both this and the yellow one below should be blooming from Summer through to Autumn so they both seem to be lingering in this mild weather.

5. Yellow Rose

Usually we are beginning to see the first shoot of spring bulbs peeping through the cold soil but all of these confused bloomers gave a wonderful splash of colour across the gardens, which was quite unexpected at this time of year, but utterly delightful.

By Toni Jux

As promised in last week’s editorial on delectable domestic mushrooms from Oysters to Puffballs, here is the twin article that will inform on the appearance, and effects, of some of Britain’s most dangerous fungi.

1. Yellow Stainer (Agaricus xanthodermus)

Often confused, to the folly of its pickers, with the Horse Mushroom, this species is a militant little bugger that will not only damage your insides but stain your clothes and fingers yellow when cut. The Horse mushroom is among the most common growing fungus, with a white creamy cap and grey-brown interior which are both features it shares with the Stainer. Fortunately the Stainer is easily identifiable due to its titular habit of bruising yellow should its stem be cut or its heads tapped even lightly.

2. Death Cap (Amanita phalloides)

Perhaps the most notorious threat among the picking community is the Death Cap, a clandestine foe that will often possess a pleasant taste to lull you into false security, not to mention a delayed toxic effect during which time many vital organs will be maliciously attacked by the toxin. Couple this with its apparent physical similarities to many edible species, namely the Puffballs from our previous list, and it becomes paramount you note its distinctions-particularly its overpowering sickly scent.

3. European Destroying Angel (Amanita virosa)

Aptly named for its pure white colouring and furled wing appearance, the Angel is closely related to the Death Cap in that they both comprise the amatoxins and phallotoxins that make them so deadly. Recognisable by its spongy and wilted exterior, symptoms include diarrhoea, vomiting and liver failure making the European Destroying Angel one of the world’s most dangerous known toadstools.

4. Fool’s Mushroom (Amanita verna)

A coupling of these slender and aesthetic fungi might draw comparison to the saucers of the World’s Fair – kind, I suppose, to supply such a pleasing view to one they’ve just doomed! Possessing the same liver destroying component as the death cap, not to mention looks to kill, the Fool’s Mushroom is all too often mistaken for other common edible varieties and unfortunately, like the rest of this group, can be found widely distributed in English and European woodland.

5. Livid Entoloma (Entoloma sinuatum)

The final entry is something of an imposter, who poses as the number one on our previous list of edible fungi, and while it is not a life threatening consumption in small doses, it does bear a striking resemblance to the St. George mushroom. In fact this cultivar is such an effective double agent that it alone is believed to be responsible for  over 10% of all mushroom poisoning in Europe, providing highly unpleasant gastro-intestinal repercussions.

Honourable Mention

While not strictly causing a physical ailment, the Psilocybin species of mushroom, more colloquially known as ‘Liberty Cap’ or ‘Magic Mushroom’, can provide particular psychological distress if taken in large quantities. Symptoms are reported to include distortion of shapes and distance not to mention a consummate benevolence. The counter cultural thinking this can cause may be considered a danger by some, however, I hope the more open-minded horticulturalists among you will not throw these fungi in the same pigeon hole as its poisonous cousins!

By Josh Ellison

Heed the Seeds! (Six Easy to Grow, Half-Hardy Annuals)

The January sales might not apply to gardening, but garden bargains can begin early with ordering seeds in preparation for the planting period of early spring to give yourselves plenty of inexpensive colour in the garden this summer.

In light of this, here is a collection of six beautiful and easy to grow, half-hardy plants ready to be sown early in the New Year.

1. Cleome (Spider Flower)

A common and well known cultivar, the Spider Flower is named thus for its exceedingly long pink and white stamens and seed pods that sprout in half dozen clutches giving the appearance of spiders legs. These clutches sprout at the crown of stems up to six feet high. When cultivating this plant you shouldn’t get too hung up on the quality of soil which is largely inconsequential, as the Cleome is very hardy to droughts and a lack of nutrients, however it will only thrive if watered regularly. Space is the key requirement and as such I would recommend spacing of three feet per plant.

2. Cosmos

These white, pink or deep burgundy-red, daisy-like blooms will flower in early to late summer, needing only poor soil and partial sunlight, and will require minimal maintenance to produce vibrant and healthy flowers over a long period. However, be wary of over fed soil as this can lead to a more foliage focused specimen, rather than a high number of blooms. Deadheading is also an effective means of ensuring consistency in the flowering plants.

3. Impatiens (Busy Lizzie)

These popular bloomers will thrive either as a potted indoor plant or as a summer bedding plant, however now is the time to begin planting, Lizzie is favoured for her bright foliage and petals, ranging between white, pink, mauve and red. They are also a highly versatile plant in that they can grow in beds, hanging baskets and tubs alike. They are well suited in either sun or shade and flower all summer long, generally no higher than 1 ft.

4. Ipomoea (Morning Glory)

One of grandmother’s favourite climbers and it’s no wonder as to why – with their bright blue, trumpet-shaped flowers, they are stunning. Soak the seeds before planting to ensure germination and once the heads begin to poke through, put in some supports gently winding the stems themselves around the base. Fairly resistant to droughts and happy in a majority of soil quality, these little beauties should be planted out, as should all half-hardy annuals, after the last chance of frost and then evenly fed and watered for best results.

5. Petunia

Available in a range of different cultivars depending on your preferred colour scheme, the Petunia geminates in two weeks and yields a velvety, trumpet-shaped bloom varying between pink, white, pink, purple, orange,red and sometimes even bi-coloured. Make sure to plant them in full sun and keep the surrounding soil moist, watering once every 2-5 days. Regular dead-heading will allow new shoots to flourish.

6. Thunbergia (Black Eyed Susan)

The Thunbergia is an extremely attractive vine with characteristic yellow flowers with a black eye, hence the common name. It should be sewn indoors up two months before the final frost - this will provide the seedlings enough time to establish before the start of spring, thus allowing you to plant directly into the garden when spring does arrive. Whether you provide supports depends entirely on the purpose of the plants, whether you wish them to sprawl outward as ground cover or upward as a standing vine.

Just follow the instructions on the packet for a riot of colour in your this year!

By Josh Ellison

Mistletoe - second to the Christmas tree, it is the staple yuletide plant. Songs are written about it, doors adorned with it and kisses won under it, but this seasonal decoration and great matchmaker is under threat, it is believed.

The RHS is awash with rumours that the fabled mistletoe is in steady decline, with a parallel being drawn to its host trees who are suffering a similar fate. The theory goes that, due to a 60% decline in domestic orchard growing, the vegetation that would normally house the festive species has been less available.

In response to this, an action group known as the Mistletoe League Project have begun a survey into the harvesting technique applied to mistletoe which, as they say, is capable of flourishing on many other host species, but is most readily available from fruit trees due to the ease of access this offers.  The long term goal of this survey is to replenish the mistletoe population which you can help with.

If you’re lucky enough to have some growing nearby you can collect berries from which to propagate. The first and most important choice you will make is the selection of suitable fruits. If the berry is yellow or green then that means it is not ripe and should be avoided, you should aim for pure white or nothing at all. Alternatively if you don’t live near a ready supply, any specimens you’ve been using over the festive period can be revived by soaking them in water. Store them in a jar of water and keep the jar cool until planting season in late February.

The second phase of mistletoe cultivation is selecting an appropriate host. While it is established that they will do very well on apple trees, it will also do well on pear trees or even Pyracantha. Rose bushes are also a good place to start as their brittle branches will allow the mistletoe to densely intertwine into a strong foundation. Whilst Mistletoe is parasitic, unless it gets too big, it is not generally harmful to its host, but nevertheless, always choose established, healthy specimens to try to ensure success.

When approaching larger hosts such as the aforementioned tree species, it is difficult to strike the right balance between sunlight exposure and vulnerability to predators. 

There are two techniques to combat this; the first is fairly acrobatic in that you should attempt to locate the seeds in the crooks and hollows of the tree's higher branches - this will allow plenty of exposure to sunlight and you can ward off hungry birds with a well-placed sheet of hessian secured with twine.

The second technique involves cutting slots beneath the tree bark and creating small ‘pages’ that can be folded back over the seed. It is important with both that you removed the seed from a plump, hydrated berry with some of the flesh intact to further encourage initial germination.

Remember, however, that mistletoe propagation is a numbers game, as even a healthy seed has a fairly low rate of germination - less than 10% generally - so be meticulous about marking where you have planted them so you don’t end up shooting yourself in the foot!

By Josh Ellison

This week I bring you the first in a two part piece concerning those fine fungal frequenters of our forests - the mushrooms. This first part concerns the edible of their kin that you should look out for on your next woodland walk. 

Of course our meagre list of five doesn’t account for even 1% of the varieties that pepper our precious isles, which is why, for fear of a lawsuit as much as anything, next week’s editorial will centre on their more nefarious cousins!  With the breaking news that a couple in Australia have recently been killed by eating poisonous mushrooms they mistook for edible, it is vitally important to make sure that you correctly identify specimens before you eat them. I f possible take a good illustrated guide book when you are foraging, so that you can be sure.

Five Edible British Fungi:

1. St.George’s Mushroom (Calocybe gambosa)

In yesteryear you would expect to find this species in early to mid-April however, with the warm wet springs that have graced us in the last decade, they tend to arrive a week or so later. The St. George is recognisable for its creamy white to yellow stem, gills, very plump and stout bulb and slight cucumber smell. They are best fried simply in butter and are possessed of a distinct meaty flavour which will intensify with age. Care must be taken not to confuse it with the highly poisonous ‘Inocybe erubescens’, which has a more pungent fruity smell and bruises red.

2. Chicken of the Woods (Laetiporus)

This prolific species can be found from the beginning of May and often grows in huge thatches of up to 10 kilograms. If it does grow locally, you should have no trouble in spotting it due to its vibrant colouring. Look out for large tree bound contusions, bright orange in colour and yellow undersides littered with small pores, but if the colours seem faded then this will indicate the plant’s ageing and the likelihood of an unsavoury meal. You should also avoid any specimens bound to Yew or Eucalyptus trees as this combination can often taint the fungus and make it poisonous. Finally, avoid eating great portions or serving the plant to young children as despite its rich flavour, there are scattered reports that it possesses hallucinogenic side effects.

3. Chanterelle (Cantharellus cibarius)

While this may be the rarest addition to our list, it’s not as flavoursome as some of the other varieties mentioned, although it is very high in vitamins C and D and also potassium. Recognisable for its unusual flute-like shape, yellow to orange colouring and gill-like ridges under the cap, it is most readily found in pine forests. It will provide an aromatic and subtle food stuff, though it is supposedly better utilised as a vodka flavouring! We recommend it as an ingredient in a simple pasta dish, so as not to overpower it.

4. Giant Puffball (Calvatia gigantea)

With the end of winter we must relegate the Puffball to next year’s picking, as they are known to be at their best during the months of September and October. However, an intact, edible specimen is also one of the most prized finds of the ‘shroomaphile’. Habitually growing anywhere between a few centimetres and over a metre  in diameter, these spherical white orbs will break from their stems upon ripening and roll the forest floor for up to two years releasing spores! To ensure you’ve hit gold, halve the fruit and look for any yellow or green patches, if they’re absent then - run Charlie! Run all the way home for only pure white flesh and timely  use provides a flavoursome feast. The means of preparation are practically endless as they can be diced like conventional mushrooms - sautéed, pureed for soups and broths or sliced thickly, covered with breadcrumbs and fried to accompany steaks.

5. Oyster Mushrooms (Pleurotus ostreatus)

This might be called ‘the evergreen’ of edible mushrooms as, although their heyday tends to fall around mid winter, particularly after a hard frost, they can be found at any time of year, mainly attached to hardwood trees. It gets its name from the shape of its white, grey or brown cap and often smells of anise. It is best suited to stir-frying.

By Josh Ellison

I Wanna Rock -

A rockery can make for a very interesting focal point in a garden and also an excellent platform on which to plant choice specimens where they can be raised and appreciated. It also allows you to manipulate the height and shape of your garden, much like directors with their stage.

First of all, pick a site in full sun as, not only can the monotonous colour of rockery stone appear very drab in a shady spot, but many of the alpines you will plant need full sun to flourish.

When cultivating your chosen spot, it’s important to note the threat that weeds will pose on the aesthetic of your project and eliminate them with extreme prejudice before you start!

Next you should think about forming the mound for the rockery and this can include anything ranging from old discarded bricks or rubble, to up-turned pieces of unwanted turf, or just plain soil. Alternatively, raise the level of ground, I would suggest a few railway sleepers as a cheap and effective alternative to tons of soil! For the planting medium, if your soil happens to be particularly heavy, try mixing it with some sand or grit as it needs to be free draining for the type of plants you will grow. Height and shape are also important for the same reason - if the rockery is on a downward slope then water will be dissipated much more quickly and efficiently.

The second phase will involve actually deciding which types of rock you wish to use and the priority here is to make it seem as natural as possible. To this end, try to choose stone that is indigenous to your area, or at least try to  avoid the beach ball shaped stones that they have at garden centres as these have an inescapable artificiality to them that would ruin your rockery design. Instead try to stick to flat shaped rocks as these give the tectonic impression that will cement the sites authenticity. Always bear in the mind the size of your rockery and scale the stones to match. The structure of a rockery is much like any good mosaic, the pieces don’t fit together like a puzzle but rather their pattern emerges from their seeming randomness. However, you also need to avoid the ‘currant bun’ effect and group stones to give the impression of natural rocky outcrops.

Make a base layer of your largest rocks, overlapping them and half submerging them if need be, sloping the stones backwards into the soil. At each level you should seek to increase and decrease the height and stone size respectively, however be wary of creating the overall slope too steep as this can lead to a miniature landslide in heavy downpours! It is also crucial that you have a basic idea of the planting scheme of your rockery and leave planting pockets in the rocks accordingly. Once you have planted out, add a mulch of shale or gravel, both to add to the aesthetic look of the rockery, but also to protect the plants from winter wet rotting their crowns.

Finally, why not consider adding a water feature as the final crowning centrepiece to a rockery, which would not only provide some fluidity to a stationary feature, but will also help to attract wildlife to your garden.

By Josh Ellison

Although there will be plenty of toil involved in raising your own produce aisle, that part does not begin for at least a few months. The genesis of the vegetable patch occurs in the middle of winter when, looking into your roast dinners, you wonder about all the bad noise that the supermarkets are getting for their treatment of crops and whether you might do a better job. The answer is, yes you can!

Your first priority when deciding a site for a veg patch is sunlight, as the greater their exposure to it will determine the variety of what you can grow. So, plant on each extreme of your north/south axis to allow full sunlight to hit the length of the plot, also make sure that this will not be compromised by existing trees or fences. If possible, for convenience sake, try to plant near the kitchen.

Size is a major part of your planning process and depends entirely on your means - address why you’re growing the plot. First time hobby? Economic solution to the loss of your nectar card? The reasoning dictates how large or small the plot will be based on how much of your garden you are willing to invest.

If a larger plot is out of the question, or you’re unsure of what size would suit your needs, then may I suggest a simple window box. Starting with a minor project like a herb garden will not only familiarise you with the plants themselves, but will also provide a point of comparison to base future projects on. 

Other small scale ideas include grow-in-the-bag tomatoes and there is also a range of salad stuff that you can grow in a window box or garden tub, cropping repeatedly from single cuttings, such as lettuce, mustard and pak choi. You can even grow potatoes in a large pot on your patio.

If you have a bit more room, and time (!) you might consider something larger scale. The style of bedding you tuck your plants into is more a cosmetic choice. There are no hard and fast rules only preferences, but the raised bed has seen a boom among vegetable gardeners recently for its adaptability. Being a contained environment it will allow you to grow on otherwise unsuitable sites and also affords complete mastery of the soil content and drainage. And if that weren’t enough, it’s certainly a lot easier on your back! Another advantage of a simple timber, or sleeper built bed, is that of an easier workload, as you don’t have to double dig every season. But, if your vegetable patch is more frivolous than that of a kitchen gardener, then you may want to avoid the labour of building a raised bed or the cost of buying one.

The thing to remember is the commitment being made if you’re serious about growing and propagating a successful cabbage patch or potato pit, however it’s not without its advantages. Aside from the aforementioned money saved, a vegetable patch also provides an educational activity in which young children can partake, teaching values like independence and respect for living things.

Finally, I’m suggesting a list of five staple favourites, both for their ease of cultivation and their popularity on the dinner table. I would recommend trying Carrots, Potatoes, Runner Beans, Parsnips and Sprouts to start and see how you get along.

By Josh Ellison

Trees serve many purposes in the garden. Whether it be providing excellent punctuation in your borders, housing a throng of blackbirds, or even hiding an unsightly feature on your Eden’s horizon, they are a gardening necessity, albeit perhaps an expensive one. However, this need not always be the case, though you may not be prepared for the growing-from-seed option which, while cost effective will see many a winter before producing results. One means of saving money on your larger vegetation is to seek out the bare rooted alternative to container-grown planting.

Obviously the preparation phase will be more time consuming but what are we gardeners if not lovers of the graft? Fortunately the techniques you’ll employ before, during and after the planting are universal to all sizes and species. Obviously the type of tree you choose will be entirely at your discretion, however, I might suggest some tips for the sake of quality control. - look out for signs of fungal growth such as toad stools or white growth under the bark. Healthy foliage is important too-although if you’re shopping through winter this may be difficult to check - if the leaves are tufted or there’s any evidence of branch die-back, then find another specimen.

Once you’ve secured your tree it is always best to plant it as soon as possible, but if that is not going to happen, you ought to check the roots by hand and if they feel brittle or dry then soak them in a bucket of water for a while and store them in their bags until planting.

When it comes to the planting hole, it may seem illogical, but while digging your planting hole too shallow is a common mistake that leaves the young tree open to drying out, digging it too deep is also a grave one. A good tip is to put half an inch between the soil and where the bark proper begins, soil here would rot this outer shell causing sap deprivation to the upper limbs and a speedy demise.  A good marker is to dig as deep as the high water mark on the stem/trunk.  This mark will generally fall slightly below the trees' root collar and the collar should be level with the lip of the hole. Make sure the roots go in dripping and place them into the hole, spreading them out carefully.

As a buffer against harsh wind conditions or heavy rain fall, it is also suggested you use stakes to offer support to the sapling and also ensure it grows to an aesthetic shape. You ought to place the stakes at a diagonal with the main trunk and securely fastened with ties to avoid chafing of the trunk.

However all this isn’t worth a paper hat in a rainstorm if your hole is not properly filled out and pressed down. Make certain that soil is sufficiently compact, as this is the surest method of protecting your trees foundations. In terms of nourishment, it wouldn’t go amiss to also mix your soil with a rich organic mulch or loam and then dust the whole job with a layer of compost. Water heavily for the initial few days as your main concern is making sure that the tree is well fed while it adjusts to the new environment. After a week or so of good watering the ground will stay wet for several weeks, but that early water is crucial for the trees survival.

So go on - plant a tree and enjoy for years to come.

By Josh Ellison

There’s much to be said for a healthy bird population in the garden - in winter most of all. When your blooms have retreated from cold weather and the space becomes a mesh of grey and brown, particularly with the shorter days, it can make for a depressing sight. Having these little nodes of life and colour infest the garden can be a blessing but what are the best ways to ensure this?

Like any animal, the birds’ main concerns are food and water. Unfortunately, most insects, which provide the source of summer food, tend to make for the underground when the first chill sets in, so your best bet is a variety of seeds to compensate for this scarcity. Sunflower and Nyger seeds are particularly effective and are known for attracting the beautiful Goldfinch species, but avoid mixed bags of seed if possible, because, despite their agreeable price tags, the majority of the biomass won’t appeal to winter birds.

You can use flaked suet, preferably mixed with fruit or nuts, to attract Robins, Blackbirds and Tits among others,  or, for my friend in Oklahoma, I would suggest apple chunks, cracked corn and peanut pieces to lure in those Cardinals. Peanuts are good for Tits and Woodpeckers too. Wrens on the other hand prefer some grated cheese or animal fat and compressed insect cakes will do wonders for a Finch population. When it comes to cheese shavings and fruit, it is obvious that feed cages won’t be effective as the food itself will be too large to fit through the mesh, instead leave these on a raised surface and, to detract from the threat of insects, create a perimeter of oyster shell grit to discourage them. Squirrels will take advantage of these food sources if they’re not properly discouraged, the most effective means of doing this is tailoring the feeding station, as a squirrel can reach most locations a bird can. To this end, I’d recommend wire mesh around your food stuff of which only a beak could take advantage.

The placement of bird feeders is important too and, if possible, locate your feeder in the cover of an existing tree or structure. However, it is worth noting that you shouldn’t invest absolutely in one spot for your feeders. Obviously location should be chosen for visibility, so that you may enjoy the activities of your new guests, however, if you want to avoid the necessary fouling that a long term feeding station guarantees then I would suggest changing the position of the feeder every few months to avoid a nasty build up.

Next we have water, and bird baths are an age old solution as they can be replenished once empty and any ice that settles on them can easily be broken. If you’re lucky enough to have a pond in the garden, make sure you keep a part of it free from ice too for your feathered friends.

The only other requirement for this endeavour is patience - any feeding cycle should be expected to take several weeks before fruition and even then the initial numbers may be lower than you expected. Don’t despair! Persevere and even if you’re garden doesn’t feel the benefits in winter, it will definitely compensate you will the surplus of nests and chicks in the spring season as your hard work comes home to roost. (Pun utterly intended!)

By Josh Ellison

If you’re looking for something to do over the festive break, there are many heritage sites and public gardens that over the winter months pay particular attention to Christmas and seasonal themes. The biggest frequenter of the headlines this year has of course been Hyde Park’s Winter Wonderland, but below you’ll also find four other sites we deemed worthy to mention in the same breath. However, let’s kick off with the big one itself:

1. Hyde Park aka Winter Wonderland

Less devoted to the theme of horticulture as it is to catering to our Christmas spirit, Hyde Park’s winter coat is highly focused on entertainment for a variety of ages and wears the badge of a Christmas carnival. Having found time to visit this year, I can safely confirm this as the most  family-friendly spot on our list, complete with carousel, two ferris wheels and a myriad of novelty food stands, the park provides a welcome break for a parent shopping or a child shopped for. Also great for any relatives visiting from outside the city.

2. Tamworth Snowdome

The Snowdome, located just north-east of Birmingham, provides year-round ski and snow board facilities, however at this auspicious time of year they transform the dome into Santa’s wonderland. The host of attractions includes authentic reindeer and a purpose built grotto complete with a giant Christmas tree, all this as the finale to your walk in the enchanted forest amid real snowfall.

3. Brighton Pavilion Ice Rink

Having visited the Pavilion earlier in the year, I would strongly recommend this site as an all-day event, after taking a grand tour of one of England’s most beautiful palaces you can slip on a pair of skates and enjoy the frozen sea breeze on ice. An hour session comes in at a pricey £13 per person but this can be justified by the stunning views you’ll be able to enjoy whilst skating, or the clear sky should you fall over!

4. Osborne House

This little gem harks back to the days of Scrooge and Tiny Tim, as a diorama of Victorian England and Christmas time. It is also an attraction to those interested in royal history, as it was once the private retreat of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. The normal run of Orsborne is that of a Victorian restoration, but this is adjusted annually for the festive season.

5. Oxford

Being more of a city wide event, Oxford is famous for its dedication to the ornate and the festive. The whole town is aglow with a procession of lantern light, huge scale choirs and a small scale festival in the ilk Edinburgh’s eponymous celebrations that includes playhouses and museums not to mention Oxford Castle.

Wherever you are, get out and enjoy!

By Josh Ellison

Many people are moving towards developing a veg patch in their gardens - a small corner of land separate from what will inevitably become one of two things - a recreational area for child and adult alike, or what is effectively a living painting, creating your own palette of visual loveliness.

However this week I’m going to suggest a few species that would argue that the aesthetic and the practical need not be mutually exclusive.

I’m talking about unusual vegetables. Not in reference to John Wyndham's titular Triffids however, but to the ilk of the purple Mangetout  ‘Shiraz’ that made RHS news recently.

Here are five other candidates:

Yellow Toms

Several major domestic gardening stores can provide a variety of this sweeter alternative cultivar - the yellow tomato is well known for its less acidic content thus allowing its natural sugars to penetrate through to the taste buds. The trade-off for this is a slightly lower level of Vitamin C. In terms of cultivation this species should be treated like its more common red cousin. It will require plenty of sunlight and heat and this, combined with the preference of cane support, would indicate a greenhouse as the ideal setting. You should avoiding wetting the leaves in fruit whilst watering as this, along with poor ground support, could lead to rot.

Purple Carrots

Despite the common association between this root vegetable and the colour orange, it is believed that actually the purple carrot long pre-dates its orange descendant. Believing to originate over five millennia ago in what is now modern Afghanistan, it is supposed that the original purple got cross pollinated with the yellow and white varieties that populated the tables of the Roman Empire, finally ending up in the hands of Dutch horticulturalists, who tailored the finished product for sweetness and practicality. Whether the colouring was altered to emulate Holland’s house of Orange remains to be seen!

Blue Sweet Corn

As the name suggests this variety of corn retains a steely blue complexion before and after cooking, the latter appearing a somewhat more mellow tone compared to the former. However this dwarf variety usually levels out three feet tall earning the species the title ‘The only corn you can grow in a container’.  The ears generally grow between 4-6 inches long and yield a far sweeter flavour to their yellow counterparts.

Strawberry Popcorn

On the subject of corn, this unique plant can provide some truly British popcorn. The seedling if sown correctly - around April, in a heated container and good soil - will yield fist sized ears with the shape and blush of English strawberries. Aside from being a great lure to gardening for children, their heritage means that once popped it will provide a slightly fruity tinge to the corn. Even if home cinema isn’t your bag, they certainly make for pleasant mantelpiece fodder.

Red Brussel Sprouts

This long season harvest has made news recently for its apparent popularity around the festive season, so much so that supermarket chains like M&S have begun to stock them. However this may be due to a common misconception that the sprouts themselves appear crimson. The raw vegetables are actually a rich purple and it is only the cooking process that causes their red colours to bleed through.

So, here you have the start not only to a more interesting vegetable patch, but one that may be easier to tailor to your aesthetic preferences, now the carrots can sit with the clematis and the tomatoes with the sun flowers without concern for a colour clash.

Pretty and practical, and not a little tasty.

By Josh Ellison

Winter has its ups and downs and whilst we’re treated with festive cheer and an excuse to eat all the food we can stomach, we must also suffer cold weather and darkened days. But, while the sun may be dimmed, gardens have never been brighter and here are ten reasons why:

1. Cornus alba ‘Sibirica’

Otherwise known as Red-barked Dogwood, no pun intended, this cultivar has been granted the esteemed honour of Award of Garden Merit, based on its beauty and hardiness despite a very low level of maintenance. Grown in full sun it will yield bright red bark and need only be trimmed once every spring to provide best results.

