Reed banks are becoming an increasingly threatened biosphere in Britain as is discernible from the recent press coverage they’ve been receiving, not to mention initiatives such as Lodmoor and Radipole Lake Reserve in Dorset. 

In fact, in a recent new release, the publication ‘Southern Farmer’ stated they are currently the fastest disappearing microcosm and that one of the key factors contributing to this decline is the lack of maintenance that garden ponds’ natural counterparts are receiving, hence the impetus for projects like Radipole Lake that are essential to protecting wildlife, such as the Bearded Tit, and its natural ecosystem.

Marshes and swamps have seen a catastrophic invasion by the agricultural industry in the last two hundred years due to the natural capacity of our native wetlands to support both plant life and huge bodies of water,. Nick Quintrell is the warden of the Weymouth Wetlands, where Radipole Lake is situated, and he stated that reed beds are unique among natural habitats, due to their transient nature, that before human interference they were naturally maintained and halted by the global procession of flooding, but in today’s artificial landscape they cannot survive without constant care and attention.

Quintrell went on to say 

“Reed cutting prevents the beds from drying out and being taken over by scrub and woodland. We cut different sections at different times to create a mosaic of differing age structures... for example it provides birds such as Bearded Tits, with a brand new food source every year.”

However, reed bed maintenance is not only an ecological endeavour, but it also provides a commercial alternative to the plants degradation as, when the reeds are properly maintained, they can be harvested for the use of commercial thatching and, in times like these, we must encourage any native product as much as possible.

Now obviously we can’t all donate thousands of pounds to one of the aforementioned initiatives, however, in the months leading up to this piece there’s been a lot of talk concerning green corridors and that’s where you, Mr. or Ms. Home Gardener, come in. A green corridor essentially refers to any ecologically developed piece of land capable of supporting large scale biomass within a dominantly urban or artificial environment.

Thus, because of the dramatic decrease of wetland and other natural habitats, the importance of home grown alternatives has become critically important to Britain’s wildlife and as such we’re going to provide some starter points on how to maintain your own miniature wetland or pond in your garden.

One of the most important factors in healthy pond keeping is the technique and timing of your cleaning cycle. While there are arguments for various methods we will stick to the simplest and hopefully, most cost effective.

First of all the reasons for cleaning - accumulated debris such as leaves and catkins not only sap the oxygen from your pond, but in the decomposition stages they can make it a breeding ground for nasty bacteria or worse, release poisonous gases.  A simple trick to avoid toxic gassy build up in winter is to cut a hole in the ice over your pond to prevent the fumes from accumulating, however, should you see signs of these gases, such as broken egg shells, then you should remove any fish or other wildlife immediately before continuing your clean.

The simplest means of filtering your pond water presents itself during the construction phase, if possible, install a drain at the bottom of the pond, allowing you to simply drain the water out and easily remove any debris, however if you are beyond the building phase then it is feasible to use a net to sift out larger debris as you would a swimming pool.

Of course when revitalising the water levels of a pond, care must be taken to avoid saturating the native supply with chlorine which is inherent to the majority of municipal water systems, and to avoid this a carbon filter can be installed wholesale to your homestead. Otherwise it is best to retain some of the original pond water and mix it with the tap water to refill.

The best period to perform the clean will be the beginning of winter, when the majority of the pond life will be hibernating and also to avoid festering of large amounts of debris while the pond is frozen, causing an anaerobic build up. While spring is also an effective time, due to the build-up over winter of biomass, like leaves and seeds, you dice with disturbing new hatchlings or spawn and thus disrupt the biosphere you’ve established.

A common mistake when maintaining the pond garden is to be overzealous in ensuring a good water level. Remember that ponds are organic things and you should expect a relative fluctuation in water quantity depending on the weather. Also, some species are more inclined to inhabit drier, mud based environments, and Newts are a fine example.

Finally, it is not the surface area of water that counts, but rather the depth and biodiversity - try to plan your planting in order to construct an underwater maze for wildlife and remove, or buffer algae and weeds wherever possible with natural remedies like Barley Straw to maintain a healthy mix.

