Continuing our weekly periodical on colour based cultivars, we bring to you a selection of white and cream hued blooms to accompany those other tones we’ve already covered.  The White Garden at Sissinghurst is a famous example of the use of this single colour scheme, although it is of course balanced with green foliage. As any interior design programme will tell you, the primary feeling the colour white provokes is that of space, however, in too great abundance this can translate to emptiness, coldness and sterility. It is important, should you choose to populate your garden with primarily white, that you maybe complement it with rich hues of red, dark blue and purple in order that you don’t lose all the warmth and welcome a garden should evoke. After all, the last thing one wants to be reminded of in their garden is a hospital, which can be a common connotation when white is over used!

Floral and Hardy’s Five Faves:

Clematis ‘Duchess of Edinburgh’

This variety of Clematis was first introduced to the British Isles in the 19th century and has since become one of the most popular species of deciduous Clematis in the country. As a deciduous climber the Duchess will perform best when supported by a pergola or trellis and preferably in a sheltered position facing any direction but north. It is also a hardy species that prefers a clay based alkaline soil and the beautiful, double, white flowers will bloom with or without full sun.

Convolvulus cneorum

‘Silverbush’ is a low-growing, evergreen shrub with a spreading habit that will yield small white, yellow-centred, trumpet-shaped blooms. They prefer full sunlight and will tolerate most soils and ph levels, aside from silt based compounds. They are known to bloom throughout spring and summer and for the rest of the year will show the silver foliage for which they are named, however, because of the fragility of their blooms, it is advised you plant them in a sheltered area of the garden.

Dictamnus albus

‘Burning Bush’, as it is more frequently referred to, is a woody perennial with erect stems, lance-like, lemon-scented, emerald green foliage from spring to winter and fragrant, white, spidery florets through summer. They are rated with level 4 hardiness and are among the least fussy cultivars on our list as they will tolerate any acidity, soil quality, sunlight allowance or level of exposure. As long as some sunlight is provided alongside a well-drained soil then this plant will thrive. Its common name derives from the fact that should you light a match close to its faded flower heads, they will ignite. A blue flame will surround the upper part of the plant, but no damage will be done! Amazing!

Magnolia grandiflora

The grandiflora variety of Magnolia is a large, rounded evergreen shrub or tree, reaching up to 12 metres at maturity. It sports deep green, leathery leaves that are often rusty brown on their underside and, along with these, it will also yield intensely aromatic cream shaded flowers in summer. Magnolia grandiflora will tolerate acidic or alkaline soils of practically any consistency however due to the dimensions of its flowers you’ll want to ensure they’re well sheltered, preferably by a nearby wall that can also provide additional support for the stems.

Trillium grandiflorum

‘American Wake Robin’ serves as another name for this beautiful, tri-petalled cultivar whose fragrant white petals are complemented by their yellow inflorescences at the blooms’ centre. The ideal growing conditions for this plant include full shade, or partial shade at the least, and preferably humus-rich, acidic soil. Make sure the site is moist but well drained and that the plants’ upright stems are adequately sheltered.

In closing, before embarking on your snowy crusade, it is important to remember that, while each of these cultivars would make a beautiful addition to your garden, unless your intention is to create a fully white garden for purely dramatic effect, you should use their hue sparingly, lest you should rob your beds of the vibrancy that so many of us associate with an inviting and uplifting outside space.

By Josh Ellison

It can be a confusing affair deciding what varieties to use when planting hedges in your garden and the myriad of different species and their attributes can daunt the inexperienced gardener – we’ve all heard the nightmare stories of Leylandii disputes!

The first point you should consider is the purpose of the hedge itself - is it to provide shelter and privacy, or merely a neat border to the edges of your garden? Having decided that, what kind of environment does your garden enjoy? And what kind of events does it entertain that might dictate the formality of your hedge?

Security

If the purpose of the hedge is to provide security, then you will probably require an evergreen species, because let’s face it, security that’s only part time is not worth having. Unfortunately, now that we are getting into the spring season, the optimal time for planting root-balled evergreens has passed - late autumn to late winter is best for these. But fortunately most hedges are quite easy to grow, so while February cannot provide the ideal conditions you can still persevere with a little extra work and pot-grown specimens can be planted at most times of the year. Excellent evergreen hedges can be provided by both Taxus baccata, or Irish Yew as it is otherwise known, and Prunus laurocerasus (Laurel), but if you want the added security of thorns and prickles, try   (Firethorn) or Ilex (Holly). Crataegus monogyna (Hawthorn) and Rosa rugosa also make for thorny hedges with the added attraction of pretty flowers, but they aren’t evergreen.

Coastal/Exposed

Let’s next consider the location of your hedgerow and, if it is in a coastal region, then you should focus on plants which will withstand the salty air and exposed position. For these purposes I would recommend either Ilex or Escallonia, for formal and informal gardens respectively. Each of these cultivars can be expected to reach heights in excess of 3 metres and fortunately both are fairly hardy and should stand up well against the exposed conditions of a coastal situation and will be particularly grateful for the unadulterated sunshine that such a region promises. Another possibility, if you want an informal hedge that’s not too tall, is Fuchsia magellanica, which bears its pendant flowers all summer long.

Urban Hedges

Taxus baccata are extremely durable evergreens and are actually often sighted in urban churchyards. This cultivar is ideally suited for a city garden due to its versatile soil tolerance and its high resistance against urban pollution. As such, it can provide a reliable and secure boundary to your garden not to mention a dramatic backdrop upon reaching full maturity. For the most secular gardener, I could recommend no hedge more highly than the ‘Aureum’ variety of Ligustrum ovalifolium, due to its broad leaves, dense foliage and erect habit, it can provide an excellent level of security and privacy as a border. For a more decorative boundary you might consider Ribes sanguineum which will show tubular, rose tinted flowers as well as aromatic, soft green foliage.

