Plant division is one of the most common, not to mention cost effective practices that ensures consistent propagation. This means you can get new plants that are true to the original for free, and now is a good time to do it for many cultivars. In this piece we’ll discuss the proper approaches, the do’s and don’ts, and a selection of perennial plants that can be divided in order to increase their numbers.

Generally speaking division is considered a tri-annual activity, as its primary purpose is to maintain the health of the original specimen, particularly where perennials are concerned, as they can often become overcrowded and unproductive. However, it can be performed more regularly for purposes of propagation, and it is in this regard that timing becomes of paramount interest as, though many plants will tolerate division at more or less any time of year, best results are achieved when their growth cycle is considered and catered to. The universal rule of division is to avoid doing so during the period when the plant is actively growing and flowering, therefore, a summer flowering cultivar should undergo the process during autumn or spring, ideally during a dry period that will make the soil easier to manipulate, while the majority of spring bloomers, e.g. Irises, should be treated in late summer once they have completed their flowering, because it is at this point they’re most actively producing new roots.

Now that we’ve established the ‘when’, we’ll discuss the ‘how’ – the act of division itself and, no matter the size of your perennials, every division begins with a pair of garden forks, or hand forks, depending on the size of the plant, which should be applied back to back to prise the roots apart. Do it gingerly in order to minimise the risk of root damage and a good rule of thumb is to start from the edge of the roots’ circumference and work your way in. 

The majority of small, fibrous-rooted perennials, including varieties like Heuchera, Hosta and Epimedium, can be both exhumed and divided with relative ease. Relative to their size, larger cultivars such as Hemerocallis may require the use of a pair of forks sunk directly in the crown and then, using their collective leverage to split the root base in two; further division can take place after this is completed. 

We must also consider those perennials like Helleborus or Delphinium, that have woody crowns and fleshy roots respectively, where it may be the case that a sharp knife or spade needs to be employed to get the job done. Finally, there are some plants that will produce individual plantlets on runners, which can be gently teased from the earth one by one and be immediately replanted.

Other perennials that can be divided to provide new plants include; Agapanthus, Bergenia, Convallaria, Dierama, Euphorbia, Gentiana, Helianthus, Primula and Verbena, among many others.

When re-planting the newly divided plants, it’s always a good idea to give them a bit of a feed, so sprinkle some organic fertiliser into the planting holes before putting them in. Make sure the soil is gently firmed in around the roots too, so that there are no air pockets which would cause the roots to dry out.

The next necessity for successful division may seem an obvious one, but its significance bears its mention – water, water, water. The reason frequent watering is so essential to healthy propagation is that, in order to maintain the host plant, you must supplement the sudden loss of mass that equates to a loss of absorption, and obviously the new plants will need a drink too.

So, best of luck to those of you who take advantage of, quite frankly, a financially and personally rewarding practise and don’t forget – you can often straightaway divide new plants you buy from the garden centre too to get even more plants for free!

By Josh Ellison

A couple of weeks ago, the RHS celebrated its London Orchid Show in fine style, exhibiting the very best of England’s cultivars and awarding those of special merit. One of the country’s most prolific growers -The Chantelle Nursery - made quite an impact on the show with their Cattleya hybrids - a beautiful selection of vibrant colours, the most notable among these being the golden variety ‘Hsiang Yu Beauty’ and the bright pink ‘Bright Sun’.

The McBean nursery were also held in the judges’ high regard, as they introduced unorthodox cultivar ‘Jester’ which was possessed of a tri-lipped petal structure and marvellous tones of purple on white. Alongside this they were also exhibiting the unusually coloured ‘Mcbean’s Laura’, which made waves as being one of the darkest amongst the Oncidium that the nursery had ever produced.

Unsurprisingly, the Orchid Society of Great Britain also made an appearance at the show and chose Robert Louis Stevenson’s adventure tale ‘Treasure Island’ as their theme, and materialised this concept with a sand, moss and cork bark cliff face, built as a living microcosm populated by several different varieties of orchid.

Ratcliffe Orchids were also on show, with a stunning collection of unusual copper sculptures of some of their most easy on the eye cultivars; they also specialised this year in slipper orchids.

The Writhlington School Orchid Project exhibit featured an example of their work in Laos, and also a brief history of the progression of some of the projects most senior specimens - some of which were over twenty years old! The project also prepared a naturalistic arrangement of their flowers in conjunction with their appearance, as the students perceived it, in their endemic environment.

There were also a selection of seminars and discussions concerning the practices of orchid culture which the nursery representatives gave throughout the afternoon and these speakers included RHS gold medalists Zoe Barnes and Zoe Parfitt, who spoke on the Saturday about the potential benefits of a greenhouse free garden, in their talk entitled ‘No Greenhouse? No Problem!’

The other gold medalists of the show included Helen and David Millner for their educational display, and the Eric Young Orchid foundation for their variety of different cultivars. The Eric Young foundation also won the award for best exhibit in the show, adding to their already impressive tally of accolades.

Of course, talking a long time about ice cream and then not getting any is a frustrating endeavour, so below we’ve listed some do’s and don’ts of caring for Orchids at home:

1. Let’s start with the basics - a common first mistake is that, in finding out that Orchids originate in tropical climes, the beginner will often drown them for fear of doing the opposite, however, your average Orchid rarely needs watering more than once a week. Water from the top and ensure that the plant is not left standing in water for long periods of time.

2. The generosity of your fertilising habits is also a thin line to toe, as over indulgence can burn the roots and inhibit flowering, while doing it too infrequently can stunt the growth of the plant. A good rule of thumb is to supplement the flower with Orchid specific food once a month and remember that every food is different, so always follow the instructions given on the product.

3. Light is a tricky one with Orchids as, with a deficiency of it they will never flower, however, over-exposure can cause the leaves to turn red and blotchy. Ideally they should stand on a window sill where sunlight will be regular, but indirect - rich, dark green foliage is a sign of healthy light exposure.

The easiest varieties to grow at home are:

Phalaenopsis (perhaps the most commonly seen in the shops), ...

Cymbidiums ...

... and Odontoglossums, 

all of which are available in a wide range of colours and patterns. Just follow the guidelines above and they should reward you with stunning blooms for weeks on end.

By Josh Ellison

Today we have a list of silver tinted cultivars to brighten your borders. 

