Any gardener looks forward to the promise of beautiful flowers and shapely lawns, but all too often these can be spoilt by diseases, fungal or infectious. So we’ve prepared a ‘most wanted’ roster of some of the most commonly occurring, and also of the fastest degrading afflictions that can affect your ecosystem. Having read this and next week’s article, you’ll be able to identify and (hopefully) treat these ailments before they’ve a chance to permanently damage your plants.

Powdery Mildew

Powdery Mildew is a fungal affliction which can affect a myriad of garden-variety plants including vegetables and flowering species, it basically consists of a fungal film that spreads across the leaves, stems and other foliage of the plant. Fortunately, however, the ‘dew comes in a variety of different types and while one might devastate your tomato crops, the same strain will have no effect on your cabbages or delphiniums. The most recognisable symptom of this affliction is the titular powder that will surface all parts of the plant and as such one of the most effective control methods is simply to isolate the foliage and remove it from the plant.

Rose Blackspot

The Black Spot, as much feared by rose gardeners as it was by pirates, is another fungal disease which causes initial discolouration and finally wilt and death in the foliage of most English roses however, floribundas and some species of climbers are known to be most susceptible. Unfortunately the disease is very diverse and thus able to rise to the challenge of chemical control as such, the best method is remove the affected foliage and destroy it.

Rust

Rust is one of the most common-place diseases that gardeners must combat due in large part to its genetic diversity, a variety of different strains means that this fungus is able to adapt to a large collection of hosts i.e. allium, bluebell, chrysanthemum, hollyhock, poplar and roses. As the name would suggest, rust fungi occur in the form of orange-brown cysts that degrade the structure of the plant; there are several fungicides available developed to combat this very eventuality.

Clematis Wilt

Given that another of our other editorials this week is centred on the cultivation of Clematis, it is prudent that we include one of its nemeses here so that you might spot and treat before it has a chance to lay tracks.  CW is a fungal infection whose severity largely depends on the species of your Clematis; the large flowered climbers tend to be the most susceptible while the smaller, earth-bound species, and the spring and autumn flowering climbing types are known for their resilience. When looking for Clematis wilt the most obvious will be the black discolouration it causes in the leaves and stems of the cultivar. Unfortunately there are no quick-fix chemical control options, protection comes during the planning stages by ensuring that the plant is planted deeply (about 15cms lower than the soil level in the pot) and that the soil is well mulched.

Box Blight

Box Blight is associated, as the name suggests, with Buxus topiary  and hedging plants and its most common symptom comes in the form of brown and eventually bare patches amid the foliage. The most effective treatment is, unfortunately, to remove the plant altogether in order to prevent it spreading to other plants.

Next week’s column will include another list of common garden diseases and potential buffers for them, in the meantime have a thorough examination of your own plants and make sure they don’t suffer from any of those mentioned here.

By Josh Ellison

At last a turn in the weather, but in spite of all the complaining about the previously atrocious ‘summer’ weather, at least we haven’t, as a species, felt particularly threatened - unless we had been planning an imminent barbeque or even a summer wedding!

Britain’s wildlife however, not including rain-lovers like our snails and slugs, is unable to make the same claim. After what has been proclaimed as the wettest April-June period in recorded history, it has entered the news that several of our native birds and mammals are suffering a significant drop in numbers. One of the most affected cases has been the report of a community of Puffins drowning in their burrows due to underground flooding, and we’ve spoken previously about the threat that such torrential rain poses to the breeding capacities of insects, such as moths and butterflies, that rely on dry areas to lay their eggs.

The wind has played havoc as well on the propagation of certain garden variety birds, as well as their sea-bound counterparts - gales have forced gulls and other such species from their cliff-side shelters while their commonplace relatives have been hard-pressed to find food for their young with the wind constantly scattering it about the place. A whole season’s generation of Terns is under threat in Northern Ireland, due to their parents inability to keep them warm against such an onslaught of weather.

Alongside these, there have also been negative affects on England’s amphibious population. You see, the extremely dry weather at the beginning of this year encouraged breeding on a mass scale for our domestic Frogs and Toads, however the sudden and uncharacteristic onset of rainy weather has produced environments too cold for their young to survive and thus all the good work in January has been undone.

However, amid all this destruction there have been some positive side-effects, namely in our endemic flora, with the National Trust generating stories of green areas now teeming with nettles, brambles and bracken. 

Though these spurts in growth and propagation have not only been limited to ground cover plants - there have been reports of mosses and flowering plants, such as the Gentian and Bee Orchids and, in an isolated case, Bedfordshire is showing swaths of Pyramidal and Common Spotted Orchids along the Downs. 

Although, it also has to be said that the enormous amount of rainfall has also led to the oppression of many of our beloved summer flowers, particularly those more susceptible to adverse conditions, but despite this Poppies have been able not only to cope, but to thrive.

However, the National Trust’s conservation adviser has warned that those species that have benefited from the wet weather are grossly outweighed by those who’ve been set back and that we may face the extinction of some of our native species, butterflies specifically, were it to continue.

He went on to say that without a turn in the weather, and thus some sustained sunlight, we could have been facing a huge loss in the numbers of many of our beneficial insects such as ladybirds, butterflies and honey bees. Good job the sun’s come out at last!

By Josh Ellison

Continuing our weekly editorial on the various soil conditions to which shrubs are suited, this piece is devoted to the care, cultivation and establishment of shrubs in predominantly alkaline soil content. Soils of this nature are generally described as chalky, although they can vary considerably from stony and shallow, to clay-like. The only way to tell is by doing a soil test. Alkaline soils will be PH7.1 or above.