Shade or Sun

Depending on your garden’s climate and also the desired position of your hedge, you’ll need to adapt your choices to how much sunlight will be available to them. As has been previously mentioned, Escallonia prefers a sunny spot, as does Pyracantha, in order to produce its masses of berries, and the brilliant yellow-flowered Forsythia.  Buxus and Ligustrum will tolerate shady areas and other shade-loving cultivars include Aucuba japonica and Symphoricarpos, which are evergreen and deciduous species respectively.

Formal vs Informal

Buxus is perhaps the most commonly chosen variety for formal garden hedges and will tolerate most soil types, showing curved elliptic foliage in emerald green - its lack of flowers making it an ideal candidate. Fagus sylvatica ‘Purpurea’ is another option - whilst deciduous, it does hold on to its leaves after they turn from purple to brown and for most of the winter, until the new leaves come in spring. Prunus laurocerasus, Ligustrum and Taxus are good for the formal garden too and are all durable and quite low maintenance.

 If, however, you’d prefer a less formal, flower based boundary then Crataegus monogyna will show small white blooms in the early summer followed by dark red fruits in the autumn. Escallonia is a vibrant plant that in summer will show rich crimson flowers and for the rest of the year will provide dark green foliage. Rosa rugosa has large white or pink blooms and red fruit in summer and autumn, and Symphoricarpus has small flowers in summer followed by large white or pink berries in autumn.

So, while establishing a hedge can seem a daunting prospect, it is only as easy a task as you make it, through your preparation and research. Obviously, the better suited your cultivars are to their environment, the greater your chances of success and I hope you find this a good starting point for your venture in hedging!

By Josh Ellison

The importance of soil types in the different areas of your garden cannot be overstated, as the ph level (alkalinity versus acidity), density and moisture retention can all serve as major factors in the success of the plants you try to cultivate. Aside from this you also have the fertility of your soils to consider - while the answer of ‘richer is better’ may seem the obvious one, this can be a dire misjudgement, as some cultivars will respond too positively to high levels of fertility and end up choking the more diminutive species you host.

So, how to find out what type of soil you have?

Dominant Soil Structure

The dominant soil type is characterised by whichever material makes up the majority of the soil’s mass in your garden, be that clay, sand, chalk or silt, and these in turn can be classified by the average size of their individual particles. However measuring the tenths and hundredths of millimetres of entire beds-worth of particles would be a ludicrously painstaking exercise - instead you can test your soil texture through some simple sculpting. The home cooked test goes something like:

Gather a small amount of soil in your palm and gradually drip water into it - you’ll be able to evaluate the soil’s primary type by how pliable and structurally sound it becomes once wet. You should drip only enough water to make the soil just stick to your hand. The highest density soils in ascending order are sand, loamy sand, silt loam, loam, clay loam, light clay and heavy clay, which can be defined by the different shapes they can maintain once wet.

Sand based soil will barely hold shape, though it should be able to form a pyramid in your hand, whereas loamy sand will be just pliable enough to hold a spherical shape.

Silt loam should form a solid cylinder though it will likely show cracks at the surface. Loam soil is classified as an equal dispersal of sand, clay and silt and will roll into a long cylinder but it will be extremely rigid, breaking easily. Clay loam will form a similar shape to loam, however, you should be able to bend this into a U shape without snapping the cylinder.

Clay based soils are the most water retentive due to the amount of air between its particles and as such light clay soil will be malleable enough to make a full circle out of it, however, heavy clay will do the same without showing cracks on its surface.

Acid or Alkaline?

So, that is a simple way to ascertain the structure of your soil, but another important component of your soil is the acidity. While some of the types mentioned above have a hard and fast rule on ph levels, such as sand, which is generally very acidic, and pure silt, which often contains a lot of alkaline, the best indicator you can use is a ph soil tester available at most DIY shops. Take small samples from different spots in your garden to get a true picture and follow the instructions on the pack.

However, for a do-it-yourself, basic idea of the soil’s acidity you can simply pour a sample into a cup and add half a cup of vinegar. If the solution fizzes this indicates that the soil is alkaline. If nothing happens, take some fresh soil, add half a cup of water and mix. Then add half a cup of baking soda and if the solution fizzes, your soil is acidic.

Now obviously each of the soil types has its benefits and detriments, some of which you will have to manipulate in order to the house the plants you want.

Sand, for example, will provide excellent drainage however this quality makes it poor at retaining minerals whilst clay is rich in minerals but its density often prevents the plant from taking best advantage of them.

Silt is a lighter and richer version of sand, however, its looseness makes it very susceptible to wind and water erosion and, while chalky soils provide excellent nitrogen levels, they cannot support acid inclined species because of it.

The happy medium of the lot is the classic loam, both extremely rich and with an excellent consistency for most conditions.

However, our previous four types can all be assisted, and even loam itself needs to be supplemented by organic matter. Organic matter will crumb clay soils and solidify sand basins, it will strengthen silts’ resistance to wind movement and, best of all, it can be free! An astute recycler can even tailor their compost to manipulate the ph level and on an even more precise level, which types of nutrients will permeate the soil.

Acidic soil can also become more neutralised by adding lime or wood ash, and alkaline soils can be helped by adding pine needles, if you have some handy.

Finally, here are a few suggestions for plants suitable for each of these soils types, to get you started:

Clay

Helenium

Aster

Weigela

Sand

Cytisus

Tulipa

Lavatera

Loam

Wisteria

Erythronium

Delphinium

Chalk

Syringa

Weigela

Dianthus

Silt

Mahonia

Phormium

Nicotiana alata

By Josh Ellison

The other day I watched the Jungle Book and while I enjoyed myself with all the abandon of the first viewing of my youth, the ending disturbed me unlike I remembered - how quick Mowgli was to abandon his jungle, the place he’d been raised.