A quick word on the colour silver - while you won’t achieve a mirror effect no matter how diligent your maintenance routine is, you can bring a bright, shiny feel to your garden with shimmering silver foliage. It’s interesting to note the time of year these colours can be most effective too. For example, the golden plants we discussed last week might be most effective in the summertime, when the sun lights them naturally and accentuates their colour with its own, while the silvers in this piece might to be said to have their most dramatic effect in spring or wintertime, when the lighting of a cloudy sky matches their tone.

Floral & Hardy’s Top Five Silver-leafed Plants:

Anaphalis triplinervis

Anaphalis are perennials and while their foliage itself is not strictly silver, the leaves are possessed of a layer of white hair filaments that give it a layered silver sheen. The transient nature of these hairs also affords the colour more depth than if it were merely the base colour on them. This colouring is further augmented by the flowers this cultivar will produce which bloom in small, white clusters. They are resilient to most environments, not having a preference in soil content or acidity and, due to their clump forming habit, they will stand up to a high level of exposure.

Astelia chathamica ‘Silver Spear’

This variety derives its name from the shape of its foliage, which is large, sword-like and dramatic. A clump-forming perennial, this evergreen is also extremely hardy and will continue to show this beautiful greenery, or should I say silverware, throughout the winter. With meticulous care you may also succeed in rearing these plants’ seldom-seen yellow flowers and orange berries. Your best chance of this is an acidic and sandy soil, or even a neutral, loam based environment with minimal exposure and added frost protection, when necessary.

Brachyglottis ‘Sunshine’

Brachyglottis is an evergreen shrub whose ovate, grey leaves have edges tinged in grey-white, giving an overall silver impression, and throughout summer it will bear vivid yellow, daisy-like flowers. It has a bushy habit and you can expect a spread of up to 1.5m. It is also an extremely adaptable cultivar - it will tolerate anything from clay to sand, acid or alkaline and practically any level of exposure to the elements.

Santolina chamaecyparissus

Santolina is a fine-leaved evergreen shrub with aromatic foliage, which in the summer season will bear a mass of yellow, button-like flowers. Its foliage is soft and woolly and finely divided. It also goes by the names ‘Ground Cypress’ and ‘Cotton Lavender’ and, while it will tolerate most soil types and ph. levels, it prefers to be well sunned and equally well sheltered.

Stachys byzantina ‘Big Ears’

‘Lamb’s Ears’, as Stachys are otherwise known, are herbaceous perennials that, similar to the Anaphalis, do not actually have silver foliage per se, but rather a thin film of ‘fur’ that, due to its colouration, applies a false hue to the leaves themselves. The leaves will appear in pairs, leading to the plant’s common name, and they will often produce two-lipped, purple-pink flowers in the summer. They prefer a light soil base - sand or chalk - to ensure they receive the drainage necessary to their survival, but they’re hardy and prefer a sunny position.

By Josh Ellison

In previous blogs we’ve talked about the environmental influence that our indigenous bee population has - from flower pollination and, subsequently, propagation, to their agricultural applications - indeed they are one of the most critically needed insects that exist on earth today. But rather than give another tirade about their declining numbers, or the things we’re doing wrong by them, we’ve compiled a list of plants most likely to attract the little fellows to your garden in the early spring when there’s not much food about, and a preface concerning why these cultivars, in particular, are so successful.

The key element of a flower that bees find alluring is its contrast, meaning its colours’ respective contrast with the background colours that surround them. This is why purple is a particularly popular hue among hymenoptera, as green is one of its most blatantly complementary counterparts, and also the most commonly naturally occurring colour in the bees’ endemic environment. Scent is also a no-brainer because, as a source of food, the bee judges the flower the way we might judge our luncheon - if it smells good then we’ll find its consumption appealing, whereas if it reeks nefarious, our good sense will tell us to avoid it. Bees also prefer simple, single flowers as it is easier for them to reach the nectar than it is in complicated, double blooms.

Below you’ll find five cultivars which fulfil one of these preferences (or all of them) in the earlier months of the flower season.

Floral & Hardy’s Top Five Early Plants for a Bees’ Bonanza:

Crocus

Although Crocus are available in practically any colour and tone imaginable, we’d most highly recommend the old-fashioned Crocus verna ‘Purpurea Grandiflora’ variety, as these are possessed of some of the most vibrant colourings of the species. While the petals will show a rich violet through mid-spring, the nectar rich core appears a vivid yellow, which shines like a beacon to our stripy friends. The primary requirement is good drainage, as the plant will not only tolerate gritty soil, it will thrive there, regardless of acidity or shelter.

Fritillaria meleagris

Also going by the handle ‘Snakeshead Fritillary’ due to the dappled colours on its petals, Fritillaria meleagris is a small bulbous perennial with deep maroon-purple, bell shaped flowers whose pink and plum colouring in spring is also somewhat reminiscent of a chess board. This plant is also extremely versatile as it is indiscriminate toward acidity and soil quality, sun or shade, and will thrive facing in any direction.

Helleborous orientalis

Helleborous is already renowned among the horticultural sisterhood for its beauty, but the sub species guttattus is positively breath-taking, with each stem producing a single multi-coloured bloom with wide open petals of white glittered in rose. It does, however, have quite specific requirements regarding growing conditions in order to thrive and these include a soil with good water retention, an alkaline ph level and a sheltered position where the sun does not fall too intensely. Also growers should beware - all parts of this plant can be highly toxic so one should avoid littering a space with them that is used by children.

Prunus cerasifera

We’ve chosen Prunus cerasifera partly due to its pretty pink blossoms, and partly due to its fruits, as, while we can surmise that a scented flower is more attractive to the bumble bee than one without, we can also assume that the sweet odour that the Nigra variety’s plums produce would be equally alluring. There is also the size of the Nigra to consider - being the only tree to make the list so far, it will be able to sustain a far larger population, not to mention withstand more adverse weather conditions. For best results the tree should be situated in a sunny position but there are no special requirements regarding soil type.

Pulmonaria officinalis

This is a semi-evergreen, rhizomatous perennial which blooms with clusters of small, funnel shaped, flowers which will appear either in late winter or early spring depending on your climate. The flowers open deep pink and later turn blue, with the attractive result of having both pink and blue flowers on the plant at the same time. The foliage is also highly attractive, with broad leaves dappled in greenish-white. They prefer a sheltered environment, but are able to survive in practically any acidity or soil structure.