By Josh Ellison

Due to the uncharacteristically wet Springs we’ve suffered in recent years (although not so much the early part of this year!), our blossom trees have suffered accordingly - an unfortunate and somewhat alienating side effect, as the common cherry blossom symbolises for many the dawn of spring. Blossoms, aside from signalling the beginning of the new flowering season, have maintained many different alter egos among different cultures and civilization, including that of mortality due to their fleeting life cycle and their pre-emptive appearance to the birds of spring and other accompanying wildlife. In Japan, the common cherry blossom is synonymous with clouds and is thought to symbolise this ephemeral quality of life. In fact it is so highly respected for its iconography that the Japanese hold an annual festival celebrating it. The festival, known as Hanami, is one of the oldest in the world, with its core principles thought to have originated in the 5th century AD.

Of course, we cannot pigeon-hole the term ‘blossom’ merely to the candy floss trees that appear on the streets and lawns of Britain every spring. Blossom, by definition, refers to any tree that bears clusters of flowers and species such as Magnolia and Hawthorn, and are often categorised as such. It is common, however, for the layman to define a blossom according to their experience of such fruit bearing genus as Malus (Apples), Prunus (Cherries, Plums or Peaches) or Pyrus (Pears).

However, numerous different varieties of Cherry blossom have been imported from Japan to the UK in recent decades and it’s not difficult to understand why, as we can discern from the opinions of horticulturalists Simon Tetlow and Tony Kirkham.

Tetlow stated that:

“The first blossoms give that feeling that you've beaten winter and the worst is behind you… It's the promise of things for the year ahead; good crops for later in the year and nice sunshine to be working in as summer approaches.”

Tony Kirkham of the Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew echoed the deputy head from Tatton Park’s feelings on the matter:

“As soon as trees come into blossom, spirits are lifted…The last three blossom seasons have been patchy at best... and while it may seem like blossom is early this year, in fact the season is right on time”.

In fact, the popularity of Japanese import in the blossom market has become widespread enough to encourage an investigation into their standing against endemic species such as the Wild Cherry, an inquest into which the Natural History Museum is into its third year. Their findings have shown that despite its abundance on our shores, the Japanese Cherry Blossom is in fact only second in popularity to our native Wild Cherry and both find their most regular application to be in the setting of private gardens.

Now we’ve spoken exhaustively about the better known varieties of blossom, I’d like to talk a little about my personal favourite and how to care for it, in the hope that, with it on your minds, you might plant a few of them and thus I’ll get to see them more often. Selfish I know but anyway here she comes.

Cydonia oblonga is a small deciduous tree and more commonly referred to by the title of the fruit it bears - the quince. Shortly after the final frost, this cultivar will bear deep or pale pink flower clusters against soft, ovate leaves. However, my penchant derives as much from the fruit as from the blossom itself, which in early autumn appears a tawny gold colour and is both beautiful and highly fragrant.

By Josh Ellison

If winter be our great discontent, then spring is the time of great uncertainty and none in recent memory has proved this the case more righteously than the one we’re currently experiencing. So far we’ve seen several late frosts, one of the longest droughts in recorded history and now a somewhat welcome rainy spell. However, what this equates to is a great deal of risk for the delicate areas of gardens, roots can freeze and die, and high winds can destroy those bloomers that the drought fooled us into exposing. However, this week we’re discussing lawns, the basic maintenance tips during such an unruly April, and whether turf really is the better option over seed.

If you’re starting from scratch with a new lawn, there are different types of grass seed and turf, composed of different mixes of varieties. Cool-season grasses include fescue, blue grass and rye, which have two annual growth spurts, the first preliminary spurt in spring and the more noticeable growth in autumn, due to their preference they will suffer in particularly hot summers - such as the one we’ve been promised this year - and so the priority of spring care is preparing them for the difficult months ahead. Warm-season grasses comprise species like Zoysia, St. Augustine and Bermuda, which will hibernate in the winter months and will flourish once the thaw is well over and the hot weather begins, growing consistently from late spring to late summer.

The debate between seeded lawns and turf continues. Seeding is considerably cheaper, however, results can be patchy, and birds, cats and heavy rainfall can all result in seed being dispersed unevenly. Weed control is also a factor, because seeded lawns cannot be planted in conjunction with chemical herbicides and so it makes the weed problem much more strenuous to deal with. However, we must also consider the relative cost in man hours vs. capital when thinking of the softer option of turf. Each obviously has their disadvantages and benefits, but in the end it is up to you decide based on the environment of your garden and also the budget you’ve allocated.