The reason I’m citing a cartoon this week is due to the recent story that has hit the BBC homepage - that of my generation’s distance from nature and natural pursuits. In an increasingly, and somewhat frighteningly, electronic culture it seems that children are becoming more and more disjointed from the great outdoors and this has given rise to a new term coined by author Richard Louv  known as ‘Nature Deficit Disorder’. While not a clinically recognised term, the ramifications of such an absence of caring could be dire, as, logically, a lack of connection with nature at a young age will lead to a negligence of the natural world. Without those primary experiences such as tree climbing or fishing, or just plain lying on the grass, future generations may lack any empathy toward nature on any scale.  

Louv continued to say that children’s understanding and experience of nature had ‘changed radically… the polarity of the relationship has reversed…’ Even with our recent fixation on the ecological impact of our species on the planet, ‘today’s kids are aware of the global threats to the environment - but their physical contact, their intimacy with nature is fading.’

Unfortunately, the statistics are on Louv’s side, as a 2009 report by Natural England indicated that only a quarter of the number of the current child generation ever played in woodland, compared with that of their parents. In the wake of the author’s success, Louv founded the ‘Children and Nature Network’, as a means to reconnect families, and children in particular, to nature. The importance of such experiences is best described in the objectives of ‘Forest Schools’ - these are innovative places of learning that insist on exposure to the wilderness of the world with an eye to teach independence and respect for your fellow animals, leading eventually to a more assertive social interaction.

‘Play England’ is an organisation that works in conjunction with groups like ‘Children and Nature’ and their primary motivation is the accessibility of outdoor play areas for children. Their director, Cath Prisk, had this to say on the subject of outdoor play:

‘If I did not take my dog into the park two or three times a day, I would be considered a very bad dog owner…. Yet there… is more of a stigma that you have not made sure that your kids did their homework, than if you do not take your kids out to the park.’

This seems a fair comparison but one of the main contenders to this ideal is the mass paranoia that seems to plague modern parenting – the (maybe misplaced) idea that your child is more likely than not to fall victim to the outside world, and that in the controlled environment of the home, this cannot happen – better for them to be indoors where you can see them, even if they do sit in front of a screen all day!

So, the obvious solution for the parents is the continued and effective utilisation of the green spaces they can control, foremost of which is their gardens. The garden is a secure middle ground between a public space and your living room and here you can be assured of a healthy exposure to natural surroundings, not to mention wildlife, if you plan your space appropriately. As such, for the growing family it has become, not a luxury, but a necessity to take good care of your garden, in order that your children can shrug off the electronic manacles of the rest of their generation. Make your children invest some time in nature and they will begin to invest their love and opinion into it too. If ecology and care for the planet is a lesson we must learn, the lesson must begin at home.

By Josh Ellison

Green is the colour on the agenda this week and, with the last frosts of spring soon to be behind us, we can expect a lot more of it in the coming months. The primary connotation of green is, of course, its prolific occurrence in nature and this is the primary reason green is such a popular colour for interior design, as it evokes the presence of health and life. Its components blue and yellow, which denote cool and warmth respectively, thus green, itself strikes a balance between the two. 

Because of these connotations, green’s primary affect on your feelings tend to be of a calming nature, offering a sense of renewal and harmony whilst alleviating anxiety. Plant some of the species suggested below and see if they can offer you the same therapy.

Floral & Hardy’s Favourite Five Georgeous Green Flowers:

1. Alchemilla mollis

Also known by its colloquial name ‘Lady’s Mantle’, the Alchemilla family are perennials that have soft green foliage with serrated edges , and sprays of tiny lime green flowers in late summer and early autumn - ideal timing for that extra sprig of warmth that its yellow tinge will provide. This perennial prefers full sun though it will tolerate partial shade and can survive in practically any soil type provided that moisture is adequate.

2. Euphorbia robbiae

Euphorbia robbiae is classified as a very versatile evergreen perennial that can survive nearly any environment and soil, even dry and shady spots, although that can make it slightly invasive! It will provide attractive dark green foliage in the winter months and long-lasting, lime green flowers in the summer. However,  it is important to note that all parts of this cultivar are highly toxic when ingested.

3. Helleborous argutifolius

Argutifolius is an evergreen perennial that will grow to a mature height of around  one metre and will bear toothed, lance shaped leaves on stout stems. The flowers will bloom in large open clusters of a pale green hue. They will tolerate full shade and most soil types provided they are not acidic, but the key to successful cultivation is providing this plant with shelter as they will not survive the cold or strong winds.

4. Moluccella laevis

The ‘Bells of Ireland’ are bushy upright, annuals, maturing to around 90cm. Their foliage consists of bluntly toothed, small and oval shaped leaves. The tiny white true flowers are held within an exterior housing of petals that themselves are pale green and remain so throughout spring, summer and autumn. They will perform best in full sun with a moderately fertile soil, are indifferent to acidity and also to the type of  soil, whether clay, loam or sand.

5. Tulipa ‘Spring green’

Tulips are bulbous perennials with characteristic flowers that bloom in a wide range of colours, the ‘Spring green’ however is on our list for its titular tones and will grow to a mature height of 40cm with lance-shaped leaves and white petals, complemented by their green central swipe of colour. Plant the ‘Spring green’ about 15 centimetres deep in fertile, moist and well-drained soil. The acid content makes little difference to this cultivar, however, it is important to protect it from extreme conditions such as excessive wet and high winds.

Whilst I hope this list is helpful on your road to a greener garden, never forget that for every cultivar that makes it into print, there are a thousand others that didn’t. Thus, consider this a thread that only needs pulling in order to discover a world of variety in the colour green.

By Josh Ellison

The benefits of a water-based garden are numerous –from attracting wildlife, to providing an environment for different types of plants that you might otherwise not be able to accommodate. However, you may wish to build a pond in your garden and the presence of small children or animals does not permit it.

Bog gardens are an excellent alternative in this respect, as flooding deep enough to pose a threat of drowning would not sustain many of its staple cultivars.

