There are fewer habits a gardener can develop that are of greater benefit than composting. Dedication and persistence are rewarded with a cost effective means to fertilise your garden, not to mention a practical use for your garden and household green waste. So, this week’s editorial will focus on how to begin your own compost areas and what (and what not!) to include in the base ingredients.

There are a number of ready-made options for bins available on the market, but, if you go the homemade route, then there’s the question of how to store your compost so that it doesn’t end up an unsightly pile on the lawn. The simplest type of bin you can make yourself is an enclosed cylinder or cube of chicken wire supported by cane or posts, however, this will not be as effective as boxed in compost as it will not contain the heat required to encourage bacterial decomposition. Aside from this, once the material rots down and becomes finer, it will begin to leak through the holes in the wire.

To remedy this you may wish to take another DIY route and construct your own rustic bin from (preferably) reclaimed timber, or even old wooden pallets. Ideally you would have two, or even three, such bins, so that one can ‘cook’ while the other is still being added to. A piece of old carpet on the top will keep the heat in, whilst loose boards slotted into the front of the bin will allow for easy turning of the heap to encourage even composting.

Or, if you’re feeling particularly ingenious, you might devise a self-turning composter from a pair of old rubbish bins. Placing the smaller of your two cans inside the large, begin your compost pile with a few inches of brown matter (shredded newspaper and cardboard are excellent for this) followed by a fistful of soil and a few inches more of green matter (fruit and vegetable waste or direct plant matter). Give the whole pile a few seconds under the hose and be sure to drill holes in the base of both bins so the compost does become asphyxiated and anaerobic. The inner barrel should be then well shaken twice a month and this will save you the labour of a pitchfork, whilst turning your compost effectively.

You can compost most of your green garden waste, though not pernicious weeds, nor any diseased material, (which is best burned), and all your kitchen green waste. Generally speaking most conventional composting methods cannot cope with meat or fish as they cannot rot them down efficiently and they may also attract vermin.  It is also quite important to add a mix of materials. A compost bin containing just grass cuttings, for example, would soon become a slimy mess! Interlacing the layers with shredded newspaper is a good way of keeping the compost sweet. If you have access to horse manure, this will also make a valuable contribution to your heap (but never use it fresh on your garden as it will be too acidic).

Other composting containers include the microbe composter, a small indoor waste bin that you lace with a dose of Bokashi microbes, making it a cheaper means of breaking down your compost, not relying on the use of electronic heat. 

The wormery, another naturally based method, utilises earthworms to reprocess the apple cores of yesterday to benefit the orchards of tomorrow.

There are of course more efficient and time saving composters, however the price tag is relative to the convenience they provide. There are the top of the line robotic composters, for example, that regulate both the heat and mixing of your waste automatically. The combined effect of extra heating and aeration means these suckers can churn through five pounds of matter a day on average, be it the fish, dairy or meat - materials many conventional composters struggle to break down. However aside from the initial expenditure remember you’ll also have to deal with the extra energy cost per month.

So there it is – the choice is yours. But whichever method you choose, when you spread that beautiful sweet, dark compost, rest assured your garden will thank you for it, with much improved flowering and produce yields, so it will be worth it!

By Josh Ellison

The Royal Horticultural Society have recently published a public interest story concerning the rising prices and popularity of allotment gardening and you may be shocked to find out how plot space translates into wallet space.

The earliest renderings of officiated allotments in the UK can be traced to Birmingham of the 18th Century - some of the plots featured in an engraving made in 1732 still survive today. However, due to a lack of royal endorsement, some believe the oldest allotments to be those of St. Anne in Nottingham, an accolade later award to the Wiltshire free gardens located in greater Somerford which was relinquished by the king, on the behest of the local parish, from the Enclosure Acts of that century. However, the rest of the country was not so favourably treated and as such the number of allotments available to the peasantry was greatly reduced. This called for the introduction of allotment legislation in order to cope with the high demand for domestic vegetables.

With the new legislation, the popularity of allotments grew steadily with several hundred thousand established by the turn of the 20th century, spiking at the outbreak of World War One at 1.5M and after tailing off slightly in the subsequent peace time, again reaching 1.4M in 1941. Remaining at over a million until the end of the decade the number of plots began a steady decline, to 600,000 in the late sixties and falling below half a million by 1977, while paradoxically demand for them only grew. By 1997 the numbers had fallen to just over a quarter of a million plots with an estimated 44,000 not in use and 13,000 plotters on waiting lists. Taking their cue from the ecological awakening of the late nineties the number of allocated allotments began to rise and by 2008 had reach over 330,000. However, while the number of plot failed to even double, the number of those waiting had more than quadrupled to 100,000.

If I had had £22 to spend back in 97’, rather than a pocket full of lego men, I could have afforded an average plot, perhaps not within biking distance or on one train, but somewhere there would have been a waiting list I could get on. The basic contractual agreement of a plot, is a yearly fixed rate per rod ( a rod is equivalent  to thirty square yards) and most will stipulate a minimum number of rods per plot. However, the Lego King would’ve found his treasury wanting were he to rent in certain boroughs and counties of today - Staffordshire’s Cannock Chase for example, more than doubled their prices in the last year to over £100 per full plot. Worse still you have Berkshire’s own Runnymede demanding 55p a square metre which, when you consider the minimum parcel is approx. 125 sqm, certainly adds up.

If that hasn’t managed to put you off though, then you should apply for a plot through your local council who can be contacted through the appropriate governmental portal.

And I don’t use ‘should’ lightly - with the continued urbanisation that has run rampant since trains first went ‘choo’, the availability of green spaces will only dwindle. For those of us who suffer most from this blight, allotments are fast becoming the only hope of environmental relief to our concrete jungles, not to mention  a valuable source of nutritious and flavoursome organic fruit and vegetables, a place to meet people and socialise, and, if nothing else, an antidote to a growing distrust in our corporate trough fillers!

By Josh Ellison

This week we are continuing our colour coding of the garden, so if yellow is your thing, we bring you a host of butter-toned cultivars. Yellow is considered, in psychological circles, to affects one’s self esteem, specifically to trigger confidence or anxiety depending on the way in which it’s presented. I think most people would probably say though that yellow is a cheerful colour that lifts the spirits on a dull day in the garden. It’s not called ‘mellow yellow’ for nothing!