Bees are an extremely beneficial addition to the garden and vital to its health - as the original horticulturalists they’ll propagate flowers far more efficiently then you or I could ever hope to. So, when stocking your borders, always bear them in mind, particularly by choosing plants that flower early (and late) in the year when there’s not so much food around for them.

By Josh Ellison

In the wake of recent disasters that have stricken Haiti with poverty and forced its people into the tall shadow of starvation, and since the devastation of 2010’s earthquake that laid waste to much of the country’s infrastructure, the charity organisation Haiti Survie has turned its efforts toward restoring the ecosystem of the country that has also recently been ravaged by deforestation.

Previously over half of the country’s surface area was dominated by trees and other biomass, but due to the increasing poverty across the country the population have been forced to harvest this biomass to near extinction in order to maintain their economy. The trees themselves are cut down and converted in charcoal for future sale on the energy market and, because of this repeated practice, the percentage of forest rich area has dropped from around 60% to barely 2% of its trees remaining.

In response, the environmentally based charity has begun a reforestation project, supporting the planting of over 100,000 new saplings. The end goal of the project is, by the end of the next generation, the country will have not only a more sustainable economic base, but also a locally produced source of food to save Haiti from dependence upon imports that, frankly, the country can’t afford en masse.  

To this end, the scheme has focused on planting fruit bearing trees and in engaging the interests of all facets of the community, who’ve divided the separate phases of the reconstruction among themselves. 

The BBC website hosts some marvellous photos of children and adults alike pitching in to help with the work.

One of the founders of Haiti Survie, Aldrin Calixte, had his motivation behind the project recorded as saying:

‘We want to give people an alternative income to combat poverty. When people have fruit trees they can produce fruit to combat hunger.’

This project replicates many similarly focused groups across the planet, who’ve undertaken mass reforestation and natural restoration projects, which, due to their abundance, led the UN to name last year ‘The International Year of the Forests’.

Perhaps the most successful example among reforestation projects is that set by South Korea who, following the 35 year Japanese occupation and at the end of hostilities in 1953, faced a near barren countryside. However, in the years between 1954 and 1984 the total cubic mass of timber for the country more than quintupled, from 30 million to over 160 million and between 1961 and 1995 the allotted area for forestry increased from 4 to 6 million hectares. It is now estimated that over two thirds of the country is blanketed in green and no microcosm is more indicative than the former demilitarised zone that now serves as a wildlife preserve.

With or without the motivation of a recent disaster, these types of projects are essential to our social infrastructure and indeed our survival. Aside from the obvious necessities of water and air purification, we must bear in mind the livelihoods that rely on our timber, not to mention the animals that call these forests home. Indeed over one and a half billion people have employment based in timber and yet we still destroy a grotesque 18,000,000 hectares of our forests annually - an area nearly 9 times the size of Haiti! This must stop – and soon!

By Josh Ellison

In recent news it has become a point of national pride that nearly half of Britain’s schools have not only actively encouraged their students to take an interest in horticulture, but that they’ve made a private space on their grounds a standard as much as the playground, or the assembly hall. This sociological brainchild began with, you guessed it, the RHS, who began their ‘Campaign for School Gardening’  as a means of familiarising children with their natural environment on a local, as well as a global scale. They’ve made the press recently by reaching the 15,000th school on the programme, which benefits from a persistent rewards system. Essentially, there are varying levels of accomplishment with every new garden, and the schools now race to be first to achieve each new level. 

The reward for this comes under the franchise of television horticultural personality Alan Titchmarsh, which grants the winners £200 worth of vouchers.

The RHS aims to continue to introduce new programmes to the primary school environment so that by September, which will mark this campaign’s fifth anniversary since its introduction, they’ll have reached their target of including half of the schools in Britain. These new initiatives include a ‘Young School Gardener of the Year’ award which will be brought on in April of this year.

The most recent addition to the RHS roster is Berryhill Primary school. They’ve pledged their support with the construction of a Peace Garden and an environmentally friendly greenhouse composed of recycled plastic bottles. However, headteacher, Mrs Carrie Nicol, is firmly set on continuing this project with a planned vegetable garden in the near future.

Mr Titchmarsh, echoing Mrs Nicol’s attitude, was quoted as saying:

'We know the impact gardening at school has on children’s development and wellbeing... the RHS won’t rest until all the schools in the UK are gardening!'

One of the main draws of the initiative is that it is free for any academic institution to register, and, once they have, a benchmark system will track the progress of the school as a whole, the students as individuals, and its co-operation with the local community - this last area being crucial to a school’s rise to higher echelons of the benchmarks.

Any layman can see the obvious benefits of an early exposure to the responsibilities and knowledge of regular gardening. Children learn to earn the success of a garden through devotion, hard work and consistency.

Of course, Floral & Hardy are no strangers to the concept of school gardening and , following our debut show garden at Hampton Court Flower Show, ‘Sustainability can be Sexy’, a Slough based school approached us concerning the possible utilisation of a disused green space on their grounds. It was the techniques used at Hampton Court that had attracted them, and we adopted and repeated some of those eco-friendly themes when embarking on this project.

The primary focus was that the space should represent a form of Outdoor Classroom and so we constructed an octagonal pergola as the frame of the room, whose walls were then represented by climbing vines. This, combined with textured and sparkling crushed glass floor, made the room a feast for all the senses.  

Outside of the ‘classroom’ we built raised beds in which the children were able to cultivate vegetables and herbs for use in the school kitchen, and even had enough to sell to parents too! Elsewhere in the space we provided a wildlife pond and bog garden to attract amphibians, bugs and birds, which has become a valuable focus for science lessons.

It is projects such as these that are fast becoming the new school of teaching techniques, as exemplified by the rising popularity of ‘forest schools’ and, with the increase in ecological conscience, an astute awareness of the environment, and our influence upon it, is becoming as relevant a part of the curriculum as Shakespeare or Newton.

By Josh Ellison

After with last week’s instalment on colour based foliage, this time we’re continuing with the gold tinted medallists of our gardens. That’s right - it’s time for the amber leaves of our locality to rear their gleaming heads.