You could opt to fill in an existing leaky pond and plant it up, but if you are creating a bog garden from scratch, you should aim for an area that gets full sun, although some pockets of shade are acceptable. The size is entirely up to you of course, but you should dig down at least 45cms to allow plants to form good root systems. 

If you’ve decided to convert a section of lawn for your bog’s location, then you can save on lining materials by recycling the existing turf. Simply cut sections using a spade and lay them butted up, grass side down into the bottom of the hole. 

If this is not the case then you can either use standard butyl or plastic liner as you might in a pond, or, if you don’t mind getting your hands dirty (which as a gardener I assume you don’t), then you could line in a more traditional manner with wet clay. If you are using pond liner, pierce it at every metre with a pitchfork to allow for drainage and weigh the edges down with bricks to prevent it shifting underfoot, but whatever the material, your liner should fall at least a few centimetres below the rim of the bog so that excess water can escape over the top.  (Don’t trim it though until you’ve partially filled with soil, as the weight of the soil will pull it down in the hole).

Put a layer of gravel in the bottom and then you can back-fill with your excavated soil after removing any weeds and large stones. If your soil is poor you can add a little organic matter to give your plants a good start.

Finally, you come to the key ingredient of the bog - water. Ideally a bog should be filled with rainwater to ensure a minimum of detracting chemicals, so, if you have a rain barrel or a friend with one, now is the time to use it. If this is too impractical then regular tap water will suffice, however, it will be most effective if given a few days to stand and evaporate its chemical element.

With your lining, base soil and water established, you ought to allow a day or so for the soil to settle and then crack straight on with the planting phase. Below you’ll find a small group of our favourite suitable candidates for this purpose.

Floral & Hardy’s Five Favourite Bog Plants:

Astilbe

Astilbe is a clump-forming herbaceous perennial with feathery flowers of pink, white or red in summer. Its young foliage has a bronzy appearance turning dark green through summer and autumn, while those flower heads will turn brown and remain attractive later in the year.

Darmera peltata

The ‘Umbrella Plant’ is a vigorous perennial that forms large clumps of rounded green, and then pink, foliage that will show in summer and autumn respectively. They also produce clusters of pink, star-shaped flowers in the spring.

Gunnera manicata

The ‘Giant Rhubarb’ is a large, bold, herbaceous perennial sporting huge green leaves for most of the  year, and red russet blooms throughout summer alongside its Christmas hued fruits. A spectacular, architectural plant, but suited only to the larger garden  as it can reach a height of 2.5metres in a single season and a spread, over time, of 4 metres!

Ligularia dentata ‘Desdemona’

‘Desdemona’ will bloom with daisy-like, bright sunny orange flowers with lance shaped petals springing from a deep red inflorescence. Its foliage will appear bronze, purple and green from spring to autumn and its colours should tower around a metre above the waterline of your bog.

Zantedeschia aethiopica

The ‘Arum Lily’ can be a deciduous or semi-green perennial forming emerald-green, lance-like leaves around a hooded white flower with funnel appearance. These will bloom in early summer are followed by orange fruit in the autumn. 

By Josh Ellison

As is often the way in England, our snow has waited for the false security of nearly spring to… spring upon us! However, not to be caught out, we’ve prepared a list of bulbs that will be available to buy soon, to be your first strike back against our belligerent and unpredictable climate and provide the promise of a colourful summer to come.

Floral and Hardy’s Top Five Summer Flowering Bulbs:

Acidanthera

Looking a bit like a small Gladioli, this neat white bloom is ideally situated close to a path or border so you can enjoy the scent of their flowers more conveniently. However, due to the exoticism of its endemic environment, you should refrain from planting too early as the brisk springs we receive can really hurt its chances of becoming established. So, wait until May at the earliest and plant them in rich, sun washed soil. You’ll want to plant these bulbs 4-6 inches apart and 4 inches deep, though if you plant a little deeper you ensure extra protection against the fabled false spring. These bulbs need to be lifted in autumn and in order to ensure healthy bulbs for future seasons the care you give it whilst in storage is very important. As with any plant matter, storing in a heated area is a recipe for rot or bacteria to infect it and Acidanthera is no different. Store it in a cool, dry area like the shed or cool greenhouse.

Allium giganteum

The Allium is a lovely low maintenance bulb that will pay dividends with huge rounded heads of starry mauve flowers, if planted correctly. Firstly, you should ensure the soil is well drained by lacing it with grit and, secondly, that it is nutrient rich - easily accomplished with a well devised compost. Last week we talked about cold frame and greenhouse gardening and these make for an ideal environment for the giganteum bulb in the propagation stage. You want to sow the bulbs at the beginning of spring or alternatively remove the offsets in autumn. When deciding how to plant them, allow 7 inches between each bulb and the same in terms of depth.

Convallaria

Lily of the Valley is another bulb requiring little care past its induction to the garden, which should include a rich, fertile soil, preferably composed of a combination of humus and chalk, and perhaps a spatter of silt to ensure good drainage. Due to its clump forming habit, this species makes for excellent ground cover and as such should be one of the first bulbs you should consider in numbers to create an aesthetically pleasing, and low maintenance, carpet effect over the bare soils of spring. Allow a 7 inch depth and spread between each plant and enjoy their sweetly scented blooms.

Gladiolus

Made famous by Dame Edna, one of the smaller bulbs on our list, but certainly one of the most colourful, the Gladiolus, requires between 4-5 inches of depth and space to survive in an English garden. However, make sure they’re planted well after the last frost and as an extra precaution you can lay down an extra mulch around the plants. If you do opt for this extra layer, do not be alarmed if the plant takes longer to breach the surface as this is merely an indicator of the mulches effectiveness as an insulator. They will need to be lifted in autumn, like the Acidantheras, unless you live somewhere very mild, but their bold, bright blooms make it worth the trouble.