1. Daffodil

Probably the most famous (as its yellow trumpets certainly epitomise spring for many people) not to mention widespread flower of this colour, Narcissus is a hardy perennial endemic to Asia, North Africa and Europe. It is also one of the most varied species in that, while the numbers of its wild and natural cultivars are slowly becoming more refined, its popularity leads specialists to cultivate and breed new varieties nearly every year. Suffice to say, you’ll be hard pressed to find a more accommodating bloom due to the constant tweaking that has prepared this plant for the many environments it must inhabit.

2. Forsythia

Named for their discoverer William Forsyth (not to be confused with the writer Forsythe!) this deciduous shrub will regularly grow to heights of three metres and has ovate, green foliage, complemented by the iron grey bark that coats the limbs and branches. In early spring, they produce masses of small flowering blooms similar in shape to the trumpet lily, succeeded by dry, wing shaped seed pods that have been claimed to contain lactose, but this is yet to be confirmed. Due to its height, best effect is generally achieved by wall planting, thus providing its upright habit with the support needed to show off the stunning flower display.

3. Fremontedendron

Otherwise known as the ‘Flannel Bush’ and so named for the densely arranged stellate hairs that adorn its leathery leaves, Fremontedendron  is endemic to North America and New Mexico and, as such, favours warmth and plenty of sun. It is a short-lived species and so may not reach its potential height of 5-7ms, however, the upshot of this is that it flowers very young, grows prevalently and can be trained against a wall to take advantage of these facts. In poor soil and full sun they will show vibrant blossoms eight centimetres across and attractive green foliage moving into brown with age. Just be careful when you’re working near it though, as the tiny hairs on the leaves are easily brushed off and can be very irritating to the skin and eyes!

4. Rudbeckia

This easy-to-grow herbaceous perennial has much in common with the garden daisy, particularly in the shape of its inflorescence with prominent yellow florets arranged in a cone shaped fashion, as the petals tend to face downward once the flower head blooms. These are a native species of North America and are favoured for their bright flowers late in the season.  There are varieties to grow at the front of the border right through to the back, ranging from heights of 60cms to 2ms tall. They will grow in most soils and are also good for cutting to take indoors, the blooms lasting well in water.

5. Hypericum

‘St. John’s Wort’, as it is otherwise known, depending where you are in the world, can vary between the habits of a creeping groundcover plant to a sizeable shrub. Hypericum is a ‘grow-anywhere’ type of plant and one of the most widely distributed cultivars on earth. As such, is particularly easy to cultivate, as the variation in conditions it will tolerate is vast. In fact the only common denominators between the whole species is the willingness to flower, and the colour of those flowers, producing bowls of bright golden petals over a long flowering season.

By Josh Ellison

Everybody loves fruit - it’s nature’s ice cream with more than forty flavours, it’s the back bone of our vitamin intake, not to mention a damn good looking addition to the garden.

Those of us who grow fruit trees, or will in the future, will inevitably have to learn the art of proper pruning. While this process is not essential to the plant's survival, it is a necessary step to healthy growth and, most importantly, fruit production. Aside from the plant's health, pruning also allows you to customise the shape of the tree and thus better equip you for its placement in the garden.

There are three key factors to observe when selecting which branches get the chop. First of all the deformation of the branches i.e. misshapenness or weak points in the limb and also whether one growth crosses detrimentally into the path of another. The second factor is often a product of the third and that is dead branches - these serve no purpose as they will bear neither future fruit nor leaves, thus they are merely a sunblock that is hurting the rest of the tree’s photosynthesis.  The final factor is disease, like gangrene it is better to lose a single a limb than risk the entire body becoming infected and you must exercise this approach with extreme prejudice.

It will become evident that, for different sizes and types of limb, you’ll require the appropriate tools - the three staple instruments being a sharp set of hand shears or secateurs, their larger brother the lopping shear...

...and also a good pruning saw. It is essential that you maintain both their blades and handles as this will determine the eventual health of your trees. Cuts that have been forced due to poor handling or bluntness will take much longer to heal than those made cleanly. Never strain the shears against the branch, if it will not bore through the first time it is better to repeat the proper technique slowly than twist the branch off quickly. Wipe your tools down with an oily cloth and regularly run oil into the handles if they are wooden, keep them stored in a dry place to avoid rusting and use them only on wood, never on twine or wiring. 

The branch or limb should be taken as deeply into the jaws as possible so that the fulcrum can exert the maximum pressure possible and make a clean sloping cut.

Five Easy Fruits:

1. Apple ‘Bramley’

Perfect for gran’s fruit pies, this cooking apple will yield large, bright green fruits, however, I wouldn’t recommend eating them raw as they can be very tart and give you a bit of a belly-ache!  You’ll be able to recognise their ripeness by the trademark stout appearance they bear and also sometimes the one red cheek that occurs on the side that has been exposed to direct sunlight.

2. Apple ‘Discovery’

Expect this cultivar to fruit shortly after flowering mid-season - by mid-august you’ll find these crimson and yellow orbs ready to be plucked. Considered a dessert apple they have a sweet succulent flavour and an appearance more akin to that of their better known eating counterparts than the Bramley. It is among the most popular growing apples in the British Isles and it’s no secret as to why, with its superior shelf life over many other varieties.

3. Pear ‘Conference’

This self-fertile pear is possessed of an elongated shape and sweet, juicy flesh. Introduced in 1885 by Thomas Rivers, this home grown variant exhibited greater taste, texture and keeping ability than the competition and as such Rivers named it after its introduction at the Pear Conference of that year. As a side note, the Conference has also shown greater resistance to cool and wet weather when compared to its contemporaries and, as a consequence, now accounts for 90% of commercial pear production in this country.

4. Plum ‘Victoria’

You’ll find this fruit at its best in mid-late September when it will develop a rich burgundy skin surrounding bright yellow flesh. Probably the most needy in terms of pruning as the fruit is unlikely to thrive without it due to its heavy foliage. It is quite tolerant of disease, however, the fruit is prone to mould and thus it is imperative that it is picked quickly upon reaching maturity.

5. Cherry ‘Stella’

This gorgeous self-fertile tree will provide a heavy crop of sweet, juicy, dark red fruits during the mid-summer months, however vigilance is key to a successful harvest as the cherry is possessed of a very brief fruiting period and you’ll find stiff competition from the birds!

By Josh Ellison

Continuing on from our previous piece concerning the introduction of selected colour schemes within the garden, we now bring you a variety of cool, blue cultivars to complement the fiery red shades we talked about last week.