Choisya ternata ‘Sundance’

Sharing its name with my second favourite bank robber, (it’s Dillinger for those wondering who number one is), the ‘Sundance’ variety of Choisya is an evergreen shrub with a rounded habit whose palmated leaves are bright golden in full sun and pale yellowy-green in shade. While this foliage springs eternal, its scented, white, star-shaped blooms will only appear in the early summer, sometimes with a second flush later on. As the name suggests, you will achieve the best aesthetic with this plant when grown in full sun, though you should also provide it with a well-drained, clay based soil.

Hosta ‘August Moon’

The ‘August Moon’ gets its name firstly from the bright yellow tint that sunlight will give its leaves - one can’t help be reminded of the harvest moon image its colour denotes. The second reason is the mound forming habit it undertakes. True to the harvest moon however, and as a deciduous perennial, it will only appear this way throughout late spring and summer, alongside its pale lavender flowers. The optimum conditions for this cultivar include a heavy soil content, ideally clay or dense loam of moderate acidity, positioned in a sheltered area of the garden with guaranteed drainage.

Philadelphus coronarius ‘Aureus’

These deciduous shrubs are a dramatic addition to the garden due to their enthusiastic tall, arching habit. With their sturdy branches, they are able to form significant size clumps of bright yellow, opposing leaves early in the year. As the year goes on, however, their foliage will gradually pale to shades of green and even cream. Philadelphus bear highly fragrant white flowers in late spring to early summer. They can survive in practically any soil type, regardless of acidity or content or shelter, the only absolute is that you plant them somewhere visible, or commit the crime of concealing a truly beautiful cultivar.

Sambucus racemosa ‘Plumosa Aurea’

The ‘Plumosa Aurea’ is a variety of Sambucus that can grow either as a moderately dimensioned shrub, or as a small tree, whose finely cut, golden leaves will turn a rich rust colour in autumn. In the preceding months, they’ll also bear red fruit and the scented flowers will appear cream in spring. Best of all, for such a beautiful plant, Sambucus is also extremely adaptable, suited to nearly any soil and aspect, though they are likely to thrive in moderately fertile soil that remains well drained. They will also tolerate intense pruning to maintain their dimensions.

Spiraea japonica ‘Goldmound’

‘Goldmound’, as the name would suggest, is a dense, deciduous shrub possessed of golden foliage starting early in spring. As the year progresses, so the foliage will deepen to shades of green in the summer and orange in the autumn. The plant will also bear clusters of pink flowers from spring to autumn, though these are not scented, and, while ‘Goldmound’ isn’t picky about soil structure, it is important that you provide it with full sunlight, both to benefit the health and the appearance of the plant.

Hopefully this list has provided ample selection for the gold-fingered among you and, if not, there are a myriad of other cultivars waiting to be discovered to give your garden the sunshine lift that golden foliage can provide.

By Josh Ellison

Grass - it’s one of the most common elements of any garden style, be it as a simple filler or part of a practical play space, or even an all-encompassing border to divide different plants types. The majority of gardeners will recognise its basic application - the lawn and, although this institution is fast being overrun by installation of paving, decking and gravel, it is still among the most frequent sights in the British garden.

However, as any horticulturalist will tell you, grass has many a greater application than simple green space, and today’s topic centres around those applications. Today we discuss ornamental grasses and many of these you’ll be familiar with - Bamboo, for example, is basically just a big grass!

But with regard to ornamental grasses, the importance of appropriate positioning cannot be overstated and so below you’ll find five cultivars for each position, based on the amount of sunlight they will require to grow.

Sunny spots

Festuca glauca ‘Elijah Blue’ - 

first of all we have the Festuca glauca, whose ‘Elijah Blue’ variety will form a hedgehog-like dome, punctuated by electric blue spires when provided with moist, but well-drained surroundings.

Imperata cylindrica ‘Red Baron’ - 

in complete contrast this cultivar, otherwise known as Cogan grass, will form dramatic, plum-red clumps in moist, clay based-soil.

Miscanthus sinensis‘Morning Light’ – 

this grass is reared more for its shape and size than colour - the deep green lances will grow independently in full sun and each will be a sight on their own to observe. Make sure though that their soil is well drained and whatever the location, that the grass isn’t north facing.

Pennisetum villosum - 

evergreen grass, otherwise known as the ‘Feathertop’ for its whitish-green, fluffy flowering heads in summer which turn purple with age. Plant it in moist, but well-drained soil.

Stipa gigantea - 

finally on the sunny front, we have Stipa gigantea which, as its name suggests is a tall, arching, clump forming semi-evergreen that will tolerate most soil types and locations within the garden. They are also surprisingly hardy given their shape and will tolerate an area of little or no shelter. In fact, depending on your location in the country, it may also be a regular staple in local fields and woodland areas.

Shade soakers:

Deschampsia cespitosa ‘Goldtau’ - 

this is an excellent shade dweller, with a slender arch-forming habit, red to brown flowers and green leaves through spring and summer, which will then turn a golden brown in autumn and winter. This evergreen cultivar prefers well-drained, acidic soils and, exposure be damned, it has been rated as H4 and so it hardly matters which direction the plant faces.

Luzula nivea - 

an evergreen, clump-forming perennial with an offering of white blooms in the summer – can survive in low fertility soil with good drainage.

Millium effusum ‘Aureum’ - 

this is a real beauty, with dramatic, strap shaped golden foliage with a hint of green. Though they are slow to spread, their impression in the garden is definitely worth the wait. Fortunately, they’ll tolerate pretty much any soil consistency, any level of exposure and can face in any direction.

Ophiopogon planiscarpus ‘Nigrescens’ – 

this black ‘grass’ is an excellent addition to the colour palette of a garden, as they are one of the darkest hues and are therefore perfect for offsetting brightly coloured blooms in your garden. In beds, or pots of three, they can also add a tone of formality to a garden. It prefers an acidic and well-drained soil, facing in any direction but north.

Uncina rubra - 

last but not least, consider this little beauty, which in pictures may be reminiscent of a pheasant’s plumage, often a rich blood red speckled with black and ginger. Fortunately they are evergreen too and so you’ll be able to enjoy this during the winter season, even if not the pheasants themselves. The only thing to remember about growing this plant is - you guessed it - a well-drained soil, as it will tolerate most other conditions.