Floral & Hardy’s Top Ten Shrubs for Alkaline Soils:

Arbutus unedo

While slow growing, this unusual, large, evergreen shrub will show an abundance of leathery, dark green foliage accompanied in autumn by both the flowers and, at the same time, edible, but sadly flavourless, strawberry-like fruits. No pruning is required, but try to grow it in full sun.

Ceanothus ‘Italian Skies’

The ‘Californian Lilac’ is another evergreen cultivar whose glossy, emerald foliage will be festooned with wide cones of tiny, rich blue flowers in the later weeks of spring. This cultivar isn’t as tough as the Arbutus however and as such should be planted in a sheltered position with, as its name would suggest, plenty of sunlight.

Cistus pulverentus ‘Sunset’

The ‘Rock Rose’ is a low growing species of shrub and continues the run of evergreens on our list, but with magenta pink, saucer-shaped flowers possessed of bright yellow stamens in early summer. Once again ‘Sunset’ needs a sheltered position in full sun.

Deutzia ‘Pride of Rochester’

The ‘Pride of Rochester’ enters the running as the first deciduous cultivar. It is a medium-sized shrub with an upright habit, its pea- green foliage grows on long arching stems, and this will be coupled with dense clusters of small pink flowers running the entire length of the stems in June. To keep it flowering well, prune back shoots which have flowered once flowering has finished.

Fucshia magellanica ‘Riccartonii’

Among the more exotic-looking species mentioned we have the ‘Riccartonii’ - another upright deciduous shrub, though this cultivar is hung with complex, beautiful ,crimson and purple flowers from summer to autumn. In harsh winters frost may kill off the top growth, but don’t worry, cut the stems back to within a few centimetres of the ground in March.

Kerria japonica ‘Pleniflora’

‘Plenifora’ is a tall, vigorous shrub with arching stems and toothed green foliage. The cheerful, double, golden-yellow, pom-pom-like flowers appear from April to May. In June prune back the shoots which have flowered.

Lavandula ‘Hidcote’

English Lavender is a fairly common sight so I won’t bore you with a description, except to say that ‘Hidcote’ has particularly deep purple flowers over a long flowering season. It needs a moderately fertile soil with full exposure to sunlight and make sure you deadhead the obsolete flowers every autumn to ensure healthy growth.

Santolina chamaecyparissus

This aromatic small shrub has evergreen foliage and a compact growth habit. The foliage is a soft grey-green and will be offset by the plant’s yellow, button-like flowers in summer. They are susceptible to strong winds and should therefore be provided support or shelter. Also, trim over once flowering has finished in order to maintain a neat shape.

Syringa ‘Charles Joly’

An upright and elegant variety of Lilac, ‘Charles Joly’ is a deciduous cultivar with heart-shaped green foliage and scented, purple flowers from May to July. Lilacs are a very hardy species and will only require a minimal amount of maintenance in the form of cutting out any untidy branches once the flowers have faded.

Weigela ‘Wine and Roses’

Finally we have the ‘Wine and Roses’, in the titular sense anyway, whose deep pink, trumpet-shaped flowers will be on display from May to August, complemented well by the deep purple foliage. Despite their bombastic blooms, they’re also surprisingly hardy and will tolerate more or less any soil conditions. Once again, give them a prune once all the flowers have gone over.

Next week we’ll be covering another plant that prefers an alkaline soil – Clematis - and looking at a number of different varieties which, when grown in unison, can bloom in sequence providing a year-round source of vibrancy.

By Josh Ellison

With all the rain we’ve been having, we’re all familiar with the slimy menace that is the common garden slug and their infuriating taste for our favourite plants and their foliage. Of course there are many commonplace methods for dealing with the blighters however, much as we complain, our own native crawlers may have only been the harbinger of a greater approaching storm i.e. ‘Arion Flagellu’, aka the Spanish Stealth Slug, who, due to their superlative breeding capacity, look to be invading gardens across the country.

You may be curious as to why it is only now, after years of importing Spanish produce and greenery, that this species has reared its ugly, shiny, menacing head. The reason, sure enough, is believed to be related to the terrible weather we’ve been having lately - the abundance of rain we’ve been suffering has made it possible for this new breed of ‘super slug’ to gain a foothold in the British Isles. Due to its ability to sustain hundreds more eggs per breeding cycle, the stealth slug is able to multiply far more effectively and coupled with this, they bring with them a myriad of new diseases to which our native species have not had the opportunity to adapt and this aids the newcomers in overwhelming the competition.

In light of this approaching threat, we’re devoting this article to the most effective means of disposing of critters such as these, as tested in the field by our qualified slug busters, although if your preferred method is the hard heel of boot, then they may have to change the name from ‘Wellingtons’ to ‘Trafalgars’!

Now when it comes to extermination the important thing is to play to the enemy’s weaknesses, so what do we know? Slugs are slow, they’re slimy and, grim though it is, they’re cannibals. As such, one of the most effective, if somewhat horrifying, methods of disposal is to crush a couple of slugs near a hot spot (the shade of a hosta for example) and await for others to congregate around the free lunch, then squish them as well!

Salt

Next we have their susceptibility to dryness - most of us are familiar with the non-romance to be found between a slug and a salt-shaker (think wicked witch of the west). However not all of us want to spend our nectar points on chemical warfare, so below you’ll find a list of organic, cheap and effective alternatives that will see the malevolent molluscs falling in droves, or at least make them easier to collect and get rid of.

Copper

Coins, wiring, plates or sheets – copper bands for your pots can be bought from the garden centre, or if you can get your hands on scrap copper then use it to build a wall around your plants; the metal will react with the slime and act as a form of electrified fence.

Beer Pits

Any left-over beer from the weekend? Just because it’s flat, doesn’t mean it’s useless, build a trap in the form of a Tupperware box, or half a lemonade bottle half-filled with beer, and half submerge it -the scent will bring slugs in - their lack of water wings will keep them there!

