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Toni Jux (225)

Bluebells, bluebells ... anywhere?

Posted by Toni Jux on Monday 25th April

A recurring theme of our blog has been the preservation of British wildlife and protection of institutions like the hedgerow and our native forests. However, this week we address a much subtler and perhaps overlooked threat to our indigenous horticulture. 

It's no secret that this spring has seen an uncharacteristic early waking of the Bluebell, but a common misunderstanding is the assumption that all Bluebells in England are English. Unfortunately, our native bluebell population is being overtaken by a foreign intruder, the Spanish Blubell, or (dum-de-dum-dum) ‘Hyacinthoides hispanica’. 

Like the North American grey squirrel, this continental sibling, by cross-pollination, is fast out-populating it's local rival. It is however, more than possible, and downright easy, to still enjoy this native symbol in its original form as the Wildlife Trust provides a database on their website that lists all the English and Welsh woodlands that host Hyacinthoides non-scripta. 

To help you identify which is which, the English bluebell is generally a deeper blue and holds all its pendant blooms on one side of its arching stem... 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

whilst the Spanish bluebell has flowers alternately on both sides.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

According to National Trust naturalist Matt Oates:

“The bluebell starts growing in January with the sole purpose to flower before the other woodland plants which have stalled because of the dry weather, this means that the bluebell is relatively free from competition and attracts the early spring pollinators”.

What this means for you is that the propagation of what has been voted the nation’s favourite flower, has been exponentially increased as they've a longer period of pollination than other species and in accordance with Matt's diagnosis, this March was the driest in forty years, and February the hottest of the last decade. With global warming on the rise, could this lead to a rejuvenation of the Bluebell species, their native climate now much more hospitable to their needs? One must hope so otherwise we can tick off another British institution, another symbol of our horticultural influence, lost to the annals of history because it just couldn't compete.

So get out and enjoy them while you can, as there is surely nothing more stunning than a sea of bluebells in a British woodland flooded with dappled sunlight.

 

 

 

 

By Josh Ellison

 

 

Insect Corridors

Posted by Toni Jux on Wednesday 20th April

The past decade has seen an alarming decline in insect numbers, bees specifically, and in a domestic respect this is largely attributable to the decrease of their natural habitats. 

Since 1979 the indigenous Hymenoptera, (the group of insects comprising sawflies, wasps, bees and ants), of the British Isles have halved in population.

 

 

Alerted by this, the Food & Environment Research Agency and the Natural Environment Research Council's (NERC) centre for Ecology and Hydrology has undertaken a conservation project to encourage new living grounds for the bee, moth and ant population.

 

 In conjunction with several charity groups, including Buglife, and under the guidance of the Biotechnology and Biological Sciences Research Council (BBSRC), NERC plan to establish bee roads forming a cross country vein and merging in Yorkshire. Local agriculturalists are being asked to sow parallel wild flower tracks on their land, whose bloom season will form a rich corridor of pollen. Buglife's involvement stems from the need for these refuge points. They led the protest against the redevelopment of the brownfield zones along the Thames waterline which supported a significant population of Hymenoptera.

There also has been some corporate interest in bees’ welfare and not without good reason, for aside from the ecological ramifications, there lies the monetary cost of the loss of the most prolific pollinator in the British ecosystem, not to mention the cheapest! Their absence could cost us £440,000,000 per year as their loss would have a catastrophic effect on domestic agriculture and force us to replace their free service with increased imports and alternative pollination methods.

In light of this, the supermarket chain The Co-Operative, has taken interest in the new conservation venture, donating £60,000 to the project that plans to restore 12 acres of Yorkshire countryside. 

Good for them, we say, and let’s hope many other sponsors get involved and these colourful living corridors spread all across the country.

By Josh Ellison

 

From Here to Serenity

Posted by Toni Jux on Tuesday 19th April

This week we'll be departing from domestic gardening conventions to appreciate the traditions of a more exotic vein of horticulture; one whose stylistic boundaries, while not necessarily correlating with European tastes, are still invaluable as a source of inspiration - namely the design, reasoning and aesthetic of the neo-classical Japanese garden.

Traditionally there are three archetypes of the Japanese garden - Karesansui, Tsukiyama and Chaniwa, and while their origins and objectives vary widely, you can be assured of several common elements that unite the trio:

There is the focus on water: whether real or symbolic, water is one of the major elements of a Japanese garden as the ethos is to succumb to nature, and never attempt to implement in your garden something that nature could not itself create.