Floral and Hardy’s Top Five Blue Blooms:

1. Aconitum

Aconitum, aka ‘Monkshood’, previously appeared in our poisonous plants section and this is important to note if your blue garden will someday entertain animals or small children, as it can prove a fatal addition in the wrong hands. Fortunately, the Monkshood’s preferred growing site is somewhere in partial shade, so you may be able to conceal the plant sufficiently to neutralise this threat! For best effect, plant towards the back of your borders, behind shorter blooms, this way you’ll take advantage of the long stems and vibrant violet blooms. Aconitum is possessed of fairly durable stems so provided the plant isn’t completely exposed it shouldn’t require staking or extra support, but make sure the soil is water retentive and rich, or risk significant damage to your chances of it flowering.

2. Agapanthus

As a native of South Africa it is important you tailor to Agapanthus’ need for fertile soil and sunlight and plant in a sunny, exposed position and, depending on your soil type, you may wish to balance it with the addition of sand or humus to ensure this plant has the drainage it needs. It is recommended that you cultivate the soil in this manner up to 12” deep to ensure a strong root foundation. Similar in shape, if not in colour, to a giant snowflake, their vulnerability to wind is a product of their height and the weight of the flowers. They have an average growing range of over a metre, so it may be necessary to stake all around to ensure good health and flowering.

3. Delphinium

These slender beauties take the form of a vibrant feather duster and produce narrow towers of flowers on a thick, hardy stem, providing your borders with lovely vertical punctuation. However, they are not the easiest customers to please. They prefer full sun but suffer in wind, therefore I would suggest generous implementation of stakes, and make sure you’re happy when you do finally hole them, as they are not easily repositioned. One way to guarantee them a strong start is to line the hole, which should be twice the pots size, with bone meal and, beyond, just make sure you water them regularly. Watch out for slugs and snails in the spring too, as they love their juicy, young growth.

4. Iris

The Iris is one of the most versatile cultivars in the world, able to grow in conditions ranging from an arid, dry desert to full water submersion. Fortunately for you, this translates to a very simple customer in terms of positioning and soil quality as you can always choose one to suit your conditions. There is one constant, however, and that is  they all require full sun, the bearded varieties in particular. Depending on the overall quality of your soil ,we have three types to recommend. For the less fertile garden you might consider the Siberian Iris, far and away the hardiest cultivar suitable for British weather.  The German bearded specimen will accept most soils of average fertility and moisture, and the Japanese cultivar thrives in very damp and rich soils and as such may be considered for the bordering of a pond. They are all long stemmed flowers whose foliage depends on whether they are rhizomatous or bulbous, the former will produce symmetrical sword shaped leaves while the latter will have cylindrical leaves.

5. Meconopsis

Also answering to ‘Himalayan Blue Poppy’, this stunning cultivar never fails to enchant, with its beautiful papery, sky-blue petals and pale yellow centre, unfortunately it often fails to establish itself in gardens so far from its native climate. Do not even attempt to grow this plant unless you have well-drained, acid soil and a shady spot to grow them in. For guaranteed results, it is necessary to tailor the plant’s surroundings and allow it to acclimatise slowly. Plants are also short-lived and will need to be regularly replaced and you can do this from seed. First sow the seeds onto a damp paper towel, roll the towel into a log and place it in one of the salad drawers of your fridge in a sealed plastic bag for a month. The reason for this is to introduce the dormant seeds to their endemic environment and effectively wake them up.  Next you need to create a compost of grit, seed and ericaceous compost, water the tray well and leave to drain, then place your seeds on the surface of the mix but don’t cover them with a second layer. To get them to germinate, the most important thing to remember is water, at no point should the mix tray dry out Store said tray in a cool place preferably with a plastic lid to retain moisture. However, you must take care to remove the lid as soon as germination begins to prevent fungal rot. After a fortnight they should be ready for transplanting and we recommend the same mix that was used for germination combined with plenty of tenderness and loving care. 

By Josh Ellison

(If not necessarily sensible!)

To many, a garden is just a glorified bouquet, somewhere to apply an artistic touch and allownature to do the leg work and, while the aesthetic appeal of this idea is undeniable, to trulyappreciate all that a garden has to offer to the senses, we cannot be resigned to be mere voyeurs.A garden can be so much more, and here is a guide to creating spaces that encompass and cater   to all of our senses.

Sight

Nothing lifts the spirits like a well-planted garden and starting with the most obvious stimuli a garden can offer, it is important to note the psychological effect of particular hues. As we know, artistic flare alone does not make a great gardener, it also helps to have a basic interest in the natural sciences and, in this case, physics. 

Red, for example, has longest wave length in the light/colour spectrum and as such appears closer than it really is, hence the reputation it has acquired as a bold and attention grabbing colour. Yellow and oranges can be cheerful colours too that are just as stimulating and exciting.  Green, by contrast, could perhaps provide quite a bland palette in a garden, despite the fact that at an instinctive level it is also the most comforting as it holds connotations of water.

Along with blues, whites and mauves, it can also have the effect of receding in the garden and making borders feel further away than they actually are. These soft colours can also be more effective in shady conditions or in the evening, standing out in the dim light more effectively than their deeper coloured relatives.

Sound

The most common sounds of a garden are the simplest - particularly that of the wind through the trees and nearby animals and birds, but it is possible to enhance these sounds with diligence paid to your planting. You could, for example, plant stands of bamboo and wait for the breeze to rustle through them, and you can fill the garden with plants specifically to attract birds and insects. Water features are also excellent for attracting birds and their mating songs, aside from providing their own soundtrack to calm the mind and psychologically cool the air.

Touch

There are a myriad of different textures and surfaces that one can implement in a garden toenhance the tactile experience of it. Let’s start with a major component of most gardens, thelawn – nothing quite beats the feel of cool, soft grass between your toes. Then there are the other surfaces - smooth, sawn paving, warm decking and tactile sandstone spheres, for example.

In terms of planting, the exciting textures of foliage and flowers are almost endless, from the soft, felted leaves of  Lamb’s Ears (Stachys byzantina),

to the squirrel-tailed flowering stems of Pennisetum setaceum

and the  smooth, shiny, mahogany-coloured bark of the ornamental cherry, Prunus serrula. They all beg to be touched, caressed and enjoyed.

There’s fun to be had too – who can forget playing with Snapdragons (Antirrhinums) when they were a child?

