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Toni Jux (225)

Friend or Foe?

Posted by Toni Jux on Tuesday 25th October

It is often disputed whether an insect population as a general concept is beneficial or detrimental to the gardener, however this cannot be decided with a simple black/white frame of mind. Like their micro equivalent bacteria, there are types and species of creepy crawlies that can be either devastating to or redemptive of any green space.

All the species mentioned here will be recognisable and that's chiefly why they've been selected. Their banality, particularly in the case of those detrimental species, is what often disguises them as a neutral force in the garden.

Friends:

1. Ladybirds

Probably the most immediately recognisable on our list is the Ladybird, whose name derives from the moniker given to Mary of Nazareth. Her personage was often depicted draped in a red spotted cloak, whose seven blemishes symbolised her corresponding joys and sorrows. These gorgeous insects act as the perfect counter-measure against one of the villains on our list, Aphids, who form a large part of the beetle’s diet. In the pupal stage alone it is not uncommon for a ladybird to consume upwards of four hundred of these plant lice and over five thousand in an average life cycle. However, there are certain procedures to attend to if you are to successfully attract this species to your garden. First of all your choice of pesticides can have an adverse effect on their propagation, so be careful what you use. Also, an artificial supplement known as ‘wheast’, a combination of whey and yeast can be applied to your space to nourish growing larvae. You can make your own version by mixing 1 part sugar to 1 part yeast in water to make a paste, which can then be painted onto stakes among your planting. Or you can make a looser mixture and simply spray it onto plants. Plants such as Achillea(Yarrow) and Daffodils will also provide enticing pollen.

 

2. Earthworms

Charles Darwin once of spoke of the Earthworm as being of the most significant organisms in the history of the world, describing it as nature's version of the soil plough, while immeasurably older and more efficient. Never will you find a greater aid to the quality of your soil than this fisherman's aid. The Earthworm operates on a symbiotic basis with its environment i.e. the greater the quality of the soil and the better tended it is, the greater the population of worms, and in turn the greater the quality will remain. Thus it is important to serve these creatures appetites as a means of satisfying your gardens. First of all we must understand how the Earthworm survives. Its respiration is conducted entirely through its skin, rather than through lungs like us humans and to thrive they need, similarly to us, moisture and oxygen, therefore a well-drained, moist soil which is turned regularly will guarantee a healthy population. Also, while composting and mulching may seem obvious tricks for the benefit the of the plants themselves, the tunnels an Earthworm creates will provide greater pockets of oxygen and thus a more efficient means by which bacteria can break down this organic material.

 

3. Butterflies

Butterflies are an excellent vector of pollination, similar to their striped friends, the bees. In a previous article we outlined how important it was to aid the continued growth of our native butterfly species due to the adverse conditions they'd been faced with in the past summer. However it is not only flower propagation that makes this insect important - over one third of the world's food supply is pollinated by natural vectors. Also the butterfly provides a source of food for numerous bird species that, along with the aesthetic of the insect itself, add exciting colour and movement to your green space.

 

4. Bees

Einstein is quoted as saying that “If the bee disappears from the surface of the earth, man would have no more than four years to live.” And this is due to their critical role as the primary pollinator on our planet. From the largest crops to the smallest bloom, no other insect can lay claim to such widespread or efficient propagation. As such, there is no doubt that a population already resides in your garden, however there are measures that can be taken to ensure, in their state of decline, that this presence continues. Aside from a healthy supply of pollen rich plants, bees require a local water source to multiply, preferable one placed away from sources of intrusive noise like lawnmowers. A small pond or fountain amid the more remote areas of your garden would suit this role perfectly.

 

5. Spiders

For a long time this creepy crawly has been on the receiving end of much stigma due to its presentation on the silver screens of yester-year. However, it is the very aspect that sealed this creature as a menace, that also confirms it as one of the greatest assistants a gardener could employ. The same predatory instinct that saw so many grind-house heroes laid low, can be put to work on the winged afflictions of your leaves and petals, consuming, as it does, many of our garden pests. Unfortunately, arachnids are primarily attracted to dry, tranquil places and so an English garden cannot hope to yield a huge amount! Hopefully their mention here will help dispel the myths of fear and aversion that surround them, and pay the dues that spiders really deserve.

Foes:

6. Slugs

One of the most common pests in any English garden, these slimy critters are known for the destruction they cause to any foliage they can reach. However, aside from expensive artificial aids, there are other methods of repulsing them. The most important thing you can do is use nature against itself i.e. in the approaching winter months it’s important to rake over your top soil, thus exposing larvae and egg clusters to the threat of frost. Keeping the garden clear of fallen leaves and plant matter also reduces places for slugs to hide. 