I hope this list has been informative about the possibilities that you may have been missing when considering the role that grass can play in your garden.

By Josh Ellison

Since time immemorial flowers have been the subject of literature, paintings and poetry, not only for their beauty but more significantly the connotations that their individual appearances, uses and detriments evoke.

Consider how often Shakespeare would characterise flowers or even use them to overshadow the plots of his more tragic plays. Perhaps the most famous example of Shakespeare’s flowers come from the political tragedy Macbeth, concerning the cultivar ’Deadly Nightshade’, which was woven so tightly into the personas of the script that one would require an in depth knowledge of Greek mythology to fully appreciate it’s presence. In the infamous scene concluding with the death of King Duncan, Macbeth combines the Nightshade or ‘Atropa Belladonna’ into a draught to poison the monarch.  I mention Greek myths because, according to their lore, the Atropos were personified by the three fates who were the defacto seamstresses of the Tapestry of Destiny, and coincidentally these three fates appear as the Three Hags who guide Macbeths decision to kill the king - ironic no?

In Robert Frost’s poem ‘The Rose Family’, he uses the rose as a symbol simultaneously of excellence and mediocrity and compares the two through the reputation of the titular family, stating that:

‘The rose is a rose,

And was always a rose.

But the theory now goes

That the apple's a rose,

And the pear is, and so's

The plum, I suppose.’

By stating these obvious discrepancies, Frost highlights the inherent stupidity in one trying to measure their identity against another, and perhaps the rose’s exaltation might be a source of envy for other flowers - an obvious allegory for the human condition.

In ‘A Flower Give to My Daughter’,  James Joyce makes use of the white rose as a symbol of purity as he relates a small vignette about his gifting the flower to his child, whilst musing on the eventual mortality of her youth and virtue.

William Blake, a revered poet of the Romantic period, would often use nature to vocalise the themes of his work, most notably those of innocence and experience as personified by the lamb and the tiger respectively. With the poem, ‘Ah! Sunflower’, he seeks to encapsulate the theme of mortality with the vain hopes of the eponymous cultivar as it nears the end of it’s life – how, like people, it’s youthful exuberance has long since passed and now it merely watches the movement of the sun, awaiting it’s time to die and be reborn.

Throughout her poem, ‘A Bed of Wild Violets’,  Eliza Allen Starr highlights the themes of man versus nature by first outlining the tranquillity that can be found in a bed of violets, and how even the breeze caused by the nearby bustle of the metropolis can be converted to something relaxing by the presence of the flowers. The poem also serves as a eulogy to childhood, as she recalls the positive characteristics of which plants and nature are capable, and do not share with her human contemporaries - those of achievement without pride.

It is important that we reflect on the influence and the characteristics that flowers have encouraged throughout our cultural development, and perhaps take from their appearances some of the personality traits for which their authors so praised them.

By Josh Ellison

Well it was inevitable - we’ve run out of colour schemes for your gardens’ bloomers, so natural progression dictates we focus now on the foliage of a garden and how this can be tailored to suit your colour choices. As with the floral side of planting, the hue of foliage is affected by the changing seasons, particularly with deciduous plants, so it is important to consider the colour scheme of your garden year round, rather than just periodically, when choosing your plants.

Floral & Hardy’s Favourite Five Purple-leafed Plants:

Acer palmatum dissectum ‘Atropurpureum’

This Acer, also known by its common name, Japanese Maple, is a deciduous tree or shrub and as you have guessed from its etymology, the first we will cover in this new segment of the colour purple. The Japanese maple will produce deeply lobed, and finely dissected, red-purple foliage during the spring and summer, turning fiery orange-red in autumn. This one’s a slow burner, taking between ten and twenty years to reach full maturity, provided it is sited appropriately -this including well drained, acidic soils and preferably in a slightly shaded, sheltered spot.

Cimicifuga simplex ‘Brunette’

The ‘Brunette’ variety of Cimicifuga is a particularly beautiful flower, sprouting long, fragrant, bottle-brush-like inflorescences of white on purple stems late in summer. It has divided purple foliage and its berries will also show purple once the flowers have finished at the end of summer. This rhizomatous perennial prefers partial sun and fertile soils - as it is known to originate in many of the woodland territories of the northern hemisphere.

Heuchera ‘Palace Purple’

Heucheras are evergreen perennials with a clump-forming habit with round, lobed leaves and panicles of small pink or white, tubular flowers. The foliage of this variety will assume a bronzed, purple shade with a sheen similar to that of plum skin. The Heuchera does not favour a particularly acidic or alkaline soil - aim for a mixture of different content like sand and loam. This will also ensure good drainage and make sure that, whatever the soil, this cultivar is planted in full sun or partial shade, as this will ensure healthy growth.

Phormium cookianum ‘Black Adder‘

‘Black Adder’ is a clump forming, ever-purple shrub with a blackish-red tint to its bold, sword-like foliage, from which sprout arching, upright stems of red flowers in the late summer. Adder is also one of the least fussy growers on the list as it will tolerate practically any ph level, soil content or level of sunlight, and thus exposure. As always, just make sure the soil is well drained. However, with the foliage in mind, while it will tolerate the majority of environments, to ensure the plant thrives, it is best to situate it in full sun and to cover the stems in fleece during the winter months to avoid heavy frost damage.

Physocarpus opulifolius ‘Diabolo’

‘Diabolo’ is a deciduous shrub with dark purple, lobed leaves that will show prominently throughout the summer months before transitioning to faded brown in mid-autumn. It is also possessed of scented, pale pink flowers, however these are often scarce and will only thrive with particular care, which includes planting in an acidic or neutral, well-drained soil. Physocarpus is very hardy and therefore does not require full sun or shelter, only basic attention in winter to prevent frost damage.

So there begins another chapter in our pursuit of the perfect palette and as foliage, rather than flowers, is often possessed of greater longevity and abundance, it’s a wonder we didn’t cover its spectrum first! Well, I hope this list can begin to make amends for its own belatedness!

By Josh Ellison

Defining the border between privacy and security is a particularly precarious balancing act, especially when you are situated in the close quarters of urban living. In our previous article concerning hedges we named a few species which could provide adequate measures of both, without completely segregating you from neighbouring areas. However, there are other methods, aside from hedging, that you can utilise as both literal and illusory shelter, whether by soft, or hard landscaping.