Smell

There’s no end to the recommendations we could make where the sense of smell is concerned, anything from lavender and honeysuckle, to roses would provide a palpable feast for your nose. But look beyond flowers and appreciate the fragrance of foliage too – of course herbs are obvious choices, but some ornamental shrubs and trees also have aromatic foliage. The aroma of Nepeta, for example, can drive your cat wild with excitement, hence its common name – Catmint. For us, there are lemon-scented geranium leaves, the fresh smell of pine and the pungent fragrance of Choisya ternata (Mexican Orange Blossom), among many others. For best effect, try to plant your scented specimens close to entrances and pathways, where you can more easily appreciate their fragrance as you pass by.

Taste

To achieve a truly delectable, edible garden your best bet would be the addition of a mini-orchard, vegetable patch or herb garden, and nothing beats home-grown produce. However, if this is an impractical measure for you, or if yours is a purely flower-based garden, you can still grow edible plants.

 Introduce easily grown Nasturtiums to your plot, as these make for an excellent, colourful and peppery salad garnish during blooming season. A patch of Daylilies (Hemerocallis) wouldn’t go amiss either as these vivid blooms have a sweet, nutty flavour (and have earned a reputation in Chinese cuisine as excellent flavouring for soups!) Climbing plants can also provide floral interest as well as an edible bounty. 

Try Passion Flower (Passiflora caerulea), for example. It has exotic-looking purple and white flowers and these are followed by orange, egg-shaped fruits, which, while the bright red pulp is not perhaps as flavoursome as the variety you’d buy in the supermarket, is still stunning over ice-cream or in Champagne!

By Josh Ellison

Tricks to make your garden look bigger!

While an experienced gardener will have a knack for best taking advantage of the space they’ve got, for example with the correct balance of small to large plants or how their borders are positioned, there is one magic trick none of us can perform and that is expanding the space itself. Of course, if Harry Houdini were here he’d tell you the key to a good illusion is the mirrors, not the elephant. So as you’ve probably guessed, today’s article concerns means of giving the appearance of a larger garden than you actually possess.

Starting at ground level, we have the lines and shapes of a garden - specifically sectioned areas like lawns or paving. Due to the rectangular shape of many suburban gardens and box like connotations that geometric shapes invoke, it is often best to use fluid shapes such as circles or ovals when shaping your lawn. They not only disguise the boundaries but can also make a garden appear much wider. 

This can also apply to the paving that surrounds said lawns, as too many straight lines make the spaces seem constricted and unnatural. On that note, if you’ve got a small garden, try to avoid large paving slabs as these tend to overpower the more delicate elements of a garden and, by using smaller pieces, you’ll be able to implement a random paved technique that no doubt will be more pleasing to the eye.

(This is the same garden as the one above!)

Apart from your open spaces, careful planning concerning your planting scheme is also essential to enlarging the garden as a whole. Remember the basic principle of all interior designers: lighter equals larger, while darkness means confinement. As such, your deeper toned flowers should be centralised to your borders and surrounded by lighter flowers that will relieve their oppressive connotations. Whilst surrounding the back door with crimson blooms, for example, can present an image of warmth that will be associated with the building itself, it can confine the observer, with the brighter colours fighting for your attention. Aim for lighter colours in your beds to match the greatest space you can manipulate, the sky above them. Aside from colour you should also consider the textures of your plants, finely textured plants like Rosemary will reflect light differently to the heavy foliage of a Laurel, which means that careful layering can add depth to your garden, while heavy-handedness can make it look flat. 

Finally, you have the size of your plants which will vary depending on for what type of garden you’re aiming. Simply put, bigger is better, thousands of tiny shrubs and flower heads make a garden look cluttered, whereas a bold structural scheme can attest to the size of their environment. Then there’s the vertical approach - as vertical stripes make a dress seem longer, so do tall trees add a height to your garden that, even if you can’t touch it, you can imagine it.

While on the subject of vertical gardening, it is important to note the value of structures like archways and pergolas. Similar to the telescopic effect of putting your eye to a pin hole, a long corridor like this can give the illusion of length particularly if entwined with vibrant hanging flowers. There are also various ‘perspective’ arches on the market which have the same effect.

A garden can also be made to look longer by constructing paths that narrow in width as they progress down the plot.

Finally we have the oldest trick in the book, and one that brings us back to Mr. Houdini - mirrors. Reflective glass has been used by designers since time immemorial to double or triple the size of a room and there’s no reason not to apply this beyond the home, and into the garden. Most effective when placed facing an open space such as a lawn or a pretty planting scheme, but not so as to immediately reflect the viewer as they approach, they can give the illusion of another inviting garden beyond. Their illusion can be strengthened by the addition of a view of moving water that will lend fluidity to the image.

5 easy-to-grow-from-seed perennials

We are all perhaps familiar with the stress and difficulty that comes from attempting propagation of our beloved perennial plants using cuttings or division, particularly the ever present threat of diseases that are so easily spread through such techniques. And once you’ve got past the dilemma of choosing appropriate plant material, which disease preventative measures to take in disinfecting your various cuttings and prunings, applying rooting hormones to ensure the plant has a strong start, only to find they’ve all rotted off, well, you might just as well have had a few kids and at least get the chance of a thank you!

On the other hand, you have the option of growing direct from seeds. Of course this provides its own plethora of problems - particularly in that initial year of establishment, but it is an inexpensive way of increasing your stock and you’ll find below a list of five easy to grow perennials that even the most inexperienced gardener can cope with raising. Sow inside in early spring for flowering the same year. Just follow the instructions on the packet!

1. Achillea

Achillea, also known as Yarrow, has a reputation as one of the hardiest perennials in the world. Large, flat heads of tiny white, yellow, pink or terracotta flowers contrast well with the feathery grey or green foliage. They prefer sun and well-drained soil and they will tolerate dry conditions, though you should aim to water them twice weekly and fertilise as many times a season. In particularly rich soil Yarrow will spring to heights of up to a metre and may require staking.

2. Echinacea purpurea

Echinacea, aside from its ease of growth, will also provide distraction for nearby butterflies and bees.  Plant out approximately 60cms apart as they will soon clump up. The soil in question should be of neutral ph. and well drained, however Echinacea is fairly tolerant to clay soils provided they are afforded decent sunlight. Blooms from June to October with white or pink, daisy-like flowers with a prominent  central cone.