Slugs also have many natural predators, foremost of which is the Hedgehog. Shy creatures by nature, the best way to attract them initially is a healthy portion of dog food but to make them stick around you'll have to invest in a habitat that suits them. To this end we recommend a waterproof box, insulated with hay and camouflaged by leaves which if successful will provide you not only an effective solution to your arthropods but a cute addition to the family. If hedgehogs are out of the question then another effective predator is the group known as Rove Beetles, which includes the most commonly known ‘Devil’s Coach Horse Beetle’. They can be catered for with a series of perspex lined, pebble filled trenches into which the slugs will become trapped for the beetles lunch. A hedgehog house should be constructed to dimensions of eighteen inches length, twelve depth and six width while beetle trenches should be about half those measurements.

 

7. Aphids

Aphids aka Greenfly or Blackfly, are a species of parasitic insect that are notorious for the destruction of foliage and flower alike. They have been mentioned already as one of the Ladybirds primary food sources, however there are a number of other species that will incorporate this pest into their diet if properly encouraged. 

 

The most foolproof way to ensure these predators presence is through the liberal planting of nettles, which, when sited next to those flowers worst afflicted, will attract a local population of nettle Aphids. As their name suggests, they will only attack the nettle itself while attracting plenty of less discriminate insects to regulate theirs and their counterparts’ population. We would highly recommend this method over the use of pesticides or water-borne protection as one annoying habit of an Aphid afflicted leaf is to curl inward, thus protecting the insect from outward dusting of insecticides.

 

8. Grasshopper

The trick with Grasshopper control is in early intervention - by catching the infestation early you halt the population growth before it become unmanageable. 

 

 

They are a particular nuisance to vegetable crops, mostly targeting baby carrots, onions and lettuce. One method involves something of a pyrrhic victory by way of providing a strip of lush grass to divert the hopper from the rest of the garden, this will also localise the entire population making them an easy target for predatory birds and insects. However as stated earlier, it is important to undertake these counter-measures as soon as possible because, once the hopper has a foothold, then no method will be effective except to wait for the cold season that wipes them out annually.

 

9. Caterpillars

A Caterpillar infestation is a result of butterflies laying eggs on the leaves of the afflicted plant. A non-chemical means of prevention is to use a horticultural fleece to cover the plants and halt butterflies' access to them. Unfortunately, they have a long laying season that can last from early spring to autumn and the indiscriminate fleeces will also prevent other beneficiary species from reaching the plant.

 Another method is to move the afflicted plant to an enclosed site such as a greenhouse and then to flood the space with Trichogramma brassicae, a species of wasp that targets caterpillar eggs. If that is not possible, you can just use the old-fashioned method of picking them off the plants manually!

 

 

10. Viburnum Beetle

This little monster has recently topped the RHS most wanted list in terms of garden pests, partly due to its destructive capacity, but mostly due to its lack of treatment protocol. The majority of the defoliation this creature causes is during the larvae stage wherein the hatchlings are far too numerous to effectively clear by hand, thus chemical methods are the only viable ones. 

Once inspecting infected Viburnum for signs of the larvae, spray the plant with deltamethrin or cyhalothrin. This treatment is best utilised in the mid spring months when the larvae do the majority of their damage. There are organic options, however these have proved virtually ineffective against matured beetles.

 

 

And so as our roster of friends and foes draws to a close, remember the tips given here on avoiding the latter and do your best next year to attract the former. The one comfort of the oncoming cold weather is that caterpillars and slugs are far more susceptible to it than we are!

By Josh Ellison

 

A Climber for Every Corner

Posted by Toni Jux on Tuesday 11th October

A while ago we released an article on the increasing encroachment of urbanisation on personal green spaces, stating some means by which a lack of space can become an opportunity, rather than a hinderance to creativity.

This week we want to follow that up with a selection of wall based planting schemes so that, although our spaces might be small, we can make the most of all the surfaces, not least the verticals.

Hence, for your consideration you'll find below a selection of just a few of our favourite climbing plants, selected based on their hardiness and listed according to the position they thrive in.

 

Shady Places:

1. Hydrangea petiolaris

This deciduous climber is native to the rural areas of Japan and the Korean peninsula and it is ideally suited for the north western quadrant of the garden, as it thrives in morning sun and afternoon shade. In the summertime it will reward diligence with fertile and numerous white, lace-cap blooms that turn coppery and stay on the plant well into winter. You can expect it to reach heights of 15 metres, however it is recommended that you aid its growth with garden ties, as this species suffers from quite weak rootlets. For this reason trellis may be needed if the wall itself is barren of holds for the plant to attach. 