Hair

Any hair left over from a home trim, or from pet grooming, makes for extremely uncomfortable sliding, giving the slugs both sore lacerations and pause for thought.

Egg Shells

The same principle applies – crushed egg shells are particularly abrasive to their soft bodies.

Orange Peel

Put down hollowed out orange or grapefruit peel and the slugs will congregate underneath them, making them easier to collect and dispose of.

Good luck!

By Josh Ellison

Although the majority of the past fortnight’s column space has been taken up by reviews and information pieces concerning the recent flower show at Hampton Court Palace, it’s important that we do not lose sight of the woodland for the trees - there are other garden festivals across England and one of the further flung examples happens to be on this week.

Tatton Park is one of the largest garden and horticulture events in Northern England and arguably the most innovative in the entire country. It is the site of the Young Designer of the Year Award, not to mention endorsing such projects as the Orchestra Gardens that will grace this year’s show with a new-found breed of horticultural synaesthesia. Needless to say, the prestige of this event is assured by the inclusion of such television personalities as Chris Beardshaw and his partnership with the gardening charity ‘Groundwork’ at this year’s show.

Alongside these new additions we have the ‘Back to Back’ Gardens project which specialises in smaller gardens, hence the titular formation of their plots that allow for the maximum utilisation of the space available. With a maximum area of six metres by four, these gardens are centred mainly on conceptual originality, by focusing lots of creativity into a small space and, due to their size, a designer can cover dozens of different methodologies in a relatively short time period, thereby getting a concentrated dose of inspiration.

Just when they thought gardens could go no smaller, Tatton devised the School ‘Front to Front’ Gardens initiative with an even more restricted canvas of only three square metres whose motivation is to provide school children from across the North West an opportunity to create their own personal gardens. The project is run in partnership with Winsford Education and is sponsored by banking mogul Barclays and this year will include over twenty designs centric to the themes of 1950’s and 60’s children’s television programming. On top of that, the same schools will have the chance to raise their window boxes and competitively grow their own trugs of vegetables and fruit, which has been run hand in hand with the RHS Summer Fruit and Vegetable Competition.

Another of Tatton’s numerous highlights is the Visionary Gardens competition that encourages gardens that push the boundaries of horticulture as an art form and also those which put particular emphasis on the inclusion and integration of installations and sculptures as part of the display. 

One of these in particular has caught our eye due to its similarity in theme to the Orchestral gardens idea and, as such, we are seeing something of a thematic prevalence in the use of sound in this year’s gardens. ‘Untie the Wind’, Sheena Seeks’ contribution to the visionaries, is designed as a kind of love letter to wind instruments. The centrepiece of the garden - a large hollow pipe - is complemented by the path that traverses the garden’s length, taking you on the literal journey of air through Sheeks’ flute… or sax… or trombone.

 Whichever instruments you care to apply to this wonderfully innovative project, the only way to hear the music for yourself is to get along there, so what are you waiting for?

By Josh Ellison

Following on from our preview of this year’s flower show at Hampton Court Palace, we have kept an ear to the grindstone during the event last week and feel we are now ready to adequately report on the goings on at Hampton Court, including the winners of the show and those that most immediately peaked our attention.

So to begin proceedings, I’d like to revert to an aforementioned project from this years ‘Low cost, High Impact’ category that we gave some bearing to in our preview of the flower show. ‘Our First Home’ this year went home with the gold medal for its criteria and judges noted the innovative use of differing heights to evoke the illusion of space and also the allocation of specific tasks to specific areas of the garden, especially given its meagre budget of £7,000.

Now to discuss the ‘Best in Show’ garden, whose prestige is obviously somewhat more pronounced than their category-specific counterparts. This year’s winner was one designed around, and in reaction to, the themes of adversity inherent to those who suffer from OAB (Over Active Bladder Syndrome). The garden in question was aptly named ‘Bridge Over Troubled Water’ and its elements were selected to represent the various symptoms of the affliction and the means by which they can be overcome, for example the gardens centrepiece - a large whirlpool - is fairly indicative of the act of relief itself from these symptoms and also of the unpredictability for which their occurrence is known. Using this pool as the inanimate villain of the garden, a tree line is employed to encourage the eyes to look upward from the mire - for such a depth can arouse feelings of despair and isolation - and across the titular bridge and, more figuratively, the promise of freedom.

Finally, let’s devote some words to the conceptual designs of this year’s show as I personally found these to be the among the most interesting projects at this year’s Hampton Court - even if the in-house judges disagreed with me. This year one of the leading themes has been that of survival and perseverance, and with no designer does this ring truer than with new face Mathew Childs, whose personal story inspired his own creation. With an eye for the concept of recovery, Matthew based ‘Light at the End of the Tunnel’ around his experiences of the London Bombings and his journey to normalcy. It is this transitional period on which he has tried to focus, because at the end of it now stands the man himself, saved from despair by his new found occupation as a garden designer.

This experience is personified by both the architecture and the plant choices of Childs’ design, the space is dominated by a large artificial tunnel and at the beginning of this course one is shrouded in shade and moss though as the journey progresses, this constriction lessens and you find yourself in a much lighter environ populated by equally lighter plants.

By Josh Ellison

The Royal Horticultural Society gets a lot of column space in our editorials and not without just cause as this organisation is the single governing body for all major horticultural activities across England and Wales. But it’s not just about the shows; the RHS doesn’t get nearly enough recognition for all that it has achieved. As such, we’d like to devote this article to celebrating the history of the RHS, the initiatives that they’re affiliated with,  and also the communities and individuals they’ve helped to gain awareness, experience and appreciation for ecology and, of course, horticulture.