Tigridia

Producing extremely exotic-looking, colourful, speckled, flowers this Mexican bulb should be planted in a sandy, fertile soil in full sun to a depth of around 4 inches. As they are quite tender, once they have flowered, I would recommend moving the bulbs from their outdoor planting positions into storage in pure sand regulated at around 10 degrees centigrade. As always, avoid planting out again until the last frost has cleared as this can inhibit the bulb’s ability to establish roots.

By Josh Ellison

Clematis are one of the most beautiful, versatile and, subsequently, popular additions to the British garden. Due to their ability to grow vertically on walls and trellis, in containers, or horizontally entwining with other plants and shrubs, it is no surprise that, once you have this cultivar established, you should want to maintain and ensure its growth for years to come.

There are many reasons for regularly pruning your clematis, not the least of which is their aesthetic, which will be greatly diminished by a lack of maintenance - without trimming the stems and shoots would grow tangled and bare and the majority of the plant’s beautiful flowers would begin blooming well above eye level. Aside from this, some varieties of Clematis can also be mildly invasive and so severe negligence could lead to the suffocation and demise of other less vigorous species in the garden..

There are basically three main groups when it comes to pruning:

Group One

Group one Clematis flower in the spring and consist of those varieties generally possessing the lightest foliage and smallest blooms, although this is more than made up for by their numbers. This group includes varieties such as ‘Montana’, ‘Macropetala’ and ‘Alpina’ and all are characterised by flowers that bloom on the growth of the previous year. Only if necessary, pruning should occur immediately after the season’s flowering has finished, to remove any spent flowers that might inhibit future growth. Leave it any later than this and you won’t get any flowers next year. However the older, thicker wooded stems of the plants can be cut back with abandon, ideally to just a couple feet above their base. It may take some time for the plant to recover, however, and you should allow a year for newer flowers to show through, if they do not, assume that the stems were too old to rejuvenate and begin planting a new specimen.

Group Two

These cultivars generally comprise large, showy blooms and flower from late spring to early summer. They include varieties such as the striped ‘Nelly Moser’...

... and the beautifully double ‘Vyvyan Pennell’, and sometimes produce a second flourish later on in the year. 

It is best to prune this group at the end of February or start of March by cutting them back by about two thirds, or to around a metre high, just above the bud ideally, but you can always start at the top of the plant and work your way down in order to ensure precision. The new shoots of this season will sprout from of those of the previous growths and so it is essential you be consistent with your pruning to ensure healthy growth year by year.

Group Three

The pruning method and timing for group three is similar to group two, except that, as they flower later, you can be a bit more severe - all the stems should be trimmed to pairs of plump buds around 30cms above the soil. Group three clematis varieties include ‘Viticella’, ‘Orientalis’ and ‘Tangutica’.

A philosophy that is indiscriminate from one pruning group to the other, however, is the necessity of your initial maintenance - if the plant is a new addition i.e. it is without a few well established stems then it should be pruned thoroughly regardless of its variety to about 30cms above ground level. This will encourage multiple stems which can be trained onto supports to give a good distribution of flowers. If you wish to structure the plant vertically in an independent position it is important that you provide continuous support for the stems with canes or obelisks.

So, you see it’s not really complicated. Look after your Clematis and you can be rewarded with masses of colourful blooms throughout the year as, with careful selection, you can have a clematis in flower whatever the season.

By Josh Ellison

Fortunately we’ve already seen the first snows of the year and can soon expect the last frost to fall, thus signalling the dawn of spring and all the colourful flowers that will bring. Our editorial, centred on the application of specific hues in the garden, continues this week with the vibrant colour orange.

Here are just five of our favourite orange blooms:

Alstroemeria ‘Orange King’

The ‘Peruvian Lily’, as it is otherwise known, is a fully frost hardy, tuberous species of perennial, best suited to the middle of the borders in your garden. These plants will show rich, vibrant, exotic-looking orange blooms in mid to late summer. They are also excellent to take cuttings from and will propagate readily if planted correctly. They prefer moist but well drained and fertile soil, ideally situated in full sun or partial shade. It is important to mulch them regularly in their first two years and ensure that this mulch is dry during the frosty season to prevent root damage. Unfortunately this cultivar is not complete with a scent, but they are good for cutting to take into the house and do last well in water.

Azalea ‘Gibraltar’

The Gibraltar variety is an upstanding deciduous shrub with a spherical bushy habit, good autumn colour and scented, early summertime flowers of a vivid fiery hue with frilled petals. Expect a spread of 1.3m high and wide if the correct growing conditions are provided, namely a moist acidic soil with a rich humus content. While the plant is fully hardy, it should still be planted in a sheltered spot. Partial shade is preferable and its shallow rooting makes your vigilance against frost essential to its survival, so mulch around the plant with ericaceous compost to protect it. This cultivar is ideal as a border plant or on sloping ground although it will perform equally well against a wall or trellis.

Campsis ‘Madame Galen’

The ‘Trumpet Vine’, as it’s otherwise known, is a perennial and deciduous climbing vine from which you can expect vigorous growth and attractive foliage. As the name suggests the blooms of this plant will be trumpet shaped and will show a rich orange in late summer and early autumn. Though this plant is a climber, it may require a year or two to mature properly and thus additional support in the way of trellis is recommended. Fortunately, the Madame is not especially picky about her soil types as she will tolerate most levels of acidity and combinations of clay, loam or sand, provided you provide her with a sunny spot, preferably a west facing wall to aid with her climbing habit.

Crocosmia ‘Zambesi’

Crocosmia is a deciduous, cormous perennial that forms clumps of lance-shaped green foliage and tubular, deep orange inflorescences on tall arching stems in late summer to mid-autumn. Similarly to the Madame, Zambesi  copes with virtually any soil type provided it is well drained and protected from frost - this protection can be assured by draining the soil thoroughly. A sunny or partially shaded position is best and, if sheltered, they will stand erect and not need staking. To ensure healthy growth, divide the clumps in spring so as to avoid encroachment ,or an imbalance of nutrients and sun, between specimens and pre-emptively prepare the soil with a fertiliser or humus to provide them with a good start.