2. Salix alba ‘Vitellina’

This large deciduous willow will provide flowers in the form of catkins and and pale green foliage, not to mention an imposing figure in the garden as they can reach heights of up to 30m. But the beauty of this tree becomes apparent in winter when the stems take on a deep golden yellow colour.

3. Rubus cockburnianus

Also known as the White-Stemmed Bramble, Rubus is a highly durable upright hedge that is at its best in the winter months, providing an understated purple/white colour scheme on its thorny stems. On a side note, this species also performs as a filler for empty spaces in your garden with lush green summer foliage.

4. Callicarpa bodinieri ‘Profusion’

Not to be confused with its ‘giraldii’ variant, this violet coloured berry has none of the symbiotic requirements that made the aforementioned cultivar such a tricky customer. Capable of thriving on its own, this vibrant fruiting shrub should be a definite consideration for your winter garden.

5. Pernettya mucronata

This evergreen shrub will perform best in any acidic soil with a bit of sunlight, it is compact and thus not a threat to the early blooming plants of spring, and throughout the winter will fruit with large white, red or purple berries.

6. Pyracantha

Pyracantha is a large, thorny, evergreen shrub that will complement the list so far with further crimson, orange or yellow fruit and the promise of white flowers in the summer. They are also a sizeable investment in beauty as they can grow up to 6m tall, but can also be pruned to form a dense, impenetrable hedge.

7. Erica carnea

The beauty of this cultivar is how extremely hardy it is. Able to flourish in almost any soil type or weather, it is a good fall back option. So durable are they, that they will happily flower through snow and frost, not to mention smother weeds whilst only requiring attention every few years. Flowers come in white, mauve or pink and foliage can also range from darkest emerald to lime green.

8. Hamamelis mollis

The Chinese Witch Hazel will provide gorgeous, fragrant yellow, orange or red flowers in the December to February period and thus is ideal for a winter garden and for cutting for indoors. Best to provide a layer of silt or gravel in order to help its root growth by ensuring well drained soil.

9. Mahonia japonica ‘Charity’

Similar to the Witch Hazel, the ‘Charity’ cultivar of this already popular Mahonia will provide a fragrant dash of yellow to your winter canvas not to mention a brutal beauty with its spiky green foliage. The blue tits love them too!

10. Viburnum bodnantense

Treated to a rich, loamy soil there are few winter blooms that can match Viburnum’s ‘Dawn’ cultivar for beauty or perfume, bearing tight clusters of pink and white flowers with the bonus of a fine scent.

By Josh Ellison

At this point we’ve all been nipped by the Christmas bug and the responsibilities that come along with it, from decorating the house to seeing that a sizeable turkey is secured. However a key concern, if you have not already addressed it, is how to shelter your garden for the oncoming frosts and weathering.

I’ve kicked off by preparing a list of ten essential steps to be taken to ensure you have something resembling a garden come spring time.

1. Preventing Frost Damage

The vast majority of freeze prevention can be done at the gardens conception by the clever selection of which species to include, depending on your local climate. Hardier species are obviously of lesser concern however, of course, planting based exclusively on this attribute can lead to a rather limited palette, so we need to look at how to protect the less hardy specimens.

2. Protecting trained plants

One of the most susceptible types of plants are those that are grown in exposed areas of your garden, particularly those more tenders plants that require cane support such as climbers or vines. An effective and cheap way to protect them is the sandwich technique whereby you erect a wall of cane or chicken wire either side of the specimen and fill the gap between with a layer of fleece or straw, this will not only provide extra support in high winds but will insulate the plant against the coming cold.  This is also effective for plants trained against walls.

3. Palms and Ferns

When it comes to large leaved and crowned plants, protecting that crown is paramount. To do this, bunch the large foliage together in order to prevent them acting as a sail tossed in high winds and thus degrading the strength of their stems and the crown itself. You may also wish to insulate the trunks by wrapping them in hessian or other similar material in a baguette version of the sandwich technique, again bolstering this with a straw stuffing.

4. Exotics

Plants like the Banana are unsurprisingly vulnerable to winter conditions and require greater diligence than most to ensure their protection. Half a dozen wooden stakes encircling the trunk should provide a good frame around which to wrap gossamer or fleece followed by a compact thick layer of straw. All the leaves and side shoots should be removed beforehand and the stake tent should reach the height of the trunk.

5. Keep the evergreens green

By applying an extra thick layer of mulch to the base stems of evergreens you provide a protective roof to the soil that houses its roots, a frost proof vest if you will, that absorbs the worst of the damp that could otherwise threaten the root structure of the plant.

6. Babysitting

Those most tender among your plants should be either initially housed in pots, or at least relocated to them, in order to afford easy transport and indoor storage over the winter months. If a warm and weatherproof greenhouse is unavailable then take cuttings and provide a smaller environment in similarly controlled conditions until the weather becomes bearable.

7. Dry and Lowdown

You may also wish to invest in a sheet or two of glass or a cloche, preferably corrugated, in order to shelter from the wetter weather your low-growing alpines, and other planting that prefers free-draining conditions. To this end a layer of gravel or silt wouldn’t go amiss to ensure any penetrating water will be effectively drained, once again nullifying potential frost damage.

8. A Word on Snow

Snow can be both a blessing and a curse in the winter garden. Whilst an effective insulator against the cold and the wind, too much of the stuff can compromise the entire structure of even the largest plants. Good rules of thumb include regular shaking of tree branches and clearing of the greenhouse roof, the one will risk snapped limbs while the other negates the whole purpose of having a greenhouse by blocking out the sun. Rule one also applies to the smaller cousins as fern branches will become deformed if bowed by the weight of the snow. It’s also important to remember that lawns are susceptible to permanent scarring if walked upon during snowy days, not to mention fungal infection.

9. The Leaves of Autumn

A topic hotly debated in horticulture is what to do with the mass of leaves that will collect on the average garden throughout autumn. For safety reasons, they should definitely be removed from walking surfaces, however what of those on the grass? The immediate risk is that they’ll smother whatever turf they land on, but simultaneously it seems a laborious task to collect them all. A friend once suggested that you simply run the mower over them whilst on the grass and now finally I get a chance to thank them. This deteriorates the leaves enough to allow sunlight and moisture in and also gives them a head start into mulching, a healthy process for the lawn itself.

10. Avoidances

The key point here is to avoid plastic where possible, particularly in the insulation process as this will inhibit the plants ability to breathe. Insulators like bubble wrap will also contain any moisture that manages to penetrate thus exacerbating any rot problems to which the plant may be susceptible. Also avoid, if possible, feeding nitrogen based fertiliser too late in the season as this will encouraged auxiliary leafy growth whose tender stems will also be susceptible to frost damage.

So, get everything warmly tucked away and then get yourself inside to enjoy the fire and a steaming cup of gin!

By Josh Ellison

The gardener at Christmas is a hectic creature, trying to put the beds to bed so to speak before the coming of the winter cold, raising what remains of a vegetable patch from the ground and most of all getting the greenhouse set up - a half, or  a three hour job depending if they’ve got a helping hand. So naturally any aid that can be lent is as welcome to them as to anybody else in this busy, busy season.

Perhaps the most thoughtful way to do this is by incorporating it into whatever you’re gifting them this year, so here are five suggestions:

Weeder's Digest tea mug

Everyone likes a hot drink while they work and cup of tea in the garden is as much appreciated as the coffee-matic at the office. Thus Alan Titchmarsh has released a clever little receptacle complete with a lid that as he says ‘Will keep the heat in and the bugs and soil out!’ Thus negating the three common threats to a good cup of chai where outdoor work is considered, and all for under £10.

Welly Warmers

This gardener’s take on the Christmas stocking makes a fantastically practical alternative to your average winter socks, available in various sizes and colours, and when they’re not in use they can be hung decoratively over a fire place to dry.

Greenhouse Caddy

Every gardener worth their salt has that drawer, a box or other container holding every bit of loose twine, cane and wire they never made use of, but might. Similarly to the stereotypical “man’s drawer” home of orphaned keys, dead batteries and foreign currency, you can never be sure when all this detritus will reveal its purpose but can never convince yourself it just won’t. Thus the Greenhouse Caddy provides a compact and mobile alternative to a cluttered kitchen drawer, with divided compartments for the loose ends you’ve collected over the years, you can upgrade from a cluttered drawer to a cluttered tool box. At least it needn’t stay in the house.

Animal Watering cans

Personalise your garden armoury with these sheet iron creations ranging in every wild shape from piglet or elephant to duckling. If you’re  on a budget this year then I’d suggest the baby chick can as both the cheapest and most compact option.

Tool Racks

A good tool rack is an indispensable addition to any garden shed, it saves time and space by organising your larger equipment whilst providing a point of sanity in what would otherwise be a chaotic space.

The tool rack, watering cans and mug can all be found at Greenfingers.com, but best to check it out sooner rather than later as they’re having a Winter season sale. The stockings and caddy can be found at a variety of retailers.

By Josh Ellison

The unusual weather we’ve had in this past year has been a recurring topic in these articles and it now rears its head again, as reports come in of winter strawberries and daffodils. Indeed, across the country farmers and gardeners alike are reporting out of season blooming and fruiting and attributing it to the incredibly mild autumn we’ve had this year.

In Altrincham, just south of greater Manchester, Damian Harris, head gardener on the Dunham Massey estate, is reporting the first signs of spring blossom in a full host of daffodils that materialised throughout the grounds. Normally this genus would be taken as a visual alarm clock of the dawn of spring, however they are now appearing two months early, due to the specific conditions imposed by the second warmest autumn in over a century. Daffodils are not the only out of place sighting here either, Harris has also states that Azaleas and Rhododendrons have been sighted in the grounds, which ordinarily would not be expected to appear until late May to early June. It is expected that once the winter weather sets in later this month these species will simply hibernate until the warm weather returns in the spring.

In our own garden here in Kent, Clematis, perennial Geraniums and Nasturtiums are still in bloom and at Berkeley Castle in Gloucestershire, the slightly more uncommon Giant Tree Dahlia, Dahlia imperialis, is in flower, as it is in many parts of the country, which is unusual. Normally this plant is grown for its dramatic foliage and size only, however, this year the flowers have been spared the early trial by frost that usually prohibits them from blooming.

RHS Principal Horticultural Advisor Leigh Hunt has also had reports of magnolias in flower during autumn and apple trees producing a second flush of blossom.

In Bishop Stortford, Hertfordshire fruit farmer John Lukies has announced a spate of December strawberries and raspberries coming to fruition, again because of this year’s fair autumn and also partly because of the extremely wet summer that preceded it. While the fruit is not copious enough to be financially beneficial, no one can complain of a few extra raspberries to eat!

Of course, on the other side of the coin and despite this damp summer, the very dry autumn and winter thus far has meant that England is down to its lowest rainfall average in forty years, falling at just below 18 inches, as opposed to the usual 25. The concern here, therefore, stems from the low reservoirs that agriculturalists like Lukies depend on to water their crops, and how they will be affected if this relative drought does not let up.

By Josh Ellison

A recurring nuisance to gardeners across Britain has been the introduction of a fairly persistent little weed known as Japanese Knotweed. Originally introduced by the Victorians as an ornamental garden perennial, this invasive plant broke into the news recently for completely undermining the structural stability of one Hertfordshire couple’s home, along with its retail value. 

Matthew Jones and Sue Banks were told that, after a particularly virulent specimen of Fallopia Japonica had burrowed through the concrete of their living room wall, the financial worth of their property had fallen by a quarter of a million pounds.

 The Environment Agency recognises Fallopia Japonica as a national threat to garden welfare, as it rivals bamboo in its growth rate, and most rabbit warrens in its ability to procreate! The species can increase in length by over 10 cm a day and, as the Hertfordshire case demonstrates, is not discouraged in the least by hardened materials such as paving, brickwork or even solid concrete.

In 2009 a government study revealed a potential cure to the weed, a jumping louse of similar origins to the weed itself, known as Aphalara Itadori, which was believed would see the decline of the plant with a mass devouring of its sap. This study aptly referred to the Knotweed as a real life equivalent of a Triffid and, as such, a menace to horticultural society - able to grow up to 7 metres horizontally and 5 metres underground. It is completely regenerative from any particle exceeding the dimensions of a drawing pin and capable of drowning smaller flowers and native species in its foliage. However, the government body was understandably reserved about releasing Britain’s first deliberate biological control, particularly in the wake of the North Australian Cane Toad disaster. Questions were raised as to how our environment might sustain the jumping lice, were they successful in wiping out Knotweed.

Fast forward to today and, while the louse is yet to be released on a mass scale, there are still a variety of different techniques that the environment agency recommends should you notice your own garden falling prey. Of course the first step is decisively identifying the menace in time to combat it - first and foremost the rate of expansion will be unlike most anything else you’ve come across, marching forward like a lush green platoon it will conquer new ground daily. 

The foliage itself is shovel shaped and will be supported on a cane similar to bamboo. Finally, you have the white flowers produced September – October and the trademark colourful autumn foliage.

However, patience must be exhibited when the specimen is discovered as the agency insists that successful termination of the plant will derive from correct timing, regardless of technique. Their website suggests action in late summer when the underground rhizomes are far more susceptible to herbicides and physical damage. However, when it comes to cutting, it important to remember the durability of the plant and the risk that dispersing even the smallest clipping can pose. 

Studies have shown that a 1cm section of rhizome can produce a new plant in 10 days, and that rhizome segments can remain dormant in soil for twenty years before producing new plants, so extreme care must be exercised when trying to eradicate it. As such, it is necessary to gain the agency’s permission before undertaking knotweed control, so that they might outline the proper method for disposing of the cuttings produced. The number of specialised domestic facilities in existence are a tribute to the tenacity of the species and thus how seriously its disposal must be taken.  

As a householder you are responsible for the control of Knotweed as, although it is not an offence to have it on your land, to allow it to spread to a neighbouring property could constitute a ‘private nuisance’ under common law. Also, to cause it to spread through improper removal or disposal is illegal. If you are in any doubt, it would be best to contact the agency, or your local authority for advice on control or disposal.

By Josh Ellison

The gardening headlines this week have been plastered with the threat of two new diseases that could potentially devastate Europe’s indigenous tree population.

In southern France, along the famous Canal du Midi, a plan has been in motion since last winter that will see the felling and destruction of 42,000 plane trees in the region. This is due to the arrival of Ceratocystis platani, a disease that, since the 1970’s, has been blitzing across Europe, originating in Italy. It is believed the blight, endemic to North America, was brought across the ocean by U.S. soldiers in World War Two. While the Midi, perhaps due to its recently endowed world heritage title, is certainly the most noticeable among the losses, the disease has also become prevalent in Switzerland, Germany and Greece, where it now threatens a vast percentage of the original Plane population.

The Canal, a world renowned tourist attraction, was originally designed as an economic conduit that allowed the merchants of old to bypass the treacherous Atlantic Ocean en route to the Mediterranean Sea. However, in a somewhat ironic twist, the original species of Mississippi Plane that has successfully adapted to this affliction is being imported in great numbers in order to replace one of the Canal’s main attractions. Unfortunately, while Toulouse can cater to their favoured humid environment, it is unclear whether this species will be viable to supplement the depletion that chillier areas of the continent have suffered.

The threat does not stop in Toulouse however - given the virility of the affliction, tree pathologist Steve Woodward (University of Aberdeen) agrees that it poses a grave threat to the urban based Planes of cities like Paris and London. It is the Plane that so commonly and attractively lines our city streets.

“We are talking about a massive disaster here if it continues to spread,” he says.

The disease is a fungal infection that, once exposed to the roots of the organism, will completely overrun it within 3-5 years, and due to the damage this causes to the plants' integrity, it is imperative that it be removed, lest it should fall and endanger passers-by in doing so. The disease is characterised by cankerous sores appearing on the inner bark of the tree, as well as an accelerated decline in both the quality and density of the plants foliage. No wound to the outer bark is too great or small to escape it and contact equals instant infection.

In addition to this threat from abroad, a new menace has been identified in rural Devon as a potential watershed moment for the diminishment of our domestic Yews and Lawson Cypresses in the form of Phytophtora lateralis. Identifiable by the patchy colouring of its trunk, a tree will also often exhibit slightly lighter foliage in places followed by out of season autumn colours. The tree will succumb soon after as this foliage deterioration signals that the tree has become totally infected. 

While certain soil drenches can be utilised in the earlier stages of the disease, these will likely prove ineffective once it has advanced past the root structure; aside from which, use of these drenches on a mass scale would likely cause further environmental concerns and prove something of a pyrrhic victory.

Due to this increasing encroachment of pests and diseases, a body has been established to specifically target incoming detriments to our native plant life. This group, known as the Tree Health and Plant Biosecurity Action Plan, has been allocated seven million pounds (£7m) with which, over the next three years, they will attempt to exert a tighter control on the intrusion of foreign fungi and pathogens that threaten the endemic population.

"If we don't act now, we could end up with a similar situation to the 1970s when more than 30 million trees in the UK died [as a result of] Dutch elm disease."  - says Environment Secretary Caroline Spelman.

The key responsibilities of the plan will include the monitoring of exotic plants allowed to cross British borders, as well as increasing the knowledge and awareness of currently existing domestic threats.

By Josh Ellison

It is often disputed whether an insect population as a general concept is beneficial or detrimental to the gardener, however this cannot be decided with a simple black/white frame of mind. Like their micro equivalent bacteria, there are types and species of creepy crawlies that can be either devastating to or redemptive of any green space.

All the species mentioned here will be recognisable and that's chiefly why they've been selected. Their banality, particularly in the case of those detrimental species, is what often disguises them as a neutral force in the garden.

Friends:

1. Ladybirds

Probably the most immediately recognisable on our list is the Ladybird, whose name derives from the moniker given to Mary of Nazareth. Her personage was often depicted draped in a red spotted cloak, whose seven blemishes symbolised her corresponding joys and sorrows. These gorgeous insects act as the perfect counter-measure against one of the villains on our list, Aphids, who form a large part of the beetle’s diet. In the pupal stage alone it is not uncommon for a ladybird to consume upwards of four hundred of these plant lice and over five thousand in an average life cycle. However, there are certain procedures to attend to if you are to successfully attract this species to your garden. First of all your choice of pesticides can have an adverse effect on their propagation, so be careful what you use. Also, an artificial supplement known as ‘wheast’, a combination of whey and yeast can be applied to your space to nourish growing larvae. You can make your own version by mixing 1 part sugar to 1 part yeast in water to make a paste, which can then be painted onto stakes among your planting. Or you can make a looser mixture and simply spray it onto plants. Plants such as Achillea(Yarrow) and Daffodils will also provide enticing pollen.

2. Earthworms

Charles Darwin once of spoke of the Earthworm as being of the most significant organisms in the history of the world, describing it as nature's version of the soil plough, while immeasurably older and more efficient. Never will you find a greater aid to the quality of your soil than this fisherman's aid. The Earthworm operates on a symbiotic basis with its environment i.e. the greater the quality of the soil and the better tended it is, the greater the population of worms, and in turn the greater the quality will remain. Thus it is important to serve these creatures appetites as a means of satisfying your gardens. First of all we must understand how the Earthworm survives. Its respiration is conducted entirely through its skin, rather than through lungs like us humans and to thrive they need, similarly to us, moisture and oxygen, therefore a well-drained, moist soil which is turned regularly will guarantee a healthy population. Also, while composting and mulching may seem obvious tricks for the benefit the of the plants themselves, the tunnels an Earthworm creates will provide greater pockets of oxygen and thus a more efficient means by which bacteria can break down this organic material.

3. Butterflies

Butterflies are an excellent vector of pollination, similar to their striped friends, the bees. In a previous article we outlined how important it was to aid the continued growth of our native butterfly species due to the adverse conditions they'd been faced with in the past summer. However it is not only flower propagation that makes this insect important - over one third of the world's food supply is pollinated by natural vectors. Also the butterfly provides a source of food for numerous bird species that, along with the aesthetic of the insect itself, add exciting colour and movement to your green space.

4. Bees

Einstein is quoted as saying that “If the bee disappears from the surface of the earth, man would have no more than four years to live.” And this is due to their critical role as the primary pollinator on our planet. From the largest crops to the smallest bloom, no other insect can lay claim to such widespread or efficient propagation. As such, there is no doubt that a population already resides in your garden, however there are measures that can be taken to ensure, in their state of decline, that this presence continues. Aside from a healthy supply of pollen rich plants, bees require a local water source to multiply, preferable one placed away from sources of intrusive noise like lawnmowers. A small pond or fountain amid the more remote areas of your garden would suit this role perfectly.

5. Spiders

For a long time this creepy crawly has been on the receiving end of much stigma due to its presentation on the silver screens of yester-year. However, it is the very aspect that sealed this creature as a menace, that also confirms it as one of the greatest assistants a gardener could employ. The same predatory instinct that saw so many grind-house heroes laid low, can be put to work on the winged afflictions of your leaves and petals, consuming, as it does, many of our garden pests. Unfortunately, arachnids are primarily attracted to dry, tranquil places and so an English garden cannot hope to yield a huge amount! Hopefully their mention here will help dispel the myths of fear and aversion that surround them, and pay the dues that spiders really deserve.

Foes:

6. Slugs

One of the most common pests in any English garden, these slimy critters are known for the destruction they cause to any foliage they can reach. However, aside from expensive artificial aids, there are other methods of repulsing them. The most important thing you can do is use nature against itself i.e. in the approaching winter months it’s important to rake over your top soil, thus exposing larvae and egg clusters to the threat of frost. Keeping the garden clear of fallen leaves and plant matter also reduces places for slugs to hide. 

Slugs also have many natural predators, foremost of which is the Hedgehog. Shy creatures by nature, the best way to attract them initially is a healthy portion of dog food but to make them stick around you'll have to invest in a habitat that suits them. To this end we recommend a waterproof box, insulated with hay and camouflaged by leaves which if successful will provide you not only an effective solution to your arthropods but a cute addition to the family. If hedgehogs are out of the question then another effective predator is the group known as Rove Beetles, which includes the most commonly known ‘Devil’s Coach Horse Beetle’. They can be catered for with a series of perspex lined, pebble filled trenches into which the slugs will become trapped for the beetles lunch. A hedgehog house should be constructed to dimensions of eighteen inches length, twelve depth and six width while beetle trenches should be about half those measurements.

7. Aphids

Aphids aka Greenfly or Blackfly, are a species of parasitic insect that are notorious for the destruction of foliage and flower alike. They have been mentioned already as one of the Ladybirds primary food sources, however there are a number of other species that will incorporate this pest into their diet if properly encouraged. 

The most foolproof way to ensure these predators presence is through the liberal planting of nettles, which, when sited next to those flowers worst afflicted, will attract a local population of nettle Aphids. As their name suggests, they will only attack the nettle itself while attracting plenty of less discriminate insects to regulate theirs and their counterparts’ population. We would highly recommend this method over the use of pesticides or water-borne protection as one annoying habit of an Aphid afflicted leaf is to curl inward, thus protecting the insect from outward dusting of insecticides.

8. Grasshopper

The trick with Grasshopper control is in early intervention - by catching the infestation early you halt the population growth before it become unmanageable. 

They are a particular nuisance to vegetable crops, mostly targeting baby carrots, onions and lettuce. One method involves something of a pyrrhic victory by way of providing a strip of lush grass to divert the hopper from the rest of the garden, this will also localise the entire population making them an easy target for predatory birds and insects. However as stated earlier, it is important to undertake these counter-measures as soon as possible because, once the hopper has a foothold, then no method will be effective except to wait for the cold season that wipes them out annually.

9. Caterpillars

A Caterpillar infestation is a result of butterflies laying eggs on the leaves of the afflicted plant. A non-chemical means of prevention is to use a horticultural fleece to cover the plants and halt butterflies' access to them. Unfortunately, they have a long laying season that can last from early spring to autumn and the indiscriminate fleeces will also prevent other beneficiary species from reaching the plant.

 Another method is to move the afflicted plant to an enclosed site such as a greenhouse and then to flood the space with Trichogramma brassicae, a species of wasp that targets caterpillar eggs. If that is not possible, you can just use the old-fashioned method of picking them off the plants manually!

10. Viburnum Beetle

This little monster has recently topped the RHS most wanted list in terms of garden pests, partly due to its destructive capacity, but mostly due to its lack of treatment protocol. The majority of the defoliation this creature causes is during the larvae stage wherein the hatchlings are far too numerous to effectively clear by hand, thus chemical methods are the only viable ones. 

Once inspecting infected Viburnum for signs of the larvae, spray the plant with deltamethrin or cyhalothrin. This treatment is best utilised in the mid spring months when the larvae do the majority of their damage. There are organic options, however these have proved virtually ineffective against matured beetles.

And so as our roster of friends and foes draws to a close, remember the tips given here on avoiding the latter and do your best next year to attract the former. The one comfort of the oncoming cold weather is that caterpillars and slugs are far more susceptible to it than we are!

By Josh Ellison

A while ago we released an article on the increasing encroachment of urbanisation on personal green spaces, stating some means by which a lack of space can become an opportunity, rather than a hinderance to creativity.

This week we want to follow that up with a selection of wall based planting schemes so that, although our spaces might be small, we can make the most of all the surfaces, not least the verticals.

Hence, for your consideration you'll find below a selection of just a few of our favourite climbing plants, selected based on their hardiness and listed according to the position they thrive in.

Shady Places:

1. Hydrangea petiolaris

This deciduous climber is native to the rural areas of Japan and the Korean peninsula and it is ideally suited for the north western quadrant of the garden, as it thrives in morning sun and afternoon shade. In the summertime it will reward diligence with fertile and numerous white, lace-cap blooms that turn coppery and stay on the plant well into winter. You can expect it to reach heights of 15 metres, however it is recommended that you aid its growth with garden ties, as this species suffers from quite weak rootlets. For this reason trellis may be needed if the wall itself is barren of holds for the plant to attach. 

2. Pyracantha – 

‘The Firethorn’, as it is commonly known, is actually a vertical shrub and has long been employed as means of bordering a garden due to it's dense foliage and defensive thorns, however as a vertical addition it also provides an array of colour and interest to a garden. For example, once their white blooms have shed they will bear orange, red and yellow berries both admired as an autumn decoration and loved by the birds. 

3. Clematis montana - 

Here is a species most will be familiar with, the beautiful Clematis flower is all but an institution among Britain's green-fingered, though a fragile one as the stems can be quite brittle, so care is needed when training it in. This climber will flower profusely with pink or white flowers in spring and again later in the year, albeit more sparsely. In the lull period it will provide attractive emerald, and sometimes purple tinted, foliage. 

Sunny Spots:

1. Roses - 

Perhaps the most famous of flowering plants, this perennial climber will thrive in full sun and will reward the gardener with large, colourful and often very fragrant flowers. It is important in very sunny conditions to ensure the plant is well watered and the soil rich, artificially enhanced if necessary with the aid of compost or well-rotted manure. Providing the right conditions will keep the plant healthy and reduce the risk of disease.