With established lawns, due to the post winter moisture that will have no doubt accumulated in your garden, try to avoid any heavy garden work or even walking on the lawn until it dries out, as weight and hard impact can cause the soil to condense and the grass itself to develop clumps that will be unsightly and interfere with growth.

But, once your garden has dried out, it is best to give the lawn a thorough, but gentle, spring clean. Gather leaves and other fallen debris by hand and then carefully rake over to lift those blades of grass stuck together, to make it easier to mow. With the first cut, lift the mower blades a little and then gradually lower them as the season moves on. Try to avoid scalping, as this will encourage moss and weeds. It’s best to leave the clippings on the lawn in spring and summer, as they will feed the growing lawn and keep some moisture in too.

Any bare patches can be re-sown this month. Just lightly fork over the surface to break it up and then firm it down gently before sowing the seed. Don’t forget to water it though!

Feed the lawn with slow–release organic fertiliser now for a greener lawn later, but don’t over feed as this will make it prone to disease.

Finally, people often ask us how to create those stripes you see on lawns – it’s simple, you just need a mower with a roller on it and then mow in different directions, up and down the lawn. Grass has a ‘nap’, just like some fabrics, and the roller just lays the grass in different directions, thereby creating the stripes – easy!

By Josh Ellison

In our initial report on the Ecobuild conference we touched on a seminar given by Duncan Baker-Brown representing BBM design and titled 'Searching for an eco vernacular' wherein he described briefly the imminent need for change in our architectural infrastructures. Due to the global distribution of wealth, we've entered into a temporary bargain with the resources of our planet to tailor to the minority with the capital to make it so. Brown cited the modern metropolis as an example of how modern ecology’s detriment id due to what he referred to as, 'linear metabolisms'.

The terms linear and circular metabolisms stem from the theory of commerce in contemporary cities, particularly those of trade and GNP. It states that a city’s ecological footprint must be measured by the sum of the area that the city occupies, but must be inclusive of the resources it requires to maintain its inflow of food, construction materials, consumer products and migration, the amount required to process the city’s waste in order that it be integrated in the environment, a major problem posed by pollution, and how much land is required outside the city to cater to these needs.

Based on these principles, sustainability specialists such as DEFRA (UK Government Department of Environment, Farming and the Regions) have been able to assess the approximate ecological footprint of metropolises such as London, which function based on a linear metabolism. The fundamental difference between a linear and circular metabolism can be measured by each system’s efficiency in regards to its resource management. It is fair to say that while a linear system will rely on a great abundance of resources, despite the fact that its efficiency may suffer, a circular metabolism will put greater emphasis on recycling as a means of maintaining geographical independence, not to mention a sustainable ecological footprint.

A highly successful past example of circular metabolisms is that of the current economic giant whose twelve major cities, in terms of populace, were a functioning example of how consistent reliability on domestic products bred financial independence among its population and, as a by product, a more lengthy shelf life upon which to base the cities limitations and sustainable potential for growth.

London was referenced as a key example of the long term impossibility of linear metabolisms, based on studies undertaken by bodies such as DEFRA, some unsettling statistics were compiled concerning our Capital’s productivity when weighed against its ecological footprint. It was estimated that despite Britain's protests as an emergent force in ecological sustainability, our dominant population centre requires an area over a hundred times its existing size to support the current consumption of its populace. A case study that Brown cited states that London's current surface area assumes approximately 160,000 hectares, while the collective mass of its input and waste materials requires an area of 20,000,000 hectares - equivalent to Britain's entire yieldable landmass!

Of course the primary motivation of initiatives like DEFRA’s is to establish how such consumerist societies can be more effectively managed, in order that the gulf between production and consumption may be lessened if not bridged. It is at this point that the concept of circular metabolisms finds its role, because by definition it depends upon the local resources of a populace in order to function. Due to the country’s traditionally agricultural foundations in finance, China has been the most consistent example of self-sustainable metropolises. In fact until recently China's twelve major cities were all based on circular metabolisms, which in turn saw their rise to economic prominence following half a century of war, and the continuing employment of communism in a global market rife with capitalism. Unfortunately, the rising demand for fossil based fuels and products has contributed to a linear necessity when concerning first world nations and, if left unchecked, could make circular production impossible.