Potentilla ‘Tangerine’

This is a small, deciduous, ‘grow-anywhere’ shrub with orange-yellow, saucer-shaped flowers which will show over a long flowering season, throughout summer and autumn, alongside small grey-green leaves. It has a bushy upright habit, and is a very low maintenance plant that will thrive in the majority of soils, aspects and location, but with best long term results in partial sun and moist ground. After 1-5 years of growing you can expect Tangerine to reach full maturity with an approximate spread equal to its height of 1.5m.

By Josh Ellison

- How to say it with flowers

Since Juliet first lamented, and earlier still, all manner of flowers, trees and shrubs have been used as a form of language due either  to their appearance, or their meaning to the beholder - symbolic of every emotion and concept we could think of and one of the most frequent characters in all English literature and theatre, even if they had no lines. Also, flowers have been the most common adornment for the home and person, appearing on all manner of clothing, hairstyle, furniture and pottery.

The Greeks had a strong belief in the holistic and medicinal qualities of certain flowers, even when there were no logical grounds, aside from myths, to assert the claim. For example, the Orchid was very closely linked with fertility and as such it was believed that if a soon-to-be mother chewed its petal then the child she bore would a girl, whereas if the father were to partake then the infant would be a male.

However, over hundreds of years of cultivation, (linguistic that is), the language of flowers was honed, and there came a time when one could convey whole letters through meticulous selection of the right bouquet.

In the Victorian era, when poetry and works of art were far more prevalent as tools to woo a potential partner, the romancer would often combine bouquets of flowers based on their etymology in order to construct a visual poem for the object of their desire.

It is from this purpose that the language of flowers stems, and there are entire dictionaries available online or in bookshops that further detail the modern day translations of these connotations from the most obscure, such as Daisy, Hyacinth and Ivy which suggested innocence, sincerity and fidelity respectively, to the Forget-me-not whose Victorian counterpart is somewhat obvious to the average observer. However, love is the consistent theme, with various flowers branded to accommodate its many forms, like the Yellow Tulip representing the feeling of being hopelessly in love. A striped carnation often represented unrequited love and a subsequent apology to the admirer for the situation, while a pure red carnation was a symbol of admiration of the recipient. More remarkable perhaps is that poisonous flowers would often be used too, as a warning, such as the Monkshood (Aconitum), which suggested to the recipient that they were in imminent danger.

The tradition of symbolic bouquets survives today through one of the Victorian eras other great components, the Christian faith. It is from these sensibilities that stems the existence of bridal bouquets and funeral wreaths. While we’ve already mentioned some of the more obscure connotations of the language, the most prominent legacy that it’s left to us is the presence of flowers in our religious ceremonies. Asphodels are still common at gravesides as they encouraged feelings of regret and of mourning, and lilies still feature regularly as part of the palette of a wedding though only in white, symbolic of purity.

Finally, there is that Valentine’s day institution, the red rose, which represents the most passionate of infatuations. However, as that auspicious date looms imminently upon our horizon, I would try here to encourage some originality and perhaps with this guide you can surprise the object of your affections and  state in a bouquet what can’t be said in words.

By Josh Ellison

Unlike our previous piece about choosing the appropriate compost bin, the decision to invest in a greenhouse is an altogether larger investment and the greenhouse you choose will be dictated largely by the parameters of space and budget. You also need to think about what you will be using the greenhouse for, as there are other factors that will also take priority in the design of your greenhouse, such as temperature control and stability.

Hot Greenhouse

Generally a hot greenhouse will maintain a minimum temperature of around 65 degrees Fahrenheit, while this temperature can be increased to suit your needs, this greenhouse is generally favoured by gardeners in a cold climate or with a desire to raise really tropical species. However, in moderate climes this temperature can be regulated by careful ventilation to make best use of the local sunlight.

Warm Greenhouse

A warm greenhouse, as its named would suggest, caters for a much larger variety of plants and can be used to house more tender species brought in from the garden over winter, or for raising half-hardy plants.  You should be careful to plant with an eye for space though, as it can become a temptation to house many cultivars that may not require the extra attention and will thrive just as easily outdoors!

Cool Greenhouse

The cool greenhouse is the artificial answer to frost damage, ideally suited for the incubation of hardy seeds and saplings until they have a chance to germinate or form a solid root foundation. Really a form of training wheels before its charges are ready for exterior planting.

Once you’ve decided what you’ll be growing you can look at the other deciding factors. Where size is concerned, the cost is relative and so there are a variety of designs for the shape and dimensions of a greenhouse.

Types of Greenhouse

The detached ‘Quonset’ type is the most common design in commercial horticulture and agriculture, however their size and shape is perhaps not very suitable for the domestic garden. More commonly seen is the basic rectangular model with pitched roof, although they can come in both very decorative, and very basic styles.

While the simple lean-to design isn’t perhaps commercially viable, and therefore not a common sight at gardening warehouses, it is very practical for the hobbyist, particularly one seeking a heated space. It can be attach to the walls of any structure or even a freestanding wall on your boundary, and the replacement of glass on one side with sturdier materials will make it far more heat efficient.  Similar to the lean-to, a furrow roofed greenhouse attaches to a permanent structure whilst sacrificing an interior wall. These designs are particularly suited to areas with heavy rainfall as their furrows can attach directly to the guttering of a house and with a little ingenuity can feed an irrigation system below.

Greenhouses are available as either permanent or collapsible structures that can be stored when not in use. Personally I would recommend the collapsible variety, as the materials required for a detached greenhouse of any longevity make the whole project rather costly, not to mention the convenience of having a greenhouse you can erect at whatever time and location you deem fit.