2. Campsis – 

‘The Trumpet Vine’ comes in two varieties, the south east American radicans and the Chinese grandiflora, either will thrive in a British garden when afforded enough sunlight. Their most attractive feature is the brightly coloured, orange or yellow flowers for whose shape they are named, they are also extremely sought after by bird species and will aid the wildlife population of your space.

3. Trachelospermum jasminoides – 

The ‘Evergreen Jasmine’ makes a good alternative to regular Jasmine, which can look a bit untidy in the winter months. This one has shiny dark green foliage and the same, highly scented, starry, white flowers all summer long.

Exposed Positions:

1. Wisteria - 

A member of the pea family, this hardy climber will attach to any support you can provide and is popular in rooftop gardening for it's durability. It will bear fragrant, lilac, purple or white flowers that form with an appearance much like hanging grapes and, once established, will continue to do so for many years. Best in a west-facing position.

2. Parthenocissus – 

‘Virginia Creeper’ - Similarly to the Trumpet Lily, this genus is very popular among birds and will attract them to any garden that houses it. It is grown mainly for it’s spectacular rich autumn colours and, due to it's prevalent nature, it will quickly cover unsightly fences and other artificial structures you may wish to conceal. However, just watch it doesn’t get into your gutters and under roof tiles!

3. Hedera – Ivy – 

For hardiness and an ability to deal with almost all situations, you can’t really beat good old ivy. Available in a variety of leaf sizes and colours, including some very attractive variegated types, like the Virginia Creeper, it will quickly cover any unattractive boundaries or buildings. However, also like the Virginia Creeper, it climbs by clinging on with tiny suckers, so can cause damage to walls and roofs if not kept in check.

There you have it - hopefully those whose gardens have been confined by the rapid urbanisation of recent years will find something here to help maintain the illusion, if not necessarily the reality of a much larger space.  

By Josh Ellison

You would think that following such a miserable bout of summer, what with all the rain we've been having, that drought would be the least of our problems - and then we have a week like last week! 

However, news has been circulating that certain areas of Britain, particularly Lincolnshire and East Anglia, are suffering from low ground water levels. Despite the buckets that fell during June and July, dozens of farmers are still unable to draw from their local water sources because the majority of that bad weather was soaked up by late sprouting flora that suffered so much detriment in early spring - an especially chilly one for our spot in the hemisphere.

As such, we felt it prudent to prepare you for future deficits with a list of drought tolerant plants and artificial countermeasures you can take to prevent your garden from suffering a similar fate.

Floral and Hardy’s Top Five Drought Tolerant Plants

1. Abelia grandiflora – a large, easy-to-look-after, semi-evergreen shrub - properly tended it can reach heights of 1.8 metres and will bear glossy, deep green leaves and masses of fragrant, pale pink-flushed white bell flowers all summer long.

2. Fatsia japonica keeps appearing in this editorial, not wholly because of its aesthetic appeal, it is also one of the most durable evergreen species you can cultivate here in England. It is possessed of eight-lobed leaf formations and large, creamy-white, candlebra-like blooms between autumn and winter, followed by plum coloured berries in late winter.

3. Common Lavender actually flourishes in dry environments and so is ideally suited to this short list. With its scented purple, pink or white flowers and evergreen foliage, it’s an essential in any cottage garden scheme. Definitely avoid the use of this in humid environments, as this species is prone to root rot in the damp, most fertilisers should be avoided also. In fact the only maintenance really required is good air circulation, a sand based soil and a light trim over after flowering to keep its shape.

4. Euphorbia is a striking perennial species with a shrubby form, evergreen glaucous foliage and conspicuous sulphur yellow bracts in spring. Special care should be taken though when working around the plant to avoid their poisonous and caustic sap.

5. Echinops, otherwise known as Globe Thistle, due to its spherical purple-blue flower heads and thistle-like foliage, is a species native to Africa's tropical regions and parts of central Asia particularly the Indian subcontinent. As such, their species has had the time and experience to negotiate extreme weather conditions such as drought and would therefore make a colourful and appropriate addition to your drought-proof garden.

Other ways of dealing with drought conditions:

Irrigation systems

• First of all we have the most common irrigation system which is known as localised irrigation, this refers to a matrix of piping that then employs sprinkler heads to control aerial dispersal of the water over the garden. The advantages of this include its easy use, self management and the option of having self-timed systems. Of course this system is also fairly inefficient due to the evaporating effect that the dispersed water will undergo, particularly difficult in time of low water supplies. Even in regular conditions the disadvantage becomes a cost on your own water bill.

• Next we have drip or trickle irrigation, while a slower means of water delivery, it is far more efficient. Not to mention when combined with horticultural membrane and a mulch of some kind mulch it is an excellent means of minimizing that which is lost to evaporation, your system could also be fitted to deliver fertilizer to the garden.

Water butts

Water butts are another effective method of maintaining healthy moisture levels and will not cost you nearly as much as an irrigation system. It will collect the surplus rain water from your gutters and store it indefinitely, to provide an emergency source of fluid in times of hardship. Unfortunately, although the standard types will win no beauty prizes for your garden, they can easily be concealed behind a tall shrub and under our current circumstances much surely be worth the minor aesthetic cost. Fortunately, if the aesthetic of your garden does not allow for such plastic monstrosities then you'll be able to find a host of different decorative designs available, from large ‘terracotta’ urns to traditional oak barrels, whichever suits your tastes.

Membranes

The selection of the right membrane will be critical to your moisture conservation, not to mention the overall health and aesthetic quality of your garden. You may be surprised how many jobs an effective membrane and mulch can perform for you.

• It is recommended that if planning to use a plastic layer that you avoid transparent materials, the reason for this is that unlike their black or green counterparts their transparency allows sunlight to penetrate and therefore encourages weed growth - effectively shooting itself in the foot! It is essential, however, that this material be appropriately punctured to suit the level of moisture in your soil. It may not allow water to escape through evaporation however, the flip side of that coin is that it will hinder the drainage of waterlogged soil. Also, if exposed to sunlight this material will break down quickly and thus it is advisable to use a hybrid mulch, with a base layer of black plastic protected by a secondary layer of bark or soil thus reducing heat absorption and subsequent decay.

• If however you're veering towards using a cloth based alternative, or horticultural membrane, then you should consider the following, while this material will provide better water dispersal and ventilation it will also be vulnerable to evaporation. Also, its protection against weed extends only as far as its fastenings, without proper attachment to the ground this material will fast be outmatched by perennial weeds, so always overlap and peg down.

Mulches

The two basic types are organic and artificial each with its own pros and cons. To start, let us discuss the most moisture retaining organic materials:

• Ornamental bark – by far the most natural looking mulch, easily obtainable from your garden centre.

• Wood chip, while not especially porous, provide excellent weed control and is an extremely attractive base layer, however as they decompose they will sap nitrogen from the soil which will need to be supplemented with outside fertilizer.

• Pine needles are effective as porous material and thus will welcome initial rainfall and allow it to penetrate the ground easily, but they can make soil quite acidic – fine if you want to grow acid loving plants such as Rhododendrons and Azaleas!

• Pecan shells are something of a speciality as they tend to be restricted to areas of pecan production, however if available they should definitely be considered as they provide a lovely dark brown mulch and excellent water retention over a long time period.

Artificial mulches:

• Slate chippings - unlike other stone mulches, they're acidity levels are inert and thus they will not manipulate the pH level of the local soil

• Gravels or stone – available in a wide range of colours and sizes, however tend to grow very hot during the summer months, those most prone to drought, and therefore can exacerbate evaporation.

• Tumbled crushed glass - like slate chippings is also a recycled material and comes in many vibrant colours.

So if your garden seems to be getting drier by the year, don’t fret, follow some of the advice above and England’s green and pleasant land can easily be preserved.

By Josh Ellison

Nature, and more specifically its minutiae, comprises probably the oldest topic of recorded artwork - dating from the documentation of prehistoric animal and tree life in the cave scrawls of our ancestors, to Van Gogh’s Irises, arguably the most lucrative bouquet in history.

This week I'll be reviewing some of the most famous flowers of the art world and the inspiration behind their conception or rather, perception, through the eyes of the artist.

Perhaps the most famous French artist in matters of natural beauty is Claude Monet (1840-1926), an impressionist painter famous for favouring the plein-air technique of rendering a work outdoors. The term impressionism was coined from one of his more prodigal works Impression, Sunrise. Aside from his obvious contributions to the philosophies behind the artistic movement, Monet was also responsible for a myriad of some of the most famous nature based paintings in a series titled simply Water Lilies. His realistic rendering of reflection and shadow concerning both the fluidity of water and the stasis of the lilies themselves, lent new credibility to the out of fashion pastoral themes he was addressing.

Painted shortly before his death in 1890, Van Gogh's Sunflowers were to become the alter ego to the artist as a portrait painter. Lauded as his microcosmic edition of life and death, the series documents all stages of a sunflower’s life using the saturation of colour, and its absence, simultaneously to symbolise both the vivacity of youth and its stark briefness.

Incidentally part of this series is also one of the most expensive ever sold, fetching $39,000,000 at a London auction in 1987.

However this price tag is dwarfed by the next entry on our list, also a Van Gogh and previously mentioned, the Irises were dubbed by Van Gogh as “the lightening rod to my illness”. This is widely considered a reference to the lack of realism attributed to the painting’s use of light and colour that does not represent the angles it evokes, nor the perspective in terms of fore, and background. Dated prior to Van Gogh’s asylum stays due to anxiety, critics say the painting is absent of any tension and rather it is the unnatural evocation of perspective that strikes the viewer. This Dutch contribution, after inflation, broke the hundred million mark making it by far the most lucrative set of petals in history.

Next we have a somewhat more contemporary entrant. Georgia O Keeffe was a twentieth century artist partly known for her floral work. Beginning her education at the Chicago School of Art in 1905, she did not come to prominence until 1912 following her brief stint as an art teacher in Texas. It is now safe to assume that much of her inspiration was drawn from her primary work locations in New Mexico where she spent a part of every year of her adult life. Her movement was known as imitative realism and she was to become one of the century’s most famous American painters. She spoke of why she painted flowers; "Nobody sees a flower - really - it is so small - we haven't time - and to see takes time, like to have a friend takes time...So I said to myself - I'll paint what I see - what the flower is to me, but I'll paint it big and they will be surprised into taking time to look at it - I will make even busy New Yorkers take time to see what I see of flowers."

Hans Memling, by contrast, is a fifteenth century artist whose importance arises from his predating the renaissance period, before which there was heavy focus on religious exaltation within art. Despite the relatively neutral form of the piece dubbed Flowers, critics still insist on its highly religious connotations. This could be attributed to the reverse side of the painting that presented a praying man as its subject, but while no literal connection can be drawn between the two, the themes of the latter, as well as its context, are probably what caused religious underpinning to be applied to Memling’s seemingly neutral vase of flowers. While not a genre he explored in great depth, this painting remains one of the most senior examples of what was then described as hyper real rendering. A particularly applicable title, post David Hockney, as it was his research that revealed Memling’s use of an optical projector that threw the image onto his wood canvas allowing him to then trace over it with oils.

I hope that you found my list of flowers in art informative or at least encouraging, as to the inspirational potential of what are essentially common flowers. And now - to your own canvas that awaits a gentle hand to render meaning and beauty.

By Josh Ellison

On the news recently it was reported that a very short sighted council had planted a bed of ‘Monkshood’ in a town in the Lake District. Fair enough they're a beautiful flower, however to plant them in such close proximity to a children's area indicates a gross lack of research, as these are one of the most toxic genus' that you can cultivate on our island. It occurred to me then that, perhaps like the noir heroines of old, its beauty had made it all the more deadly by ensnaring said gardeners eye in the first place and leaving them blind to the threat it posed. 

Aconitum, as is the proper name, is a particularly hostile breed of buttercup and its toxicity is used notoriously by certain Amazonian tribes to tip their arrows when hunting. A dose as small as 40ml of its active component can induce death within 4-6 hours! Although a sufficient dosage can cause death instantaneously, symptoms of Aconitum poisoning may include headaches, dizziness, respiratory problems and, in extreme cases, loss of motor functions. Maybe knowing some of its other handles such as Wolfsbane or Devil’s Helmet would have suggested this and prevented the mistake? Due to this apparent seduction by its blue bells, I've compiled a list of other femme fatales - plants beautiful and deadly that may have charmed their way into your beds with malign intentions! 

Belladonna, roughly translating to ‘beautiful woman’, and commonly referred to as Deadly Nightshade, epitomises the vein of horticulture I'm trying to address, growing wild all over the British isles and parts of Africa, Asia and Europe. The snare of this species is its attractive and sweet tasting berries, however, so potent is its toxin that a child could cradle a deadly dose of these 'death cherries' in a single closed palm. The plant is famous in history for having been utilised by the wives of Roman emperors to murder their imperial contemporaries. They are cultivated within the garden, albeit rarely, due to the aesthetic appeal of its purple flowers and black fruits. If you're concerned there has been contact with the Nightshade, look out for unexpected rashes, constipation and visual and auditory hallucinations as these are all common symptoms.

Among the more colourful killers lies the common Foxglove, a perennial member of the Digitalis variety, this beauty is often mistaken for Comfrey. Symphytum Officinale is regularly used for fermenting liquid tomato feed or brewing tea and it is in this usage that the Foxglove can claim its victims. However the steroidal glycocides that make this plant so dangerous are present in all its extremities - from root to flower – and, as such, children have often fallen prey by consuming the water in a specimen’s vase. Should this occur then give away signs will include vomiting, abdominal pain and late stage convulsions.

The Spurge Laurel, or Copse Laurel, is a species of Daphne - an evergreen with an appeal to gardeners for both its spring flowering and the fruit it bears in late summer. Unfortunately this plant can be rather tenacious once it has a foothold in your garden and must be handled with care during removal. This is due partly to the poisonous aspects of all its extremities and the sap it produces, which has been known to cause rashes and skin irritation almost immediately upon contact. Being a native of Britain, important factors in this species’ propagation stem from the qualities of its soil. If you avoid a limestone or alkaline rich base then the plant will be less encouraged to grow there. 

Conium, or Hemlock, is a member of the Apiaceae family, a genus type native to Europe and North Africa and potentially deadly to humans and their livestock. White flowering in appearance with finely defined triangular foliage, the threat of this femme fatal stems from her high alkaloid count particularly the presence of the substance Coniine. This compound is similar in chemical composition to the actively addictive element of cigarette tobacco, Nicotine, and kills using muscular and respiratory paralysis, eventually clotting the flow of oxygen to the brain.

Nerium Oleander is so widely distributed that its country of origin still remains a mystery today, in fact is one of the common poisonous plants currently in circulation and prolific use. Its merits are obvious, as it is a beautiful species, with leaves of green leather and whorls of rosy silken thimbles, in fact this species is so favoured that, like the Monkshood, it has been found calling children's play areas home. Oddly, there has emerged a substantial business based around the medicinal value of these plants, however one should ignore any promise of holistic remedies from the Oleander, as they contain no known beneficiary substances, in fact with the toxicity of this genus being what it is, they can pose quite a danger. Side effects of Oleander poisoning include diarrhoea, seizures and coma.

There are a host of separate connotations attached to the species Papaver somniferum. The common poppy is synonymous now with celebrated heroes, and one nefarious heroine respectively, for it is the poppy that supplies the world with the notorious substance opium. Aside from indirectly fuelling one of the planets most destructive addictions, the latex derived from this plant can also contribute to lung and heart collapse or even induce coma.

Next we have Angels Trumpet, which is exactly what you might hear were you to ingest this extremely toxic bloom. As the name suggests, these beautiful flowers hang daintily from the heavens and grow as low lying trees or large shrubs. The Brugmansia, to give it its proper name, can cause pupil irregularity or unusual dilation, should it make contact with the eyes and can also cause hallucinations. Fortunately, however, they propagate most successfully in tropical climes and require frost protection if they to thrive in a temperate zone like Britain.

Rhododendron is a seminal species of shrub, popular among many horticulturists for its ornamental uses and as such is often deployed in stately and domestic gardens. While not strictly lethal to human beings, this cultivar is reported to have some negative side effects even in more historical veins. While Pompey the Great a great Roman military leader, was marching his army of ten thousand they stopped and indulged in some of the honey from a local village, unfortunately this particular hamlet was surrounded by the eponymous flower and the bees that had rendered the aforementioned honey, had done so with toxic nectar. Historic records indicate a mildly laxative and hallucinogenic effect on the soldiers that in severe cases led to unfortunate casualties!

Autumn Crocus makes our final entry, as it fits the aspects of both allure, and lethality, most admirably. The only endangered species, it is highly unlikely that you'll ever unwittingly stumble across Colchicum Autumnale, however if you do, and you do eat it, then don't waste your energy trying to save yourself. Lie back and enjoy the sight the purple flutes that just buried you because, unlike any other femme fatal found here, the Autumn Crocus' toxin is related to the infamous arsenic and as such it has no cure! 

By Josh Ellison

In recent news, a gardener in Somerset has reported the death of a Great Tit at the hands, or rather stems, of one of the Nepenthes specimens he cultivates. Having been only the second recorded case of a bird falling prey to this species, Mr. Hewitt-Cooper was reportedly 'staggered' by the discovery.

Despite being static creatures, any good gardener knows that leafy carnivores exist in their thousands and this week I want to celebrate the ingenuity of some of natures most ravenous.

1. At the top of the list, the notorious Venus Fly-Trap inhabits areas of low nitrogen count, generally bogs and wet plains, but provides a shaft of colour wherever it grows. These specimens snare their prey using a clasping jaw comprised of heart shaped petals. The petals themselves are barbed with ultra sensitive hairs that work, similarly to many fast food establishments, on the twenty second rule. Once one is triggered by the weight of an insect, there is a twenty second delay and if further hairs are moved in this time then the trap closes. It is a diminutive species, despite its habits, that forms a rosette shape with a central flowering column. Their diet generally consists of small insects and arthropods though some larger species have been known to catch mice and even small birds in their grip!

2. Following this we have the Cobra Lily - rare in the field, though endemic to the marshes of northern California and Oregon. Like the majority of carnivorous species, the Cobra Lilly thrives in nitrogen depleted environments and this is because their unusual diet can supplement any lack of the element that might detriment their health. Similar to the Venus Fly-Trap, their fronds and leaves are highly adapted to their hunting method. Common to other 'pitcher plants' are its downward facing hairs that line the inside of the flower and hinder any animal’s attempts to escape once they've been enticed by the moist nectar pumped up from its roots. The plant is so sophisticated that by inverting its thin petals to shrink the exit, it also creates illusory sources of light through its translucent flesh, thus tiring any prey with false prospects of escape until it falls, exhausted, into the digestive bell. Until recently it was believed that the Cobra Lilly produced no digestive enzymes with which to ingest its food and rather depended on symbiotic bacteria, however studies have since suggested that it secretes at least one digestive enzyme.

3. Perhaps the rarest species in our line up is the Malayan Nepenthes A.K.A Monkey Cups, another genus of pitcher predator. However the really amazing feature of this plant lies not in its ability to outwit or fell the more mobile inhabitants of the islands, but in how it can serve them. For example, the native Carpenter Ant of Borneo employs the upper hollows of its deadly pitcher as a nesting site. In return the crawlers remove the larger prey from its spout and thus aid its digestion by disposing of past prey’s remains. On a larger scale the top of its lid provides a sweet reward to invertebrates that perch there, particularly the local tree shrews. The shrews repay this favour by buffering the plants nitrogen intake with the subsequent excrement they produce.

4. Drosera are possessed of a very unusual trapping method. They use a system of tentacles protruding from their limbs similar to the Octopus, however they avoid the suction methods that these eight legged monsters are famous for. Instead, Sundews, as they are commonly known, present to nearby insects a series of long fronds barbed with these tentacles at the tip of which lies a sweet and sticky secretion by which the bug is first seduced and then ensnared. Immediately the fronds will curl back on themselves, trapping the insect between more and more barbs and thus more secretion. While the prey succumbs to exhaustion or drowns in the death syrup, further digestive enzymes are released to dissolve the remains and prepare them for nutrient harvest. Most common to Australia and New Zealand, these plants have refined their method to the point that they can tailor secretions to simultaneously attract prey, whilst sparing potential pollinators.

5.The Ultricularia or Bladderwort species is by the far most durable carnivore mentioned here. It can survive any habitat partially possessed of fresh water, only the poles and a smatter of oceanic island are unable to sustain it. The flower is the only part to ascend beyond its watery base, and due to its copious distribution this could include anything from a pond surface, to the dew of a rainforest canopy. Considered the most sophisticated trapping system in the plant kingdom, this is the only hunter on my list that uses a vacuum as its means of entrapment - a pair of thin but rigid membranes form the eponymous bladder of this genus. As water is pumped through the organism, a vacuum of pressure builds within the bladder leaving it primed to spring. What's so amazing about this is that it makes the Bladderwort the only organism in the world whose hunting method is entirely mechanical - it requires no reaction from the plant itself to catch prey.

6. The Trumpet Pitcher is an especially easy species to cultivate and like many of my list’s populace, it thrives in full sunlight and marshy conditions, however it will also survive in a conservatory or pot on a window sill, provided it is well watered. The benefits of this particular species are huge. For one thing it is very willing to hybridize with other genus types and so you can more or less tailor its colour, size and shape to your own palette. Furthermore, they provide an eco friendly means of pest disposal, possessed as they are of a healthy appetite for blue bottles, house flies and wasps. They are also loved for their spectacular flowering in early spring, which again can be tweaked by clever cross pollination or merely careful selection of your original specimen.

7. Finally we have Brocchinia Reducta, a native killer in South America. The structure of this plant comprises tightly overlapping leaves and each of these is layered with waxy scales, loosely attached to the flesh of the plant. The complexion of these shards causes a reflective effect of ultra violet light that, combined with the sweet nectar it produces, attracts insects. This tunnel of leaves stems from a cup that collects fluid forming the nectar, and the waxen scales tumble under the insects’ feet until they eventually succumb to the cup and drown.

So, there it is - you’ll either be revolted by these insect munching specimens or fascinated by them. Either way you cannot deny nature’s infinite ingenuity.

By Josh Ellison.

In honour of the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee, the Woodland Trust have recently announced their plans for a commemorative woodland. The initiative looks to purchase an introductory 500 acres for the new site from various private and public land owners. The idea could be regarded as a homage to the King George VI project that the Queen Mother spear-headed in 1936. As a long standing memorial to our monarch's time on the throne, the plan includes the planting of over six million new trees around the British Isles.

Aside from its obvious ecological benefits, the purpose is for organic legacy of beauty and longevity for the public to enjoy and for time to endure. The 200 hectare project is estimated to cost approximately £5m and includes land costs, planting and maintenance and also making the forests fit for the public with the addition of sign posting and footpaths. However the extent of public involvement doesn't halt at simple spectatorship - the commission also wish to snap up another 59 sites for forestation that would complement and accentuate the much larger, starring woodland.

These tertiary sites would size around 60 acres each, bringing the total scale of the project to over 4000 acres of British countryside, with the planting beginning in November of this year.

A smaller planting project has also been initiated, this on a much more intimate scale, as local communities have been awarded tree planting packs with which to devise their own commemorative woodland to help the project meet its target of 6 million trees. In light of this, the forestry commission have organised a free give away of 'planting packs' to schools and communities, who can apply through their website. 

They encourage your planting group to consult the local community and land owners for their blessing and also to involve as many people as possible to ensure its success. There are 1,000 packs to be had and they will be dispensed in two types, one containing 105 saplings and the other 420 saplings each, ranging between 20cm and 40cm. Each pack will also contain a Royal Oak sapling groomed from a seed endemic to the royal gardens, in tribute to the genesis of the project. The packs containing the larger number of saplings will also include canes and protective spirals in order to ensure their security through adolescence. The species included in each pack have been selected based on four distinct themes and you can choose which theme you will plant in your application. 

The ‘Wildlife’ pack contains blackthorn, hawthorn, hazel, birch, rowan and oak. 

The ‘Year Round’ pack focuses on greater longevity with the addition of dogwood and cherry. 

The ‘Woodfuel’ pack introduces ash and hornbeam. 

Finally the ‘Wildharvest’ pack makes the fruity contribution of elder, crab apple and dog rose.

Although, if you want your community to be a part of this great undertaking, then you had best apply to the Woodland Trust promptly as the deadline for application is the 25th of September.

Following her grandmother, the Queen Mother’s example, Princess Anne will serve as acting patron for the project that is set to spark all Britons’ horticultural interest.

By Josh Ellison

Are you sick of cold, rainy days in this so-called August weather? Is it dampening your spirits and killing the social calendar? Is it threatening your species? 

If the answer to the last question is yes, then you are one of the butterflies that feature in this article, if not then you're like me - just another malcontent, fed up with our British weather.

Butterflies are one of the few purely decorative insects you can attract and their variety of colour is astonishing, making them a welcome addition to any garden. But, due to last year’s wet summer and the continuing trend this year, Britain has seen a severe decline in several species of butterfly. As most of us know, water and wings don't mix, particularly where insects are concerned. A heavy rainstorm is comparable to a blitzkrieg from a butterfly’s perspective and all this wet weather has meant they've been less actively pollinating and breeding.

As such, last week’s article on pond cultivation comes closer to the fore, due to its role as an insect habitat. The obvious plus is the water source it provides, however, butterflies require peace to flourish, so I'd also suggest a wild patch in your garden that will remain undisturbed by usual garden maintenance and thus provide them with a breeding ground. To this end, you might consider a small nettle patch as this will discourage human contact whilst providing a suitable habitat.

The means of enticing butterflies into the garden depends on your planting, because nectar is primarily what will invite them. To ensure the most hospitable environment, you'll want a variety of plants that will provide nectar all year round, so it is advised you have a balance of spring bloomers such as Daisies, Dandelions, Pansies and Primroses and to compensate their loss in late summer and autumn, a healthy dose of Marigolds, Knapweed and Lavender. Other examples to really boost your butterfly potential are full sun perennials such as Helenium, which will provide bold colour and a large bulbous landing pad for your guests, Lathyrus which offers a daintier foliage and the bonus of scent for us, and the towers of Verbascum, that will dominate the skyline of a butterfly garden - the air traffic control on your own living airfield.

The shrubs that butterflies love include Buddleia, Hebes and Lilac and certain herbs also attract the insect, due to their scent including oregano, thyme and mint. 

It is important to remember that your butterfly population will be relative to your gardening variety i.e. the greater the number and mix of plants, the greater the potential for their propagation.

Due to their erratic behaviour, butterfly spotting is no simple task, however, look out in your own gardens for species like:

the Common Blue with their lilac veined wings and white trim,

 the flambouyant Peacock with big blue ‘eyes’ on its wings, 

or the small Tortoiseshell, tiger striped with segmented blue edging, to know just how much your helping their species. 