However, outside of architects and politicians, all this information begs the question as to what an individual can do about it?  We'll be continuing this topic in a later article, wherein will be discussed a variety of ecologically efficient alternatives to current residential applications, so that at least we can all do our bit towards achieving a more sustainable Britain.

By Josh Ellison

It is 2012 and, aside from a certain birthday party here in the UK, we have several things to celebrate, not least of which is Holland’s Floriade, the ten-yearly festival that, as of this year, has been going strong since its inception in 1960. The theme for this year’s expo, which takes place in Venlo, and which attracts enthusiasts and professionals from across the globe, is ‘The Theatre of Nature’ which is considered by its inventor to be an interactive theatre, affording visitors a role of participation rather than mere observation. 

The concept circles around nature’s ability to engage all the senses simultaneously. We’ve already discussed the different psychological benefits of exposure to certain colours, however, Floriade is as much about the human dividends in nature, as it is about the reciprocation of the gifts the natural world gives us.

It’s no surprise that the event is only held once a decade as it is one of the longest running of the year - beginning just over a week ago and not winding down until early October. It is also one of the largest horticultural events in the world, this year occupying over 100 hectares for the fair and show grounds. This grand scale is understandable, given that the show has averaged three million visitors since its opening and peaking at nearly five in 1982.

The exposition this year is divided into five separate and distinctly themed ‘worlds’ designed to cover all aspects of the basic theme.

These five areas could be said to encompass the key motivations behind modern horticulture namely the therapeutic drive of Relax and Heal, the integration between technology and nature as found in Green Engine, an investment in awareness with Education and Innovation, the rising importance in introducing green spaces to our urban settings covered by Environment and finally, gardening for its own sake, or for the sake of excellence, which will be promoted on the World Show Stage.

However, while horticulture certainly holds the limelight at Floriade it cannot be said to be only discipline exhibited, there are also stages for graphic art and design, music, dance and the theatrical arts. Aside from these, this year’s Floriade also boasts the largest gondola ride programme in the Netherlands, with a maximum capacity of 4000 punters per hour!

Villa Flora, the indoor flower exhibition is the largest on the continent and quite separately there are over 100 commercial ventures and exhibitors and, as was a common theme for those working the floor at Ecobuild, the recent exhibition in London, you can expect a heavy focus on the application of sustainable energy sources and minimising ecological footprints - something that has been both scrutinised and encouraged as one of the core foundations of this year’s event.

While Floriade promises to minimise its effect on the environment and derive maximum efficiency from waste products, the economic viability of the expo is also being taken into account. Why, even on their homepage they assure visitors of the quality of asparagus and beers to be found in the northerly region of Limburg!

The only question remaining is where will you be during this decade’s largest horticultural gathering? Considering the relative cheapness of a flight to Holland these days and the multitude of reasons to buy one, Floriade aside, can you really afford to miss it?

By Josh Ellison

Circular metabolisms, therapeutic gardening and the Totnes pound

A few weeks ago I was lucky enough to attend London’s Eco build conference on the emerging role of sustainability in infrastructure on the domestic and global stage. As a brief outline for those unfamiliar with Eco build, its role is that of an annual ecological summit designed to encourage not only the advocates of this topics awareness but also the businesses that hope to provide a commercial and affordable means of propagating and materialising these ideas for both corporate bodies and the general public. The conference was held at Custom House in the East End and hosted over a thousand different seminars, lectures and exhibitors representing all corners of ecological construction, landscaping and infrastructure.

One of these guest speakers was Gardeners World presenter Monty Don who was speaking on the therapeutic and rehabilitative effects of horticulture in a community of former and current drug users. Don is widely considered to be the leading British authority in horticulture after having inherited the title from former paterfamilias Alan Titchmarsh, and his expertise is only heightened by the fact that his craft was self-taught. His project, more a labour of love, was featured in a BBC documentary under the name Growing out of Trouble which centred on several recovering heroin addicts taking warrant of a Herefordshire free holding as a means of recovery. Here Don insisted upon the needs for responsibility and routine that large-scale gardening was able to fulfil and how embracing these needs was an essential first step in the recovery process.