3. Lupin

Lupins make for an excellent border plant and were a great favourite in old cottage gardens, however, it is a slow burner in terms of propagation, so it’s important you observe patience. Sow early to allow the flowers time to mature for their mid-summer blooming period.  Lupins prefer a partially shady spot in the garden and an acidic or neutral soil and flower in a variety of colours, including bi-colours.

4. Penstemon

Penstemons have a long flowering season and come in a range of colours, from white, to pink and red, through to deep purple. They will perform best in a gravelly, well-drained soil and should be planted out near the end of spring to ensure no risk of frost degradation, making sure you provide enough space for each plant - to the tune of 45-60cms. Being a shallow rooted cultivar it is important that Penstemons be watered regularly and the soil be enriched with fertiliser throughout the growing season. I would also recommend a shallow layer of mulch to discourage nearby weeds.

5. Verbena bonariensis

This hardy perennial’s delicate appearance belies its tolerant nature. Its tiny mauve flowers are borne on tall, wiry stems, but it will flourish in a sunny or shaded dappled spot and, should it suffer frost damage, it will self-seed with interest on your losses. It is very tolerant to drought and sandy soils, though some organic matter is recommended in the initial planting, supplemented by regular fertiliser e.g. chicken manure. Verbena goes well in most styles of garden but contrasts superbly with banana trees, palms and bamboos in a tropical scheme.

By Josh Ellison

Water features can bring the pleasing elements of sound and light into your garden, but the argument between the traditional and contemporary is a long-standing one in any art form, and horticulture is no different. When it comes to the more peripheral aspects of a garden, such as water features, it is necessary to consider how the style of such a focal point will feature in the motif of the existing space. Also, as it is not necessarily a practical addition to your space, a water feature’s size and shape are very customisable, as it needs serve no purpose except the aesthetic.

So, let us begin with the traditional options, the utmost of which of course would be a classic pond or waterfall, because these forms are a regular occurrence in nature and thus are more traditional than any artificial design. Our previous editorials can be referenced for tips on how to approach such a construction. However, there may be a definite theme or stylistic period that you wish to evoke in your garden.

For example, the simple elegance of a Japanese garden might call for placement of a shishi odoshi. Roughly translated to ‘deer scare’, this graceful piece of physics is composed of a bamboo tube suspended on a fulcrum, weighted at one end and hollowed out at the other. The hollow will gradually fill with water causing it to pivot and void into the basin of the feature which in turn will cause the weighted end to strike the stony surround with a distinctive clunk. The beauty of this feature lies not only in its synonymity with Japanese culture, but also the simplicity with which it presents itself and its gradual grace.

Or, you might want to create a formal, canal-style water feature in the Italian tradition, or an intricate, tiled, Moroccan –style courtyard pond - the possibilities are virtually endless.

There is also the option of a traditional free standing, or wall-mounted stone fountain with which we’re of course familiar with from many of the major squares in our local city or from the courtyards of many of our stately homes. These are available in a range of shapes and designs and as such they successfully bridge the gap between modernity and tradition, being adaptable to the needs of the gardener as either reproductive of the past or indicative of the future.

However, while simplicity can be a feature of some traditional examples, it is perhaps the defining feature of contemporary horticulture, not to mention exterior design. No water feature greater exemplifies the philosophy of ‘less being more’ than the water wall, available as either a free standing structure or mounted on an existing wall, it acts as both a fountain and a mirror thus using the old interior design trick of illusory expansion.

In a modern take on the rocky waterfall, we have a variety of stone sculptures, perhaps the most attractive of which is the drilled rainbow sandstone sphere - you’ve probably seen these little beauties scattered among the show gardens this year, as they seem to have spiked in popularity recently. The basic premise is this; the natural colouring of sandstone is heightened by exhuming a ball of the stuff, sanding it smooth and tactile and then allowing water to run over its surface, to give added brilliance to its rings of natural colour.

Also popular is the stainless steel,’ letter box’ shape water feature which can be fitted to a wall, so that when activated it will emit a pleasing, vertical curtain of water.

It should be mentioned, of course, that all water features, whatever the style, benefit from good lighting to create an exciting dimension in your night-time garden.

By Josh Ellison

n conjunction with our regular editorials bringing you the latest news feeds and suggestions from the gardening world, Floral and Hardy will now also be presenting a colour focused commentary - a regular piece that is devoted solely to the co-ordination of floral colour schemes in your garden, kicking off with the primary colours.

This week, we’ll be covering red, perhaps the boldest, and one of the most exciting of colours, producing a dramatic effect in the garden. Here are just some of our favourite red flowers:

Floral and Hardy’s Five Fave Red Flowers:

1. Geum ‘Mrs Bradshaw’

Also known as ‘Bell Bank’ or ‘Avens’, this herbaceous perennial is perfect for early flowering, blooming as it does with double, red flowers on wiry stems from May right through to September,  whilst also providing attractive ground cover foliage. Due to this cultivars appetite for sun, Geums should be sited close to the front of your borders so that it cannot be smothered by larger plants. It should take advantage of any available shelter for, while they’re resistant to frost, the flower itself is vulnerable to weathering. Although Bell Bank can survive in most soils, it will not thrive in extremes of wet or dry. Heavy clay should also be avoided and for best results the soil should be enriched with compost before planting.

2. Papaver ‘Goliath’

Oriental Poppies are one of the most vibrant additions one could make to an early summer garden, this one with huge, papery, red flowers with black centres and distinctive foliage. The only disadvantage is that once they have finished flowering the leaves tend to die down leaving a gap in the border. However, if you cut the plant down once the flowers go over, you may get a repeat flowering in the same season. Although they like sun, too much heat can stunt their growth, nor do they react well to high levels of humidity. Make sure there's a few inches of soil above the crown of the plant and avoid clay based soils, as once the roots are established they need to remain well drained. Also make sure the soil is close to neutral as high acidity will inhibit growth.

3. Kniphofia uvaria

Also known by the handles ‘Red Hot Poker’ and ‘Torch Lily’ due to the tiki torch resemblance that the form of its red-tipped blooms have, this striking plant will flower from July – September. This plant has high light requirements, however, due to its long stem should be provided with support canes if it is to be planted in exposed areas. Fortunately other aspects of the plant require very little attention as it is known for its drought and heat tolerance. For best effect the base leaves should be trimmed following the summer bloom and the flowering stems cut down.