The RHS was begun in 1804 by Sir Joseph Banks and John Wedgewood as the Horticultural Society of London and gained its present name in a Royal Charter in 1861. Since then it has become a symbol for plant care and for the continued welfare and education of children in the field of horticulture - in fact the number of children regularly aided in this respect is now in excess of two million!

Over 1,700 communities across England and Wales enjoy the support of the RHS, and all from humble beginnings in a single show garden in Kensington. We’ve already explored exhaustively the benefits that projects such as ‘Britain in Bloom’ have granted the public both in terms of their local aesthetic and, on a larger scale, in terms of global ecology and sustainability.

But that’s not all - the RHS also champions research into new plant varieties and ways to deal with pests and diseases, as well as looking at climate change and biodiversity.

Their mission statement is as follows: ‘Our mission is to be the leading organisation demonstrating excellence in horticulture and promoting gardening’. To achieve this, the RHS, once every three years, establishes a tri-year plan by which they set smaller objective to feed into this original aim:

‘It is our intention to:

1. Be known, loved and trusted as the charity for all gardeners

2. Safeguard and advance the science, art and practice of horticulture for the benefit of future generations and the environment

3. Transform communities through gardening

4. Create world leading horticulture that inspires people to garden

5. Nurture and grow our membership throughout the UK

6. Provide a voice for all gardeners

7. Share and build expert knowledge

8. Delight our customers with exceptional service and products

9. Be a great place to work where everyone makes a difference

10. Have efficient business practices that deliver maximum income for our charitable purpose’

Having absorbed this information you may now be asking how you can help to support the charity itself - well I’ll tell you - become a member of the RHS. Aside from providing the awareness that organisations such as these require to survive, you’ll also reap the benefits of what membership can offer i.e. free entry to any of the society’s 80 gardens around the country, and a discount on future show ticket prices. As a member you’ll also get a free monthly magazine, and be able to access personalised gardening advice and take advantage of their wealth of knowledge regarding pests and diseases too. Well worth it I think.

This is only one man’s opinion, but with a history and reputation like the RHS’s, it is a well-informed one – you can find details of membership costs and an application on the RHS website.

By Josh Ellison

‘…A Room Outside’

Paraphrasing Birling House’s Board of Trustees’ former chairlady, Mrs Margaret Ivell, ‘A Room Outside’ is the description she gave to Floral & Hardy’s design for a communal garden at Birling House at a recent party to celebrate its opening. Birling House is a care home in Snodland, Kent, owned and operated on behalf of The Mortimer Society which specialises in the care of those who suffer with learning disabilities, and more specifically Parkinson’s and Huntington’s disease.

The design and build process was made possible by one of the care home’s residents, and now one of its major benefactors, Liz, for whom the garden is named and whose mother put the vast majority of the funding necessary to make this project possible. The design phase began in January and according to Birling House’s Chief Executive, Paul Studd, the top priorities of the space were accessibility and interactivity.

Due to the severe nature of some of Birling House’s residents’ conditions, it was paramount that it be made more accessible, both physically and visually. Paving had already been laid near to the buildings, but the rest of the garden was laid to lawn with some rather uninspiring flower beds around the edges. While the original paving could be kept and integrated into the new garden, new paths and stable, paved seating areas needed to be added in order for the residents’ large wheelchairs to have easy access to the whole space.

One of the other major innovations was the use of raised beds - knowing that many of the residents at Birling House were wheelchair-bound, our designer, Helen Ellison, adjusted the heights of the central flower beds a) to ensure they could be viewed directly from a seated position and b) that the foliage and flowers themselves were in easy reaching distance from either side of the beds. To further encourage such interactions Helen incorporated species such as Stachys and Pennisetum into the beds that are known for having soft, furry leaves and fluffy, ‘squirrel-tail’ flower heads respectively.

It was important that the garden be stimulating on a multi-sensory level and this included everything from the feel of the foliage, to Bamboos providing aural stimulation when shaken by the wind, together with the gentle sound of water trickling over the central water feature. 

The sense of smell was looked after by a careful selection of scented climbing plants on the pergola, including Roses, Jasmine and Honeysuckle, while the eye is drawn to colourful, vibrant perennials, such as Crocosmia, Hemerocallis and Geraniums.

As part of the residents’ contribution to the garden, the Birling House Activities Team also collected their thoughts on what to include in the garden and the most popular theme was colour. In response to this, Mr. Paul Studd and the rest of his team devised some homemade lanterns from recycled glass bottles to be hung over the beds.

Another major theme that dictated much of the atmosphere of the garden was whether to include the existing large mural painted by a former carer at Birling House. It was originally thought that it would have to be removed or painted over for the garden, however, with a little creativity, Helen was able to integrate part of its scenery into a large water feature at the back of the space and thus save the picture.

When asked how he rated the project’s success, weighed against its original mission statement, Paul Studd remarked that it was ‘Wonderful’, citing the cleanliness and politeness of the labourers during the building, and that the whole process had been a joy, while one of the board’s Trustees had this to say:

“Wonderful, really wonderful..… and the main thing is that sense of taking part interactivity.”

And it really was great to see the garden being used for the purpose for which it was built – for everyone to use and enjoy.

By Josh Ellison

Quite a stir has been kicked up in Austria this week, specifically at the annual meeting in Salzburg for the Society for Experimental Biology, where the main focus has been on the seemingly detrimental affect that potted environments are having on house plants. The findings are the product of an investigation led by Dr. Henrik Poorter of the Julich research institute in Germany into the potential affects of pot size on the root growth of house plants.