2. Pyracantha – 

‘The Firethorn’, as it is commonly known, is actually a vertical shrub and has long been employed as means of bordering a garden due to it's dense foliage and defensive thorns, however as a vertical addition it also provides an array of colour and interest to a garden. For example, once their white blooms have shed they will bear orange, red and yellow berries both admired as an autumn decoration and loved by the birds. 

3. Clematis montana - 

Here is a species most will be familiar with, the beautiful Clematis flower is all but an institution among Britain's green-fingered, though a fragile one as the stems can be quite brittle, so care is needed when training it in. This climber will flower profusely with pink or white flowers in spring and again later in the year, albeit more sparsely. In the lull period it will provide attractive emerald, and sometimes purple tinted, foliage. 

 

Sunny Spots:

1. Roses - 

Perhaps the most famous of flowering plants, this perennial climber will thrive in full sun and will reward the gardener with large, colourful and often very fragrant flowers. It is important in very sunny conditions to ensure the plant is well watered and the soil rich, artificially enhanced if necessary with the aid of compost or well-rotted manure. Providing the right conditions will keep the plant healthy and reduce the risk of disease.

2. Campsis – 

‘The Trumpet Vine’ comes in two varieties, the south east American radicans and the Chinese grandiflora, either will thrive in a British garden when afforded enough sunlight. Their most attractive feature is the brightly coloured, orange or yellow flowers for whose shape they are named, they are also extremely sought after by bird species and will aid the wildlife population of your space.

3. Trachelospermum jasminoides – 

The ‘Evergreen Jasmine’ makes a good alternative to regular Jasmine, which can look a bit untidy in the winter months. This one has shiny dark green foliage and the same, highly scented, starry, white flowers all summer long.

 

Exposed Positions:

1. Wisteria - 

A member of the pea family, this hardy climber will attach to any support you can provide and is popular in rooftop gardening for it's durability. It will bear fragrant, lilac, purple or white flowers that form with an appearance much like hanging grapes and, once established, will continue to do so for many years. Best in a west-facing position.

2. Parthenocissus – 

‘Virginia Creeper’ - Similarly to the Trumpet Lily, this genus is very popular among birds and will attract them to any garden that houses it. It is grown mainly for it’s spectacular rich autumn colours and, due to it's prevalent nature, it will quickly cover unsightly fences and other artificial structures you may wish to conceal. However, just watch it doesn’t get into your gutters and under roof tiles!

3. Hedera – Ivy – 

For hardiness and an ability to deal with almost all situations, you can’t really beat good old ivy. Available in a variety of leaf sizes and colours, including some very attractive variegated types, like the Virginia Creeper, it will quickly cover any unattractive boundaries or buildings. However, also like the Virginia Creeper, it climbs by clinging on with tiny suckers, so can cause damage to walls and roofs if not kept in check.

There you have it - hopefully those whose gardens have been confined by the rapid urbanisation of recent years will find something here to help maintain the illusion, if not necessarily the reality of a much larger space.  

By Josh Ellison

 

Quarter Century Drought

Posted by Toni Jux on Monday 3rd October

You would think that following such a miserable bout of summer, what with all the rain we've been having, that drought would be the least of our problems - and then we have a week like last week! 

However, news has been circulating that certain areas of Britain, particularly Lincolnshire and East Anglia, are suffering from low ground water levels. Despite the buckets that fell during June and July, dozens of farmers are still unable to draw from their local water sources because the majority of that bad weather was soaked up by late sprouting flora that suffered so much detriment in early spring - an especially chilly one for our spot in the hemisphere.

As such, we felt it prudent to prepare you for future deficits with a list of drought tolerant plants and artificial countermeasures you can take to prevent your garden from suffering a similar fate.

Floral and Hardy’s Top Five Drought Tolerant Plants

1. Abelia grandiflora – a large, easy-to-look-after, semi-evergreen shrub - properly tended it can reach heights of 1.8 metres and will bear glossy, deep green leaves and masses of fragrant, pale pink-flushed white bell flowers all summer long.

 

2. Fatsia japonica keeps appearing in this editorial, not wholly because of its aesthetic appeal, it is also one of the most durable evergreen species you can cultivate here in England. It is possessed of eight-lobed leaf formations and large, creamy-white, candlebra-like blooms between autumn and winter, followed by plum coloured berries in late winter.

3. Common Lavender actually flourishes in dry environments and so is ideally suited to this short list. With its scented purple, pink or white flowers and evergreen foliage, it’s an essential in any cottage garden scheme. Definitely avoid the use of this in humid environments, as this species is prone to root rot in the damp, most fertilisers should be avoided also. In fact the only maintenance really required is good air circulation, a sand based soil and a light trim over after flowering to keep its shape.