A later seminar was that held by a number of town council members from the civil parish Totnes situated in Devonshire, who among other topics, were discussing the benefits and long term sustainability of self-contained communities-made possible by such economic ventures as regional currency like the Totnes pound. Innovations such as these, which have also risen to prominence in the city of Bristol and on a smaller scale in the London borough of Brixton, ensure that the financial blood of these areas is not easily removed by short-term visitors and tourists. The scheme works based on the use of cash machines, within the boundaries of the district the machines will only dispense currency valid to the area and so while foreign capital can enter Totnes, domestic currency can never leave.

The purpose of this initiative was to aid Totnes’ continued independence as a principality and its detachment from the fluctuations of the national economy.

The third conference I attended was on the value of recycling construction materials and exponential growth, and how this reflects on the carbon footprint of the world’s metropolises. The topic that peaked my interest was the comparison between linear and circular metabolisms, these monikers were raised when discussing theoretical infrastructure. However this subject will be covered in greater detail in a later article as to try to summarise it here would be to do its presenter Duncan Baker Brown a great disservice not to mention undermine the seriousness with which it must be considered.

The other section of this discussion centred on the effective rejuvenation of construction materials and making the change in our ecological footprint in the construction and design phase rather than as an afterthought, reminiscent of one of the conferences key slogans “It is not enough to do things better, we need to do better things.”

In a later blog I’ll discuss the recent and continuing change in the psychology of large scale architecture and the methods by which you can ensure your own home will make a less dramatic impact on the environment such as solid wall insulation, double glazing and clean energy alternatives that are possible to integrate into a residential setting.

Stay tuned for our analysis of modern cityscapes and how consumerist psychology has led to the downfall of waste efficient, ecologically friendly cities and how you as an individual can aid the return to the equilibrium.

By Josh Ellison

Continuing our colour theme blogs about the different tones of foliage available to the gardener to provide interest and contrast throughout the seasons, I write this week about the anomaly of variegated foliage. The term refers to any foliage that has multiple leaf pigments and thus, in effect, a multi-colour scheme on the same plant. So, as usual, we’ve compiled a list of five plants that fit the bill and a segment for each on how to care for them and the benefits such care will reap.

Floral & Hardy’s Top Five Variegated Foliage Plants:

Actinidia kolomikta

Actinidia kolomikta is a fruit bearing deciduous climber that, throughout the spring months, will exhibit a combination of green and white foliage to be followed in summer by an unusual and stunning mixture of pink, white and green leaves with small white blooms. The cultivar’s two genders will grow exclusively to one another, however, both are needed in order to produce the yellow fruits that will follow the summer flowering period.

The kolomikta has a penchant for full sunlight and therefore should be planted in a southern facing aspect, ideally against a wall in well-drained soil, though the content and acidity of this soil is largely inconsequential.

Arum italicum ‘Pictum’

Also known as ‘Lords and Ladies’, this is a tuberous perennial, possessed of glossy, arrow head foliage that appears a deep, emerald green with cream coloured veins at the centre of each leaf. Unlike most perennials, this foliage will remain year round and be highlighted by blooms of pale green spathes surrounding a spike of tiny yellow flowers in the summertime. The bright red berries subsequently produced are poisonous, but the blackbirds love them! Division of the plant’s clumps or tubers should take place directly after flowering to ensure healthy propagation. That aside this cultivar is very adaptable to wet, dry, sunny or shadowed areas of the garden and holds no particular preference to ph level or soil structure.

Aucuba japonica ‘Crotonifolia’

Aucuba, which also goes by the handle ‘Japanese Laurel’, is an evergreen shrub with large, glossy emerald leaves dappled in bright yellow, whose colours are off-set by the pairing of small purple flowers it produces in the springtime and the red berries it will bear post-pollination. A word to the wise though, all parts of this cultivar are toxic to humans and so they are not recommended planting for a family garden. If however, you’re willing to risk exposure to this plant, Aucuba is a very hardy and easy-to-look-after shrub and happy in dry, shady areas, well-drained soil and a rich loam.

Cornus alternifolia ‘Argentea’

This is a multi-stemmed deciduous shrub with mid-green foliage rimmed in white or cream and an abundance of small white flowers that grow in clusters along its horizontal limbs through June and July, giving a very attractive tiered effect. Following the flowering period the foliage will turn to a combination of deep red and purple in autumn. Due to its size and spread rate, this cultivar requires little shelter from the elements, nor a particularly sunny planting position, however, it is partial to an acidic soil, preferably composed of loose soil components like sand and chalk.