Bamboo has become a popular alternative to the traditional hedge in recent years, due to its unparalleled growth rate, seemingly impervious hardiness and contemporary feel. The other advantage of bamboo is the fact that, as a screening device it can be tailored, through pruning, to the level of seclusion you wish to maintain.  It is important though to ensure you plant the correct species of bamboo as not all varieties are suitable for smaller gardens, or designed for effective boundary planting.  Phyllostachys ‘Aurea’ and ‘Nigra’, and Fargesia nitida are clump-forming and do not spread too quickly, so are good for this. Bamboo’s reputation for virulence may make you complacent enough to only plant one rhizome, however, for a full and lush spread you should plant about one metre apart along the length of the area you wish to screen.

Of course, the most common forms of screening are walls and regular timber fence panelling or trellis. Walls can be brick built, for the more traditional garden, or rendered and painted for a more contemporary feel. Gabion walls, or walls created by filling wire cages with pieces of stone, are becoming more popular too. Fence panels come in many different styles ranging from complicated bespoke designs, to the more economic featheredge or  waney-edged panel. Of course the panel can be topped with an additional level of decorative trellis to provide support to climbing plants, however, the panel itself is terrible for allowing light to enter the garden, and, like walls can be oppressive in their solidity. The excellent thing about these options though, is that several different types can be combined with the right eye for design, for example one might alleviate a dreary stone wall by adding ornamental ironwork,  which in turn can be decorated with climbing plants to reduce their institutional feel.

A less intrusive alternative to a new wall or fence panel, are shade sails, which have seen a steady increase in their popularity since their conception, and this is partially due to their cost effectiveness (as the material they utilise can in some cases be recycled from other uses), but also because of the ease of their installation and general attractiveness. It has become a common motif to combine a timber deck with a white or blue shade sail to lend the space a nautical atmosphere, and in winter you can simply unhook them and store them until the good weather returns.

There are also different types of glass and perspex screens that can be installed, instead of the various wooden and metal alternatives. Frosted glass is often employed in bathroom windows to afford an appropriate level of privacy whilst not darkening the room by removing the opening completely, and this psychology can be similarly applied to the garden. Shadows of planting through frosted glass can also have a very dramatic effect.

Another means of bordering that combines the schools of both natural and artificial, are structures like trellis dividers or pergolas which, similar to bamboo, can be tailored to admit or decline more sunlight, and thus greater exposure, just as you wish. The point of these structures and plants is to give the illusion of seclusion rather than outright segregation, and thus, sometimes, a fully realised structure is unnecessary. Studies have shown that part of our human instinct is to assume shelter, even though it may be absent because of our tertiary environment. Hollowed walls and ceilings are good ideas, and I saw excellent examples of these as demonstrated by two of the 2011 RHS Young Designer of the Year finalists, Alexandra Froggatt and Owen Morgan, who I was fortunate enough to catch at the RHS London Plant and Design show recently.

Froggatt and Morgan were exhibiting an extremely common, but fairly overlooked garden motif, that of the alleyway garden. The primary focus was how best to utilise the limited space of such a garden and perhaps give the illusion of more space than is actually present. Both employed a sort of unfinished sitting area with partial shelter, and the first was composed of a surrounding trellis painted crimson. The structure consisted of horizontal slats that, ironically, first resembled prison bars, however, the offset of complementary planting served to dampen any feeling of oppression one might have otherwise felt in the space. The second space was far more elementary in its design, in that its raised seating was sheltered completely, except by the near corner which consisted of an open plan stairway. However, this design seemed far less bold as it still relied on conventional structure and the ever illusory colour white to provide its merit of space, rather than its composition alongside appropriate planting.

In conclusion, when considering what method and materials to use in order to provide definition to your space and to provide some privacy and security, it is as well to look beyond the traditional and realise that there are many other alternatives out there that might provide a softer and less obvious screen.

By Josh Ellison

When it comes to the world of luxury, you can’t put a price on exclusivity, and horticulture is no different. Recently Thompson and Morgan made headlines and history in their successful bidding war for the world’s rare yellow variety of snowdrop, Galanthus woronowii  ‘Elizabeth Garrison’. The cultivar in question, which moved for a pricey £725, nearly doubled the previous record of £360 that had been held by the ‘Green Tear’ variety. The unique bulb drew more than 30 bidders in what proved to be a fast and furious auction, however, it seems that with snowdrops being one of T&M’s top sellers last year (over one million units sold), they could not let opportunity get away from them.

Bidding rivalries like these are not uncommon, and indeed like any scarce commodity, rare cultivars have a history of attracting lucrative clientele and are known for the mass popularity they can inspire once their exclusivity is asserted. The most famous example of this phenomenon was, what is now dubbed, ‘Tulip Mania’, which refers to a period of European, specifically Dutch, history during which the titular flower became the most sought after in the world.

Its continental introduction is most regularly accredited to an ambassador of the Holy Roman Empire (mediaeval Germany), named Ogier De Busbecq, who came across the cultivar in abundance when visiting the Ottoman Empire (modern day Turkey). At the time the Tulip was introduced in around 1554, there were no other flowers like it in Europe; due to the arid climate from which it was derived, it was possessed of petals saturated by intense colouring, making it unique among temperate species.

As the Netherlands had recently gained independence from the Spanish Empire, their domestic economy was in need of commercial property and the mass production of Tulip bulbs by the Flemish botanist Carolus Clusius provided this in spades.  At his post in the University of Leiden, he was able to cultivate varieties of the flower that would tolerate the colder climates of Europe and thus began the Golden Age of the Netherlands. Merchants working out of Amsterdam could expect profit margins of up to 400% from a single voyage to their Ottoman suppliers and, as this new aristocracy emerged, they asserted their fortunes with grand estates devoted primarily to the cultivation of different Tulips.

Even more lucrative than the monotone Tulips were those whose bulbs had become infected with ‘Tulip breaking virus’. This affliction meant that the Tulips would lose their ability to hold one solid colour and so would become streaked with combinations of red and pink, or white and red. However the average Tulip bulb takes 7-12 years to mature and so these varieties were few and far between, add to this the virus’ tendency to degrade the bulb before fruition, and these became among the most sought after flower varieties in history. Examples can be seen in many of still life paintings of the time, illustrating their popularity.