Other, threatened, types to watch out for are the toffee coloured Small Skipper and the similar Ginger Lulworth Skipper,

the Chalk Hill Blue, 

and the Wall Brown species.

So to preserve the butterfly population, plant carefully and dare to leave a wild corner in your garden!

By Josh Ellison

The addition of a pond to a garden is nothing to sneeze at, the workload can be arduous, but if you're avid about wildlife then there is no surer way to attract it close to home.

As with any major construction the success of a pond is determined in the planning phase before your spade ever bites into the soil.

As always, your first consideration should be the garden as a whole and what, if anything, a pond could add to the garden. With this mind it is paramount you consider the dimensions of both carefully. While, in theory, a water feature teeming with life might seem an attractive prospect, it can easily become an eye-sore if incorrectly proportioned or styled to the space surrounding it.

In other words, the garden you saw at Chelsea, complete with miniature waterfall and rustic rocky outcroppings, while gorgeous at Chelsea, may not fit in with the formal or contemporary garden you have at home.

Another thing it is important to note is the presence of children or small animals either now or in the future - even an inch of water still poses a threat if underestimated. Also consider the current role of your garden, if you have children of an age that a pond is no danger, question whether they'd appreciate it. A medium sized body of water is no kind of football net!

The most effective site for your pond should be based on where it can be viewed – ideally an area with clear visibility from the most popular areas of the garden and house. This will also provide visibility when a child or pet is near the pond site.

During the winter months your water and plant life will fall prey to prevailing winds and in the summer to evaporation, so you should perhaps site it near to a hose pipe, but away from raised areas.

Another note, one oft overlooked, is to avoid putting it under deciduous trees, as their foliage will settle on the surface and rot, ultimately fouling the water.

Next you must decide on the general structure, as, depending on your preference, certain flora and fauna will require different conditions in order to sustain themselves. For example, if you wish to cater to water-life, then you should forget sustained wildlife, as the former will make prey of the latter! A fresh water pond populated by Koi carp would provide no safe haven for frogs or their offspring, similarly an amphibian population would require different climate conditions to a family goldfish. Thus, it is important to tailor your initial dig with an eye to what it is to support.

If frogs are to spawn there, then it is necessary to provide them with varying depths of water as they prefer to spawn in the shallows while tadpoles and fledglings will require deeper water to mature in. If fish are the primary concern, then a depth of at least of two feet should be observed so that in a harsh winter there will be sufficient depth of water that the whole pond does not freeze. The same goes for unusually hot summers - so that there are cooler depths for them to retreat to.

If you wish to attract smaller land/air based animals such as hedgehogs and birds, the incline of your pond edge will also dictate how hospitable it will be to those who need somewhere convenient to bathe and drink. A pebble ‘beach’ also gives your water based creatures somewhere to bask.

Also remember, if you wish to pursue a fish rich pond, be prepared for the cost of meticulous filtration.

For marginal plants to integrate into the land/water border, a shelf 30cms wide by 30cms deep is suggested for lining with planting baskets and remember only to use aquatic compost, as normal compost will encourage algae growth. This will also provide a secondary site for frogs to lay their spawn.

The inclusion of pond plants is essential to the aesthetic success of your pond. Without them, algae will take over the waters surface and turn the pool into a soup of dead plant life, not to mention strangle the surrounding area of the garden. Take care to avoid invasive species though. 

We'd recommend the introduction of marginal plants such as 

the Marsh Marigold (Caltha palustris), with its yellow buttercup flowers,

and Arrowhead (Sagittaria sagittifolia) with its arrow-shaped leaves and large white flowers. 

To provide some height and places for dragonflies and damselflies to perch, the Sweet Flag (Acorus) genus would be good, 

together with the Yellow Flag Iris (Iris pseudocrorus). 

Water lilies are the quintessential pond plant and their large leaves provide shade and shelter for fish and other pond life. Include some oxygenating plants too, 

such as the Water Violet (Hottonia palustris) 

or Canadian Pondweed (Elodea canadensis) to keep the water clean.

Now we've covered the why and what of your pond, let's talk about how it will be built. One of the primary decisions you make will be what type of lining to use and this is pivotal as the lining will provide the pond’s shape and stability, make it waterproof i.e. prevent leaking, and also decide which species of plant and animal life it will be able to support. Simplicity is key for whatever size and shape of lining you decide on as you'll have to this match in your dig!

The three most popular options are cement, preformed moulds and waterproofing material (butyl liners), each with various pros and cons.

Cement is obviously the most sturdy and will guarantee longevity in the shape of your pond as well as protection against the elements. However, it is hardly the most attractive way of lining your pond, nor the easiest to remove later on. Also, while it will be delayed by the strength of the initial material, inevitable degradation of the concrete by plant roots will be difficult to maintain and more time consuming than a plastic liner.

The plastic shell would be the most attractive option to a novice pond builder as it guarantees a shape, a static structure around which to base the rest of your design, however for a first timer I would not recommend this option. The preparation of your hole must be well nigh flawless to ensure its continued integrity, however the variety of shapes and sizes that these come in do give a wide variety of habitats, as they will provide built-in artificial land slopes and shelving.

The third, and most flexible option of lining, is butyl, as it can be trimmed to any size and shape by hand. However, as always, quality will be dictated by price. It should be noted that the ground needs to be very carefully prepared by removing all stones and a good sandwich layer needs to be laid between the soil and the liner, such as sand or, as a more cost effective means, recycled carpet. As a final insurance against leaking it is imperative to wait until the entire pond is lined with a good overlap and filled with water before trimming it to size.

As I said before, the amount of space required for your pond entirely depends on your preference and, as many experts would say, the size of your pond should be dictated only by your space and budget – the wildlife will grow to fit whatever space you give them!

By Josh Ellison

In my previous blog I shared my thoughts on this year’s Hampton Court entrants, from the point of view of a judge, based on skill and imagination. In retrospect, however, it begs the question of a garden’s purpose - should artistic merit overtake its function as a garden?

Many of the more esoteric beauties I, and thousands of others, witnessed could only serve as a sculpture in a modern garden, becoming a perpetual maintenance routine if one should wish to utilise the space. To this end I’ve reviewed my previous opinions and repealed most of them in response to the relatively short shelf life of these expensive investments. Unlike a gallery, the show garden doesn’t offer art to take home in a box and when a space is wrought with structures too high to sit on or too hard to bounce off, or a marble orb where could be a fountain, or the garden’s canvas leaves no room for a gallery floor, the practicality of these exhibits as usable spaces has to be put in question.

I’d like to start with one of the poets’ gardens as these, I found, were at least partially balanced between function and form. Wordsworth’s reimagining in Rural Architecture leaves a choice to its audience - that it may be exhibited or interacted with, and in doing so, pay homage to the words themselves.

However, its aesthetic merit is somewhat lack-lustre when considering its primary function - rustic and understated can be achieved without show garden price tags. Nothing differentiates it when held as an ornamental piece.

The Jabberwocky received a bit of a slating previously though, despite its fantasy origins, it stands as the most realistic among its neighbours - the confusion of design aspects I chastised, actually affords a balance between its festooning and practicality. It provides a safe and constructive leisure area at the cost of a confident appearance. 

I spoke before of my being humbled in the face of Judith Cornford’s Eye of the Internet Maze and it has not been abated by time, including the weighty and meticulous design previously mentioned, but without any preconceptions is a very calming place to inhabit. The box hedges glide to the gardens epicentre and similarly the surrounding beds enforce the liquid structure of the space.

The World Vision Garden I felt would testify to a night viewing of the Palace gardens, its simplicity is astounding and as an installation piece it’s extremely effective. But nothing can grow, play or bear fruit on it and if it is taken at aesthetic, then it is successful but for the average gardener it has no life beyond Hampton Court.

Of this league, Vestra Wealth’s offering was my favourite. Designer Paul Martin here attempts to recreate the principals of architect Eileen Gray, hence the gardens name Gray’s Garden. A garden of muted colour, it relies instead on the static elements it houses. The design treats its empty space and lack of colour as another element and thus its emptiness seems mathematic, rather than wasteful, and despite this attention to detail it remains fairly low maintenance. The entire piece feels like a sturdy but beautiful piece of furniture, gorgeous to look at and simultaneously very comfortable to sit in. Judging a conceptual garden based on its practicality is something of a paradox and, as such, I’ll avoid it here, I would surmise that the concept garden cannot expect a domestic setting nor desires one, as then its message would be lost behind a garden fence. 

As such, it is more an indulgence on behalf of gardeners that they continue to frequent these shows each year, aside from the obvious gain in checking out the new products that the myriad of stalls have to offer, there is little practical value to the displays. They are merely inspirational pieces, as are the galleries to the new generation of artist.

By Josh Ellison

A Wet Day in Wonderland

The events of last week were paramount on any gardener’s calendar as they marked the beginning of the Hampton Court Palace flower show and thus the world’s largest exhibition of designers, horticulturists and artists whose palette always began with the colour green. As such, I was dispatched last Friday to ascertain the inspiration behind this year’s themes, motifs and designs and also to assert my own opinion on which were most successful.

After a tumultuous, chaotic bus journey from Richmond I found myself at the gates of the palace, by midday already teeming with visitors. Having entered the show ground, I came to the poets’ gardens first, which were to set the standard for the rest of the day. There, six English scholars were paid homage and none more so than Lewis Carroll as, in an attempt to increase the marketability of gardening to children, the RHS held a competition to see which primary school could assemble the best Scarecrow. However, these field guards had to be renderings of the characters of Alice in Wonderland, thus encouraging an interest in classical literature whilst providing a constructive outlet to the participants of the competition.

Unfortunately the Carroll garden itself seemed somewhat less focused in its objective. Its construction appeared erratic and convoluted, unable to settle on a specific colour or material, the design including metal, woodwork, mirror and musical instruments. And while its synopsis suggested a therapeutic space in which troubled youngsters could rehabilitate (with the aid of musical stimulation), it lacked any real relevance to Carroll's Jabberwock, from which it was supposedly drawn.

The next exhibit of interest was an ode to Byron's love poem 'Love's Last Adieu', a fairly claustrophobic space I found, though this was to its credit. A wildly colourful outer sanctum supported by iron trellis and festooned with hanging baskets enclosed and shaded an urn fill with black blooms. The effect was decidedly morbid, however well constructed and I heard one show goer liken Ms. Mathews and the Co-operatives contribution to a mausoleum.

Next I spoke to designer Barry Chambers concerning his garden entitled 'On the Sea' and the steps from initial inspiration provided by Keats' eponymous poem. As the photo shows, it was an extremely impressive project whose ambitions included a 2 metre high artificial cliff face, which, in interview, Mr. Chambers revealed had been purpose sculpted from plaster and wire framing to emulate the setting of Keats' piece. However, the real ingenuity came from the subtler elements of the space as Barry revealed to me the purpose of his use of mirrors, wanting to widen the space visually if not physically, he aligned two mirrors to represent the sea’s horizon, complemented by an azure backing panel. 

My final look at the poets’ gardens, and my fondest, came from Jayne Thomas' rendering of Percy Shelley's ‘Mont Blanc’ and was named as such. I learned in a brief interview how Jayne had moved from ‘Mont Blanc’ the poem to the spectacular physicality she'd constructed.

“The Poem for me was about how Shelley saw and challenged the powers of creation... the raw, elemental power of nature and yet he saw the beauty.... I had a lot of resonance with the poem and for me, I went on a hike and came up with this lovely pattern of the Witches knot and I saw for myself that you could have a big, raw stone formation and then make it pretty.”

And lucky I was to secure her time as she revealed how busy she'd become in the months leading up to the flower show, and just how costly and rewarding her ambition had been.

“The rocks weigh in at nearly forty tons and I had those masoned to order... I've built this kind of rock jig saw... it's planted on three sides, with soft palliative colours so none of them clash and I'm very happy with the planting... I've had a lot of orders for elements of the garden, it appeals on the hard rock side to men and on the planting side to women, so it's like a happy marriage. People can have the strong elements with the pretty planting.”

After a quick lunch I swung over the Palace gardens' dividing bridge to check out the show gardens and found myself at first derisory, and then thrilled by my own lack of insight and the ingenuity of one Judith Cornford. Having no prior experience with figurative architecture, I immediately took her project ‘Eye of the Internet Maze’ at face value, a rather bland picture of the iconic eye of Big Brother. How wrong my interpretation was! After catching Judith, she passionately explained to me her reasoning and the clever minutiae that formed her project that I would have otherwise missed. The term ‘maze’ comes from her own experiences of discomfort and claustrophobia of the seemingly inescapable and simultaneously inaccessible digital playground. 

Touring the rear of the garden she explained how the font at its centre represented the fountain of information that remained illusive to those who are unfamiliar with its interface, and how this confusion is realised by the hedgerow pathway at whose entrance it is impossible to face the font directly.  Furthermore, a garland surrounds the water feature as a gift to the perseverance of those who make it there. So my initial observation was shattered and I really had to stand in awe of Cornford's attention to detail, more of which remains to be said.

Now, the ‘Naked Garden’ was a project about which I'd seen a lot of coverage, but I wasn't sure what to make of it. The impetus of this project, it seemed, was to expose the features of a plant that would be generally concealed. The method admittedly was ambitious, the use of large scale hydroponics in a show garden, however it seemed ill advised as this meant that the artificiality of the garden became unavoidable. One could see the pipes and irrigation systems that sustained the plants and the focus on synthetic symmetry was likewise undermined by the chaotic nature of plants themselves, whose shape abided no formula and whose murky waters seemed not in keeping with the clinical nature of the architecture which was all polished glass and ceramic. 

Let's talk concept. Seeming at first out of place in Hampton Courts riot of colour I stumbled across the barren plains of 'Enduring Freedom?' - a design by Nete Hoijlun and Corinne Sharp that focuses on the ongoing conflict in Afghanistan. Nete explained to me that the nature of her motivation behind this project stemmed from her own son's involvement in the war, due to conscription in her native Netherlands. Picture, if you will, a series of pillars of varying height, a dry beige wall dominates the foreground behind, and beyond that, desert. Along one side lies a poppy field. And thus the metaphor begins, each of the pillars represents the casualty number of a specific year in the conflict, and their height is respective to that number. You have the safety of statistics on one side of the wall, the danger of the battleground on the other, punctuated succinctly by the soldiers themselves, represented by the iconic poppy flower. But it goes deeper, for we can't forget the heroin trade that fuels the Afghan army, buys their munitions, thus poppies beget more poppies.

After crossing the Thai quarter and indulging in some of their cracking curry, I came to Anoushka Feiler's inverted ‘Eden’. Taken from the famous Hendrix jam, 'Excuse Me While I Kiss the Sky', it specialises in a similar sort of perception shift that he was known for. As you enter the space you'll be handed a square of mirror and you'll notice a whole mess of other mirrors too, curving around the perimeter, one large reflective sphere at the centre. You'll look around a little confused, then up and then down. A network of hanging pots comprises the upside down garden, I was fortunate that the weather picked up as I entered and I was able to appreciate her vision fully, the sky has become the lawn and the lawn has become insignificant. The whole area pays homage to the infinitely more vast space above it and thus the garden itself is enlarged.

All in all, a superb garden and a superb show, follow this blog for the coming debate, ‘Practicality vs Aesthetic’ - does the show garden have a life beyond the exhibition?

By Josh Ellison

In one of my recent visits to the East End, a friend of mine, and a local resident to the Stepney end of Tower Hamlets, imparted some disturbing news. Those of you familiar with this area of London will readily recall the urban dominance of tower blocks and concrete and steel. Needless to say green spaces such as parks, are few and far between and the abundance of vertical living spaces affords few people the luxury of a garden.

I took time out to interview Roger Mills, a resident of the Pitsea estate, while I was there to get his thoughts on the rarity and subsequent value of such areas.

“Before we were relocated to the maisonette we didn't have a balcony let alone a garden, and it meant instead of spending an hour packing bags and the kids off to a local park they could step out the back door. The way these flats are built you'd need to ride the elevator ten floors just to see what the weather was like... And there's also the social aspect, we can pop our heads over and see people taking care of their gardens and smell their cooking, generally keep up with the community... So I'm really into inner city gardens but obviously they're impractical in large numbers.”

As Mr Mills suggests, when possessed of a garden yourself then the need for public spaces becomes less apparent, particularly for children, however he also makes clear that it is a fortunate family that finds themselves afforded such a space in the inner city. That is why it is critical to protect and keep those spaces publicly available to compensate for this deficit.

I've talked to death in previous articles about the various psychological and emotional detriments of not having a green area and so am now obliged to mention Shadwell Park a.k.a. King Edward VII memorial park. First opened in 1922, it has long served as a commemorative site for the King himself and also for a group of sailors lost to the Northern sea in their pursuit of India. Today it boasts one of the finest views of the river without climbing a set of stairs- a view currently under threat.

Until recently an initiative by Thames Water had selected this historical garden as the construction site for its new 'Super Sewer'. However, that plan was quickly batted down by local families with the support of Tower Hamlets council and the office of the Mayor of London. Unfortunately, this has not guaranteed the parks safety, as the subsidiary section of the plant, a forty five foot high ventilation shaft, still looks to be located at the front of the park. While part of the park may survive such changes, there are one hundred trees, a children's playground, children’s football pitch and the bandstand that earned the park's raucous reputation, would be lost.

Perhaps the greatest outrage amidst all this is that despite this being called an eco-friendly move designed to save the River Thames from the failing Victorian sewers, a flower meadow known to be host to the endangered stag beetle would be among the sections destroyed. And what can we do? The meeting date has passed unfortunately but history has shown us that outright protest has no allotted time or date, and if and when the bulldozers rear their heads it falls to us to stand firmly in front of them, to protect our parks and each other.

By Josh Ellison

A recurrent theme of our blogs has been the psychological and therapeutic merits of horticulture and as such, this week’s instalment will cast light on a variety of different people that utilise such benefits, rather than seek a purely practical garden, if such a thing exists!

Headley Court

At Headley Court, in Surrey, the arena of horticulture has been populated with stories of ex-servicemen's rehabilitation through green-fingered pursuits. 

Due to the intensity of their previous training, Headley recognises the frustration facing ex-servicemen and women as a result of the impotence that any debilitating injury or psychological trauma can cause. And so the horticultural project at Headley seeks to encourage practical application and development of domestic skill sets as well appealing to the most basic psychological needs, such as that of caring for another species.

Behavioural approaches aside, there is also the physical aspect of a demanding green space that provides the wounded with a constructive means of exercise. Also, due to the severity of some, it provides finite goals to work toward whilst acquiring new expertise.

The facility itself is a MOD (Ministry of Defence) site manned by medical specialists from all three military branches and has been in operation for nearly seventy years. It originated as the Canadian military headquarters in Europe and later became an initiative whose primary aim was to return any injured military personnel to full fitness.

The Thrive Project

The Thrive project located at Battersea and established in 1984, is derived from a somewhat more educational and social focus within gardening. 

While the original site was designed by the Disabled Living Foundation to be enjoyed by their tenants within a controlled and secure environment, Thrive has transcended the frivolities of a purely decorative or recreational space and now strives to improve its users’ quality of life in a long-term sense. Hence the employment of specialists, dubbed 'horticultural therapists', whose responsibility it is to maintain a social and personal relationship with some two hundred disabled Londoners in order that they may encourage the primary initiatives of Thrive.

First among these is not dissimilar to Headley Court’s approach - the desire to improve the attendees’ physical health and thus optimise their chances of recovery. Aside from the labour required on their behalf to design and maintain the garden, this area is further complemented by the environment of the garden itself; particularly the exposure to fresh air and natural stimuli such as sunlight.

Then there is the psychological rehabilitation inherent to such work - by being exposed to such a creative outlet, psychological precepts such as initiative and basic confidence in one’s own ideas can be taken on board. Also, there is the decisiveness of choosing which plants will flourish in which environment and how best to structure a variety of them to suit your taste and, as any gardener knows, the patience and concentration required to devote yourself to such a detailed and long term goal.

These skills are transferable to the majority of life scenarios that would later confront the Thrive gardeners post-rehabilitation and, by having initial practise in them, they can hope to better execute them when the stakes are higher i.e. when trying for a new job or planning to travel.

The final and perhaps most important aspect of Thrive’s programme is the social stimulation it offers. By working alongside and in the co-operation of other gardeners, each can experience an intimately social environment, one where team work is necessary and, in many cases paramount, thus enhancing their own confidence in other social situations.

The Permaculture Association

Another body specialising in this branch of horticulture is the Permaculture Association, however their relevance here appeals more to stress relief and sanctuary from modern society. They've recently introduced a forestry project sympathetic to workaholics, among a myriad of other initiatives that members of the public have been invited to pursue. 

Their guiding principles centre on the practicality of horticulture and how our sociology can be guided and benefited by the integration of human interests to natural alternatives.

Those of you who've read the previous articles on this site will be aware of the medicinal qualities of so many species and their application in herbal medicine, however this is only a starting point for organisations like Permaculture. As a charitable organisation, however, many of their interests are to be found abroad where the need is greatest for sustainable ventures.

Your Garden

The relevance all this of to you is that your garden needn't only be a place for raising vegetables, or a lawn for a child and their ball. The enjoyment of your outside space can be a stress relief in itself.

In a sense, a garden is life you've created or at the very least encouraged - an interior universe of your design and control and thus the antithesis of what the exterior world can be.

Your garden can be a haven from all the hustle and bustle of everyday life, a place of reparation for the mind and body in beautiful surroundings - surroundings you choose.

And so, take these examples as a starting point of what some simple horticulture can achieve. If it can work for the armed forces and all the traumas they’ve been through, it can surely work for us.

By Josh Ellison

If you get the chance to visit Leeds Castle in Kent this summer, don’t miss out on the Culpeper Gardens, located just past the castle and restaurants. It is a traditional garden named after the castle’s 17th century owners, but despite its mature appearance, it was only started in 1980.

We visited a couple of weeks ago, were blessed with glorious weather and treated to the sight of a wonderfully English garden with low Box hedging containing a profusion of colourful planting. 

Big blousy roses jostled with...

papery oriental poppies...

and huge, starry alliums.

It was absolutely stunning and the perfume was great too.

The castle itself has lost some of its Tudor ambience, having been a family home right up until the last owner died in 1974, but remains one of the most romantic settings in England. There are other gardens of interest there too, including the Woodland Garden with its meandering streams, the Lady Baillie Garden, which overlooks the lake, and a maze and grotto built in 1987.

Well worth the visit, even if it did seem a bit expensive! However, your ticket does give you unlimited free entry for a year, so make the most of it - we will be!

By Helen Ellison

In recent weeks a new threat to the British eco-system has reared its tiny head. Due to the rising rate of imported plants by domestic horticulturists, an infestation of exotic moth larvae has seen the increased propagation of a new breed of toxic caterpillar. 

The Oak Processionary Moth, as the caterpillar’s adult form has been named, is another addition to the list of naturally occurring threats to the indigenous Oaks of Britain.

The better part of five hundred European oaks has been infected by the sudden outbreak that has left the green curator of Kew gardens, Tony Kirkham, concerned for not only the health of one of Britain's most iconic species, but also for the human populous itself. The presence of this species of caterpillar has caused an outbreak of skin irritation among those exposed to it and the hairs of the insect have been linked to asthma attacks.

As a precautionary measure, in 2006 an initiative was begun to eradicate the species by the Royal Botanic Society following the discovery of several nests at Kew. While the insects are not considered directly responsible for the decline of the Oak species, they're ravenous consumption of the species foliage detriments its ability to photosynthesise, thus stunting its growth.

In response to this threat, a six-mile containment net has been cast around the boroughs of London worst affect by the plight as the durability of the moths has proved too effective against attempts to quell it and, instead, containment has been decided as the most effective means of protecting London's oaks. Alongside this, more stringent measures, including the introduction of OPM (Office for Public Management) passports for any Oaks entering the United Kingdom from the EU have been introduced.

The symptoms of the caterpillars’ presence will be recognized by a sharp defoliation of the affected specimen and in humans, their presence can also be recognized by unexplained skin irritation and itchy eyes. When contact is made with the insect, the toxin laced hairs that cover their body freely detach and in extreme cases can cause conjunctivitis or, when inhaled, anaphylaxis. The larvae will commonly move in single file when attempting to find sustenance and form tightly woven silk nests when dormant.

It is also important to note that their appetites are not isolated to Oak, this only being a preference, the caterpillar has also been known to feed on Birch, Beech, Hornbeam and Chestnut. Unfortunately, due to their predominantly tan and brown colour scheme, the moths of this family are difficult to differentiate from their bark environment. Their wing span varies between 25 and 35 centimetres.

So keep your eyes peeled and if you see them, don’t touch them or attempt to remove them, but report to Forestry Research or your local council.

By Josh Ellison

Artisan Charm at Chelsea

In May through to July our horticultural appetites are indulged by the two dominant flower shows in England, and the first is the subject of this week’s editorial - the Chelsea Flower Show.

However, rather than attempt a complete synopsis of something so grand and overwhelming, I’ve decided instead to focus on a new addition to the event’s proceedings. Setting a precedent this year is the introduction of the ‘Artisan’ design category. The term originates with the pre-industrial era and the consequent production of decorative commercial goods by the individual, rather than corporations. 

One such product was stationery and homage to one of its original producers, Basildon Bond, serves as the theme of one of my six selections from Chelsea. The materials of the garden reflect its designer’s tribute to Bond with an authentically realised replica of the clock rumoured to hang in the managers cottage at Apsley Mill. Complementing this, William Quarmby, of Quarmby Landscaping and Design, has coated the walls with weather proof paper. However the real star of the garden is the Acer griseum planted back stage centre, neatly pinning its centre piece - a pair of seats and desk, to the context of the joys of stationery.

Speaking of seating, it has been a time honoured philosophy in Korea that time spent in the toilet be one of reflection and relaxation, Jihae Hwang has composed the plant list of his ‘Hae-woo-so’ garden accordingly, with a predominantly neutral and calming colour scheme of shades of greens and yellows, designed to help to ‘empty one’s mind’ as one progresses to the garden path’s conclusion.

Half a world away, yet within walking distance, from Hwang’s East Asian philosophies, there lies the Yorkshire landscape as embodied in the three respective depths of field inherent to the ‘Welcome to Yorkshire’ garden’s lay out. Square paving with grassy division represent Yorkshire’s endless fields, followed by its moors here embodied with meadow flowers, and finally a pair of curved stone walls play the part of its rolling dales. Citing inspiration from the areas most famous artists, i.e. David Hockney, Henry Moore, Barbara Hepworth etc, it  also includes one of Hepworth’s own sculptures, ‘Ascending Form’.

The next two entries are somewhat more prosaic as they strive to entertain and to relax rather than inspire. Both cater to children which immediately raises connotations of simplicity, however they should not be dismissed so readily.