Of the permanent varieties, the customisable, the do-it-yourself nature of greenhouses is one of their greatest attractions. It feeds the constructive instinct inherent to any gardener and all of these designs can be tailored by way of structural materials such as timber or aluminium, glass or plastic, to make them more personal to you. Each of these materials has their own characteristics which should be considered based on the garden they will inhabit - while wood framed is traditional, it is, of course, prone to rot and is a much heavier material to erect. Aluminium tends to be more expensive, but will not rot and is much more lightweight. Glass can easily get broken, but plastic will degrade over time. So, the choice is yours!

Of course, if a full size greenhouse seems too great a commitment to you, then there is always the option of cold frame storage. Typically providing anywhere between 5 and 10 square feet and sheltered growing space these low-level boxes are favoured due to the fact that they are easily and simply constructed and many of the building materials can even be salvaged - if you know of a neighbour or friend who is having windows replace or double glazing fitted, for example, then you can offer your gratitude and perhaps some cash to the builders to ensure that the old windows leave their frames in one piece. These glass sheets can then be used for your cold frame’s lights.

So, as you can see, greenhouses can be your doorway to growing cultivars otherwise unsuitable for your environment or, failing that, it can just provide a shelter for more delicate plants over the winter period. But do bear in mind the added costs of a heated greenhouse as many temperate climates are still too frigid to support a warm greenhouse on their own and also, the smaller the space, the easier it is to keep warm.

By Josh Ellison

With the New Year, the Royal Horticultural Society ushered in a new batch of contestants for the annual ‘Britain in Bloom’ competition, where hopeful communities from all over England compete to be honoured as champions of Britain’s ecology. 

The objective of this RHS phenomenon is to encourage public contribution to the natural aesthetic and environmental consciousness of the country, and the three categories, against which finalists are marked, reflect this. In this year’s competition, centred on the propagation of Britain’s wildflowers, of over 1000 potential winners, only 79 finalist have been considered. Thought of by many as one of the most significant environmental campaigns in England, this year’s entrants have collectively planted over 400,000 new trees and shrubs, alongside 21,000,000 new flowers and bulbs, in more than a thousand different communities nationwide.

Colloquially referred to as ‘The Bloom’, the competition began back in 1963, following the French example ‘Fleurissement’, and was founded on three guiding principles: Horticultural Excellence; Environmental Responsibility; and Community Participation. In 2002 the Bloom became a vassal of the RHS, who have been overseeing it ever since. A judging process that spans the whole of summer ensures commitment of the highest standard, even once the judge’s opinions are gathered, and that this be a labour of love and not glory. There are two levels to this process, the regional and the national judging stages - generally 70 communities qualify from the regionals to national level to be honoured for their achievement.

Last year’s winners are based on a variety of different townships and cities, based on size and their ecological locations, specifically urban vs suburban and countryside vs coastal communities. The beauty of the project is that there are tasks for every level of interest or commitment - the project is judged based on the overall cleanliness and meticulousness that can only be achieved with persistent effort. To get involved you can access the RHS website to find a project local to you that will include responsibilities such as events planning to raise funds or awareness, to litter picking, to wildlife conservation.  

The triumphs of the project are rife across the UK - the city of Nottingham has been practically transformed from its past perceptions as a crime capital, by the introduction and continued success of over 160 neighbourhood gardening groups who have been working in conjunction with the RHS since the start of the millennium.

The benefits of such a project are far reaching and numerous and deserve such recognition. The initiative encourages communal labour for the personal betterment i.e. the improvement of safety and beauty within a shared environment. It encourages a group psychology benevolent to our domestic ecology, as well hard work on behalf of your fellow man and, by including families, it teaches a civic and natural responsibility to future generations. Aside from this, it provides national incentive to take notice of our environment, one which we ourselves adopted from our French neighbours and can hope, in future, to encourage in other nations. It’s at the very least a baby step to increased environmental awareness.

By Josh Ellison

Continuing our weekly piece on the varying colour schemes of a garden and how best to complement and consolidate them, this week the colour is pink – a colour that will bring a soft, warm glow to any border. The paler pinks can also be good in gardens used mainly in the evening, or in shade, as they will stand out well in gloomy conditions.

1. Camellia williamsii ‘Debbie’

This large evergreen shrub will provide a rich, glossy, emerald foliage all year round and clear pink, double blooms in the spring time. The flower is a dense, almost spherical shape with showy petals. For best results one should guard ‘Debbie’ from factors like extreme cold and hard winds. Avoid planting in east facing positions as morning sun on frosted buds will cause damage, but she will grow in full sun or partial shade. Covering the foliage and new buds with fleece in the colder months can be beneficial. The stem and roots of the flower are fairly hardy and thus will require little preparation before planting - the key element is the soil, which should be loose and well drained, and possessed of an acidic Ph. level.

2. Nerine bowdenii ‘Pink Triumph’

This bulbous perennial is characterised by upright, leafless stems that will produce open umbels of hot pink, funnel-shaped flowers, generally in groupings of seven, late in the summer to early autumn. The ideal planting conditions for the Triumph are composed of a medium density, well-drained soil that is fairly fertile and lies in full sun. This drainage becomes essential in face of frost, which can undermine the specimens full hardiness to colder conditions - ensure regular mulching in this instance.

3. Paeonia lactiflora ‘Sarah Bernhardt’

A deciduous perennial plant, the Paeonia will show attractive, dark green foliage from spring to autumn and very large, pale pink, bowl-shaped blooms in early summer in the form of frilled petals and a fragrant centre. This variety will thrive in a rich, dense, fertile soil, regardless of its acidity, and should be provided with full sun and regular mulching to ensure good drainage. It is important not to disturb once planted, so don’t try to increase you stock by division! You should also note that all parts of this cultivar can upset the digestive system if consumed, so it is ill advised to plant them in an area frequented by household pets.

4. Rosa ‘Pink Perpetue’

This is a vigorous rose with a climbing habit and as such is best trained to a wall or pergola. It will yield deep pink blooms from mid-summer to early autumn and thick foliage year round if given the correct conditions. Rosa prefers a rich and well-drained soil, the obvious shelter that a wall guarantees and full sunlight. While the Perpetue is suited to most types of soil content and Ph. level, it is vulnerable to a number of different pests which may include Caterpillars, Spider mites and Leaf hoppers. You should also watch for signs of disease, particularly Mildew, Black Spot disease and Rose Rust and treat promptly.