However as such a transitory investment, when the Tulip became more commonplace, many investors were ruined and the Dutch economy suffered as a result. It has been argued that the introduction of the Tulip to the continent marks the first economic bubble in recorded history, a landmark of public - rather than practical - value.

Though the Tulip will likely remain the single most significant populist example in horticulture, the lucrative nature of such exclusive commodities did not die with it. In 1998 the aforementioned Thompson and Morgan spent a staggering £50,000 procuring ‘Midnight Mystique’, a unique variety of Hyacinth famed for its black hue, though this sum is dwarfed in comparison by rumour to a variety of Tulip bought during the height of its popularity for six acres of tenure.

Time will only tell whether these records will be surpassed as the race continues unabated for the fabled blue Rose - while there are species that are recorded to fade to blue, there are no known varieties whose bloom holds the colour primarily. So – watch this space!

By Josh Ellison

One of the key concerns that modern gardeners face is how best to utilise one of the most important resources to their projects, that is to say water. There are myriad different methods that deal with this problem and each has its own benefits and drawbacks, ranging from basic efficiency, to financial weight, to how quickly and thoroughly it gets the job done.

Therefore, we’ve outlined the primary models of irrigation available to domestic horticulturalists, highlighting the positives and negatives of each, and which size, or type of garden each would perform most effectively in.

The most simple, and arguably most cost effective, watering system is that of the simple water butt and watering can. As the operation relies solely on recycled rainwater and hand drawn dispersal, there is no financial burden beyond the initial purchase of the equipment. Also, this system requires no maintenance, aside from the first installation, as it will collect any rainfall it is exposed to simply by being there. There are many alternatives to the utilitarian-looking green butt available now, ranging from terracotta urn look-alikes, to faux lead cisterns. Of course the drawback of this system is also a product of its great advantage - its reliance on rainfall and it will inevitably fail as a system during a drought. There is also the amount of space versus water yield to consider - if you have a very large garden, then it may take up to half a dozen of these butts to sustain it, even in a rainy season. Not to mention the huge cost in time and labour spent darting back and forth with a watering can, although this can be extremely water efficient as you can guide by hand where every drop of water ends up.

Sprinklers attached to hoses are among the most common systems of domestic irrigation as they have the advantage of being mobile, not to mention having an adjustable area of effectiveness. However, the very concept of such above ground irrigation means that the method will be wrought with inefficiency as the majority of the water it provides will reach only the leaves and very shallow roots of plants. This method is best utilised primarily for hydrating lawns as grass surface is too small to resist its penetration, or for maintaining moisture levels in unplanted areas of the garden.

The seep hose, or ‘leaky pipe’, has become a popular alternate innovation, particularly in formal gardens, due to the nature of planting styles that these afford. The basic principle of the seep hose is that porous tubes run either just under the soil close to the roots of several established plants, or on the surface under a mulch, and release water gradually and consistently. These perform best in simple schemes, or when the plants are in a row, for example as in low box hedging. Soil density is important as it will affect the spread of the water – hard compacted soil may keep it on the surface and much will be lost through evaporation, or will run away from the base of the plant only to later sink and be absorbed into empty soil instead of your cultivars’ roots. Well-cultivated soil around the plants will allow the water to go where you want it to. Seep hoses are also a fairly cheap method of irrigation, however they are also at their most effective if installed in new gardens which will then allow you to plant around the circuit of irrigation. If your garden is already established you should probably consider one of the above ground options as this would be more efficient and cost effective.

A more sophisticated and efficient way of reaching wider areas with water is to install an automated ‘spike’ system. The pipework still snakes around the garden as with the above method, but the water is delivered via small spray heads which can be set at 45, 90, 180 or 360 degrees to apply the water exactly where you want it. The heads are at low level so that the water is sprayed near to the base of the plants, rather than all over the leaves as in the sprinkler method. 

The system is attached to an outside tap on a timer so that it will come on automatically, preferably in the middle of the night, so that the moisture can be absorbed into the soil, rather than evaporated in daytime heat. ‘Drippers’ can also be connected to the system to irrigate pots and planters.

In closing, while the water butt will be faraway your most cost effective option, you must weigh it against the size of your garden and whether you’ll have the time and labour to rely on it solely – and also, of course, the likely rainfall. The sprinkler system, while fairly cheap and easy to control, has a very low order of efficiency in any other field than, well, lawn hydration. The seep hose is a valid option for large scale horticulture, however, it will require trial and error if it has not been a consideration during the planting stage and your garden is already established. The automated ‘spike’ system is probably the most expensive method of irrigation; however, the cost must be weighed against its superior efficiency, both in terms of water expended and time and effort involved.

Floral and Hardy are experts in this field, so if you are planning to re-design your garden and to include irrigation as part of the plan, do get in touch.

By Josh Ellison

We’re continuing this week with our regular editorial concerning the qualities of specific colour tones within the garden, how best to take advantage of them through your planting choices, and how properly to plant and then maintain the cultivars you select. This week’s colour is the elusive ‘black’, as whilst many appear black, most such flowers are really a deep shade of red or purple.

While this hue’s obvious connotations can be funereal and dark, it is important to remember that black is also symbolic of sophistication – it remains, for example, one of the most commonly employed tones in fashion and design, and not without good reason. As the formation of black derives from the compilation of every other colour, its absoluteness is a definite symbol of substance and thus it serves perfectly as a filler for spaces of the garden that may seem bland or empty. This substance also lends a connection to the idea of security and stability as the colour itself cannot be compromised. However, it is important to not overcrowd the garden with this colour as it can lend the space a fairly oppressive or morbid feel. Mix it with brighter tones for dramatic effect.

Floral and Hardy’s Favourite Five Black Beauties:

Aquilegia ‘William Guinness’

Informally known as Granny’s bonnet due to its frilly flowers, this herbaceous perennial has an upright habit and will produce pretty foliage and striking black and white flowers in spring – hence the variety’s name! When grown in groups, these blooms will provide a beautiful and dramatic contrast in your borders and fortunately Aquilegia is fairly easy to please as it will not suffer, regardless of the acidity or consistency of your soil. They are ideal for integration with other species as they will perform equally well in partial shade or full sunlight - just ensure the soil is moist. A word of warning though - they can be slightly toxic if eaten, so just make sure they are kept out of the way of inquisitive children.