The first, a Steve Hall design, is intended as a living recipe book to the Fever Tree drinks company and thus utilises many of the species used in their products, in particular, the recycled timber of Cinchona calisaya that contributed to the tree house’s construction.

The second, designed by Ysgol Bryn Castell and Heronbridge Scool Horticultural Students with Anthea Guthrie, is an attempt to recreate the children’s garden of the late 1940s, including some of the toys typical of that generation i.e. hobby horses and a silver cross pram.

Then there is the realisation of antiquated Welsh sensibility, designed by Katie Crome and Maggie Hughes. It contains rustic architecture and simple design to successfully evoke the simplicity of life away from the metropolis. Including a classically schemed blue and white stone shack and simple planting scheme, localising it to any of a thousand windy beach fronts, it is a postcard indeed.

Finally, Martin Cook's and Bonnie Davis’ entry is designed somewhat paradoxically. While it serves a function, in that it was intended as a poet’s retreat, its planting scheme is unstructured to the point of wilderness, so its practicality is undermined by the very art it encourages with verse and quotation carved into its foundations and features. It is this reporter’s opinion that such disorder is necessary to inspire any original thought, and that from such chaos perhaps the design pair will stimulate your own creativity.

By Josh Ellison

May has to be my favourite month in the garden.

Everything’s so fresh and green, and some of my favourite plants are coming into flower now.

Floral & Hardy’s Top Ten Plants for May:

1. Aquilegia – 

‘Columbine’ or ‘Granny’s Bonnet’ – an old cottage garden favourite with pretty ferny foliage and dainty flowers with long ‘spurs’. They come in many colours and self-seed freely around the garden. They reach 60-90cms tall depending on variety. Plant them near to the front of the border so you can see the delicate blooms.

2. Azaleas and Rhododendrons – 

Actually azaleas are rhododendrons too, but we tend to think only of the larger leathery-leafed evergreen species as rhododendrons. The deciduous and smaller oriental types, we think of as azaleas. Many of the colourful deciduous varieties are beautifully scented. Generally speaking the azaleas can take more sun than the rhodos, but all need an acid soil. Try and visit one of the open gardens in your area this month to see spectacular displays. You can find out where they are from the Open Garden Scheme or from the RHS.

3. Ceanothus ‘Concha’ (AGM) – 

‘Californian Lilac’ - one of my absolute favourite garden shrubs, this has the deepest of blue flowers in profusion. It can grow quite large (about 3ms tall and wide) so you do need space for it, but it’s worth it. Try growing a pink Clematis montana through it for a lovely colour combination, and later flowering Clematis to prolong the flowering season.

4. Cercis canadensis ‘Forest Pansy’(AGM) – 

Judas Tree – despite its unfortunate common name – given because it was believed to be the tree Judas hanged himself from – this is a really pretty small garden tree. The deep pink flowers give a dramatic display on the bare branches and these are followed by heart-shaped, deep purple leaves, turning yellow in autumn. It will eventually grow about 10ms tall.

5. Choisya ternata (AGM) – 

‘Mexican Orange Blossom’ – so called for the sweetly scented white, star-shaped flowers. This is such an easy shrub to grow and I use it a lot in my designs. It’s evergreen and so also makes a good foil for other flowering plants later in the season. There are several different varieties – some with finely divided foliage and some with lime green leaves. It makes a rounded shrub about 1.5ms tall and wide.

6. Convallaria magalis – 

‘Lily of the Valley’ – an easily overlooked plant, as it only reaches about 25cms high, until that is, you get a whiff of its wonderful fragrance. The bell-like flowers are generally white and their scent has been used for making perfume for centuries. They make good ground cover in woodland or shady borders. Fit for a future queen!

7. Dicentra spectabilis (AGM) – 

‘Bleeding Heart’ – so named for the shape of its pendant flowers, this is another plant that prefers woodland or shady conditions, although it will tolerate sun if the soil is moist. It has attractive ferny foliage and is also available in white. It grows to about 60cms tall.

8. Paeonia suffruticosa – 

Tree Peony – we’re probably all familiar with the herbaceous peony with its large blousy, blood red flower, but the tree peony is less well known. They make large shrubs (to about 2ms) with attractive deeply cut foliage and big bowls of papery petals in red, pink, white or yellow. They’re not hard to grow, just give them a sunny, sheltered site and stake the flowers if they’re too heavy!

9. Papaver orientale – 

‘Oriental Poppy’ – what can I say – big, bold and beautiful. These flamboyant flowers are available in colours ranging from white to deep red, but most have black bases to the petals and prominent black anthers. In recent years the variety ‘Patty’s Plum’ has been very popular, but I like the brighter, orange-red blooms of ‘Marcus Perry’. The only down-side is the fact that the foliage dies down after flowering, so cut back and plant other perennials around them to fill the gaps.

10. Polygonatum hybridum (AGM) – 

‘Solomon’s Seal’ – another old cottage garden plant, but its elegant form and flower would look just as good in a contemporary scheme. Its graceful arching stems grow to about 1m high and carry pendant green-tipped, white bells. It’s another one for the shadier parts of the garden.

MAY TIPS AND ADVICE

1. Stake herbaceous plants if you haven’t already done so, particularly tall specimens like delphiniums, to stop the precious flowers being broken off.

2. You can still sow hardy annuals such as nasturtiums, marigolds and sweet peas where they are to flower if you’re quick, otherwise you can sow some perennials outdoors now, such as Lupins, Delphiniums and Achilleas.

3. If you sowed annuals last month you should be ready to thin them out now. On average you should leave about 10-15cms between them but obviously that will depend on the size of the mature plant, but make sure you keep the strongest looking specimens.

4. If you didn’t mulch around your plants earlier, either with good home-made compost, well-rotted manure or bark, do it now to help keep the moisture in the soil.

5. Keep looking out for pests such as aphids and caterpillars and deal with them promptly by whichever method you prefer.

6. Any dead shoots on climbers such as Passiflora (Passion Flower) and Trachelospermum (Evergreen Jasmine) can be pruned out now, and, if it’s got too rampant, old favourite Clematis montana can be cut hard back now, immediately after the flowers have faded.

7. Formal hedges can be cut back to shape this month, although be careful if you have Leylandii that you do not cut back into old brown wood, as this plant does not regenerate.

8. If you have a new pond and are starting to get an algae problem, don’t be tempted to empty the pond and start again, as this will only prolong the problem. Instead remove the blanketing algae by twirling a bamboo cane in it to get it all out, then make sure you have some good aquatic planting to grow on and cast some shade over the pond, such as Water Lilies and Water Hyacinth . Oxygenating plants are also very beneficial and your local aquatics shop can advise you.

9. Early May is really the last chance to sow new lawns

10. Finally, make sure you are watering and feeding everything regularly from now on, especially in periods of dry weather.

By Helen Ellison, Floral & Hardy's Garden Designer

A recurring theme of our blog has been the preservation of British wildlife and protection of institutions like the hedgerow and our native forests. However, this week we address a much subtler and perhaps overlooked threat to our indigenous horticulture. 

It's no secret that this spring has seen an uncharacteristic early waking of the Bluebell, but a common misunderstanding is the assumption that all Bluebells in England are English. Unfortunately, our native bluebell population is being overtaken by a foreign intruder, the Spanish Blubell, or (dum-de-dum-dum) ‘Hyacinthoides hispanica’. 

Like the North American grey squirrel, this continental sibling, by cross-pollination, is fast out-populating it's local rival. It is however, more than possible, and downright easy, to still enjoy this native symbol in its original form as the Wildlife Trust provides a database on their website that lists all the English and Welsh woodlands that host Hyacinthoides non-scripta. 

To help you identify which is which, the English bluebell is generally a deeper blue and holds all its pendant blooms on one side of its arching stem... 

whilst the Spanish bluebell has flowers alternately on both sides.

According to National Trust naturalist Matt Oates:

“The bluebell starts growing in January with the sole purpose to flower before the other woodland plants which have stalled because of the dry weather, this means that the bluebell is relatively free from competition and attracts the early spring pollinators”.

What this means for you is that the propagation of what has been voted the nation’s favourite flower, has been exponentially increased as they've a longer period of pollination than other species and in accordance with Matt's diagnosis, this March was the driest in forty years, and February the hottest of the last decade. With global warming on the rise, could this lead to a rejuvenation of the Bluebell species, their native climate now much more hospitable to their needs? One must hope so otherwise we can tick off another British institution, another symbol of our horticultural influence, lost to the annals of history because it just couldn't compete.

So get out and enjoy them while you can, as there is surely nothing more stunning than a sea of bluebells in a British woodland flooded with dappled sunlight.

By Josh Ellison

The past decade has seen an alarming decline in insect numbers, bees specifically, and in a domestic respect this is largely attributable to the decrease of their natural habitats. 

Since 1979 the indigenous Hymenoptera, (the group of insects comprising sawflies, wasps, bees and ants), of the British Isles have halved in population.

Alerted by this, the Food & Environment Research Agency and the Natural Environment Research Council's (NERC) centre for Ecology and Hydrology has undertaken a conservation project to encourage new living grounds for the bee, moth and ant population.

 In conjunction with several charity groups, including Buglife, and under the guidance of the Biotechnology and Biological Sciences Research Council (BBSRC), NERC plan to establish bee roads forming a cross country vein and merging in Yorkshire. Local agriculturalists are being asked to sow parallel wild flower tracks on their land, whose bloom season will form a rich corridor of pollen. Buglife's involvement stems from the need for these refuge points. They led the protest against the redevelopment of the brownfield zones along the Thames waterline which supported a significant population of Hymenoptera.

There also has been some corporate interest in bees’ welfare and not without good reason, for aside from the ecological ramifications, there lies the monetary cost of the loss of the most prolific pollinator in the British ecosystem, not to mention the cheapest! Their absence could cost us £440,000,000 per year as their loss would have a catastrophic effect on domestic agriculture and force us to replace their free service with increased imports and alternative pollination methods.

In light of this, the supermarket chain The Co-Operative, has taken interest in the new conservation venture, donating £60,000 to the project that plans to restore 12 acres of Yorkshire countryside. 

Good for them, we say, and let’s hope many other sponsors get involved and these colourful living corridors spread all across the country.

By Josh Ellison

This week we'll be departing from domestic gardening conventions to appreciate the traditions of a more exotic vein of horticulture; one whose stylistic boundaries, while not necessarily correlating with European tastes, are still invaluable as a source of inspiration - namely the design, reasoning and aesthetic of the neo-classical Japanese garden.

Traditionally there are three archetypes of the Japanese garden - Karesansui, Tsukiyama and Chaniwa, and while their origins and objectives vary widely, you can be assured of several common elements that unite the trio:

There is the focus on water: whether real or symbolic, water is one of the major elements of a Japanese garden as the ethos is to succumb to nature, and never attempt to implement in your garden something that nature could not itself create.

With that focus comes the presence of symbolism itself. The Japanese often sought to recreate famous landscapes of Japan or China and, to do this, used symbolism combined with the motif of reduced scale i.e. a rock may represent a mountain or a stretch of sand, the ocean.

Attention to detail is key. While western psychology has adopted a compulsion to fill every available space with something physical, the the Karesansui can appear alien to western eyes - it's emptiness seeming wasteful without the abstract thinking that realised it.

It is the Karesansui that best personifies the Japanese gardening psychology, purely form, rather than function, it serves only to represent something greater than itself, thus it's English translation "dry landscape garden". To us, gravel or sand is utilised primarily as a practical surface for paths or drives, however the sands of the Karesansui are frequently the centre piece for the entire tableau, representing a great body of water or landscape then furnished with miniature islands, mountains or forests. Hence the popularity of the Bonsai Tree. To attain the authenticity of the Karesansui you could, for example, make  the dwarf conifer Juniperus procumbens ‘Nana’ an addition to your plant list, and there are many other miniature species that mimic their statuesque forest counterparts, so shop around to ensure that your micro forest is in keeping with the rest of the garden's personality.

The origins of Karesansui are entwined with the practice of temple gardening, the style indigenous to Zen Buddhism and the pursuit of tranquillity through labour. Creating an appropriate atmosphere is an essential step in ensuring the space maintains an air of serenity and detachment from the functional world. Fencing and shrubbery conceal surrounding buildings and other artificial intrusions from view to ensure this.

It is within the theme of boundaries and surroundings that Karesansui marries with Tsukiyama, whose most definite role is as the gardener’s diorama. Used to appreciate pre-established scenes within nature, the authentic Tsukiyama is probably the most difficult to recreate as it relies upon naturally grand surroundings or at least a locale that affords vistas worth exploiting. It is with this style that the concept of documenting famous landscapes originated. By applying careful planning, the objective is to give the illusion of space, so that even the minutest of environments seems grand due to the inclusiveness of its surroundings. Gardens in mountainous areas were known for this, as the mountains themselves were integrated to the space despite existing outside of its boundaries. It is essential therefore to consider your environment before embarking on a Tsukiyama project as it's fundamental principle depends on creating an image greater than the space allows. It is designed to heighten appreciation for that which nature has already created, an ornament rather than the whole Christmas tree.

Finally the Chaniwa garden. This style departs from the artistic imbalance between form and function and instead amalgamates the two. The Chaniwa, or "Tea Garden", originated in a ceremonial capacity as a veritable outdoor chapel. It is here that the water element is most prevalent as these spaces required basins or altars at which guests could purify themselves. It is there also that the resistance to artificiality is muted as pavilions and lanterns devoted to the ceremonies are not only encouraged, but form one of the key institutions of the Tea Garden. Other common conventions include an island surrounded by a pond, designated for the pavilion and also designed to be viewed from the water itself and as a vantage point from which to observe the rest of space. Stepping stones and bridges therefore are also common to this design as a necessity to make a convenient  transit between the separate areas. Stone lanterns may be added to complement the theme.

So if you are thinking of transforming your garden with a Japanese theme, one of the above styles may suit you, whether it’s the form over function mimicry of the wonders of nature, or the calm serenity of a temple garden. If it’s the more sociable atmosphere of a tea garden you’re after you’d better start pavilion shopping!

By Josh Ellison

Now the clocks have gone forward, we can look forward to warmer weather and longer evenings spent outside enjoying our gardens. We had a few good days towards the end of March, so let’s hope it continues!

Floral & Hardy’s Top Ten Flowering Plants for April

1. Anemone blanda – 

If you have a patch in full sun, plant drifts of these pretty little daisy-like flowers with narrow blue petals surrounding a bright yellow disc for stunning effect.

2. Brunnera – 

In contrast, these ground cover perennials prefer shady conditions and their large, heart-shaped, and sometimes variegated leaves, and branching sprays of small, star-shaped blue or white flowers can really brighten up areas under leafy trees. They’ll even give you a second flush of flowers in autumn!

3. Clematis alpina – 

A deciduous climber with attractive fresh green foliage and delicate, nodding, bell-shaped blooms of blue, white or pink, followed by interesting feathery seedheads.

4. Clematis armandii – 

Another climber, this time evergreen, with long, glossy leaves and vanilla-scented white, or pale pink flowers. Grow in a sunny spot, but cover the soil around the roots with pebbles or other evergreen planting, as all Clematis like to keep their roots in the shade.

5. Pieris – 

You’ll need acid soil for this evergreen shrub with its vibrant red new growth in spring and its long sprays of white, lily-of-the-valley-like blooms. Given the right conditions, it can grow up to 3ms tall, so make sure you’ve got the space for it!

6. Primula japonica – 

There are many types of Primula, but this is one of my particular favourites – the ‘Candelabra Primula’. It bears its flowers in a series of whorls up the stem, giving its common name, and is best grown in moist soil.

7. Pulsatilla vulgaris –  

The ‘Pasque Flower’ should be grown in full sun and is ideal for the rockery or a raised bed where its delicate beauty can be fully appreciated. The silky buds open into purple or red, star-shaped flowers, followed by the ferny foliage and later, attractive silky seedheads.

8. Skimmia – 

A small, compact evergreen shrub with dark green, glossy foliage and fragrant white flowers from pink buds, followed, if you have both male and female varieties, by bright red berries. Another one for gardens with acid soil, but this time shade suits best.

9. Spiraea arguta – 

Commonly called ‘Bridal Wreath’, this was the first shrub I ever bought, and it’s still one of my favourites. The arching branches are smothered with clusters of tiny white flowers at this time of year and it’s so easy to grow, flourishing in most soils and sun or partial shade.

10. Tulipa – 

We’re all familiar with Tulips and there are so many types and colours to choose from, there’s bound to be one to suit you. Plant the bulbs in full sun in late autumn to enjoy them next spring, or but them ‘in the green’ now for instant effect.

 

April Tips and Advice

1. Your herbaceous plants will all be showing now. Support those that are going to need it with cane wigwams or other purpose-made supports before it’s too late! Plants such as oriental poppies and perennial geraniums can soon start to look messy if they are allowed to flop over.

2. Feed your roses with a well-balanced fertiliser, or better still mulch around the plant with good organic material. Also make sure you treat as soon as there are any signs of aphids or black spot. There are chemical treatments on the market to deal with both these problems, but if you are trying to be a little more eco-friendly, planting other plants such as Marigolds and Poached Egg Plants nearby has been proven to reduce aphid numbers as they attract beneficial insects, such as Hoverflies, Ladybirds and Lacewings to eat them. Many people have success by spraying weekly with very diluted washing-up liquid - about one teaspoon to a couple of litres of water. Failing that, just rub the aphids off with your fingers! If you notice black spot on your roses, be sure to remove any infected leaves and also any leaves that have fallen. Do not put them on the compost heap but either burn them or throw them away as otherwise the infection will be spread all around the garden when you use the compost.

3. Look out for Lily Beetles (bright red) in your emerging Lilies and  Fritillaries. There is no chemical to eradicate them, so just pick them off and crush them, or they’ll demolish the plants in days.

4. If your evergreen Viburnums have been attacked, leaving the leaves looking like brown lace, you’ve probably got Viburnum Beetle. Spray the new foliage now with a treatment containing permethrin, bifenthrin, pirimiphos-methyl, fenitrothion or pyrethrum (available at your garden centre) and at intervals throughout the season to prevent it happening again.

5. Prune early flowering shrubs such as Forsythia, Ribes (Ornamental Currant) and Chaenomeles (Japanese Quince) as soon as the flowers have faded. They will flower next spring on this year’s new growth, so if you leave it too late you’ll be cutting off next year’s flowering shoots. Pruning at the wrong time is the main reason why many people find that their shrubs don’t flower.

6. You can feed your lawn with a spring/summer feed and mow every week from now until the autumn. Your grass may have grown a little bit over the autumn and winter and, as grasses should only have their top third removed to promote healthy growth, you should start with the blades set high. You can gradually lower the blades over the season, but never ‘scalp’ the lawn, as this will lead to bald patches and allow moss to thrive.

7. New lawns can be sown now after carefully preparing the soil by raking level, firming and raking again. Make sure you water thoroughly – even if it rains!

8. Wildflower meadows can also be sown now. Make sure you choose a mix that is suitable for your site and soil conditions. There are many mixes available – for wet or dry soils, chalk or clay, shade or sun – easy!

9. You can sow Californian Poppies, Cornflowers, Marigolds and Sweet Peas outside now, right where they are to flower. Make sure the soil is well-prepared and weed-free and simply sow them according to the instructions on the packet for an inexpensive show of colour all summer long.

10. April is also the best month to plant stunning Magnolias. They are best grown in a sunny or lightly-shaded spot, and although their flower display is quite short-lived, I’m sure you’ll agree, they’re worth it!

By Helen Ellison, Garden Designer

In light of the rumoured approaching summer, and with the  hope of warmer weather ahead, I give to you this week a list of tropical plants suitable for a metropolitan environment. City gardens often suffer, not just because of space restrictions or local conditions, but more commonly through lack of imagination. With a little planning you can have your own urban jungle, but of the green kind!

Many inner city gardens have their own sheltered little micro-climate, making them ideal for more tender and exotic-looking plants.

The candidates below are all selected based on their compatibility to the urban environment.

1. Dicksonia Antarctica, otherwise known as the soft tree fern. This hardy semi-evergreen, which can grow up to 6 metres in the wild, can survive acidic or alkaline soils, thus immunizing it against the effects of city pollution. Commonly seen in the gardens of Cornwall, this lush-looking species will spore after several years and, due to the unique nature of the plants trunk, it can provide an ecological foundation for epiphytic ferns and vines – plants that derive only physical support and not nutrition from their host, though they may sometimes damage the host. With consistent trimming, the shoots of previous leaves will rot and amalgamate as the plant thrives with older generations of fronds sealing the trunk to protect it from weather and desiccation. The Dicksonia is best planted in heavily mulched and watered soil, but can flourish in semi-shade or sun, with a cold margin of minus 5 centigrade. However, additional protection is recommended during severe weather periods or prolonged winters by capping the trunk with a layer of straw. This can be removed in spring along with any old fronds that have turned brown. Spray the trunk and leaves with water during periods of dry weather.

2. Cordlyine australis, or Cabbage Palm, is one of the most prevalent monocot species on earth, originating in New Zealand. (Monocot seedlings typically have one cotyledon (seed-leaf), and many plants cultivated for their blooms are also from the monocot group, notably lilies, daffodils, irises, amaryllis, orchids, cannas bluebells abd tulips).

The Cabbage Palm is also commonly known as the Torquay Palm throughout Britain as it can be seen all along the mild coastal resorts of the south-west, where it reaches up to 5 metres in height. But we’re talking city living here, and that’s fine too because the Cordyline thrives either in the ground, or in a pot. It is fire resistant like the Dicksonia and can regrow from shoots, stems or even a trunk stump.

The plant’s season begins in autumn, the leaves now tightened to a spear by summer’s departure guard the inflorescence that unoccupied growing tips produce for the spring. Throughout spring these flowers will serve as a watering ground for a myriad of different insects, honey bees and moths, predominantly, until late summer when the specimens fruits will ripen and provide seeds for bird dispersal.

There is little maintenance – just remove any dead leaves.

3. Trachycarpus fortunei, otherwise known as the Chusan Palm, is another palm tree notable for its hardiness and fertility. Indigenous to the rainforests of Burma, it is one of the most prolific palms in the world and due to its natural habitat in the mountain ranges of Japan and Southern China, it is possessed of an extraordinarily high tolerance to cold weather. The aesthetic value of the plant is enormous, with its interesting fibrous trunk, huge green fan-like leaves and a choice of green or yellow flowering depending on which gender you cultivate, and splashes of blue brown during it's autumn fruiting stage. However when investing in the Chusan, or indeed any palm, it is important to note the scale of the commitment you're embarking on, they're avoided by many horticulturists due to their impractical yield time, meaning that, unless you buy a fairly mature specimen, many home owners may well have moved house before the plant matures! Ultimately they can reach up to 20 metres, but this would take many years. Balanced soil is ideal, not flooded, not sun baked, and preferably sheltered if wind damage is likely.

4. Musa basjoo, the Japanese fibre banana, although now contested to have originated in China's Sichuan province, is named for the commercial potential of its fibres as a textile. It is considered an ornamental plant and, due to its hardiness, can adorn the majority of city gardens. The pseudo-stems that make up its base act as an early warning sign of cold weather on the plant. However, should these stems perish, fear not, as consistent mulching will coax new shoots from the frost resistant rhizome and the plant will rapidly return to its full potential. It is, however, advisable to protect the stems in winter by placing a drainpipe over them and packing out with straw. In the UK it will probably never bear edible fruit, however it could nevertheless easily exceed heights of 4 metres or more. Obviously hardiness will increase with age, but it is advisable to plant deeply - between 30 and 45 centimetres of mulch should be afforded. The light requirements vary depending on your desired rate of growth as the species will do well  both in full sun or semi- shade. Of course, the trick is in balancing the level of exposure, so that the delicate leaves will not fall victim to wind damage, whilst allowing enough clearance for sunlight. Rather an androgynous species, it will produce male and female flowers on the same cluster in the springtime, with thick white pods and surrounding petals.

5. Fatsia japonica, native, as the name suggests, to southern Japan, is a large, evergreen shrub with glossy green leaves and creamy, candelabra-like flowers in the autumn. With such an array of taller palms and ferns available to us, we should not neglect the lower storeys of our urban oasis in order to maintain a balanced décor. This evergreen’s growth is shrubby and generally limited to 3-4 metres and so is a perfect filler to the undergrowth level of the garden as they require a cool, humid environment for optimum growth. Intense sunlight will be detrimental to this species, thus it will fit perfectly in any garden with a well established canopy and semi moist soil. Growth supplements or fertiliser should be provided bi-weekly in the spring/summer growing period to guarantee healthy flowering late in the autumn. These white umbel blooms, upon shedding, will be followed by small black fruit.

6. Phormium, or New Zealand Flax, at first glance looks very similar to the Cordyline, except that the Phormium doesn’t form a trunk, but remains a fountain of colourful foliage at ground level with tall orange-red flower spikes appearing in summer.

It derives its name from its English discoverers, due to the fibrous nature of its leaves. The Latin derivative Phormium Tenax translates directly to ‘wickerwork tenacity’.

This species can sustain itself in sun or semi-shade and it is fairly resistant to frost although heavy snow can sometimes flatten them for a while. However, damage of this nature is generally centralised to the base of the central leaves, tender due to their recent emergence, and is merely aesthetic and new shoots soon form to replace them. They perform best in a moist soil, so if you’re a water gardener consider festooning the edges of your ponds and streams with this attractive addition. Should you want to propagate the species, the best method is to divide it. Healthy plants soon grow into a large clump as new fans of leaves develop around the older ones. These eventually develop their own roots and can easily be detached from the parent plant.

7. Passiflora caerulea, more commonly known as the Passion Flower is a South American resident popular among gardeners for its distinctive, exotic-looking blooms, its complicated elements being said to represent the Passion of Christ. The colourful corona was supposed to represent the crown of thorns. The ten sepals and petals represented the apostles (except Judas and Peter), the five anthers were the five wounds on Christ's body, and the three stigmas the nails. The leaves were supposed to be the spear that pierced his side, and the tendrils were the scourges that flayed his flesh. Whatever you believe, there is no doubting the exquisite beauty of this plant. Where supporting vegetation is available this vine can grow up to 20 metres high and will flower all summer long, knotting with the surrounding species and providing a subtle visual bridge between canopy and undergrowth. Passiflora differ from the majority of tropical species in that they thrive in arid soil. They are famous for littering the upper slopes of the Andes mountains and  prefer a composition of sharp gravel, medium loam and peat. It is best to plant at the end of the winter season as the most common threat to this species is root rot due to poor soil draining and frost damage. While the Passiflora can resist the short term onset of frost, long exposure will perish the roots. In May, cut back any frost-damaged shoots and keep new shoots tied into supports as the season progresses.