5. Sedum spectabile‘Brilliant’

This perennial produces large, dense clusters of diminutive, star-shaped blooms from late summer to mid-autumn. These will form at the crests of thick, succulent stems littered with elliptic grey-green leaves while the flowers themselves will be bright pink with darker centres. Plant in full sun, a moderately fertile soil and make sure it’s well drained.

By Josh Ellison

Etymology, or the origin of words, is a fascinating subject, particularly where plants are concerned. Oft named after the discoverer’s love interest, or for the characters of fables and fairy tales. Or perhaps their origins are just anonymous and lost among the many languages that have tried to classify them. The quintessential English flower, the Rose, for example, made famous by Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet for the irrelevance of its etymology - perhaps it was the famous play that so discouraged any real research into the titular blooms origins for so long. It is widely believed to be endemic to the time of the Greek empire, supposedly most prevalent in areas such as Thrace and Macedon, in modern Bulgaria and Romania, although reports also claim it had a footing in the Persian Empire, but the origins of the actual name are lost in time.

However, the history of the names of many plants can be traced back and it was commonplace to name a cultivar based on the myths and pantheon of older civilizations, and the Greeks, who are famous for their tales of adventure and divinity, would often name flowers for the characteristics they shared with the heroes of their stories. For example, the name Narcissus, a downturned flower often occurring in numbers near bodies of water, comes from the legend of the titular Greek hunter and describes a man so beautiful that Nemesis, the embodiment of retribution against the vain, tricked him with his own reflection in a pool, causing him to bend over the water and become ensnared by his own good looks, eventually causing his death.

Aconitum, or ‘Monkshood’s’, origins spring from both the hooded shape of its flowers, but also the exploits of two of the ancient world’s greatest heroes, Herakles and Theseus. It is said that Herakles was sent forth to the underworld to claim one of Hades’ beasts as a labourer, but that once they set foot again upon the earth, the beast bled into the ground and from that sprung the first Monkshood shoot.

The Hyacinth, whose name was established in the late 16th century, is said to originate from the Greek ‘jacinth’ which referenced a precious blue stone, probably sapphire, and also a fable of the sun god Apollo. Supposedly Apollo struck up an affair with a younger man and quite by accident slew him and now, as a result, each of these flowers has its petals stained by Apollo’s tears with a commemorative ‘ai, ai’ as a mark of his grief.

The common Nasturtium derives its name from the Latin phraseology 'nasitortium' which literally translates to 'nose-twist', no doubt due to its spicily fragrant blooms and leaves, while Perlagoniums get their name from the Latin ‘pelargos’ meaning stork, for the beak-like shape of the seed head. ‘Impatiens’ is simply Latin for impatient, referring to the violent discharge of its seeds.

However, it is not only the translation from their Latin or Greek equivalents that make plant names so crucial to understanding their history, the syntax of the words themselves also defines them. For example, if a plant is applied a masculine in the native language by which it was originally classified then this carries over into the King's English. Generally plants with titles ending 'us' can be safely considered a masculine species whereas, similar to the Spanish and Italian branches of Latin, a name ending in 'a' would indicate a feminine species. An example would be 'Belladonna', and, although the current and archaic translation of this differ slightly as, while we know the genus commonly as ‘deadly nightshade’, its original form was 'lady of war', thus raising not too dissimilar connotations.

Over the course of the 18th century, one Carl Linnaeus of Sweden developed a reputation as the father of modern taxonomy by establishing the now ruling conventions of plant naming. By Linnaeun standards a plant would be named first for its genus and secondly by species. However, as common sense dictated these names were usually relative to a) The discoverer of the species or b) A physical description of the specimen, it is rumoured the Linnaeus himself named the ugly little weed, Siegesbeckia, after the surname of one of his fiercest critics!

So as you can see, it’s all in the name!

By Josh Ellison

Champion Trees - we have your winners…

There is a national tree register, whose patron is the Prince of Wales, which contains a compilation and maintained a list around 4,000 of the most superlative trees in the British Isles. The trees are judged based on a variety of different attributes, such as height and age.

The subject recently became prominent due to the outcry against the felling of one of Britain’s most elderly Caucasian Wing Nuts due to a bad case of trunk rot that could endanger future spectators with the possibility of collapse.  The 38.2 m tree, planted in 1845 in Weymouth’s Abbotsbury Subtropical Gardens, is a sad loss and we’d like to raise awareness about the more prominent members of the list of what are aptly named the ‘Champion trees’.

So let us begin with those champions of the tallest stature.

Our gold medallist is a Common Lime tree situated at the Edenhall Estate in Cumbria, standing at over 45 metres tall with an average trunk girth of 408 cm. 

Our second place in the height category belongs to a European Beech in Gloucestershire measuring at 43 metres. However, on the world scale, the tallest in Britain are dwarfed thrice over by a Redwood on the Pacific coast. 

The giant Redwood in California’s national park was aptly named ‘Hyperion’ by its discoverers in 2006 and stands at over 110 metres tall! Some Redwoods are so large that roads have been built through their living trunks!

Next we have the category of girth, or trunk thickness and this was a closer contest with our winner only doing so by a margin of a few centimetres - a Sessile Oak in Cheshire with an average trunk thickness of 1401 cm. The silver medal goes to a French Oak whose home is in the Great Witley Estate in Worcestershire.

While not tourist attractions directly, these champions of their kin would make for an excellent pit stop were you to find yourself in their proximity - probably best to see them now before they face the same fate as Dorset’s ancient Wingnut!

Or, if you have a particularly large or ancient tree, you can use the Tree Register’s online measuring form to find out if it should take its place among the champions!

By Josh Ellison