With that focus comes the presence of symbolism itself. The Japanese often sought to recreate famous landscapes of Japan or China and, to do this, used symbolism combined with the motif of reduced scale i.e. a rock may represent a mountain or a stretch of sand, the ocean.

Attention to detail is key. While western psychology has adopted a compulsion to fill every available space with something physical, the the Karesansui can appear alien to western eyes - it's emptiness seeming wasteful without the abstract thinking that realised it.

 

It is the Karesansui that best personifies the Japanese gardening psychology, purely form, rather than function, it serves only to represent something greater than itself, thus it's English translation "dry landscape garden". To us, gravel or sand is utilised primarily as a practical surface for paths or drives, however the sands of the Karesansui are frequently the centre piece for the entire tableau, representing a great body of water or landscape then furnished with miniature islands, mountains or forests. Hence the popularity of the Bonsai Tree. To attain the authenticity of the Karesansui you could, for example, make  the dwarf conifer Juniperus procumbens ‘Nana’ an addition to your plant list, and there are many other miniature species that mimic their statuesque forest counterparts, so shop around to ensure that your micro forest is in keeping with the rest of the garden's personality.

The origins of Karesansui are entwined with the practice of temple gardening, the style indigenous to Zen Buddhism and the pursuit of tranquillity through labour. Creating an appropriate atmosphere is an essential step in ensuring the space maintains an air of serenity and detachment from the functional world. Fencing and shrubbery conceal surrounding buildings and other artificial intrusions from view to ensure this.

 

It is within the theme of boundaries and surroundings that Karesansui marries with Tsukiyama, whose most definite role is as the gardener’s diorama. Used to appreciate pre-established scenes within nature, the authentic Tsukiyama is probably the most difficult to recreate as it relies upon naturally grand surroundings or at least a locale that affords vistas worth exploiting. It is with this style that the concept of documenting famous landscapes originated. By applying careful planning, the objective is to give the illusion of space, so that even the minutest of environments seems grand due to the inclusiveness of its surroundings. Gardens in mountainous areas were known for this, as the mountains themselves were integrated to the space despite existing outside of its boundaries. It is essential therefore to consider your environment before embarking on a Tsukiyama project as it's fundamental principle depends on creating an image greater than the space allows. It is designed to heighten appreciation for that which nature has already created, an ornament rather than the whole Christmas tree.

 

Finally the Chaniwa garden. This style departs from the artistic imbalance between form and function and instead amalgamates the two. The Chaniwa, or "Tea Garden", originated in a ceremonial capacity as a veritable outdoor chapel. It is here that the water element is most prevalent as these spaces required basins or altars at which guests could purify themselves. It is there also that the resistance to artificiality is muted as pavilions and lanterns devoted to the ceremonies are not only encouraged, but form one of the key institutions of the Tea Garden. Other common conventions include an island surrounded by a pond, designated for the pavilion and also designed to be viewed from the water itself and as a vantage point from which to observe the rest of space. Stepping stones and bridges therefore are also common to this design as a necessity to make a convenient  transit between the separate areas. Stone lanterns may be added to complement the theme.

So if you are thinking of transforming your garden with a Japanese theme, one of the above styles may suit you, whether it’s the form over function mimicry of the wonders of nature, or the calm serenity of a temple garden. If it’s the more sociable atmosphere of a tea garden you’re after you’d better start pavilion shopping!

By Josh Ellison

 

April in the Garden

Posted by Toni Jux on Friday 1st April

Now the clocks have gone forward, we can look forward to warmer weather and longer evenings spent outside enjoying our gardens. We had a few good days towards the end of March, so let’s hope it continues!

Floral & Hardy’s Top Ten Flowering Plants for April

1. Anemone blanda – 

If you have a patch in full sun, plant drifts of these pretty little daisy-like flowers with narrow blue petals surrounding a bright yellow disc for stunning effect.

2. Brunnera – 

In contrast, these ground cover perennials prefer shady conditions and their large, heart-shaped, and sometimes variegated leaves, and branching sprays of small, star-shaped blue or white flowers can really brighten up areas under leafy trees. They’ll even give you a second flush of flowers in autumn!

3. Clematis alpina – 

A deciduous climber with attractive fresh green foliage and delicate, nodding, bell-shaped blooms of blue, white or pink, followed by interesting feathery seedheads.

4. Clematis armandii – 

Another climber, this time evergreen, with long, glossy leaves and vanilla-scented white, or pale pink flowers. Grow in a sunny spot, but cover the soil around the roots with pebbles or other evergreen planting, as all Clematis like to keep their roots in the shade.