Originally studies like these focused on the miniaturisation of potted plants i.e. the minimum amount of space that could healthily support them (thus making them more commercially viable). However, the research undertaken by Dr. Poorter and specifically the new utilisation of Magnetic Resonance Imaging, or MRI, has revealed some perturbing implications.

The MRI, which was programmed specifically to identify water within the root structures of the plants, revealed that the majority of the case studies would quickly reach and consolidate at the outermost edge of the container and much of the soil between the two remained hollow.

Quickly following the time of planting, in some cases in less than a fortnight, the doctor explained, the plants’ roots would stretch to the edge of the pots.  Poorter voiced his opinion based on the correlating behavior between the 80 species that had been studied,

“"When they reach the edge, they send some kind of signal to the shoots to say, 'there's a problem - stop growing'."

The MRI works similarly to the sonar systems of a submarine in that it emits magnetic waves which are then reflected by masses of varying density and then records these densities in colours specified by the operator.

But, Dr Poorter said: "We want to make plants as happy as possible."

While this is seemingly a sentimental philosophy to take on a plants well-being, as long as we continue to encourage behaviours that inhibit their growth we will never be equipped to measure their full potential, thereby making their production, propagation and conservation far less efficient. On a domestic level, it might mean that you are not getting the best out of your house plants.

So I suppose the obvious question is ‘What can we do about it?’ Well plenty to be honest - start by taking your smaller house plants from their pots and having a good look at the roots. If they are crammed around the edge of the pot, or even coming out of the holes at the bottom, it’s probably time to pot them on.

Choose a new pot that is only a little bigger than the one it’s in (you should be able to fit about two fingers between the edge of the rootball and the new pot) as, if you use one that’s too big, water will sit in the new soil and possibly cause rot. Put a little potting compost in the bottom and sit the plant on top and then fill in with compost round the sides and firm down so there aren’t any air pockets. Always leave a bit of room at the top to allow for watering.

Once you’ve done this, there are some basics to remember no matter what your genus.

Indirect Sunlight

One of the major things we can agree upon is that plants need light, most living things do, however, being overzealous in this respect can be catastrophic as window panes will magnify any sunlight passing through them and this can scorch the leaves of tropical plants, so it’s often best to choose a north-facing window. Of course during the winter this is less of a concern and you can take advantage of the sporadic sunlight in those months by moving your plants directly adjacent to a south-facing window. It’s also important for most house plants to avoid draughts, so be careful with that.

Watering

Watering is slightly trickier as every plant has a different appetite that is nigh impossible to judge by eye, so, instead judge by hand - if you’re worried that an orchid or rose might be getting thirsty then push one fingertip into the soil, if it’s still damp then stay your watering can. Remember - brown leaves and wilting are often as not caused by overwatering, rather than underwatering. If you have a water butt, use the water from that rather than tap water and your plants will appreciate it.

Feeding

There’s a reason flower retailers include a sachet with your bouquets  - liquid feeder is one of the most universally effective means of providing nutrition to your plants. It can be diluted and multiplied by the addition of water, soaks easily into any soil type and can be easily stored when not in use. Use one high in potassium for flowering plants as this will intensify their colours, though feeding should take place most vigorously from March to September which is generally the flowering time for most house plants.

By Josh Ellison

Will the Jubilations never end? We hope not, as they’ve provided a garden shed-load of distraction for this journalist for all the horticultural pursuits it’s encouraged in HM’s honour, and this week is no exception, as today we’re reporting on the extraordinary turfing of York Minster - done a few weeks ago to provide a living carpet for a dinner party some 900 guests strong!

The head caretaker of York Minster, Minister Chamberlain Dr. Richard Shephard has explained not only the benefits, but the necessity of such a grand undertaking,

"The need for funds to restore and conserve the historic fabric of the Minster is never-ending," he said.

"I'm sure this extraordinary event will do much to assist us in our work."

Installed across the 1,500 sq. m floor space that makes up the nave of the Minster, the material was previously used to stage an indoor rugby match at London’s Grosvenor Hotel, however, its presence in York was in a somewhat more protective role. Due to the extreme antiquity of the Cathedral, the toughened fibres from which the turf was recycled make for the perfect buffering material to protect the flagstones from the weight of nearly a thousand people, before and after they’ve eaten.

Other applications of the material, which is composed entirely of recycled materials and without the need for soil, have included the temporary establishment of a faux village green in Trafalgar Square and also in the upholstering of various types of grass based furniture.

Due to the profile of some of the guests attending the dinner, and also its royal implications, the grass turf has made news as an excellent fund-raising stunt, much to the Minister’s, and his parishioner’s approval, however, the event is not only in celebration of the Diamond Jubilee, but also in honour of the Minister of the Minster himself.

At this year’s Chelsea flower show a new species of rose was presented, the aptly named ‘York Minster’ Rose, and this also held one of the highlights of the ceremony, for which the charity dinner was held.

Among the guests attending the soirée were the acting Dean Canon Glyn Webster, the Archbishop of York, Dr John Sentamu, Lord Halifax and Lord Crathorne. Those of us who were hoping to buy tickets were bitterly disappointed as the £150 passes sold out months before, almost immediately upon their release. Pity, I’d like to have seen this extraordinary sight for myself!

By Josh Ellison

While it is possible to tailor the content of your soil or mulch in order to suit whichever cultivars you wish to plant, it is generally best to go with what you’ve got. By all means improve it with compost or well-rotted manure, but basically the particular acid or alkaline levels of your garden will always eventually prevail. So in this article, and following ones, we’ll be covering shrubs suited to varying degrees of acidity and this week’s concerns those comfortable at Ph. 6 and below, or acidic soils.

It’s easy to test your soil with a small, inexpensive test kit you can buy at the garden centre, but it’s always good to take samples from different areas in the garden to make sure you don’t get a rogue reading!