8. Campsis radicans, or the Trumpet Vine, is another mid level species worth considering in a tropical-style garden. In time it forms dense foliage into which other plants can amalgamate and wildlife integrate their nests. It is a creeping vine that in warm weather with cling to practically any surface and layer them fast and thick with tendrils, thus it is ideal for the concealment of arbours or drain pipes that might rob your 'banana republic' of its potential for escapism! When blooming, it will produce colourful trumpet shaped flowers, whose pollen is highly attractive to bird and insect life. When cultivating this vine, it is essential to prune regularly and mercilessly, the Trumpet Vine is infamous for its invasive nature so unless you want the authentic 'jungle' motif, then maintenance must be meticulous. Fortunately the hard work mostly ends there, as this species is especially hardy, surviving temperatures lower than -30 degrees in its North American habitats. It will thrive in sun or partial shade, in practically any soil, but just as the Passion Flower, remember to tie it in regularly.

9. Hedychium, a.k.a. Ginger, is a perennial genus native to Asia, sought after for their scent and colour. For this reason they are best positioned where their perfume can be appreciated. They grow from rhizomes and can get up to between 120cm and 180cm tall, so are perfect as mid level foliage plants, whilst also adding dots of exotic orange, red, white or yellow perfumed flowers to your palette. However, care should be taken that it doesn't overrun your garden, as it has developed a reputation as a weed in Brazilian climates, although of course it's virulence all depends on good sunlight. While the plant performs best in full sunlight, semi-shade will provide a sustainable environment. Whether potted or bed bound, the soil should be well mulched, well drained with rich compost. Once flowering has finished, the stems should be trimmed back and a good thick straw mulch applied. Alternatively, you can lift the rhizomes and store them indoors over winter.

10. Canna Lily is another plant for the mid level ornament to your canvas. It originates from Argentina and will also complement the colour scheme of any tropically themed garden, with its bold foliage that is often variegated or richly coloured, and its vibrant flowering. It needs 6-8 hours of sunlight daily throughout the summer months, though greater exposure threatens the leaves in windy conditions. Plant in well-drained soil and water regularly. As with Gingers, it is best to store the rhizomes indoors through winter as an insurance against frost damage.

And there you have it, a menu for thought when planning your tropical city garden. However, this list is only a starting point - there are countless other species who didn't make it here, including numerous varieties of the ultimate jungle plant, bamboo, that can all certainly survive and thrive in your garden.

By Josh Ellison

We are all familiar with vegetable flowers in the form of Cauliflower, Broccoli and Artichokes, but other, more ornamental flowers have been used in the cuisine of cultures all over the world for thousands of years. The Romans were keen on them, as were the ancient Chinese, and European medieval writings talk about feasts of venison cooked with marigolds and violets in salads.

Using peppery Nasturtium flowers in salads and sweet, perfumed rose petals in desserts is quite well known, but did you also know:

The young shoots of Hostas are good spinach alternative – Hostakopita is a Greek spinach pie made with hosta shoots and in Japan nori maki sushi is filled with parboiled hosta shoots marinated in soy sauce, sugar & salt. They can also be steamed like asparagus. Only use young shoots though as older leaves are too tough.

Hemerocallis – Day Lily – the flowers and buds have a sweet nutty flavour and look pretty in salads. (Don’t use other types of lilies though as they are poisonous!)

Violets & Pansies – the sweet, fragrant flowers can be used in salads, desserts and drinks and can be crystallised for cake decoration.

Sunflowers – we all know you can eat the seeds, but did you know you can also eat the buds & petals? The petals have a bitter-sweet taste and can be used in salads. The unopened buds can be steamed and have a flavour similar to artichokes.

Lilac – the flowers have a floral, slightly lemony flavour and can be used in salads.

Honeysuckle – the flowers have a sweet honey flavour and can be used as a garnish for salads and desserts. (Don’t eat the berries though as they are poisonous). 

Fuchsias – the vibrant flowers look great as a garnish.

Campanula – the narrow leaves make a sweet addition to salads.

Yucca – the white flowers have a thick and crunchy texture and a sweet flavour. Be careful of the spines at the tips of the leaves when picking though!

Typha – Reed Mace – the young shoots taste similar to water chestnuts and the rhizome can be eaten raw or cooked, or dried and ground into flour!

Even the humble Daisies and Dandelions in your lawn can be picked and used as garnishes.

N.B. It’s fun to use some of these more unusual edible garden plants, but do be careful you are sure what they are as so many of our common garden plants are in fact poisonous. If in doubt, leave it out!

Also, never use insecticides or chemicals on plants you may want to eat, and make sure you wash them carefully first – not least to get rid of the creepy-crawlies!

By Helen Ellison, Garden Designer

A few sunny days remind us that spring is here, although it is still pretty cold I must admit! However, there are a number of plants that brighten up the spring garden that I wouldn’t want to be without.

Floral & Hardy’s Top Ten Plants for March

1. AUBRETIA – 

A commonly grown plant I know, but when you see sheets of it in full flower cascading over a sunny wall, it really does impress. There are lilac, purple, pink and red varieties, just cut them back after flowering to stop them getting untidy. 

2. BERGENIA – 

A really useful, ground cover perennial with large, leathery evergreen leaves and spikes of pink or white, bell-shaped flowers. It will grow almost anywhere and is very easy to look after.

3. CAMELLIA – 

There are many different varieties ranging in colour from purest white to deepest red. This is a large shrub with wonderful glossy evergreen leaves that make a wonderful foil for other plants later on in the year. Grow these if you have acid soil and some shade. (You can test your soil by buying an inexpensive kit from your local garden centre).

4. ERYTHRONIUM - 

A slightly more unusual March flowering plant commonly known as the ‘Dog’s Tooth Violet’ – so named because of the shape of its tubers. This is a really stunning flower and is available in various colours ranging from white to lilac to yellow. Plant in a shady spot and enjoy.

5. FORSYTHIA – 

A fairly common, grow anywhere plant, but along with the daffodil, nothing epitomises the coming of spring better to me than the sheer exuberance of its stunning show of bright yellow flowers.

6. HELLEBORUS ORIENTALIS – 

An evergreen perennial ranging in colour from white to plum-purple. Plant them in shade in a raised bed or on a bank to take advantage of their large, slightly downward facing flowers.

7. MAGNOLIA STELLATA – 

A medium sized shrub with pretty star shaped flowers in white or pale pink. Don’t try to grow this plant if you have very chalky soil, or if your garden is very exposed, otherwise it’s an easy shrub to grow.

8. NARCISSUS - 

Nothing is more cheerful at this time of year than, in Wordsworth’s words – ‘a host of golden daffodils’. There are so many different varieties, ranging from the obvious bright yellow to whites, apricots, bi-colours and now even pinks. They are easy to grow – just make sure you plant them deep enough and that you leave the foliage on for at least six weeks after the flowers have faded, so that the goodness goes back into the bulb for next year.

9. PRIMULA VULGARIS – 

The common primrose – such a pretty wild flower with its pale yellow blooms, it has always been a cottage garden favourite. It will thrive best in partial shade.

10. PRUNUS - 

I couldn’t end this list without mentioning Cherry blossom. There are so many varieties flowering now, from those with delicate single blooms to those big, blousy, tutu-like confections. Some are scented, some have purple foliage, and some, of course, have the added advantage of producing fruit at the end of the season. All are very beautiful and guaranteed to raise the spirits after a long, cold winter.

March Tips and Advice

1. Prune summer-flowering shrubs such as Buddleia, deciduous Ceanothus, Lavatera, summer-flowering Spiraea and Caryopteris if you didn’t do it in November. The same goes for roses.

2. Winter flowering jasmine can be pruned now, by cutting back all side shoots which have flowered and any old branches.

3. Prune summer flowering Clematis by cutting back to pairs of plump buds about 60cms from the ground.

4. Cut back coloured stemmed Cornus (Dogwood) to a few inches above the ground to ensure colour next winter. The same goes for Fuchsias.

5. Trim over winter flowering Heathers once the flowers have faded to prevent the plants becoming leggy.

6. Move any shrubs and perennials that need relocating, making sure you dig around the rootball carefully.

7. Dead-head daffodils as they fade (but leave the foliage in place for at least six weeks).

8. The dead heads of hydrangeas can be removed now, taking care not to damage the new shoots beneath.

9. Generally tidy up planting beds and remove any emerging weeds.

10. Give the whole garden a feed with a fertiliser such as blood, fish and bonemeal.

11. Mulch acid-loving plants such as Rhododendrons, Azaleas, Pieris and Camellias with ericaceous compost.

12. Sow hardy annual flowers straight into prepared ground outside where they are to flower.

13. If you have a greenhouse you can also sow vegetables such as cucumbers, melons and tomatoes now. You can also start off Canna, Begonia and Dahlia tubers now by placing them in shallow trays of compost with just their tops showing.

14. Prick out any seeds you may have sown earlier, following the instructions on the packet.

15. Your lawn may be treated now for moss following the instructions on the packet and, on a dry frost-free day, mown on a high blade setting.

16. Finally – watch out for slugs around your precious emerging perennials and take the necessary action!

So......... plenty to do!

By Helen Ellison, Garden Designer

Corporate flora and the lumberjacks of fortune

Fellow horticulturists, congratulations are in order!. Caroline Spelman, the environmental secretary for the House of Commons last week released an apology to members of parliament. The government was considering the long lease of up 2,500 square km of British woodland to timber companies.

While the National Trust promised to protect the most sensitive areas of our forestry such as the New Forest and the Forest of Dean, this kind of affirmative corporate action begged the question - where will it end?

Due to its uniform growth pattern, the use of coniferous forest, whilst providing a viable source of timber, produces a year round canopy that drowns the lower canopies and flora in shade and we lose the scale of habitat necessary to support our native wildlife and flora.

In addition to its biological effect, the needles shed in autumn do not enrich the ground as broad-leaves do, but erode and sterilize it with unaccustomed acidity thus weakening its resistance to flood saturation. The broad-leafs are also indispensable to our own well being as they provide the majority of our local oxygen, each tree sustaining ten people for a year in the breath of a single season . In fact only 1.5% of England's countryside is now occupied by ancient, pre-established deciduous woodland. So, increasing the proliferation of coniferous woodland for timber would have posed a threat to all but a minority of the country's natural habitats, as well as to ourselves.

However, after an overwhelming response from the British public, including a petition of well over a quarter of a million signatures and the support of such luminaries as actress Dame Judi Dench and writer Bill Bryson , Spelman stated;

“I am sorry, we got this one wrong, but we have listened to people’s concerns...

I now want to move forward in step with the public.”

This break with precedent  hopefully prevents further compromise of the well being of the woodlands future generations may not have been able to enjoy, the concept of a woodland trail becoming less and less accessible to the general public as more fences followed.

The National trusts' approach to the matter has been a diplomatic one. They stated;

"If the government is determined to pursue the course of action it has outlined and the public wish us to, we are ready to play our part in giving them a secure future..."

This ambiguous promise was released in response to public outcry against the plans which, as it turned out, was very effective.

Spelman continued to validate public efforts in her statement:

“If there is one clear message from this experience, it is that people cherish their forests and woodlands and the benefits they bring. My first priority throughout this period of debate has been securing a sustainable future for our woodlands and forests.”

This planned transition had forced the National Trust to address their own role in a privately limited future, however recent legislation has removed all clauses from the public bodies bill, disallowing the sale of more than 15% of national woodland. 

In addition to this, an autonomous body will be established to further advise Ms. Spelman on future woodland ecological concerns, the Forestry Commission and the Public Forest Estate.

The catalyst of this reversal stemmed from Spelman's decision further enforced by 10 Downing Street's support to 'shelve' the consultation, undoubtedly under the immense weight of public opinion.

“...it is quite clear from the early responses to the consultation that the public and many honourable members are not happy with the proposals we set out.”

So, chalk it up, those green fingered, a victory won for Britain's lungs. And it was won by you, an example of how crucial public opinion is to the safety of our ecological identity.

By Josh Ellison

S.O.D, or Sudden Oak Death, caused by the fungus Phytophthora, filled some headlines recently due to the mass de-forestation it has triggered. In an effort to contain the disease Somerset council is also having to fell thousands of it's native Larch in the Quantock hills. The disease afflicts the common Oak with bleeding cankers and also destroys the trunk foundations of Magnolia and Rhododendron alike.

Since 1848 Larch has been recognised for its potential as a construction material, originally in early housing and ship building, but the onset of Sudden Oak Death has wreaked devastation on the commercial Larch lumber industry. And Somerset is only the most local example. 

The disease has already had similar effects in the western United States, particularly on the Oak population of California and Oregon.

However, the counter-measures in place may have more dire ramifications than anticipated. In recent studies de-forestation has been attributed to 2 of the 9 tipping points of global warming and while this was accounted for by a mandatory reduction in industrialised CO2 emissions, it's effects could become exacerbated again by the loss of our woodland which is a natural purifier.

The disease’s durability and fast growing prevalence across Northern Europe has intensified ecological concerns.

One preventative measure proving effective in California and Oregon was the reduction of the Mediterranean species Bay Laurel which was a significant contributor to the spread of the disease.

Also, Agri-fos fungicide has been approved by the Californian Department of Pesticide Regulation as a chemical treatment for the disease. However, this is not an expedient, nor permanent solution, as the compound requires four to six weeks to take effect and must be applied annually after the initial introduction. On top of that, the treatment must be manufactured pre-emptively while the organism is healthy and thus acts as an inoculation rather than a vaccine. Due to the erratic spread pattern of the disease, this restricts it to a containment method.

The domestic consequences of this disease are grave indeed, as it also affects many other popular species such as Honeysuckle, Maple, Camellia, Viburnum, Pieris and Chestnut that have all become institutions of British horticulture. In all, up to 40 different species have been found to be susceptible.

So, what can we, as individuals do?

We must all be vigilant and check our gardens regularly for this, and any other obvious disease, and treat accordingly. Besides this, prevention is obviously better than cure, so keeping our garden plants and trees healthy by feeding and watering and keeping free of weeds and pests, will certainly build up their resistance to some diseases.

Due to its devastating effects, Sudden Oak Death is a notifiable disease, so if you suspect it, you should contact the Forestry Commission Pathology Diagnosis Service - Tel: 01420 23000. 

The symptoms to look out for include: dark red, amber or black sap oozing from the trunks of trees and in shrubs, the dying-back of shoots leading to a bent over, ‘crook’ effect and leaves turning brown, starting at the tips and midribs, and dying off, but remaining on the branches.

By Josh Ellison

The weather’s been pretty cold recently, but there are exciting signs of spring starting to appear in the garden. Bulbs are starting to poke through the soil and buds are appearing on shrubs and trees – the promise of the growing season to come.

Floral & Hardy’s Top Ten Plants for February:

1. Anemone ‘de Caen’ – 

Poppy-flowered Anemone – florists’ favourites, these brightly-coloured, bowl-shaped flowers come in white, blue, pink, red or lavender. Staggering the planting of the tubers at different times will prolong the flowering season over many months. Give them a warm, sheltered spot for best results.

2. Chimonanthus praecox – 

Winter Sweet – a large deciduous shrub with, as the name suggests, sweetly fragrant, yellow flowers in winter. Cut some shoots to take indoors to enjoy the spicy aroma.

3. Cupressus sempervirens – 

Pencil Cypress – although reminiscent of Tuscan hillside vistas, these stately conifers can also provide a useful ‘punctuation mark’ in any large border, or as bold statements on their own.

4. Daphne bholua – 

A large evergreen with dark green foliage and intensely fragrant, purplish-pink flowers. Plant it near to entrances and windows to take advantage of the perfume.

5. Eranthis – 

Winter Aconite – planted in a drift under deciduous trees these cheerful little tubers can provide a carpet of yellow flowers to brighten up a bare garden on a dull February day.

6. Garrya elliptica – 

Silk Tassel Bush – an evergreen wall shrub with dark green, crinkled leathery leaves and fascinating long catkin-like silvery flowers. It will grow in shady areas, but like most plants, the flowering display will be improved in sun.

7. Hepatica nobilis – 

A rockery plant with the advantage that it flowers before most others, with blue starry flowers on short stalks above tri-lobed leaves.  . Another advantage is that, unlike many other rockery plants, it will grow in partial shade as well as sun.

8. Leucojum vernum – 

Snowflake – this one looks very much like a Snowdrop, the difference being that it is taller and each petal has a green tip. It’s easy to grow but dislikes disturbance, so plant the bulbs and then leave them alone!

9. Mahonia media ‘Charity’ – 

Another bright yellow flower, scented this time - and very attractive to Blue Tits and bees I find! The evergreen holly-like leaves also make this an attractive large shrub for the rest of the year.

10. Picea pungens ‘Koster’ – 

A smallish, conical tree, slowly growing to only about seven or eight metres, this conifer has intensely silvery- blue foliage and a very pleasing form. It looks particularly good with pink flowering shrubs, or surrounded by winter flowering heathers.

February Tips and Advice

1. The preparation for the gardening year ahead can begin now with the digging over of established flower beds – provided the ground is not frozen or waterlogged! Get rid of all the perennial weeds and sprinkle on a general fertiliser.

2. Try to keep your lawn free of worm casts by brushing off gently – you don’t want to tread them in as this will cause problems with bare patches and moss later.

3. Many perennial and annual seeds can be sown now, just follow the instructions on the packet.  This is such a cheap way of stocking your garden and you may even have some plants left over that you can give to friends!

4. New Rose bushes can be planted out from the middle of the month. Prepare the soil by adding some bonemeal fertiliser and then carefully plant so that the swelling just above the roots (the graft) is just below soil level. Spread the roots out carefully and tread the soil gently around them so that there are no air pockets and the roots won’t dry out.

5. Climbing Roses (not ramblers) can be pruned this month. Keep five to seven strong new stems and cut out the older wood. Also cut back any side shoots to about three buds from their base to encourage flowering. Then tie everything in to the support to prevent wind damage later.

6. This is also the month for pruning some Clematis – not the spring flowering ones like ‘alpina’ or ‘montana’, but those that flower later, from May onwards. You will need to check which ‘group’ your Clematis is in (it will usually say on the label). Group 2 Clematis flower from May to July and any weak or dead stems should be cut out and the remainder back by about 30cms, to just above a pair of plump buds. Group 3 Clematis flower from July – October and should be cut back harder – to about 75cms from the ground.

7. If you didn’t prune your Buddleia in the autumn, now’s the time to do it – it will put on a lot of growth during the year, so, if you don’t want all the flowers so high up you can’t really see them, cut it back hard – it’s very hard to kill a Buddleia!

8. If you need any large trees cutting back, get it done before the end of the month, before the sap starts to rise and swelling buds can be damaged by falling branches. Always get a professional tree surgeon to do this – to prevent damage to the tree and to yourself!

9. Bare-rooted hedges can be planted this month (provided the soil is not frozen or too wet) – a much cheaper option than containerised.

10. If you’ve got any Heathers that have become straggly and a bit unsightly – fear not, you can revitalise them by digging up now and replanting in a hole big enough to take the whole plant with just the tips left showing. After a year all the tips will have rooted, enabling you to dig them up and replant as lots of separate little plants! Another great way to save money!

By Helen Ellison, Garden Designer

Don’t forget when you’re out at the January sales to include a visit to the garden centre, as now is the time to purchase seeds (if you haven’t done so already). That way you’ll be ready next month to sow indoors half-hardy annuals to stock your garden for the coming year and at a fraction of the cost of buying full-grown plants at the nursery.

Here are ten that I’ve found to be easy to grow, that will give you colour throughout the summer months, and some of which are slightly more unusual than the ones you generally find at the garden centre:

1. Amaranthus – 

Love Lies Bleeding – an unusual plant with spectacular, 45cm long tassels of deep purple-red blooms on a bushy plant. The season of interest is continued into the autumn when the leaves and stems turn an attractive bronzy-red.

2. Cleome – 

Spider Flower – lending a slightly exotic look to the border, this bushy plant bears scented, pink and white flowers with long stamens that give the plant its common name.

3. Cosmos – 

Cosmea – a popular plant, that looks at home in any scheme traditional or contemporary, with ferny foliage and white, pink or red flowers.

4. Eccremocarpus scaber – 

Chilean Glory Flower – a climber with a profusion of tubular, red, orange or yellow flowers, it will often survive the winter if you live in a mild area and can self-seed very easily.

5. Heliotropium – 

Heliotrope – a popular plant in Victorian gardens, but now somewhat neglected, which is a shame as it has large heads of very fragrant, purple flowers and makes an excellent foil for showy yellow flowers, such as marigolds.

6. Ipomoea – 

Morning Glory – another climber I wouldn’t be without, this one has large heart-shaped leaves and simply stunning, blue, trumpet-shaped flowers.

7. Nicotiana – 

Tobacco Plant – one of my Dad’s favourites and I always think of him when I see them, or should I say smell them –as their long, trumpet-like flowers in colours ranging from white through to deepest purple are intensely fragrant in the evening air. 

8. Tagetes – 

French Marigold – a popular choice for formal bedding schemes, the bright yellow and orange flowers make a bold statement in any border.

9. Thunbergia -  

Black-eyed Susan – not really a climber although it is most often grown as such, but it will need a trellis or wires for support. Yellow flowers with a distinctive black ‘eye’ give it its common name, although there are many varieties available now in other colours.

10. Tropaeolum - 

Nasturtium – double-easy to grow, this annual comes in many varieties – some climbing, some trailing and some dwarfs to grow as bedding. They all have brightly coloured flowers and, as a bonus, they’re edible too, adding a peppery flavour to summer salads.

All of the above are quite easy to grow if you follow the instructions on the packet, but just remember you will need a bit of space in which to propagate them and grow them on. A heated greenhouse is of course ideal, but if you haven’t got that, a large window sill is sufficient to grow at least a couple of trays.

To start off you will need:

                                    > some seed trays

                                    > some seed compost

                                    > a watering can with a very fine rose (so that you don’t wash the seeds away!)

If you buy trays without lids, you will also need some cling film to cover them with (to keep the moisture in while the seeds are germinating).

Once the seeds have germinated and grown a little bit you will need some small pots or a tray with separate cells into which the little plants can be transferred to grow on.

Remember these are all Half-Hardy Annuals so don’t be tempted to plant your little darlings outside until all risk of frost has passed or all your work will have been for nothing!

Next month I will be talking about Hardy Annuals, which are even easier as they can be sown outside directly where they are to flower.

By Helen Ellison

Happy New Year to you all from everyone at Floral & Hardy!

I think everyone in the country has had some pretty severe weather in the last few weeks, but don’t worry, the garden will come through it - that’s nature for you!

We can soon look forward to longer days and the growing season ahead, however, in the meantime many of the plants mentioned in my December blog will still be in flower now and many others will also provide interest through their bark, their foliage, or their structural form.

Floral & Hardy’s Top Ten Plants for January:

1. Asplenium scolopendrium  - 

Hart’s Tongue Fern – an evergreen fern with distinctive glossy green, wavy-edged, strap-like leaves – easy to grow even in dry shade.

2. Buxus sempervirens – 

Box – this is a small leaved evergreen that can easily be clipped into living sculptures, and we have probably all seen topiary varying from peacocks to dinosaurs to trains at one stately home or another, but there is no reason why a more modest spiral or sphere or two should not grace our own, more modest plots. Whatever shape you choose, topiary is particularly effective as a focal point in the winter garden. 

3. Cornus alba - 

Dogwood – a medium sized shrub whose vivid red, orange, yellow or purple stems in winter really stand out amongst other planting. In summer it has green leaves, sometimes margined with white or cream and white flowers in June followed by white tinged blue berries in autumn. 

4. Corylus avellana ‘Contorta’ – 

Contorted Hazel – a large shrub or small tree with pale yellow catkins in February and rounded green leaves turning yellow in autumn. But it is in winter, when its curious twisted shoots are more visible, that it really comes into its own. 

5. Euonymus fortunei ‘Blondy’ – 

Spindle - one of a range of varieties of useful evergreen shrubs, this one is bushy and low-growing with really striking dark green foliage splashed with vibrant yellow – guaranteed to brighten up the dullest winter day!

6. Jasminum nudiflorum – 

Winter Jasmine – although not fragranced like its summer flowering cousin, the cheerfulness of this spreading shrub’s brilliant yellow flowers more than makes up for this, making it a justifiable favourite in many gardens.

7. Juniperus scopulorum ‘Blue Arrow’ – 

Blue Arrow Juniper - an evergreen conifer with vivid blue-grey foliage whose extremely narrow columnar habit makes an excellent punctuation mark in the border at all times of year.

8. Phormium – 

New Zealand Flax – a bold, structural plant with sword-shaped, evergreen leaves, often striped in colours varying from green and gold to pink and purple. A useful plant, at home both in contemporary and traditional schemes.

9. Phyllostachys nigra – 

Black Bamboo - a non-invasive bamboo with conspicuous black stems that really stand out in a contemporary scheme, particularly if grown against white walls – and you get the lovely, soothing sound when breezes ruffle through the leaves in summer.

10. Rubus thibetanus – 

Ghost Bramble – this large, open shrub gets its common name from its wonderful arching, white, prickly winter stems looking good in association with many other plants, particularly the Cornus above. In summer it has ferny, grey-green leaves with white undersides and pink flowers. 

January Tips and Advice

1. If the ground’s not too hard or wet, borders can still be dug over this month in preparation for spring planting. Clay soils can be improved by adding plenty of grit, old potting compost if you have it, or well-rotted leaf mould.

2. If possible, try to stay off existing lawns when it’s frosty.

3. New turf can be laid as long as the ground isn’t frosty.

4. Carefully brush off  worm casts from existing lawns to prevent bare patches later on.

5. Bare rooted trees and hedging can still be planted this month.

6. Check on tree ties to make sure they’re secure against winter winds.

7. If you get more snow, make sure you carefully brush it off shrubs and hedges to prevent damage.

8. If you’ve got a greenhouse, make sure you ventilate it whenever possible and water plants only when absolutely necessary to prevent rotting.

9. If you’ve left a pump submerged in a water feature, continue to run it for a few minutes at a time every week or two. Remember to maintain an ice-free patch in ponds both to protect the fish if you have them, and to prevent cracking in the pond liner.

10. Finally, the exciting task of sowing seeds indoors can start this month. Many shrubs, climbers, perennials, annuals and vegetables can be sown now – just follow the instructions on the packet and stock your garden for a fraction of the cost of buying plants fully grown from the garden centre! Just remember though you will need somewhere protected to keep the little chaps until all risk of frost has passed.

By Helen Ellison

In recent years many large trees have been lost to us as local councils worried about claims arising from injuries caused by falling branches and damage to property. In 2007, a London Assembly called the loss of 40,000 trees in the capital over a five-year period a "chainsaw massacre"!

But now the government has realised that trees in urban areas have an important role to play in people’s sense of well-being and it has therefore launched a campaign to plant one million trees in English urban areas over the next four years.

Trees not only help us to feel calmer – green is well-known to be most restful colour – but they also have a positive effect on our health, a Dutch study showing that for every 10% extra green space provided in a city, health complaints were postponed by five years!

Aside from this personal advantage, the planet is also benefitted by the cooling effect of trees in our cities and the fact that they provide wildlife corridors through our concrete jungles for many diverse bird and insect species.