Iris chrysographes ‘Black Knight’

This elegant Iris has strap-like, grey-green foliage and deep indigo, almost black flowers with gold-flecked, pendant fall petals, showing from May to June on an erect stem about 50cms tall. It can survive in almost any type of soil falling under sun or partial shade, and can survive either a sheltered or exposed position. However, again, this plant can be toxic, causing irritation if any part is ingested and its sap may cause irritation following contact with the skin.

Scabiosa atropurpureum ‘Chile Black’

Also referred to as the ‘Pincushion Flower’, the ‘Egyptian Rose’ and the ‘Mournful Widow’, the Chile Black is an erect, branching and short lived perennial whose pincushion handle derives from the appearance of its blooms which will show black/deep red throughout the summer with spatters of lavender in the latter months of the season.

The widow is comfortable in either chalk, loam or sand based soils and as such is not fussy about the ph levels it is subjected to, though non-acidic is preferable in an exposed spot where full sunlight is guaranteed.

Tulipa ‘Queen of the Night’

Tulip Queen of the Night has large, very dark maroon to almost black blooms which will appear in late spring. Due to its upright nature and heavy heads, it will be necessary to shelter the stems from excessive wind and wet to prevent its foundation being undermined. You can further aid its establishment by providing it with a fertile, alkaline soil and plenty of sunlight and by making sure the bulbs are planted at least 15cm deep to ensure a solid root structure.

Viola ‘Black Beauty’

This variety of pansy is grown for its translucent black flowers and the wide spread they provide upon reaching maturity. This perennial cultivar prefers well-drained soil, however, with a hardiness factor of four, it is very agreeable species in relation to ph level, sunlight requirements and its resistance to the elements. With its needs catered for you can expect it eventually to reach dimensions of 2.5 by 2.5m.

By Josh Ellison

Continuing the theme of the importance of sustainable gardens, here we will discuss what are known as ‘Green Roofs’, the different types available and why they’ve become such an integral part of modern horticultural planning.

As one can ascertain from the name, the basic premise of a Green Roof is to bring plant matter, and therefore greenery, to our otherwise barren rooftops and thereby take best advantage of the dead spaces in and around our gardens, in order to better support our fast degrading environment.

Due to the nature of photosynthesis, Green Roofs are characteristically easy to establish and maintain because, by their very design, they are in the optimum position for the reception of sunlight and rainwater. The concept is not new – ancient dwellings often used turf as a roofing material, but, in modern times, the Green Roof concept has once again been implemented in many commercial and architectural sectors, not to mention the broad following it has in the residential market. Rolls-Royce’s factory in West Sussex has one of the largest, commercial green roofs in Europe, covering over 32,000m2, and the green roofing project at the Ethelred Estate in London is another good example of the concept being taken more seriously.

The ecological ramifications of projects like these are self-explanatory, more green biomass equates to an increase in the conversion of CO2 to oxygen through photosynthesis, not to mention the purification of air borne moisture that comes into contact with the site. However, there are also great financial gains to made, which are probably best exemplified by the US Postal Distribution building in New York City which saves over $30,000 a year in heating and cooling. The project itself is designed to sustain itself for 50 years which suggests a total of $1,500,000!

However, we’re getting ahead of ourselves - very few of us have the space and resources to oversee a project of such scale but, lest we forget, this is effectively an act of charity toward mother nature, and all charity begins at home.

Before you embark on a Green Roof project, it is imperative you check whether you’ll require planning permission to do so, and what regulation you’ll have to abide by. However, it is unlikely that you’ll be bound by many restrictions, as the state encourages their ecological benefits, particularly the green corridor it will provide for local wildlife. Regulations aside, the Green Roof’s domestic application are copious, including a cheap and sustainable form of insulation and greater control over storm water runoff. Research by the Centre for Sustainable Development at the University of Cambridge has found that "a layer of vegetation can reduce heat loss from buildings, cutting the wind chill factor by 75% and heating demand by 25%”, and the variety of plants you can grow are many - providing colourful coverings for otherwise boring plain, or ugly roofs.

There are three categories of roof garden and they are; extensive, semi-extensive and intensive, which are defined primarily by the depth requirement of their soil, thus dictating which plants are suited to each.

Extensive Green Roofs

Extensive catergory green roofs are characterised by their primarily artificial soil combinations that normally integrate materials such as perlite, rockwall, sand and concrete and, as such, they are best designated to drought resistant plants that are in need of good drainage rather than regular moisture. The planting medium is ordinarily supplemented by a filter layer, drainage layer, root barrier membrane and insulation and waterproofing respectively. Readymade Sedum mats enriched with substrate are a good choice for this environment. The planting medium itself should be no fewer than 2 inches deep.

Semi-extensive Green Roofs

The semi-extensive project needs a slightly deeper growing field (4-8 inches) as it should be able to support small perennial plants, though not the beds, trees and shrubs of the intensive green roof. Good plants to try here would be Knautia macedonica, Centaurea scabiosa and Origanum vulgare. As with the extensive roof, you will require all the standard drainage and waterproofing faculties that underpin the soil structure. A semi-extensive roof can take anywhere between twelve and eighteen months to establish and will require regular maintenance, particularly if it is situated at an unorthodox angle or position in relation to the sun. Regular weeding, watering and feeding are all a must, and even then you might find some areas may fail.

Intensive Green Roofs

An intensive Green Roof is that type which is most reminiscent of orthodox gardening, as it is often structured around three dimensions, including raised beds and box crops, and with a much wider range of suitable plants. However, these can only be supported by a richly organic growing medium and plenty of depth to become established - usually around 12 inches. It is important when constructing these raised beds that you use lightweight materials to ensure that the roof itself can support them.  There are many other tricks that can be utilised to reduce the weight of the roof garden, such as the bulking out of compost with perlite, and using polystyrene rather than broken pots to crock the bottom of planters being used. However, as we know, the lighter the compost the less sturdy it acts as a plant anchor and pots and planters can easily fall over, but you can overcome this issue with clever placement of plant supports, such as wires and staking.

Floral and Hardy are experts in this field so, if you would like to turn your unused flat roof into a colourful alpine meadow, or an exotic Mediterranean-style vista, or you just want your own Hobbit house, just get in touch!

By Josh Ellison