- This was one of the blooms that we unexpectedly saw yesterday!

4. Dahlia ‘Bednall Beauty’

This cultivar will make an excellent addition to the rouge palette. With an Award of Garden Merit (AGM) to its name, this vibrant perennial prefers full sun and a well-drained soil.  It has deep bronze-purple foliage, contrasting beautifully with its dark red, double flowers from late summer to autumn. It is recommended that the Dahlia be located in a sunny, sheltered position and a rich loam soil will also help the propagation of the flowers, as will watering and regular dead-heading throughout the summer. If you live in a mild location, you can risk leaving the tubers in the ground over winter, but if not, wait until the foliage is blackened by frost, then lift the tubers, remove the stems and foliage and store in a dry, frost-free place until spring, when you can plant them out again.

5. Euphorbia griffithii ‘Fireglow’

A relative of the showy ‘Poinsettia’ that we tend to only see at Christmas, the outdoor variety of this popular perennial is much longer lasting! It is aptly named as it will bloom a beautiful, carmine red, with an orange core through late spring and early summer. The Euphorbia is one of the most agreeable cultivars on our list, being happy in full sun or part shade, exposed or sheltered and in soils of most levels of acidity. It is suggested though, that the soil be fairly dense and humus rich, as light soils can invite Euphorbia’s invasive nature.

By Josh Ellison

Whilst travelling around London yesterday visiting some of our current garden projects, imagine our amazement when we saw gardens with plants in full bloom that has no business being around at this time of the year.

Our journey took much longer than it should as we just had to stop and take photographs just to make sure our eyes hadn’t deceived us, especially as they were alongside the discarded Christmas Trees that were waiting to be collected for recycling!

You may remember that around this time last year it was particularly cold and we were experiencing a period of heavy snow, so we could hardly see the gardens, let alone any of the plants!

The best of the bunch that we saw were:

1. Kniphofia (Red Hot Poker) This perennial with its tall spikes of soft yellow flowers with scarlet tips normally flowers from July to September.

2. Choisya ternata (Mexican Orange Blossom)  This rounded evergreen with divided, green leaves and star-shaped  scented white flowers normally blooms in June and July

3. Hebe This rounded evergreen with reddish stems, spear-shaped leaves and long lavender flower racemes should be flowering in July and August.

4. Pink Rose both this and the yellow one below should be blooming from Summer through to Autumn so they both seem to be lingering in this mild weather.

5. Yellow Rose

Usually we are beginning to see the first shoot of spring bulbs peeping through the cold soil but all of these confused bloomers gave a wonderful splash of colour across the gardens, which was quite unexpected at this time of year, but utterly delightful.

By Toni Jux

As promised in last week’s editorial on delectable domestic mushrooms from Oysters to Puffballs, here is the twin article that will inform on the appearance, and effects, of some of Britain’s most dangerous fungi.

1. Yellow Stainer (Agaricus xanthodermus)

Often confused, to the folly of its pickers, with the Horse Mushroom, this species is a militant little bugger that will not only damage your insides but stain your clothes and fingers yellow when cut. The Horse mushroom is among the most common growing fungus, with a white creamy cap and grey-brown interior which are both features it shares with the Stainer. Fortunately the Stainer is easily identifiable due to its titular habit of bruising yellow should its stem be cut or its heads tapped even lightly.

2. Death Cap (Amanita phalloides)

Perhaps the most notorious threat among the picking community is the Death Cap, a clandestine foe that will often possess a pleasant taste to lull you into false security, not to mention a delayed toxic effect during which time many vital organs will be maliciously attacked by the toxin. Couple this with its apparent physical similarities to many edible species, namely the Puffballs from our previous list, and it becomes paramount you note its distinctions-particularly its overpowering sickly scent.

3. European Destroying Angel (Amanita virosa)

Aptly named for its pure white colouring and furled wing appearance, the Angel is closely related to the Death Cap in that they both comprise the amatoxins and phallotoxins that make them so deadly. Recognisable by its spongy and wilted exterior, symptoms include diarrhoea, vomiting and liver failure making the European Destroying Angel one of the world’s most dangerous known toadstools.

4. Fool’s Mushroom (Amanita verna)

A coupling of these slender and aesthetic fungi might draw comparison to the saucers of the World’s Fair – kind, I suppose, to supply such a pleasing view to one they’ve just doomed! Possessing the same liver destroying component as the death cap, not to mention looks to kill, the Fool’s Mushroom is all too often mistaken for other common edible varieties and unfortunately, like the rest of this group, can be found widely distributed in English and European woodland.

5. Livid Entoloma (Entoloma sinuatum)

The final entry is something of an imposter, who poses as the number one on our previous list of edible fungi, and while it is not a life threatening consumption in small doses, it does bear a striking resemblance to the St. George mushroom. In fact this cultivar is such an effective double agent that it alone is believed to be responsible for  over 10% of all mushroom poisoning in Europe, providing highly unpleasant gastro-intestinal repercussions.

Honourable Mention

While not strictly causing a physical ailment, the Psilocybin species of mushroom, more colloquially known as ‘Liberty Cap’ or ‘Magic Mushroom’, can provide particular psychological distress if taken in large quantities. Symptoms are reported to include distortion of shapes and distance not to mention a consummate benevolence. The counter cultural thinking this can cause may be considered a danger by some, however, I hope the more open-minded horticulturalists among you will not throw these fungi in the same pigeon hole as its poisonous cousins!

By Josh Ellison

Heed the Seeds! (Six Easy to Grow, Half-Hardy Annuals)

The January sales might not apply to gardening, but garden bargains can begin early with ordering seeds in preparation for the planting period of early spring to give yourselves plenty of inexpensive colour in the garden this summer.

In light of this, here is a collection of six beautiful and easy to grow, half-hardy plants ready to be sown early in the New Year.

1. Cleome (Spider Flower)

A common and well known cultivar, the Spider Flower is named thus for its exceedingly long pink and white stamens and seed pods that sprout in half dozen clutches giving the appearance of spiders legs. These clutches sprout at the crown of stems up to six feet high. When cultivating this plant you shouldn’t get too hung up on the quality of soil which is largely inconsequential, as the Cleome is very hardy to droughts and a lack of nutrients, however it will only thrive if watered regularly. Space is the key requirement and as such I would recommend spacing of three feet per plant.