On a purely monetary level, a property on an attractive, tree-lined street will command a much higher value than one in a road filled with bare, concreted over driveways and no greenery – up to 15% higher according to some studies.

All things considered, according to the then environment secretary, Caroline Spelman earlier this year, in some city areas each tree could be worth as much as £78,000!

Money might not grow on trees, but the government has finally recognised that they certainly do have a significant value to us all.

The question then is – why has it taken them so long?

By Helen Ellison

Merry Christmas!

 from Floral & Hardy

If you’ve got Gardeners to buy for, or if you’d like to give your loved ones some ideas on what to buy for you, Floral & Hardy have compiled a list of practical yet original gadgets that we’ve found on the market, especially with Gardeners in mind.

In the build up to winter we have enjoyed the golden season of Autumn, made so by the falling leaves which, when dry and crisp, provide a natural ornament to our streets and lawns, they tend to make them brown and dirty once degraded by rain and time. Usually you have gardener’s gloves and bin bags with which to clear these mulch graveyards, unless you resort to some noisy, industrial monstrosity which, by name, could only exacerbate the problem by 'blowing' the leaves all over the place!

The ‘Draper Heavy Duty Leaf Collectors’, are aesthetically somewhere between snow shoes and flippers but worn on the hands. These light but durable trays scoop the leafy wastes more efficiently than the largest, most meticulous human hand. They are available at online retailers from only £4.30 a pair.

Though it may seem a little premature to be considering next summer sitting under a parasol, with the onset of Christmas and an increasing awareness of our impact on the climate, it's prime time for solar powered garden gadgets. This parasol’s lighting requires a daily charge for nightly hospitality and the more deluxe models include built in radios and MP3 ports starting from £124

On the subject of solar power, the general ambience of a garden owes a lot to its lights, however increasing utilities costs may discourage your investment in a myriad of lanterns and spotlights and of an electrician’s services. The contemporary-looking bubble light from ‘Eco Gadgets’ should be right up your street, with the solar battery housed within the device’s body, it ensures longevity with a lifetime promise of 100,000 hours! Once it is charged, the battery will last for eight hours and the light activates automatically at dusk thanks to its integrated sensors. This is a free standing device with a half meter stake that will allow you flexibility of where to place it. £16.39 inc. del.

The flaws of the common lawnmower are a frequent complaint among the green-fingered. The spinning blades can rust from lawn dew or jam with mud and debris or worse still, deflect this debris at the gardener. You'll have noticed that the previous entries have been modestly priced, whereas the ‘Husqvarna Automower’ is something of a luxury addition to your tool shed. This robotic mower will charge at a docking station for 40 minutes to mow for a further 40 minutes on a pre-charted course over your lawn. The manufacturers can't claim it's fully solar powered, however in full sunlight, the mower will perform for up to 50% longer than it's charge making its work rate suitable for up to half an acre of land. Unfortunately with a retail price of £1000 upwards, you’ll have to like someone very much to give this as a gift!

Now a return to economic reality! While the slim trowel is an indispensably versatile tool and can be used for bulb planting, it can make knees, backs and wrists ache after time. The immediate argument concerning devices for planting bulbs is short-handled models versus long-handled. Fortunately we have a nominee from each camp for your consideration. 

First the short handles - the Wolf Garten short planter is heavier than most of its competitors however this guarantees added durability and ‘oomph’ when cutting through tougher turfs. A squeeze of the handle releases the soil back over the top of the bulbs and it’s also brightly multi-coloured, making it nigh-on impossible to lose. (How many times have you put a tool down in the border never to find it again?!) 

Just as good and with the advantage of not having to kneel down, is the Draper long handled planter, standing at just under a metre tall and extremely lightweight, it's easy to flip and disperse clinging soil. It also has a looped handle for easy storage. Both of these will cost £5.99 and £7.50 respectively from their relevant retailers. So treat yourself or another ‘greeny’ in your house this winter and make life a bit easier.

As a somewhat more frivolous purchase you might consider some luxury housing for birds, in which case Firebox can provide. There is no end to the different novelty bird boxes available, however the vast majority of these are too generic for something as personal as a Christmas present. So Firebox have designed an ironic twist on the conventional bird house, modelled after a Thatcher-esque caravan, it lends a rustic and traditional feel to your avian needs - £14.99. 

For those among you suffering from arachnophobia, we have the Spider Catcher Vacuum from Lakeland, a battery powered hoover designed specifically to rid your garden and home of creepy-crawlies from a comfortable distance. Simply aim and suck. Doubling as an anti-air defence it will also catch wasps and flies in mid flight, the perfect weapon against mosquitoes on those summer nights to come. Available from only £9.99 from Lakeland.

On the subject of vacuums, next on our list is the Pond Vac. The hose attachment deposits pond water in an eco-friendly and re-usable sack which then filters through the lining leaving any debris behind. It comes with an attachable brush used to loosen the matted dirt at the pool’s bed - £24.99. 

Finally we must consider the younger gardeners among our flocks. What's to occupy them while we attend to our gardens? Simply, a garden of their own! From just £19.99 spottygreenfrog.co.uk supply a micro-cosmic bio-dome capable of housing a variety of tropical species including a guaranteed-to-grow seed. Teach your children the value of growing things whilst regaling them with the more mysterious ecology of our planet. 

With snow heavy on the ground at the moment, do you think we'll have a White Christmas? Whatever the weather, enjoy the festive season.

By Josh

Well, winter seems to have hit with a vengeance! Heavy frosts and, in some places snow, will have finished off any annuals and tender plants, but there are still plants in the garden providing colour and interest.

Floral & Hardy’s Top Ten Plants for December are :

1. Acer griseum – 

Paper Bark Maple - a slow-growing tree, grown, as the name suggests, mainly for its attractive, cinnamon-coloured, peeling bark, but the deeply-cut leaves also provide a wonderful autumn display of reds and oranges.

2. Arbutus unedo – 

If you want something out of the ordinary, this large evergreen is a bit of fun, with edible strawberry-like fruits late autumn to winter, at the same time as the white, pendant flowers.

3. Clematis cirrhosa ‘Freckles’ – 

An evergreen climber with attractive foliage and masses of creamy bell-shaped flowers spotted with red from late autumn to early spring.

4. Gaultheria mucronata – 

One of the finest berrying shrubs with large, porcelain-like, white, pink, red or purple fruits throughout the winter. Only thing is, you need acid soil and both sexes of the plant for this shrub to flourish, it’s a bit prickly though so be careful when handling.

5. Hamamelis mollis – 

Witch Hazel - a really valuable large shrub or small tree, with oval bright green leaves with orange, yellow and red autumn colours and fragrant orange, red or yellow flowers on the bare branches. Cut some for indoors, or plant near to entrances to enjoy the sweet scent as you pass by. 

6. Helleborus niger – 

Christmas Rose – an evergreen perennial with large, saucer-like, pure white flowers with prominent yellow stamens. Plant in a shady spot.

7. Iris unguicularis – 

Pretty lavender blue, scented flowers in winter and evergreen grassy foliage. Quite low-growing though, so make sure you plant them somewhere you can appreciate the fragrance – maybe in a raised bed?

8. Nandina domestica ‘Firepower’ – 

Heavenly Bamboo – a hard-working little shrub with several seasons of interest, it flowers in July, but at this time of year bears scarlet fruits and its bamboo-like leaves turn brilliant fiery red. 

9. Sarcococca hookerana digyna – 

Christmas Box – a fairly tolerant, compact evergreen with glossy foliage and fragrant white flowers. Like the Hamamelis, plant near entrances and cut some branches for indoors to enjoy the perfume.

10. Skimmia japonica ‘Rubella’ – 

A useful compact evergreen shrub for shady areas and acid soil, just now the attractive red flower buds are waiting to burst into white flowers in the spring.

December Tips and Advice

1. If the ground’s not too hard, borders can still be dug over this month in preparation for spring planting. Clay soils can be improved by adding plenty of grit, old potting compost if you have it, or well-rotted leaf mould.

2. Try to stay off existing lawns when it’s frosty if possible.

3. New turf can be laid as long as the ground isn’t frosty.

4. Protect any tender shrubs with straw if you haven’t done so already.

5. Check on tree ties to make sure they’re secure against winter winds.

6. If you get snow, make sure you carefully brush it off shrubs and hedges to prevent damage.

7. If you’ve got a greenhouse, make sure you ventilate it whenever possible and water plants only when absolutely necessary to prevent rotting.

8. Check over all your tools and equipment before putting it away for winter - sharpen secateurs and knives, oil the pivots, thoroughly clean chemical sprayers, etc.

9. If you’ve left a pump submerged in a water feature, continue to run it for a few minutes at a time every week or two. Remember to maintain an ice-free patch in ponds both to protect the fish if you have them, and to prevent cracking in the pond liner.

10. Finally, long winter evenings can be passed by going through seed catalogues and deciding what you are going to grow next year – exciting!

By Helen Ellison

In this month’s editorial I'll be reviewing the features of some of Britain's most famous gardens hopefully providing you with some inspiration for your own.

The British people’s reputation for being gardeners stems from our public interest in the subject through television, film and literature and more is embodied by our horticultural achievements particularly in locales such as Alnwick in Northumberland. Located North of Newcastle, this site is one of the most spectacular examples of British horticultural excellence I've been fortunate enough to come across. First of all it's location is less than 40 miles from Northumberland national park, so both natural and tailored beauty can be appreciated in the same day trip. Secondly, and perhaps more importantly, the garden serves all appetites, regardless of age or preference and this is due to the segregation of genre that applies to its design. 

If you're partial to a water feature then check out the grand cascade, more waterfall than feature, it serves as a visual bridge between the lower and upper sections of the site. At it's head you'll find the Ornamental Garden- it alone is home to over 16,000 European species- adjacent to the recently opened Tai Haku Cherry Orchard. At the cascade’s base you'll find a plethora of different horticultural pleasures, if you're entertaining children then you may wish to explore Europe’s largest treehouse complete with souvenir shop, or the interactive water sculptures. 

Alternatively, if you wish to learn the potential dangers of the garden, or merely entertain a fascination in the macabre, then the poison garden lies to the immediate left of the falls and is inhabited by species such as Belladonna, Mandrake and Tobacco plant.

Coming south, Cambridge University botanical gardens provide stunning landscapes all year round, having sections of their site specially designated to cater to the aesthetic particulars of each season. Unfortunately I have limited space for review so I'll just cover the Autumn gardens. During the darkening days of the year, the focus is on trees like Metasequoia, a deciduous species that complements the sunfire yellow Maidenhair with it's copper red tint. However this shouldn't suggest the Autumn garden is absent of planting. Crocuses pepper the beds, purple among the sapphire backdrop of Aster x frikartii - plenty of inspiration here then.

Perhaps London's most innovative public garden is Kew gardens, an organic, transient art gallery among beautiful natural surroundings. The most famous aspect of the garden is the Palm House, an innovative green house that contains a microcosmic rainforest based on the eco-systems of South Africa and Madagascar. A marvel of Victorian engineering, this glass mansion was constructed between 1844 and 1848 to accommodate the array of exotic plant life that the Empire wished to preserve from its explorations, some of the species dating back to 1775! 

For an eagle eye view of the garden you should utilise the Xstrata Treetop Walkway, designed primarily to exhibit the tree life of Kew i.e. Sweet Chestnut, Lime and Oak. It's entrance is also decorated with tree sculptures marked with educational facts on the history and ecology of the green life you'll be about to witness. At the end of this path there also lies the subterranean Rhizotron, containing an installation explaining the symbiotic relationship between tree roots, the soil and the insects that inhabit it.

So if you're stuck for inspiration this Autumn then go and explore one of these or the hundred thousand other public spaces built for you, the 'green minded', and your family to enjoy.

By Josh Ellison

November has arrived and although it’s relatively mild here in the south, we have had some frosts already which have done for all the colourful annuals in the garden. However, there are still plenty of plants providing interest at this time of year.

Floral and Hardy’s Top Ten Plants for November:

1. Acer palmatum dissectum ‘Atropurpureum’ – 

Japanese Maple – a low-growing, mound-forming maple with deeply cut, rich purple foliage and, like many others of its kind,  fantastic scarlet autumn foliage.

2. Callicarpa bodinieri giraldii ‘Profusion’ – 

a medium-sized deciduous shrub with oval mid green leaves, often bronze when young, and tiny star-shaped lilac flowers in summer followed by striking clusters of polished purple fruits in autumn and winter. 

3. Erica darleyensis  - 

low-growing evergreen with very fine, needle-like foliage, often with yellow orange tints and masses of white, pink or mauve flowers. Height 45-60cms. They’ll flower for several months but are best grown in acid soil

4. Euonymus europaeus ‘Red Cascade’– 

a large unprepossessing shrub for most of the year, but in autumn it takes on fabulous autumn colours. The gorgeous, orange-pink, winged fruit which remain long after the leaves have fallen provide a vibrant display, so plant it where it can be seen and enjoyed from the house.

5. Ilex – 

Holly - familiar to us all, a large, dense evergreen with glossy green leaves, sometime variegated, tiny cream flowers in early summer followed by red berries. Cut some branches and bring them indoors for Christmas.

6. Iris foetidissima – 

rather unfetchingly called the ‘Stinking Iris’, this may put some people off, but this is a shame as it produces, not only pretty pale yellow flowers in early summer, but also very long-lasting orange-red berries from autumn to spring. It also has attractive, evergreen, strappy foliage and is a ‘grow anywhere type’ of plant. Apparently, when cut, the leaves smell of roast beef, although I have never noticed it!

7. Liriope muscari – 

Lilyturf – coming to the end of its season, but still a valuable source of late colour, this perennial has spikes of purple flowers above evergreen, grassy, dark green foliage. Height 20-25cms.

8. Miscanthus sinensis ‘Silberfeder’ – 

a spectacular, towering grass with plumes of silvery pink flowers in late summer. Leave them standing through the winter as they look fabulous in the low autumn light and with winter frosts.

9. Pyracantha  - 

large, prickly, evergreen wall shrub with cream flowers for the bees in June and red, orange or yellow berries for the birds in winter.

10. Viburnum bodnantense ‘Dawn’  - 

not for the small garden perhaps, this is a large erect deciduous shrub with many clusters of fragrant pink flowers in winter. Height 2-3ms. Plant near entrances to take advantage of the perfume, or cut some and bring it indoors.

Top Tip: Berrying plants provide a valuable source of food for birds, but if you don’t want the berries stripped from your plants choose the lighter coloured ones – the red ones tend to go first!

November Tips and Advice:

1. As the last of the leaves fall from the trees, have a good tidy up and clear them all away from the borders and from the lawn. Put them on the compost heap, if you’ve got one. If not you can bag them up in black sacks with a few holes in them – they’ll rot down over winter to produce a good leafy mulch for next year.

2. Give the lawn its final cut, but not if it’s frosty or wet.

3. If you live in a mild area you can prune your roses now (leave it until March if you don’t). Cut the stems back to an outward facing bud with a slanting cut so that rain doesn’t sit on the top, causing it to rot. Don’t worry too much about technique though, as roses are surprisingly tolerant.

4. If you have ordered bare-rooted roses, they’ll be arriving shortly - get them unpacked and planted in well-prepared ground as soon as you can so that they don’t dry out.

5. It’s not too late to plant deciduous trees, shrubs and climbers as the soil’s still warm enough for them to make some new root growth before winter, but evergreens should wait until spring. Bare-rooted trees and shrubs are particularly good value.

6. This is the latest month to plant Tulips.

7. If you haven’t already, move any tender plants you have in pots, such as Bananas, Tree Ferns, Cannas, Colocasias and Agapanthus, into the greenhouse to protect them from frost.

8. If your tender plants are growing in the ground, and you live in a milder area, you can protect them with straw in the crowns, or in the case of bananas, with tall terracotta chimney pots or drainpipes stuffed with straw.

9. Alternatively, once the foliage is blackened by frosts, you can lift Dahlia, Colocasia and Canna tubers, remove the foliage to within 5-8cms of the tuber and dry out, removing any parts that look as though they may have rotted. Store in boxes of dry bark chippings, crowns exposed, in a cool, dry, frost-free place.

10. If you’ve got a water feature it’s advisable, though not essential, to remove submersible pumps for the winter. Clean them and store in a dry place. If you leave them in though, just run the pump every week or so during the winter.

By Helen Ellison, Garden Designer

As our need to preserve the planet becomes more urgent, gardeners can get to grips with the ecological as well as the aesthetic value of their plots by catering to the needs of their local wildlife. The benefits of an eco friendly garden include providing a refuge for many critically endangered insects and birds, whilst also offering a valuable opportunity for families to spend time together.

So get your children outside and get them to help you maintain your garden – you could save the planet and get some free ‘pets’ – what more could you ask for?

An ecosystem is a growth enterprise that requires diligence and ambition and it won't happen overnight - over the winter, however, is entirely plausible and now in the autumn is the ideal time for planting to see results next year.

Hedera helix is a good starting point. The common English ivy is easy to grow and quickly lays a durable green foundation to flat surfaces, covering unsightly new, orange fences and softening dominating outbuildings. The ivy is evergreen and will encourage and protect insects and a variety of plant that will bear fruit in the spring to entice blackbirds and thrushes. The tiny Jenny Wren also likes to nest among the ivy’s network of branching stems.

Natural hedgerows, as you would expect, house and sustain a myriad of different insects but you can replicate them, providing boundaries to your garden and an early incentive for autumn starlings.

There are many plants that you can include in your garden:

Hazel – if you’re lucky the squirrels will leave some nuts for you

Rosa rugosa or Japanese Rose is both hardy and gorgeous, giving pink-purple blooms in March with which to encourage early bumble bees, followed by large juicy hips for the birds

Hawthorn – pretty blossom in the spring followed by red berries

and Viburnum opulus – large flower heads in spring followed again by clusters of tasty red berries for the birds

In fact most plants that have berries will encourage birds into your garden, so if you don’t want to go completely naturalistic, you can grow much more ornamental specimens such as Callicarpa, which has unusual, polished-looking purple berries,

or the evergreen Pyracantha, which can have yellow, orange or red berries and which is also very prickly so can be good to protect boundaries.

Other forms of wildlife can be attracted in different ways. The shrub Hebe ‘Great Orme’, which is also evergreen, has attractive pink flowers and releases a scent in the evening attracting moths. Moths are also an important food source for bats, so you’re not just supporting the moth population, but the bats too. 

Verbena bonariensis does the same thing and both this and the Hebe are also a magnet to bees and butterflies during the day. 

There is the well-named ‘butterfly bush’ – Buddleia – very easy to grow and so nectar rich - on a warm summer’s day it will be covered in butterflies.

Bees also love Lavender, Ceanothus and Cistus – all very simple to look after and making colourful additions to any sunny garden.

The bumblebee is having a particularly hard time surviving at the moment so it is crucial that we do a our bit to ensure it’s survival.

The image that springs to mind when we think of the bee is honey, however they effectively act as farm staff without wages. Alfalfa, one of the world's essential cattle foods, is 90% dependant on the cross pollination by bees, not to mention many of our domestic produce like soft fruits, runner beans, carrots, cabbages and cauliflower. So, without bees, do we have no food?

If you have children, they too can help you plant and maintain all these shrubs, but to cope with their eagerness to see fast results, what about something they can see grow from seed to flower in a season?

Nasturtiums make a colourful and low maintenance addition to any temperate garden, they are self sustaining and their petals make a spicy addition to summer salads. They grow really quickly from seed which are big enough for children to handle easily. The Cabbage White Butterfly loves to lay its eggs on the undersides of the leaves and your children can watch the wriggly caterpillars hatch from them.

Another speedy grower is the Sunflower, shooting up to dizzy heights in a single season. Leave the smiley seedheads on after the flower has faded and provide a feast for the local birds.

The Poached Egg Flower (Limnanthes) is another easy annual for children to grow and it will be covered in bees all summer.

But don't worry, while you wait for your microlife to flourish there's plenty of DIY tactics to attract animals, birds and insects.

A bee box requires only a pair of two by fours cut to a rectangular frame and a dozen bamboo canes cut to half inch tubes. Cut another plank as backing to the box and tilt the tray backward to pack the space with tubes, discarding any that are malformed. It is best to use untreated timber and dot larger tubes among the smaller to accentuate the box’s aesthetic appeal. 

A nesting box for small birds is a similarly easy project, but make sure you mount it on the shady side of a tree or structure so that the chicks don’t get too hot!

At the weekend you can also arrange a log pile to house the local stag beetles – another endangered insect. It is best to place these some distance from seating and play areas as they can also attract the Devil's Coach Horse - a large beetle emitting a foul-smelling fluid from both ends when threatened and also capable of delivering a painful bite! The size and proximity of the individual logs is inconsequential so you can position them in whatever style suits your creative talents.

Hedgehogs will also be attracted to a log pile. Introducing earthworms to your garden will provide the hedgehogs with food, whilst also providing natural aeration of the soil. The hedgehogs also eat garden pests such as slugs and snails and so are very valuable guests to have – in fact it may be possible to adopt a family of hedgehogs – try contacting your local rescue centre for details. However, never feed hedgehogs with bread or milk – they can’t digest them and it will make them ill. The presence of hedgehogs will very likely attract foxes and thus the ecosystem will be complete, at the price of a little green work.

If all this is too much for you, how about just leaving a little bit of your garden to go wild – let the grass grow long and see how many native reptiles, such as the common lizard and the slow worm you can spot. Let stinging nettles grow and watch some of the 40 species of insects and butterflies they can support flock into your garden to set up home.

So, even the lazy gardener can support our endangered species!

Above all, get yourself and your children outside and interested. It will feed their curiosity and provide a fascination and love of all things green that will stay with them for the rest of their lives.

By Josh

Small Garden? ... Space at a premium?... 

Want to let your children have fun but then turn it into an area for adults?

Floral & Hardy are experts when it comes to designing gardens and we have recently designed a unique solution to making use of a small space.

We hid a trampoline underneath the lawn!

We haven’t seen anything like this and believe that we are the first to come up with this unique and innovative solution to the problem of limited garden space.

The cover is made from aluminium to keep it light. The inside of the cover is padded with foam so that should the children knock into it there is no danger of injury. Another safety feature we added was a tie-back to the fence so that the cover was secured when the trampoline was in use.

Clever eh?

Want one? Give us a call on 0845 603 2593 or complete our enquiry form and one of our friendly staff will contact you to discuss your unique requirements.

Autumn is officially here, but don’t despair, there’s still lots of plants to add interest to the garden this time of year.  

Floral & Hardy's top ten October flowering plants: 

1. Abelia grandiflora

This is a large evergreen shrub with dark green leaves and fragrant pink and white flowers with red bracts July – October. Height 120-150cms. Really useful if you’ve a large space to fill in the border.

2. Aster novi-belgii

‘Michaelmas Daisy’ – most of us may be familiar with this one, with its mass of pink, lavender or white daisy flowers September – October. It’ll grow almost anywhere as long as there’s a bit of sun.

3. Colchicum

‘Autumn Crocus’ – an unusual bulb with pink, wine glass-shaped flowers September – November, followed by large leaves in spring. Height 15-20cms. Looks good in woodland situations.

4. Fatsia japonica

A very large evergreen with bold, glossy, palmate leaves and creamy candelabra-like flowers October – November. Height 2 – 2.4ms. Especially good in a jungle/exotic scheme.

5. Fuschia

We’re all familiar with the varieties grown in hanging baskets, but there are also some hardy types forming bushy shrubs with pendant red, pink or white flowers through summer and early autumn.

6. Gentiana sino-ornata

Gentian – this is one for the rockery, growing only to about 15cms tall, with the truest of blue flowers September – November. The only snag – you must have an acid soil to grow it.

7. Hydrangea

Rounded, deciduous, shade loving shrubs with large mid-green leaves and large  ‘mop-head’ or ‘lace-cap’ flowers July – October. Height 1.2-1.5ms. Flowers are generally pink or blue, but interestingly will change colour according to the soil type – pink on alkaline soil, blue on acid.

8. Nerine bowdenii

Exotic looking pink flowers on naked stems September – October, followed by long leaves in spring. Height 45cms.Plant in a sunny position for best results.

9. Scabiosa caucasica

An old favourite with pretty, light blue, pin-cushion-like flowers and a long flowering season June – October. Height 75cms.

10. Schizostylis coccinea

An unusual, and rather attractive perennial with deep red flowers September – November. Height 60cms. It’s a bit fussy though and needs a well-drained, but moisture-retentive soil. If you’ve got that, it’s worth having a go.

October Tips and Advice:

1. Autumn planting of new perennials and shrubs has a distinct advantage over spring in that the soil is still reasonably warm and we can probably expect more rain at this time of year, so the plants get time to make fresh roots before winter.  

2. It’s also a good time to lift and divide your existing perennials for the same reason. 

3. Towards the end of the month you should start cutting back your perennials and clearing away any dead material – either for the compost heap, or, if you are allowed where you live, the bonfire. Don’t leave any debris lying around for the slugs to hide under! 

4. Sweet Peas can be sown in pots in the greenhouse or in a cold frame now. 

5. Right now is the ideal time for planting winter flowering heathers to give a colourful show through the season. 

6. Thinking about colour later on, it is also the time to plant spring-flowering bulbs such as Crocus, Narcissus and Tulips. 

7. Ever fancied having an alpine meadow in your garden? It’s really just a fancy name for growing small bulbs through grass! If you do, now’s the time to plant. All you have to do is select the area of lawn you want to dedicate and carefully lift strips of turf about 30cms wide by 90cms long and 5cms deep. Put them to one side and fork over the soil lightly before planting your chosen bulbs, about 5cms below the surface. Good candidates would be Snakeshead Fritillaries, Crocus, Dwarf Narcissus, Scilla and . Try to plant in random groups so that they look naturalistic, firm down the soil, replace the turf and water. Simple! 

8. If you have a pond it will be worth netting it to prevent falling leaves polluting the water – especially important if you have fish. 

9. If you have any green tomatoes left on your plants, harvest them now and store them in a cool, dark place to ripen gradually. 

10. Remove fallen leaves from your lawn regularly, set your lawnmower to its winter height and continue to mow as necessary. 

By Helen Ellison

We are proud to announce that Floral and Hardy's directors and designer, Paul and Helen Ellison, have attained a joint first place in this year’s HVA (Hayes Village Association) front garden competition. 

From an initial selection of approximately sixty potential gardens, twenty were selected by local adjudicator Shirley Savage, based on the official standards and measurements provided by the RHS.      

The criteria for said competition includes most prominently: “…the health of the garden's inhabitant plants, the artistic vision i.e. the site’s probable presentation at the time of fruition, the diligence of the site’s maintenance, general cultivation and the overall impression of the site”.         

When asked for comment Paul Ellison remarked, "We're more embarrassed than anything, after all gardening is our passion and pastime and of course our business, so we're receiving recognition for something we enjoy doing, as much as the HVA evidently enjoy observing."  