Floral & Hardy’s Top Ten Shrubs for Acid Soils

Acer palmatum dissectum ‘Garnet’

‘Garnet’ is a small, mound-forming shrub with finely-cut, purple foliage which turns bright scarlet in autumn. Great for Japanese style gardens.

Azalea (Rhododendron) ‘Gibraltar’

This deciduous Azalea is a vibrant addition to any bed or border as they are possessed of an upright, spreading habit and will display broad, oblong leaves accompanied by fragrant, bright orange flowers in late spring. They also have good autumn foliage, but you should ensure they are well sheltered and kept away from a northern aspect.

Calluna ‘H.E. Beale’

A hardy species of Heather, this cultivar is small and wide with autumnal pink flowering and green, scrub-like foliage. They perform best in direct sunlight and as such should not be overly sheltered.

Camellia ‘Adolphe Audusson’

An erect evergreen shrub, ‘Adolphe’ is large and dense, with glossy leaves and broad, vibrant flowers of deep red with bright yellow stamens. They are tolerant of most aspects except East facing, don’t mind shade and, like their counterparts on this list, they prefer a moist but well-drained soil.

Enkianthus campanulatus

Otherwise known as the ‘Redvein Enkianthus’, this large deciduous shrub produces clumps of creamy, red-tinged flowers from late spring to early summer and in the autumn the foliage will change to brilliant oranges, reds and yellows. Ideally planted in semi-shade with plenty of shelter.

Hamamelis intermedia ‘Diane’

The romantically named ‘Witch Hazel’ is a large deciduous shrub with an open habit whose emerald foliage will turn to a heady orange/red in autumn and in winter will bear fragrant flowers with matching colours. Any aspect will do here, though it is important that the plant receive some shelter from the elements.

Kalmia latifolia

The ‘Mountain Laurel’ is an evergreen shrub with glossy, dark-green leaves  and in summer it will bear clusters of grand pink/white flowers, however be warned that the leaves of this plant are highly toxic to ingest. They prefer partial shade to sun and a south facing aspect.

Pernettya mucronata ‘Mulberry Wine’

One of the smaller entrants to our list, this thicket forming specimen will show small, spiny leaves and small white flowers in summer followed by beautiful, glossy, magenta-purple berries. It prefers partial, or full shade and humus-rich soil content - also ensure they are well-drained.

Pieris ‘Forest Flame’

‘Forest Flame’ is an evergreen shrub with light green foliage with spectacular red new growth and a clustered collection of white, lily-of-the-valley-like flowers in spring. It is recommended you plant this cultivar in full sunlight.

Rhododendron ‘Purple Splendour’

Another Rhododendron to cap off our list, although this time an evergreen one, and as the name would suggest this cultivar will bloom with large, purple flowers in late spring. They prefer partial shade or full sun and well-drained soil.

By Josh Ellison

This week in the news we have the debate on the relative ecological value of ‘brownfield’ sites across London and the rest of the UK. For a long time these sites, which include, but are not limited to exhausted quarries, disused railway lines and gravel pits, were targeted as a waste of valuable agricultural or commercial space, it has been gradually emerging that perhaps they’ve been serving a far more significant purpose than potential developers could have imagined.

Before we continue, I’d like to take a moment to reflect on the rising importance of green corridors in the UK and more specifically in urban areas - their purpose, as the name would suggest, is to afford safe passage to different wildlife species across large areas of urbanisation and particularly where food or nesting grounds may be scarce.

In relation to brownfield zones, these corridors’ only difference in definition with the brownfields is the species of plant life that exist there. While many consider the flora of brownfield little more than a weed infested wasteland, TV personality Bill Oddie recognises the ecological importance of these hardy, numerous and naturally occurring wildflower collections.

This new-found initiative for the preservation of brownfields ecology has been spearheaded by the charity trust, Butterfly Conservation and not without reason - you see a very rare species of moth named the ‘Small Ranunculus’ has been sighted quite frequently using these urban meadows as nesting and breeding grounds. This particular species hasn’t been sighted in the UK since before World War Two and as such magazine ‘Insect Journal Atropos’ has responded by imploring their readership, where safe and legal to do so, to check out their local brownfields zones and keep their eyes peeled for any unfamiliar species, to be catalogued in further defence of the brownfields zones.

Richard Fox, a representative of Butterfly Conservation, spoke out on behalf of the brownfields topic stating that:

"An old spoil tip [for example] would be terrible if you wanted to create a garden, but it's great for wildlife, because the poor soil leads to slow development of diverse plants."

And tips are only one example of the potential sites for biodiversity that Brownfields can offer - we’re all familiar with the areas that line the Thames river front and litter the surround of Battersea, however, what most of us don’t know is that the weedy patches of concrete that we find so unpleasant form their own microclimates, as they’re unique in their ability to absorb heat from the sun and, as such, are a welcome sight to travelling insects and even small mammals, toads and snakes.

In light of this information, it is essential that we begin pledging our support to the further preservation and, more importantly, research concerning the ecological potential of Brownfields sites. As the Olympic gardens have demonstrated, there is now more than ever a need for the propagation of native wildflower species within the UK in order to ensure the continuation of our endemic plant species without whom we might be robbed of our environmental identity.

By Josh Ellison

In light of the ruddy awful weather we’ve been having these past few weeks, we thought we’d have a look at plants that would positively adore this deluge that the weather services have promised will continue well into July and perhaps into August!

We’ll cover other provisions for heavy rainfall - sandbags and other preventative measures for flooding - in a later periodical, however, this week we’ll just be talking about which types of perennials are suited to damper conditions.