2. Cosmos

These white, pink or deep burgundy-red, daisy-like blooms will flower in early to late summer, needing only poor soil and partial sunlight, and will require minimal maintenance to produce vibrant and healthy flowers over a long period. However, be wary of over fed soil as this can lead to a more foliage focused specimen, rather than a high number of blooms. Deadheading is also an effective means of ensuring consistency in the flowering plants.

3. Impatiens (Busy Lizzie)

These popular bloomers will thrive either as a potted indoor plant or as a summer bedding plant, however now is the time to begin planting, Lizzie is favoured for her bright foliage and petals, ranging between white, pink, mauve and red. They are also a highly versatile plant in that they can grow in beds, hanging baskets and tubs alike. They are well suited in either sun or shade and flower all summer long, generally no higher than 1 ft.

4. Ipomoea (Morning Glory)

One of grandmother’s favourite climbers and it’s no wonder as to why – with their bright blue, trumpet-shaped flowers, they are stunning. Soak the seeds before planting to ensure germination and once the heads begin to poke through, put in some supports gently winding the stems themselves around the base. Fairly resistant to droughts and happy in a majority of soil quality, these little beauties should be planted out, as should all half-hardy annuals, after the last chance of frost and then evenly fed and watered for best results.

5. Petunia

Available in a range of different cultivars depending on your preferred colour scheme, the Petunia geminates in two weeks and yields a velvety, trumpet-shaped bloom varying between pink, white, pink, purple, orange,red and sometimes even bi-coloured. Make sure to plant them in full sun and keep the surrounding soil moist, watering once every 2-5 days. Regular dead-heading will allow new shoots to flourish.

6. Thunbergia (Black Eyed Susan)

The Thunbergia is an extremely attractive vine with characteristic yellow flowers with a black eye, hence the common name. It should be sewn indoors up two months before the final frost - this will provide the seedlings enough time to establish before the start of spring, thus allowing you to plant directly into the garden when spring does arrive. Whether you provide supports depends entirely on the purpose of the plants, whether you wish them to sprawl outward as ground cover or upward as a standing vine.

Just follow the instructions on the packet for a riot of colour in your this year!

By Josh Ellison

Mistletoe - second to the Christmas tree, it is the staple yuletide plant. Songs are written about it, doors adorned with it and kisses won under it, but this seasonal decoration and great matchmaker is under threat, it is believed.

The RHS is awash with rumours that the fabled mistletoe is in steady decline, with a parallel being drawn to its host trees who are suffering a similar fate. The theory goes that, due to a 60% decline in domestic orchard growing, the vegetation that would normally house the festive species has been less available.

In response to this, an action group known as the Mistletoe League Project have begun a survey into the harvesting technique applied to mistletoe which, as they say, is capable of flourishing on many other host species, but is most readily available from fruit trees due to the ease of access this offers.  The long term goal of this survey is to replenish the mistletoe population which you can help with.

If you’re lucky enough to have some growing nearby you can collect berries from which to propagate. The first and most important choice you will make is the selection of suitable fruits. If the berry is yellow or green then that means it is not ripe and should be avoided, you should aim for pure white or nothing at all. Alternatively if you don’t live near a ready supply, any specimens you’ve been using over the festive period can be revived by soaking them in water. Store them in a jar of water and keep the jar cool until planting season in late February.

The second phase of mistletoe cultivation is selecting an appropriate host. While it is established that they will do very well on apple trees, it will also do well on pear trees or even Pyracantha. Rose bushes are also a good place to start as their brittle branches will allow the mistletoe to densely intertwine into a strong foundation. Whilst Mistletoe is parasitic, unless it gets too big, it is not generally harmful to its host, but nevertheless, always choose established, healthy specimens to try to ensure success.

When approaching larger hosts such as the aforementioned tree species, it is difficult to strike the right balance between sunlight exposure and vulnerability to predators. 

There are two techniques to combat this; the first is fairly acrobatic in that you should attempt to locate the seeds in the crooks and hollows of the tree's higher branches - this will allow plenty of exposure to sunlight and you can ward off hungry birds with a well-placed sheet of hessian secured with twine.

The second technique involves cutting slots beneath the tree bark and creating small ‘pages’ that can be folded back over the seed. It is important with both that you removed the seed from a plump, hydrated berry with some of the flesh intact to further encourage initial germination.

Remember, however, that mistletoe propagation is a numbers game, as even a healthy seed has a fairly low rate of germination - less than 10% generally - so be meticulous about marking where you have planted them so you don’t end up shooting yourself in the foot!

By Josh Ellison

This week I bring you the first in a two part piece concerning those fine fungal frequenters of our forests - the mushrooms. This first part concerns the edible of their kin that you should look out for on your next woodland walk. 

Of course our meagre list of five doesn’t account for even 1% of the varieties that pepper our precious isles, which is why, for fear of a lawsuit as much as anything, next week’s editorial will centre on their more nefarious cousins!  With the breaking news that a couple in Australia have recently been killed by eating poisonous mushrooms they mistook for edible, it is vitally important to make sure that you correctly identify specimens before you eat them. I f possible take a good illustrated guide book when you are foraging, so that you can be sure.

Five Edible British Fungi:

1. St.George’s Mushroom (Calocybe gambosa)

In yesteryear you would expect to find this species in early to mid-April however, with the warm wet springs that have graced us in the last decade, they tend to arrive a week or so later. The St. George is recognisable for its creamy white to yellow stem, gills, very plump and stout bulb and slight cucumber smell. They are best fried simply in butter and are possessed of a distinct meaty flavour which will intensify with age. Care must be taken not to confuse it with the highly poisonous ‘Inocybe erubescens’, which has a more pungent fruity smell and bruises red.

2. Chicken of the Woods (Laetiporus)

This prolific species can be found from the beginning of May and often grows in huge thatches of up to 10 kilograms. If it does grow locally, you should have no trouble in spotting it due to its vibrant colouring. Look out for large tree bound contusions, bright orange in colour and yellow undersides littered with small pores, but if the colours seem faded then this will indicate the plant’s ageing and the likelihood of an unsavoury meal. You should also avoid any specimens bound to Yew or Eucalyptus trees as this combination can often taint the fungus and make it poisonous. Finally, avoid eating great portions or serving the plant to young children as despite its rich flavour, there are scattered reports that it possesses hallucinogenic side effects.