5. Pieris – 

You’ll need acid soil for this evergreen shrub with its vibrant red new growth in spring and its long sprays of white, lily-of-the-valley-like blooms. Given the right conditions, it can grow up to 3ms tall, so make sure you’ve got the space for it!

6. Primula japonica – 

There are many types of Primula, but this is one of my particular favourites – the ‘Candelabra Primula’. It bears its flowers in a series of whorls up the stem, giving its common name, and is best grown in moist soil.

7. Pulsatilla vulgaris –  

The ‘Pasque Flower’ should be grown in full sun and is ideal for the rockery or a raised bed where its delicate beauty can be fully appreciated. The silky buds open into purple or red, star-shaped flowers, followed by the ferny foliage and later, attractive silky seedheads.

8. Skimmia – 

A small, compact evergreen shrub with dark green, glossy foliage and fragrant white flowers from pink buds, followed, if you have both male and female varieties, by bright red berries. Another one for gardens with acid soil, but this time shade suits best.

9. Spiraea arguta – 

Commonly called ‘Bridal Wreath’, this was the first shrub I ever bought, and it’s still one of my favourites. The arching branches are smothered with clusters of tiny white flowers at this time of year and it’s so easy to grow, flourishing in most soils and sun or partial shade.

10. Tulipa – 

We’re all familiar with Tulips and there are so many types and colours to choose from, there’s bound to be one to suit you. Plant the bulbs in full sun in late autumn to enjoy them next spring, or but them ‘in the green’ now for instant effect.

 

April Tips and Advice

1. Your herbaceous plants will all be showing now. Support those that are going to need it with cane wigwams or other purpose-made supports before it’s too late! Plants such as oriental poppies and perennial geraniums can soon start to look messy if they are allowed to flop over.

2. Feed your roses with a well-balanced fertiliser, or better still mulch around the plant with good organic material. Also make sure you treat as soon as there are any signs of aphids or black spot. There are chemical treatments on the market to deal with both these problems, but if you are trying to be a little more eco-friendly, planting other plants such as Marigolds and Poached Egg Plants nearby has been proven to reduce aphid numbers as they attract beneficial insects, such as Hoverflies, Ladybirds and Lacewings to eat them. Many people have success by spraying weekly with very diluted washing-up liquid - about one teaspoon to a couple of litres of water. Failing that, just rub the aphids off with your fingers! If you notice black spot on your roses, be sure to remove any infected leaves and also any leaves that have fallen. Do not put them on the compost heap but either burn them or throw them away as otherwise the infection will be spread all around the garden when you use the compost.

3. Look out for Lily Beetles (bright red) in your emerging Lilies and  Fritillaries. There is no chemical to eradicate them, so just pick them off and crush them, or they’ll demolish the plants in days.

4. If your evergreen Viburnums have been attacked, leaving the leaves looking like brown lace, you’ve probably got Viburnum Beetle. Spray the new foliage now with a treatment containing permethrin, bifenthrin, pirimiphos-methyl, fenitrothion or pyrethrum (available at your garden centre) and at intervals throughout the season to prevent it happening again.

5. Prune early flowering shrubs such as Forsythia, Ribes (Ornamental Currant) and Chaenomeles (Japanese Quince) as soon as the flowers have faded. They will flower next spring on this year’s new growth, so if you leave it too late you’ll be cutting off next year’s flowering shoots. Pruning at the wrong time is the main reason why many people find that their shrubs don’t flower.

6. You can feed your lawn with a spring/summer feed and mow every week from now until the autumn. Your grass may have grown a little bit over the autumn and winter and, as grasses should only have their top third removed to promote healthy growth, you should start with the blades set high. You can gradually lower the blades over the season, but never ‘scalp’ the lawn, as this will lead to bald patches and allow moss to thrive.

7. New lawns can be sown now after carefully preparing the soil by raking level, firming and raking again. Make sure you water thoroughly – even if it rains!

8. Wildflower meadows can also be sown now. Make sure you choose a mix that is suitable for your site and soil conditions. There are many mixes available – for wet or dry soils, chalk or clay, shade or sun – easy!

9. You can sow Californian Poppies, Cornflowers, Marigolds and Sweet Peas outside now, right where they are to flower. Make sure the soil is well-prepared and weed-free and simply sow them according to the instructions on the packet for an inexpensive show of colour all summer long.

10. April is also the best month to plant stunning Magnolias. They are best grown in a sunny or lightly-shaded spot, and although their flower display is quite short-lived, I’m sure you’ll agree, they’re worth it!

By Helen Ellison, Garden Designer

 

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