Hedera colchica ‘Paddy’s Pride’.

‘Sulphur Heart’, as this variety of ivy is also known, is classified as an evergreen climber with potential for large growth - within 5-10 years reaching dimensions up to eight by four metres! It gains its laconic name from its foliage which takes the form of a broad green arrow head divided through the middle by vivid yellow veins. However, it is important to note that the ingestion of this plant can cause severe discomfort, while contact with the skin may cause milder irritation. Fortunately the silver lining of this toxic addition is that it is largely indifferent to the environment it occupies whether the soil be acidic or alkaline, dense or loose, in sun or shade. The only thing I would say is to provide it with a fair amount of a shelter and support by planting near a wall rather than relying on canes to aid to its habit, as the weight of foliage would be too much for them.

Hopefully you’ll find this list useful when selecting new planting, as it is always important to remember that, while foliage is not always the star of your garden, it is largely around for most of the year and can provide an interesting foil for the more exotic colours that flowers provide. Having said that, as we’ve seen there are so many different coloured foliage plants around, there might not be any need for flowers at all!

By Josh Ellison

Following on from last week’s article about silver toned foliage, here we’re covering the colour blue and a selection of the most effective cultivars for displaying this hue. As has been mentioned previously, it is interesting to consider the time of year that your foliage will have the greatest impact in the garden and this colour may be particularly effective in summer when it will be enhanced by the (hopefully!) blue skies we’ll be enjoying.

Floral & Hardy’s Top Five Blue Beauties:

Cerinthe major purpurascens

Otherwise known as ‘Honeywort’, Cerinthe major purpurascens is an upright annual flowering cultivar which can grow up to 60 centimetres tall and whose foliage will alternate between blue and turquoise throughout spring and summer. The flowers of this plant have bright purple petals, offset by a vivid yellow heart and they will also be accompanied by purple bracts growing at the base of the flowers. They are highly attractive to bees and will thrive if cutting is performed regularly. They prefer well drained soil and a sheltered position that enjoys full sun, but the Honeywort is fairly indifferent to soil structure and will perform equally well in almost any ph. level.

Festuca glauca ‘Elijah Blue’

‘Elijah Blue’ is a compact, clump-forming, evergreen ornamental grass, producing strikingly blue tufts of wiry foliage about 20 centimetres tall, accompanied by blue-green flowers in the summertime that, come autumn, will fade to pale brown. However, these blooms are tiny to the point of unnoticeable and so will not detract from the beauty of the foliage itself. The plant will require very little maintenance and even better, it is suited to the majority of environments, withstanding high levels of exposure or extremes at either end of the ph. spectrum.

Helictotrichon sempervirens

If you like the Festuca but need something a bit bigger, the ‘Blue Oat Grass’ might be for you, as this is another dense evergreen with a tufted habit - rather like the Festuca, but taller. Its rigid, spiky leaves will grow to approximately 1.4 metres in height, in a blue or silver tone throughout all seasons. In the summertime it will also produce brown flowers in small spikelets borne on broad panicles, provided it is grown in full sun. The eponymous foliage is quite hardy and will therefore thrive in most environments, even in poor soil, but it does prefer an alkaline based soil. They can be easily propagated by means of division following flowering in mid-summer.

Hosta ‘Hadspen Blue’

‘Hadspen Blue’ is a small herbaceous perennial of minimal maintenance that will grow to a maximum height of 35 centimetres within 2-5 years. It has smooth, blue-grey, heart-shaped leaves and produces summer blooming, bell-shaped, mauve flowers. It has a clump-forming habit and will perform best in heavy clay or loam based soil. Despite its high level of hardiness, it does prefer a sheltered position and an acidic ph. level, so be aware that a light, sandy soil may cause its leaves to yellow. Hostas are notoriously attractive to slugs and snails, however, they don’t seem to like the blue-leafed varieties as much, so this one might be a good choice.