Well their embarrassment is perhaps a little misplaced, as the competition is a voluntary endeavour on behalf of the HVA. In former years the entire event has been run on the basis of residents entering themselves for the competition, but due to a lack of sufficient entrants, the HVA deemed it prudent to volunteer every garden within their horticultural jurisdiction with the assumption that the sites of the truly green fingered would speak for themselves.         

“Good shout HVA, you came up trumps this time”.         

On further reflection Paul gave this comment on the ethos of his and Helen's design approach, "Our theme is traditionally English, an informal riot of colour retained by box hedging..."         

Their passion is evident to hear, considering they find even the most arbitrary tasks are a gift to be relished:   "...even the task of dead-heading each morning is like unwrapping a Christmas present every day." 

The plants that Paul and Helen chose for their garden include Geranium ‘Buxton’s Variety’,   Verbena Bonariensis, Lavender ‘Hidcote’,   Hemerocallis ‘Burning Daylight’ and pink and white Cosmos.   

These are preceded in spring by Tulips, Alliums and Fritillaries. 

by Josh Ellison

Many of us have had a depressingly wet and chilly August, and while a bit of rain is good for the garden and does keep everything going a bit longer, I do feel sorry for all those families away in the UK in the school holidays. September seems to be starting well though, so let’s hope we’re going to get an Indian summer!

Floral and Hardy’s Top Ten Flowering Plants for September: 

1. Anemone japonica ‘Whirlwind’

A tallish plant for the middle of the border with double white flowers with a yellow centre, August – October. The great thing is, it will grow quite happily in partial shade.

2. Ceanothus ‘Autumnal Blue’

A colour that’s hard to find in the late summer border, sky-blue flowers make this shrub a valuable addition to the garden. It is evergreen and can grow quite tall as well as needing some protection, so grow it if you have the space and a sunny fence or wall to cover.

3. Clematis texenensis ‘Princess Diana’

A slightly unusual variety from North America, this climber has large, pendulous, tulip-shaped deep pink flowers over a long flowering season. Prune it in the early spring by cutting back to pairs of plump buds about 75cms above soil level.

4. Echinacea ‘Prairie Splendor’

A bold daisy-like, deep pink flower with a prominent central cone. Looks good with grasses in a ‘prairie’ scheme, as the name suggests, but just as good in a traditional cottage style garden.

5. Hibiscus syriacus ‘Blue Bird’

A deciduous shrub for a sunny border with an abundance of large, saucer-shaped, deep violet-blue flowers July – October. Don’t worry if this shrub seems late to wake up in the spring – the leaves don’t appear until well after most other things in the garden. 

6. Kniphofia caulescens

A tall, evergreen variety of the familiar ‘Red Hot Poker’ with stout stems and fat spikes of coral-red to yellow flowers. The grey-green leaves stay on the plant all year round. 

7. Liatris spicata ‘Kobold’

Another plant originating from America, this perennial has spikes of mauve, bottle-brush-like flowers, unusual in that, unlike most other plants, the flowers open from the top of the spike downwards, instead of the other way round. Looks good in a meadow planting scheme, as well as in the mixed border. We used it in our medal winning garden at Hampton Court.

8. Lobelia cardinalis ‘Queen Victoria’

A really striking upright perennial which would look fabulous in an exotic scheme, it has deep purple foliage contrasting dramatically with it’s spikes of bright red flowers.

9. Rudbeckia fulgida ‘Goldsturm’

Another easy-to-grow daisy-like flower, this time yellow, with a prominent dark centre September – October. A really cheerful addition to the late summer border.

10. Verbena bonariensis

A really pretty perennial for the back of the border with tall airy stems and small mauve flowers all summer long.

September Tip and Advice:  

1. Continue your routine jobs of dead-heading, weeding and generally tidying up. 

2. If you’re planning new borders for next year, now is a good time to start preparing by digging over to at least a depth of 50cms and adding plenty of good compost or manure. Then finalise your planting plan ready for planting out next month. 

3. Perennials that flowered earlier in the year can be lifted and divided now. This not only revitalises the plants, but also provides you with lots more plants for free! 

4. You can also sow hardy annuals now in the ground where they are to flower next year – you’ll have stronger plants and earlier flowering. These include Calendula (pot marigolds), Centaurea (cornflowers), Eschscholzia (californian poppy), Iberis (candytuft), Nigella (love-in-a-mist) and Papaver rhoeas (annual poppy). 

5. Cuttings can be taken now of any shrubs whose hardiness is questionable as an insurance against loss. They will need to be put in the greenhouse or in a cold frame for the winter.  

6. Root-balled evergreens may be planted towards the end of the month. These can be much cheaper than container-grown plants so it’s worth shopping around. 

7. Continue to check for pests and diseases, especially on roses, and treat as necessary. 

8. Rambling roses can be pruned now, ideally cutting out all the old wood and leaving strong new stems which you can tie back in to supports. 

9. If you have Wisteria, early this month, shorten the long, whippy shoots to about 30cms from their source.  

10. Finally, if you have a greenhouse, now is the time to think about getting it ready for winter – many of your plants will need to be brought inside before the end of the month. Give it a good clean up and ensure any heating equipment is working properly. 

By Helen Ellison, Garden Designer

Let me tell you a story, are you sitting comfortably? Then I’ll begin…  

Once upon a time a garden-loving people elected a man named John Major to run their country.  Now he and his friends had certain ideas as to how to run this island of ours and I’m not here to demonise their policies. It would be presumptuous to think that I knew any better, an argument against which many of the public, particularly the Sun newspapers dedicated readership, will rail with vague tidal persistence, but one of them included an impetus for residential growth within the metropolitan areas of the country. 

‘Fair play,’ we thought, ‘people need somewhere to live after all.’  Thus began the habit of selling our gardens and other green spaces to property developers on a piecemeal basis and, as many occupants of the South East in particular will have noticed over recent years, whole streets are having their tenants enticed or downright forced into selling sections of their gardens to make room for the next invasive avenue.  

Not changing suit from its predecessors, the Labour party under Mr. Blair and Mr. Brown continued churning the vulnerable green belt of the nation’s capital, until horticulturalists found themselves caught with their metaphoric pants down. The obvious question being: ‘Where does it end?’ In the three years between ‘94 and ‘97 the national average for recycled residences, being new homes built on former residential sites, rose by 11%, the South East getting the worst of this glorified flower stomping nearly a decade later, with nearly a third of new homes built on similar sites betwixt ‘06 and ’09.

It is only after a national census indicated how far this agenda had flourished, that we began to question whether it might be entirely benign. Many current residents-particularly in the South East, and if you want to get really specific -London, have found their green spaces disappearing. 

I hail from the Bromley area, and aside from a shyly muttered ‘Oh H.G. Wells was born there’, the thing we have going for us is our moniker as - ‘The Green borough’, our key fears then centred on the rapidity of this urban expansion.  However, and this being our primary concern, it is not necessarily public spaces being reallocated to serve the public, but specifically, you guessed it: Gardens. 

However, there is a ray of hope in all this terribly triumphant progression of ‘garden grabbing’, our knight all ivory armoured and shiny-like is named Greg Clark, the Coalition’s Communities Minister. His battle ground? ‘Brownfield’.  Now you won’t find a slain dragon in a polyester suit with a seductive grin at Brownfield, because I refer not to a place, but rather a planning demographic. It is the category home of derelict factories, abandoned housing and vacant lots. Old Greg fought for and won the independence of privately owned gardens from this catalogue of the forgotten, and dispersed some of this once absolute power among local councils so that they may protect their local green spaces more effectively.  

Fighting on the home front, local organisations and associations, perhaps perceived by many as the last bastions of the blue-rinse brigade, actually act as the last line of defence against over-development in the smaller outlying communities of London. In our own area the Hayes Village Association has been vehemently opposed to the over-development of local brown, and green, belt land with great success. The argument stated by the previous Labour government in response reads as an accusation of the coalition folk at number 10.  ‘Protecting the interests of millionaires’ they say, as opposed to those of the general public in desperate need of housing, but concerning the average property owner, the extinction of gardens holds much graver connotations. By trading off green space for the sake of practicality, we barter our own psychology too - without a private place to relax, one more esoteric than our rigid city-scape, the metropolis becomes oppressive and claustrophobic. This kind of sterile atmosphere has been frequently associated with depression, high blood pressure and subsequently unhealthy living. 

On a global scale we must consider the ramifications such over-development would have on our ecosystem, particularly in light of the looming threat of global warming. Without self-sustaining green areas, the pollution already rampant within London would also be further exacerbated.  Without accessible woodland, parks and fields, the wildlife of the cities would become refugees under the labourers boot. And, perhaps most importantly, children would have no mutual social environments outside of the corporate pens - Cinemas, shopping centres etc - that we have constructed, thus dampening their creativity and threatening the well-being of future generations.

by Josh Ellison

The traditional hedgerow is an institution of the British countryside and as well as its practical application, it serves as an indispensable anchor to our horticultural heritage. Since agricultural production grew to a mass scale in the middle ages, the hedgerow has been employed as a cost effective and eco-friendly land divider and it is due to this use that it became so prevalent in the ensuing centuries.  

Since integrating with the indigenous countryside, the hedgerow has played host to an eclectic variety of British wildlife, many of which are becoming increasingly rare; wildlife such as the Brown Hare, the Song Thrush, the Dormouse and the Stag Beetle, and wild flowers such as the Bluebell and Ragged Robin. 

When we talk about hedges, many of us might think of thriving garden boundary hedges, shrubbery mazes or ‘hortisculpture’ in show gardens. The rural hedgerow is rarely thought of as a species under threat, however, between 1940 and 1990 the common hedgerow underwent a dramatic decline predominantly due to human influence. This was through a combination of urbanisation, a rise in agricultural demand and its subsequent intensity, overgrazing by livestock, and improper maintenance.  

The other major contributor to the hedgerow’s decline is the dreaded Elm Bark Beetle – dum-de-dum-dum-dum! This is a carrier species of Dutch Elm disease which is named for its initial discovery in the Netherlands and its origins in East Asia. It is a fungal disease that destabilises or ‘flags’ the branch structure of the Elm species and, having originated from such a distance, the European Elm had no opportunity or necessity to develop a resistance to the disease.  

Another key contributor is the collective ignorance or contempt of the 1997 Hedgerow Regulations that demand a removal notice for any hedgerow exceeding thirty years of age. It is these older hedgerows that serve their function most effectively as their root structures have had generations to mature, thus making them a more durable specimen. The presence of ‘Ancient’ hedgerows i.e. a hedgerow predating the Enclosure Acts period (1720-1840), serves as a link to rural tradition, any ancient hedgerow symbolising a remnant of the past and acting as a reminder of their previous abundance and our obligation to restore them. 

In response to this rapid decline and in league with Floral & Hardy’s local BCS and BBAP (Bromley Countryside Service and Bromley Biodiversity Action Plant respectively), a counter reductive plan has been formulated which is designed to recruit and educate you in the means of hedgerow conservation.  In the meantime, what can we do individually to aid the restoration and thereby protect the myriad of flora and fauna that call hedgerows home? Well, the BBAP and DEFRA (Department of Environment, Food and Rural Affairs) websites suggest various conservation methods including: 

           • Continue hedge laying and coppicing of hedgerows where appropriate and traditionally undertaken. 

           • Take account of the well being of Hedgerows when planning home expansion or improvement. 

           • Replenish any gaps within hedges to improve their appearance and potential wildlife sustainability. 

Further information can be found at: 

www.bromleybiodiversity.co.uk 

www.defra.gov.uk 

by Josh Ellison

Wow, what a July we had! Luckily we’ve had a little bit of much needed rain in the last few days. I don’t know - we complain when it’s too hot, we complain when it rains ….!

Floral & Hardy's top ten flowering plants for August:

1. Aconitum 

Monkshood – an old cottage garden favourite, but just as good in a contemporary scheme, this perennial has attractive deeply cut foliage and curiously hooded blue or white flowers on tall spikes, from a distance resembling Delphiniums. Good if you have a shady spot to fill at the back of the border, but not recommended for gardens with children, as all parts of the plant are poisonous!

2. Centranthus

Valerian – another easy to grow cottage garden perennial, this time for a sunny position, with clusters of pink or white flowers over a very long flowering season.

3. Ceratostigma

Hardy Plumbago – a really good source of deep blue in the late summer border, this little shrub can die right back after a hard winter but will bounce back again in spring, producing new growth from the base. The leaves also give good red autumn colour.

4. Clematis viticella

This late flowering climber comes in many different varieties and colours, the main advantage over other types being their greater resistance to the dreaded clematis wilt! Easy to prune early in spring by cutting all the stems back to pairs of plump buds about 30cms from the ground.

5. Eryngium

 Sea Holly – as the name suggests, if you’re planning a beach themed garden, this one’s for you! It has silvery thistle-like leaves, blue stems and blue, thimble-shaped flower heads.

6. Helenium 

Sneezewort – an indispensible source of colour in the late summer borders, this plant has large daisy-like, yellow, orange or red flowers with a prominent central disc. Excellent for cutting for indoors.

7. Hydrangea

A very popular garden shrub, and justifiably so, as nothing gives more ‘bang for your buck’ at this time of year, with large heads of either mop-head or lace-cap type flowers of white, pink or blue. The colour of the flower gives a good indication of the soil-type in your garden by the way, as blue flowers indicate an acid soil and pink, an alkaline. So if your hydrangea has changed colour, that’s probably why!

8. Inula

Another daisy-like flower, but not very often seen in gardens, this tall perennial has more finely-rayed yellow flowers. Good in a slightly shaded position, unlike many other daisy types. 

9. Leycestria

Pheasant Berry – an unusual shrub and not much grown, although it’s very easy, which bears long, tassel-like, wine-coloured flowers followed by purple berries, much loved by birds.

10. Ligularia dentata

Don’t grow this one unless you have a moisture retentive soil and a little shade, but if you do it will be well worth it. Large heart-shaped  leaves, dramatically purple in some varieties, are topped by spreading heads of large orange or yellow daisies.

AUGUST TIPS AND ADVICE   

1. It’s easy at this time of year for everything to start looking a bit tired so continue with watering, feeding, weeding and dead-heading to keep everything looking good. 

2. As for previous months, top up ponds and water features as evaporation occurs – although with the rain we’ve been having we may not need to do that too often! 

3. Continue to check your roses (and other plants) for pests and diseases and treat promptly if you find anything. 

4. Check your climbers to make sure ties are not constricting growth or cutting in to stems. Do the same for young trees. 

5. If you are lucky enough to have tree ferns and we do get dry weather – don’t forget to spray their trunks and crowns so that they don’t dry out. 

6. If you have bearded Irises that need dividing because they are overcrowded, do it now, lifting the whole clump and pulling away the new rhizomes and discarding the old bits. Re-plant the new rhizomes firmly, leaving half exposed above ground level as they like to bake in the sun. Don’t forget to water though! 

7. Cuttings may still be taken now of Fuchsias and Pelargoniums to provide plants for next year. You can also take cuttings of Rosemary and Thyme. Try not to let other herbs flower and go to seed, by cutting and using regularly – fresh herbs are such a valuable source of vitamins, we should all try to grow at least a few. 

8. August is also a good time to prune fruit trees that have become overgrown and unproductive. It will open them up and encouraging fruiting next year. Espalier and fan-trained fruit trees should be pruned late in the month too.  

9. Autumn and winter flowering bulbs such as Crocus and Muscari can be planted now, as can Cyclamen. You may also like to look ahead at bulb and seed catalogues for next year! 

10. Give your lawn its final summer feed this month. Don’t do it any later as autumn applications will just encourage lush growth, leaving the grass more susceptible to disease in the cooler, wetter autumn weather.  

Finally, if you are going away on holiday, don’t forget to ask a kindly neighbour to water your pots and hanging baskets while you’re away. There’s nothing worse after all your hard work earlier in the year, than coming back to a load of dead plants! 

By Helen Ellison

 By Victoria Gill  Science reporter, BBC News  

Extract from a report on the BBC website: 

Plants are able to "remember" and "react" to information contained in light, according to researchers. 

Plants, scientists say, transmit information about light intensity and quality from leaf to leaf in a very similar way to our own nervous systems.  These "electro-chemical signals" are carried by cells that act as "nerves" of the plants. In their experiment, the scientists showed that light shone on to one leaf caused the whole plant to respond.  

And the response, which took the form of light-induced chemical reactions in the leaves, continued in the dark. This showed, they said, that the plant "remembered" the information encoded in light.  "We shone the light only on the bottom of the plant and we observed changes in the upper part," explained Professor Stanislaw Karpinski from the Warsaw University of Life Sciences in Poland, who led this research.

"And the changes proceeded when the light was off... This was a complete surprise."

For the full story, go to BBC News, Science and Environment article

A beautiful end to June weather-wise. 

Let’s hope it continues for the rest of the summer!  Summer bedding plants are at their best now, with flower after colourful flower, lasting all summer long if kept fed and watered.  Many shrubs, climbers and perennials are also in flower this month providing a garden full of delights to enjoy.  

Floral and Hardy’s Top Ten Flowering Plants for July: 

1. Alchemilla -

‘Lady’s Mantle’ - a real old cottage garden favourite perennial with frothy lime green flowers and attractive serrated edged leaves that capture rain and dew drops at their centre, like sparkling precious jewels.

2. Astilbe -

If you have damp soil and some shade, this is one for you. Large feathery plumes of white, pink or red flowers appear above attractive, deeply cut foliage, bronzy when young.

3. Brugmansia -

Datura – spectacular pendulous, trumpet-like flowers in various colours and with an intoxicating (literally!) fragrance in the evening. This will really lend an exotic feel to the garden, but you really need a greenhouse or somewhere you can bring the plants inside in winter as they are not frost tolerant. 

4. Lavandula  – 

What summer garden would be complete without Lavander, with its aromatic foliage and perfumed flowers, so beloved by bees. Available not only in the familiar purple, but also in white and pink.

5. Lonicera – 

Honeysuckle – another old favourite with it’s spidery yellow flowers and intense fragrance.

6. Passiflora caerulea– 

Passion Flower – an exotic looking climber with complicated pruple, blue and white flowers followed by edible orange fruits – the red seeds are terrific with desserts or, better still, in champagne!

7. Penstemon – 

A long-flowering perennial with glossy foliage and attractive tubular flowers in various colours clustered on erect spikes all summer long. Dead-head frequently to prolong flowering.

8. Rosa – 

The quintessential English garden plant, in ground-cover, shrub and climber form – there’s always a place for at least one in your garden. Many people are put off growing roses as they sometimes have a reputation for being difficult, but pick a variety that’s disease resistant and don’t worry too much about pruning regimes and you’ll be fine.

9. Scabiosa – 

Scabious – doesn’t sound a very attractive name for what is really pretty little cottage garden perennial. The frilly-edged, pincushion-like flowers are borne over a long flowering season and come in blue or white.

10. Trachelospermum – 

Evergreen Jasmine – this has all the fragrance of Jasminum officinale, but has a much better appearance in winter, being evergreen.

JULY TIPS AND ADVICE  

1. Cut down faded Delphiniums, Lupins and Oriental Poppies to about 10-15cms from the ground to encourage new growth and a possible second flush of flowers later on. 

2. Dead-head Day Lilies and other perennials and annuals to prolong flowering. 

3. Dead-head roses and continue to feed and check for any signs of disease. 

4. Lawns can be mown less frequently in dry weather and with the blades set higher too. 

5. New hedges can still be planted this month as long as you water them well. Established hedges such as Box, Hornbeam, Holly and Laurel can all be pruned now. 

6. If you’re lucky enough to have an alpine meadow with spring-flowering bulbs, you can safely cut it now as the bulbs will be dormant now. (obviously this does not apply if yours is a summer flowering meadow!) 

7. If you have a greenhouse do not forget to shade and ventilate, otherwise your plants will cook! 

8. If you have a pond with fish and you find them gulping air at the surface during hot weather, you need aerate the water, either by installing a small fountain, or by trickling some water on to the surface with a hose. 

9. Fruits and veg can be harvested as they ripen – yum! 

10. Finally – water, water, water! 

By Helen Ellison

Hampton Court Palace Flower Show is the world’s largest annual flower show - celebrating its 20th anniversary in 2010. 

It runs from 6 - 11 July and tickets are on sale now from the RHS website or you can call 0844 338 7524.

Our first garden at Hampton Court won us a medal of which we are very proud! We created a garden that was sustainable and used recycled materials. We not only took the materials into account but we were careful to choose items that had been made without harming the environment - recycled glass, recycled car seatbelts, recycled estate agent boards. Your can see the details in our portfolio at Sustainability Can be Sexy

Flaming June? Not yet, but we can hope!  We have been promised a barbecue summer, but isn’t that what they said last year?  Whatever the weather, there’s plenty to enjoy in the garden.

Floral & Hardy’s Top Ten Flowering Plants for June: 

1. Allium

 Flowering Garlic – still one of my (and many a show garden’s) favourite, a summer bulb with eye-catching, large globular heads of silvery lilac to deep mauve star-shaped flowers on tall stems, and strappy foliage. 

2. Astrantia

Masterwort – an old cottage garden plant that can look just as good in more contemporary schemes. The old varieties were a bit insignificant, but some of the new ones are much more vibrant with stunning, wine-red, pin-cushion-like flowers and attractive lobed foliage. They are particularly useful as they tolerate shade.

3. Clematis

Many of the really spectacular large-flowered varieties of these climbers are coming into bloom now, with flowers ranging in colour from white to pinks, reds, mauves, blues, and even pale yellow. Easy to look after if you stick to the pruning instructions on the label.

4. Delphinium

Larkspur - what English country garden would be complete without these stately perennials for the back of the border, with attractive deeply cut foliage and spires of flowers ranging from white to pink to mauve to intense deep blue. Truly majestic plants, but not awfully easy to look after, they need really good soil, lots of water and their height means they need staking early on. Slugs and snails can be a real problem in the spring too. Surely worth the effort though? 

5. Eremerus

Foxtail Lily – an unusual plant not often seen in gardens, possibly because it can be quite difficult to get the growing conditions right. It needs full sun all day, free-draining soil, protection from cold winds, copious watering during dry weather and protection from frost in winter. If you can provide all this though, they are well worth the effort with spectacular upright flower spikes of white, yellow, orange, peach or pink, rivalled only by the Delphiniums in stateliness.

6. Geranium

Cranes Bill – an undemanding perennial with saucer-shaped flowers in a range of colours from white to pink, mauve and blue, some with attractive veining, above attractive mounds of deeply  cut foliage. If you have the time to dead-head the fading flowers, the flowering season will last much longer.

7. Hemerocallis

Day Lily - such a great plant, so named because each flower lasts only a day, but is quickly replaced by another, giving this plant a long flowering season. It’s easy to look after and there are so many colours to choose from. As a bonus the flowers are edible too!

8. Leucanthemum

Shasta Daisy – an easy-to-grow perennial with simple, large white daisy flowers with a prominent yellow eye, great en masse in the borders, but also good for cutting. Attractive double varieties are also available.

9. Philadelphus

Mock Orange - quite large, dense deciduous shrubs, some with beautiful lime green foliage, with masses of large, cupped, gorgeously scented, double white flowers. 

10. Syringa

Lilac – one of the mainstays of the British garden, and although it flowers for a relatively short period, the size and fragrance of the blooms of this large shrub more than make up for this. Varieties with white, pink, lilac and purple flowers are available. But remember it’s supposed to be bad luck to bring flowers of the white varieties into the house!

June Tips and Advice  

1. You’re safe to plant out your summer bedding now, if you haven’t already done so. Get those hanging baskets up! 

2. Keep sowing salad leaves to get a succession of harvests throughout the summer. Courgettes and Swedes can be sown now too. 

3. Plant out Tomatoes now and put in the stakes for upright varieties before placing the plants to avoid damaging the roots. There are also many trailing varieties that are good for hanging baskets – attractive and productive too! 

4. If you have fan-trained fruit trees, remove any shoots that are growing towards the wall or out from the front of the tree and tie in shoots growing along the supporting wires. 

5. Tie in canes of Raspberries and Blackberries, thinning canes out if they have become too congested. 

6. Protect developing Strawberries by spreading straw under the plants. (You can also buy strawberry mats from the garden centre, or simply use black polythene). 

7. Water everything well if we do get a lot of dry weather. Do it in the evening if you can so that the sun doesn’t dry it up straight away. Also, it’s better to give everything a really thorough watering once a week, rather than a sprinkling every day as this only encourages the roots to come up to the surface where they’ll dry out. 

8. Top up ponds and water features regularly as some water will be lost due to evaporation. 

9. Feed everything once a week, that way you’ll get a lot more flowers. 

10. Tie in all your lovely climbers as they grow so that shoots don’t get damaged or too entangled. 

11. Keep looking out for pests and diseases in all your plants and treat before they become too infested. 

12. They say the first cut of box hedging should be done on Derby day and indeed all hedges can be pruned in June. Be careful that your tools are sharp and on no account allow the top of the hedge to become wider than the bottom, otherwise the bottom will suffer due to lack of light.  

13. If your Ceanothus (Californian Lilac) has got too big, it can be pruned back once the flowers have gone over, as can Evergreen Berberis (Barberry), Chaenomeles (Japanese Quince), Cytisus (Broom), Kerria (Jew’s Mallow), Philadelphus (Mock Orange), Syringa (Lilac) and Weigela. 

14. Keep up with your weeding, but don’t forget sometimes to just sit back and enjoy!

By Helen Ellison

Floral and Hardy’s designers are well versed in accommodating a variety of small urban spaces, but when we stumbled across the ‘Banksy’ of the garden world it was certainly an inspiring discovery. 

Steve Wheen is a man on a mission to highlight two plights; gardening and the ever increasing, contentious issue of potholes in the UK’s roads. Steve attacks the holes in stealth mode, choosing his location carefully and safely so the gardens have as much longevity as possible. 

Steve, like many other cyclists and road users, became frustrated with the state of the roads and felt that this was a colourful way make a statement on the issue. "I find potholes a constant menace and I've almost come off my bike several times, I'm also a mad-keen gardener and wanted to make a point,” said Steve.

We think that this is a grand gesture towards highlighting issues such as potholes in the road as well encouraging green fingers, and that you can have fun with flowers even in the smallest of spaces!  

The Floral and Hardy team are equipped to tackle a variety of gardens, in particular small garden design (perhaps not the size of a pothole!) to large corporate spaces. Now that the weather is finally starting to show its summer attributes, it’s the perfect time to spruce up your outdoor spaces and create your own little urban oasis. 

A small garden can often be more of a challenge than a huge open space, carefully considered construction, plants that will flourish well in shady corners - Floral and Hardy can make the most of vertical space and layering to get the most out of your outdoor space. 

You can follow Steve’s progress on his blog, as well as a colour gallery of his work, by visiting: www.thepotholegardener.com