4. Euphorbia is a striking perennial species with a shrubby form, evergreen glaucous foliage and conspicuous sulphur yellow bracts in spring. Special care should be taken though when working around the plant to avoid their poisonous and caustic sap.

 

5. Echinops, otherwise known as Globe Thistle, due to its spherical purple-blue flower heads and thistle-like foliage, is a species native to Africa's tropical regions and parts of central Asia particularly the Indian subcontinent. As such, their species has had the time and experience to negotiate extreme weather conditions such as drought and would therefore make a colourful and appropriate addition to your drought-proof garden.

 

Other ways of dealing with drought conditions:

Irrigation systems

• First of all we have the most common irrigation system which is known as localised irrigation, this refers to a matrix of piping that then employs sprinkler heads to control aerial dispersal of the water over the garden. The advantages of this include its easy use, self management and the option of having self-timed systems. Of course this system is also fairly inefficient due to the evaporating effect that the dispersed water will undergo, particularly difficult in time of low water supplies. Even in regular conditions the disadvantage becomes a cost on your own water bill.

• Next we have drip or trickle irrigation, while a slower means of water delivery, it is far more efficient. Not to mention when combined with horticultural membrane and a mulch of some kind mulch it is an excellent means of minimizing that which is lost to evaporation, your system could also be fitted to deliver fertilizer to the garden.

 

Water butts

Water butts are another effective method of maintaining healthy moisture levels and will not cost you nearly as much as an irrigation system. It will collect the surplus rain water from your gutters and store it indefinitely, to provide an emergency source of fluid in times of hardship. Unfortunately, although the standard types will win no beauty prizes for your garden, they can easily be concealed behind a tall shrub and under our current circumstances much surely be worth the minor aesthetic cost. Fortunately, if the aesthetic of your garden does not allow for such plastic monstrosities then you'll be able to find a host of different decorative designs available, from large ‘terracotta’ urns to traditional oak barrels, whichever suits your tastes.

Membranes

The selection of the right membrane will be critical to your moisture conservation, not to mention the overall health and aesthetic quality of your garden. You may be surprised how many jobs an effective membrane and mulch can perform for you.

• It is recommended that if planning to use a plastic layer that you avoid transparent materials, the reason for this is that unlike their black or green counterparts their transparency allows sunlight to penetrate and therefore encourages weed growth - effectively shooting itself in the foot! It is essential, however, that this material be appropriately punctured to suit the level of moisture in your soil. It may not allow water to escape through evaporation however, the flip side of that coin is that it will hinder the drainage of waterlogged soil. Also, if exposed to sunlight this material will break down quickly and thus it is advisable to use a hybrid mulch, with a base layer of black plastic protected by a secondary layer of bark or soil thus reducing heat absorption and subsequent decay.

• If however you're veering towards using a cloth based alternative, or horticultural membrane, then you should consider the following, while this material will provide better water dispersal and ventilation it will also be vulnerable to evaporation. Also, its protection against weed extends only as far as its fastenings, without proper attachment to the ground this material will fast be outmatched by perennial weeds, so always overlap and peg down.

Mulches

The two basic types are organic and artificial each with its own pros and cons. To start, let us discuss the most moisture retaining organic materials:

• Ornamental bark – by far the most natural looking mulch, easily obtainable from your garden centre.

 

 

• Wood chip, while not especially porous, provide excellent weed control and is an extremely attractive base layer, however as they decompose they will sap nitrogen from the soil which will need to be supplemented with outside fertilizer.

• Pine needles are effective as porous material and thus will welcome initial rainfall and allow it to penetrate the ground easily, but they can make soil quite acidic – fine if you want to grow acid loving plants such as Rhododendrons and Azaleas!

• Pecan shells are something of a speciality as they tend to be restricted to areas of pecan production, however if available they should definitely be considered as they provide a lovely dark brown mulch and excellent water retention over a long time period.

Artificial mulches:

• Slate chippings - unlike other stone mulches, they're acidity levels are inert and thus they will not manipulate the pH level of the local soil

 

 

• Gravels or stone – available in a wide range of colours and sizes, however tend to grow very hot during the summer months, those most prone to drought, and therefore can exacerbate evaporation.

• Tumbled crushed glass - like slate chippings is also a recycled material and comes in many vibrant colours.

 

So if your garden seems to be getting drier by the year, don’t fret, follow some of the advice above and England’s green and pleasant land can easily be preserved.

By Josh Ellison

 

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