Floral & Hardy’s Top Ten Plants for Damp Spots:

Astilbe ‘Fanal’

This is an upright perennial with towers of clustered blooms that will show in a deep reddish-pink throughout summer. They have attractive leaves, a clump forming habit and usually prefer shade and a soil that is rich in loam content.

Caltha palustris

Other names for this plant include ‘Water Goggles’, ‘Water Gowan’ and ‘Water Buttercup’. Now the linguists among you will have already noticed the correlation in all those monikers - the bright yellow flowers love the rain, the sunshine and a damp, loamy soil.

Cimicifuga ‘White Pearl’

This is a clump-forming, herbaceous perennial possessed of pale green foliage and tall arches of white flowers that bloom densely throughout the summer and tail down in the autumn. They’re a delicate flower and it would be prudent to provide some shelter and some shade.

Hemerocallis fulva ‘Flore Pleno’

This is a semi-evergreen, herbaceous perennial with a clump-forming habit and bright green, strap-like leaves. Given some sun, it will bear large, vibrant, trumpet-shaped blooms with deep red centres surrounded by rich orange colouring throughout summer.

Iris ensata

The ‘Japanese Water Iris’ is an upright, rhizomatous perennial with bell-shaped, lavender flowers. It has a clump-forming habit and will show these red-purple flowers throughout summer and into early autumn.

Ligularia dentata ‘Desdemona’

Otherwise known as the ‘Leopard Plant’ this robust, clump former will show large, yellow, daisy-like flowers with ruddy, orange stamen throughout summer and autumn, contrasting well with its large purple leaves. They prefer a dense soil type, ideally clay or loam and a sunny spot to grow in.

Lobelia cardinalis ‘Queen Victoria’

Though short-lived, this perennial certainly burns twice as brightly to compensate, showing erect stems weighed with small crimson flowers from June to September, contrasting with its purple foliage and stems. Also, for its short life span it is incredibly easy to grow as it has little preference in terms of its conditions being tolerant to most soil types, full sun or partial shade.

Lythrum saliaria ‘Firecandle’

Another clump-forming perennial, the ‘Firecandle’ is named for both its colour and shape, it is an erect species that grown to height in excess of a metre and, if this were not eye catching enough, it also sports rich pink flowers along the length of its spires.

Rodgersia pinnata ‘Chocolate Wings’

‘Chocolate Wings’, named for its large, veined, chocolate coloured foliage, is a shade-loving, rhizomatous perennial with a clump-forming habit, this foliage will deepen in colour with age and grow to about 80cms high. Plumes of pinkish flowers appear in summer.

Zantedeschia aethiopica ‘Crowborough’

Arguably the most aesthetically focused flower on our list, the ‘Arum Lily’ is simply magnificent. It will bear trumpets of pure white with yellow stamen on slender, upright stems from rosettes of large bright green leaves. For best results, plant in boggy conditions where a high loam content is present.

By Josh Ellison

One of the major events in horticulture has been the stir caused by HRH Prince Charles’ comments at the 20th anniversary of the UN’s ecological summit in Rio de Janeiro. Rio+20 took a decided focus on the current condition of our global climate and also the deterioration of our environment, how our actions are affecting it and what the potential consequences of this might be if human intervention is left unchecked.

HRH identified the problems we face by previous attitudes towards them and that by continuing with similar intentions we doom ourselves to failure,

"It is, perhaps, a trait of human nature to act only when the worst happens, but that is not a trait we can afford to rely on here…

…Once the worst does happen, I am afraid that this time around it will be too late to act at all."

One of the major points of Charles’ address was the need to consolidate the currently segregated categories of planetary health - the major players being water, air, forest, biodiversity and soil, and while the study of these criteria remains separated by expertise, sponsorship or manpower, we will be hopelessly uneducated as to our planet’s health when the time comes to improve it.

However, the ecological summit assumed only one part of the proceedings and, in keeping with the themes of the original conference, the social and economic development of our race, whose primary side effect would be a significant increase in the resources of our planet and the pollution produced as a result.

At our current rate of growth it is predicted that the Earth’s population will rise to upwards of 8.5 billion people by 2015 and to 15 billion by 2100. Since 1960 our planetary consumption has tripled to half a world more than Earth can independently produce. As a result of this, artificially intensive harvesting methods are required, the majority of which are still based on fossil fuels.

And while HRH highlights the Amazon as one of the most threatened regions of biodiversity, Latin America hosts one of the most wildly eclectic ecosystems on the planet, which, not coincidentally, was one of the major developmental points of the conference. As one of the poorest regions in the world, countries such as Bolivia suffer from a severely undernourished population and as a result the UN Ambassadors have endeavoured to halve the number of hunger sufferers globally by 2015.

As a result of our increased population growth we have begun exponentially consuming raw materials such as lumber and animals that, among others, are the foundation of our planetary ecosystem. The summits current findings were drawn against those of the 1992 gig and it was found that the average person consumes 9kg more meat per year just twenty years later! Much of this can be linked to the import of foreign goods, particularly to developed countries that supported such luxurious consumers.

It is this element of luxury through consumerist design that has led to a surplus in demand and the subsequent lack of supply. The nonchalance of the richest countries, those in a position to affect global change, arises from the fact that they aren’t made directly vulnerable by the change they’re contributing to, and thus unfortunately have less impetus to do anything about it.

Something’s got to change…

By Josh Ellison

As a follow up to our article concerning Project LEAF and the initiatives underway to prevent further forest crime, we thought you’d like to know how you could create your own natural woodland, and thus supplement in some small way those forests that have been decimated by illegal logging.