Juniperus squamata 'Blue Star'

This is a dwarf, coniferous shrub with bright blue, needle-shaped foliage, forming a dense, low-growing clump. Being an evergreen, it will give good year-round colour, making this a particularly dramatic choice if planted en-masse, which may be necessary as the plant only has a maximum height and spread of 50 centimetres and 1 metre respectively. Another extremely hardy cultivar, Blue star can be planted in any well drained soil and will even tolerate very hot and sunny sites. However, it is also important to note that all parts of this cultivar are toxic, so maybe not a good choice where there are young children or pets.

So concludes our segment on blue foliage, which hopefully will be as much a highlight to your garden as the blue skies they will reflect come their summer matinees.

By Josh Ellison

Floral & Hardy’s Top Ten Drought-Tolerant Plants

Following yesterday’s article, and to help your garden cope with the hosepipe ban and our seemingly changing climate, we’ve compiled a list of our favourite drought-tolerant plants:

1. Abelia grandiflora 

– a large, easy-to-look-after, semi-evergreen shrub - properly tended it can reach heights of 1.8 metres and will bear glossy, deep green leaves and masses of fragrant, pale pink-flushed white bell flowers all summer long.

2. Acacia dealbata 

– ‘Mimosa’ - a small, evergreen tree with scented, fluffy, ball-shaped yellow flowers, providing a cheerful splash of colour in the garden from January to April when there is not much else in flower. It also has pretty, glaucous, feathery foliage and will reach an eventual height of about 15 metres.

3. Cordyline australis  

- ‘Cabbage Palm’ - a branched, evergreen tree with bold, sword-shaped leaves of green, purple or variegated with yellow and, in summer, dramatic, scented white flowers, lending an exotic feel to the garden. It can grow to about 10 metres tall eventually.

4. Cortaderia selloana 

– ‘Pampas Grass’ – forms a large clump of narrow, white-edged leaves from which stunning, silvery plumes up to 2 metres tall appear in summer. Just be careful when tidying up the plant as the leaves can be quite sharp.

5. Eccremocarpus scaber 

– it’s not called ‘Chilean Glory Vine’ for nothing, as it bears masses of clusters of yellow, orange or red, tubular flowers from late spring to early autumn. It will scramble over fences, walls and other plants too, to provide vibrant colour throughout the summer. It used to be considered an annual, but in sheltered gardens it will survive the winter and self-seed freely.

6. Echinops 

- otherwise known as ‘Globe Thistle’, due to its spherical purple-blue flower heads and thistle-like foliage, this perennial is a species native to Africa's tropical regions and parts of central Asia, particularly the Indian subcontinent, and has therefore had the time and experience to negotiate extreme weather conditions such as drought.

7. Euphorbia 

- a striking perennial species with a shrubby form, evergreen glaucous foliage and conspicuous sulphur yellow bracts in spring. Special care should be taken though when working around the plant to avoid their poisonous and caustic sap.

8. Fatsia japonica 

- keeps appearing in our articles, and not only because of its aesthetic, structural appeal - it is also one of the most durable evergreen species you can cultivate here in England. It has eight-lobed leaf formations, large, creamy-white, candlebra-like blooms between autumn and winter, followed by deep plum-coloured berries in late winter and can get up to 2.5 metres tall.

9. Hebe 

– a range of versatile, evergreen shrubs of varying sizes and degrees of hardiness with white, pink, lilac or purple flowers in summer. There’s one to suit most situations and they are all pretty drought tolerant and easy to look after.

10. Common Lavender 

- actually flourishes in dry environments and so is ideally suited to this short list. With its scented purple, pink or white flowers and evergreen foliage, it’s an essential in any cottage garden scheme. Definitely avoid the use of this in humid environments, as this species is prone to root rot in the damp, most fertilisers should also be avoided. In fact the only maintenance really required is good air circulation, a sand based soil and a light trim over after flowering to keep its shape.

If you can’t find anything you like amongst the above, there are things you can look for to gauge how drought-tolerant a plant might be:

• Silver or grey leaves reflect sunlight and heat away from the plant

• Some plants have furry leaves or leaves with fine hairs which can trap moisture and keep it close to the plant

• Succulent leaves store water to cope with periods of drought

• The size of leaf is an indicator too as smaller, narrow leaves lose less water to evaporation

Most drought-tolerant plants will appreciate a sheltered, sunny position in the garden. Do remember though, that no plant can survive with no water, especially straight after planting, so make sure you water well until it is established.

By Josh Ellison