3. Chanterelle (Cantharellus cibarius)

While this may be the rarest addition to our list, it’s not as flavoursome as some of the other varieties mentioned, although it is very high in vitamins C and D and also potassium. Recognisable for its unusual flute-like shape, yellow to orange colouring and gill-like ridges under the cap, it is most readily found in pine forests. It will provide an aromatic and subtle food stuff, though it is supposedly better utilised as a vodka flavouring! We recommend it as an ingredient in a simple pasta dish, so as not to overpower it.

4. Giant Puffball (Calvatia gigantea)

With the end of winter we must relegate the Puffball to next year’s picking, as they are known to be at their best during the months of September and October. However, an intact, edible specimen is also one of the most prized finds of the ‘shroomaphile’. Habitually growing anywhere between a few centimetres and over a metre  in diameter, these spherical white orbs will break from their stems upon ripening and roll the forest floor for up to two years releasing spores! To ensure you’ve hit gold, halve the fruit and look for any yellow or green patches, if they’re absent then - run Charlie! Run all the way home for only pure white flesh and timely  use provides a flavoursome feast. The means of preparation are practically endless as they can be diced like conventional mushrooms - sautéed, pureed for soups and broths or sliced thickly, covered with breadcrumbs and fried to accompany steaks.

5. Oyster Mushrooms (Pleurotus ostreatus)

This might be called ‘the evergreen’ of edible mushrooms as, although their heyday tends to fall around mid winter, particularly after a hard frost, they can be found at any time of year, mainly attached to hardwood trees. It gets its name from the shape of its white, grey or brown cap and often smells of anise. It is best suited to stir-frying.

By Josh Ellison

I Wanna Rock -

A rockery can make for a very interesting focal point in a garden and also an excellent platform on which to plant choice specimens where they can be raised and appreciated. It also allows you to manipulate the height and shape of your garden, much like directors with their stage.

First of all, pick a site in full sun as, not only can the monotonous colour of rockery stone appear very drab in a shady spot, but many of the alpines you will plant need full sun to flourish.

When cultivating your chosen spot, it’s important to note the threat that weeds will pose on the aesthetic of your project and eliminate them with extreme prejudice before you start!

Next you should think about forming the mound for the rockery and this can include anything ranging from old discarded bricks or rubble, to up-turned pieces of unwanted turf, or just plain soil. Alternatively, raise the level of ground, I would suggest a few railway sleepers as a cheap and effective alternative to tons of soil! For the planting medium, if your soil happens to be particularly heavy, try mixing it with some sand or grit as it needs to be free draining for the type of plants you will grow. Height and shape are also important for the same reason - if the rockery is on a downward slope then water will be dissipated much more quickly and efficiently.

The second phase will involve actually deciding which types of rock you wish to use and the priority here is to make it seem as natural as possible. To this end, try to choose stone that is indigenous to your area, or at least try to  avoid the beach ball shaped stones that they have at garden centres as these have an inescapable artificiality to them that would ruin your rockery design. Instead try to stick to flat shaped rocks as these give the tectonic impression that will cement the sites authenticity. Always bear in the mind the size of your rockery and scale the stones to match. The structure of a rockery is much like any good mosaic, the pieces don’t fit together like a puzzle but rather their pattern emerges from their seeming randomness. However, you also need to avoid the ‘currant bun’ effect and group stones to give the impression of natural rocky outcrops.

Make a base layer of your largest rocks, overlapping them and half submerging them if need be, sloping the stones backwards into the soil. At each level you should seek to increase and decrease the height and stone size respectively, however be wary of creating the overall slope too steep as this can lead to a miniature landslide in heavy downpours! It is also crucial that you have a basic idea of the planting scheme of your rockery and leave planting pockets in the rocks accordingly. Once you have planted out, add a mulch of shale or gravel, both to add to the aesthetic look of the rockery, but also to protect the plants from winter wet rotting their crowns.

Finally, why not consider adding a water feature as the final crowning centrepiece to a rockery, which would not only provide some fluidity to a stationary feature, but will also help to attract wildlife to your garden.

By Josh Ellison

Although there will be plenty of toil involved in raising your own produce aisle, that part does not begin for at least a few months. The genesis of the vegetable patch occurs in the middle of winter when, looking into your roast dinners, you wonder about all the bad noise that the supermarkets are getting for their treatment of crops and whether you might do a better job. The answer is, yes you can!

Your first priority when deciding a site for a veg patch is sunlight, as the greater their exposure to it will determine the variety of what you can grow. So, plant on each extreme of your north/south axis to allow full sunlight to hit the length of the plot, also make sure that this will not be compromised by existing trees or fences. If possible, for convenience sake, try to plant near the kitchen.

Size is a major part of your planning process and depends entirely on your means - address why you’re growing the plot. First time hobby? Economic solution to the loss of your nectar card? The reasoning dictates how large or small the plot will be based on how much of your garden you are willing to invest.

If a larger plot is out of the question, or you’re unsure of what size would suit your needs, then may I suggest a simple window box. Starting with a minor project like a herb garden will not only familiarise you with the plants themselves, but will also provide a point of comparison to base future projects on. 

Other small scale ideas include grow-in-the-bag tomatoes and there is also a range of salad stuff that you can grow in a window box or garden tub, cropping repeatedly from single cuttings, such as lettuce, mustard and pak choi. You can even grow potatoes in a large pot on your patio.

If you have a bit more room, and time (!) you might consider something larger scale. The style of bedding you tuck your plants into is more a cosmetic choice. There are no hard and fast rules only preferences, but the raised bed has seen a boom among vegetable gardeners recently for its adaptability. Being a contained environment it will allow you to grow on otherwise unsuitable sites and also affords complete mastery of the soil content and drainage. And if that weren’t enough, it’s certainly a lot easier on your back! Another advantage of a simple timber, or sleeper built bed, is that of an easier workload, as you don’t have to double dig every season. But, if your vegetable patch is more frivolous than that of a kitchen gardener, then you may want to avoid the labour of building a raised bed or the cost of buying one.

The thing to remember is the commitment being made if you’re serious about growing and propagating a successful cabbage patch or potato pit, however it’s not without its advantages. Aside from the aforementioned money saved, a vegetable patch also provides an educational activity in which young children can partake, teaching values like independence and respect for living things.

Finally, I’m suggesting a list of five staple favourites, both for their ease of cultivation and their popularity on the dinner table. I would recommend trying Carrots, Potatoes, Runner Beans, Parsnips and Sprouts to start and see how you get along.

By Josh Ellison