Aside from forestry as a whole, by establishing your own woodland you’ll also be providing desperately needed habitats for Britain’s wildlife - every ecosystem begins with vegetation and, as such, it is impossible to judge the value of long term woodland habitats. Of course, in order to make the best foundation for domestic wildlife it is important to tailor your plant choices according to what our endemic fauna is accustomed to, so try to plant a majority of native deciduous trees, shrubs and perennials wherever possible.

Below you’ll find a few examples species we’d recommend as base plants for your woodland:

Trees

Oak

 

 

 

Ash

 

 

 

Silver Birch

 

 

 

Field Maple

 

 

 

Shrubs

Guelder Rose

Green Holly

Variegated Holly

Hazel

Hazel nuts

Buckthorn

Perennials and Bulbs

Foxgloves

 

Bluebells

Wood Anemones

Primroses

Fern

Fern leaf underside

These plants were selected based on their durability (in light of recent weather conditions!) and their being native to our shores. As such they should provide an excellent and natural base to your microcosm while strengthening the numbers of the British woodland. They should be planted in a random, natural-looking manner, rather than in regimented rows or planting beds. Go out into natural woodlands and look at how things seed themselves around and try to emulate that in your own space.

But be warned, it should be remembered that whilst a project like this has an abundance of obvious advantages, foremost of which perhaps is a garden teeming with wildlife, it can also be a difficult and lengthy undertaking, not guaranteed to succeed and requiring diligent care to get it established.

To aid the sustainability of the project, and to enhance the natural woodland feel, you should aim wherever possible to use reclaimed materials endemic to the British isles, for example, when laying pathways be sure to consider reclaimed railway sleepers, sliced tree trunks for stepping stones or simply locally produced bark chippings. To further reduce the carbon footprint of your construction phase, consider seating made from recycled logs or stone.

However, in the end, a garden can only be judged by the amount of enjoyment derived by the user and those they share it with, so make sure to include focal points. As an example a small clearing or naturalised pond can create an excellent centrepiece, the first for its rich autumnal colours and the second for the concentration of wildlife it will bring. While it may seem a great deal of work establishing such a large ecosystem in the back yard, bear in the mind the myriad of wildlife that such an environment will attract and, aside from your own enjoyment, how much you’ll be able to entertain and educate the family with such a space. If this doesn’t convince you, at least consider the aid you’ll be giving our slow march back to a sustainable planet.

By Josh Ellison

With all the rain we’ve been having lately, it means that either you’ve got a really lush garden, or if you’re one of the unlucky ones who’ve had it really bad, something that resembles more of a swamp, but, at the height of summer (!) it is important to continue to tend to all the jobs necessary to maintain a healthy garden throughout July, August and the rest of the seasonal year.

We simply don’t have the column space for everything you need to be doing, but here are just some of the tasks you should be thinking of:

Dead-Heading

Dead-heading is one of the most frequent, subtle and effective forms of maintenance for repeat-flowering perennials and bedding plants - it ensures healthy growth and the promise of further blooming of the flowers in question. After all, spending a lot of money on planting acres of beautiful flowers is all well and good, but, unless those flowers bloom continuously, you’re not getting the true value and will miss out on a summer long show of colour. Ensure you take the whole flower head, including the base, so that it doesn’t get the chance to set seed, otherwise you’re wasting your time!

Clematis Wilt

One of the most popular climbing plants, the Clematis, is highly susceptible to wilt fungus, particularly the larger flowering examples of the species. Commonly the fungus will cause rapid wilting of the plant’s foliage and stems - in severe cases, or without due attention, it can lead to the death of the plant. You can spot the onset of Clematis wilt by the discolouration of both the stems and their leaves, newly affected areas will show blackened patches. As soon as you see this, cut out the affected parts and get rid of them. The best means to prevent this blight in the first place is to ensure that your cultivar is planted in deep, fertile soil, at least 15cms above the soil level in the pot, so as to provide adequate encouragement for strong, healthy root growth. If you’re concerned about the fertility of your soil then some light turning of organic mulch into the ground should provide a welcome nutrient boost to the plant. You could also plant varieties that are less susceptible to wilt, such as the montanas, alpinas, or the viticella types.

Watering

This is an obvious entry for a list of summer jobs but no less important for it, but it would be all too easy to take the heavy-handed approach of daily watering of all the plants. However,  Britain frankly doesn’t have the fluid to spare this summer, if the hose pipe ban we were exposed to in the earlier months of this year wasn’t clue enough. Conversely this should not mean that your plants wilt from drought either  - common sense obviously applies. Giving a thorough watering once a week is better than a light sprinkling every day, although plants in pots may need watering every day in dry spells. Ensure that you lift the foliage of bushier plants too, so that water isn’t uselessly evaporated upon the leaves instead of reaching the roots.

Lawncare

Another vulnerable area of the garden, particularly during the summer months, is the lawn which can turn brown and crisp after just a few days neglect. To ensure that your lawn remains healthy, green and lush throughout the hot season get in early with a quick-acting summer feed and water once a week in dry weather, although it should be remembered that lawns will soon recover once we get a drop of rain. If like us though you’ve had a lot of wet weather, you’ll probably find your grass is tall and lush, so keep up with the mowing on dry days, otherwise, if you leave it too long, when you do cut it, you might find it turning brown underneath!

Off the Woodwork

Finally, as a change to all the preventative measures we’ve suggested, we have a job that actually takes advantage of this hot weather rather than shying away from it; the vast majority of domestic gardens have some form of carpentry. Be it decking, fencing, sculpture or just the plain old garden shed, nearly every home garden you can think of will have some timber that is exposed year in year out to the elements, so, while the sun is shining, why not take the opportunity to reapply a good layer of paint or sealant to aid the durability of these structures. It is essential these tasks be carried out in fair weather as it gives the sealants time to bond to the wood before damp can halt the process, and what time like the present?

By Josh Ellison